On the western coast, a spectacular route known as Riviera dei Limoni is dotted with a succession of pretty villages, lemon groves, and vineyards. High on a hilltop, Lefay Resort & SPA Lago di Garda lords over the lake, olive groves, and forest on 27 acres of natural parkland. Each turn on the meandering 12-mile road that delivers you from Gargnano to the resort is a sign that this is a destination apart from the rest. Every eco-friendly guestroom is a spacious suite with a garden terrace, and the comprehensive spa and wellness facility includes seven types of saunas and a salt lake. Perhaps the best way to spend a day in Lake Garda is onboard the resort’s customized 1017 Frauscher Lido speedboat exploring all of the lake’s hidden corners.

Part of Italy’s appeal lies in how even the most glamorous, worldly destination is infused with its own distinctly local character and history. Lake Garda is full of wonders, from the 10th-century fortress of Desenzano del Garda, a magical backdrop for summertime concerts, to the ordinarily sleepy port of Bogliaco, which comes to life every September when immaculate crowds gather to cheer on the prestigious Centomiglia Sailing Regatta, Italy’s most important yacht race.

A great appeal of a short getaway is the brief change of scenery, and leisurely long weekends offer the opportunity to immerse yourself in a favorite destination or a new one, exploring the history and culture, and of course, the cozy pubs and cafés, overstocked bookstores, restaurants, and assorted delights . . . all on your own time.

Image credit: Aurora Anguilla Resort & Golf Club. Aurora Anguilla Resort & Golf Club’s stunning beachfront location

Image credit: Caroline Klein

ITALIAN ALLURE

From Day To Night

In Capri, from your vantage point of a chaise or hammock by the pool and gardens at Villa Marina Capri Hotel and Spa, watch the harbor where jet-setters spend sunny days on their yachts moored near the marinas, disembarking only to dine or spend the evening in a buzzy nightclub or bar. You’ll likely have a rich-and-famous encounter at the resort’s Ziqù Restaurant & Terrace, which is growing in popularity due to the chef’s delicate modern interpretation of timeless Mediterranean culinary traditions.

Boats moored on the glistening water of the Harbor of Limone, on the western bank of Lake Garda. Image credit: Shutterstock

Image credit: Shutterstock. Colorful textiles for sale at a Jaipur market

Image credit: Shutterstock. Beautiful buildings on Lake Pichola, a large, fresh water man-made lake in Udaipur

The Delights of Delhi

Temperatures in the south and out west, in eternally sunny California, make a good thing even better for a fall getaway, and when the New England “Leaf Peepers” reports start coming in, charming small towns, in brilliant reds, yellows, and golds, are ready and waiting to greet you.

Image credit: Shutterstock. Assorted sides with dahl makhani

Land of Prosperity

FROM DAY TO NIGHT

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By John O’Ceallaigh and Abby O’Neil

Not-So-Hidden Gems

Destination

With independent boutiques, hip hangouts for cocktails, and dreamy waterside cafés, Glockenbachviertel is one of Munich’s prettiest districts

Image credit: Shutterstock. Castillo San Felipe del Morro was designed to guard the entrance to San Juan Bay

BY Kate Mann

Munich

In the Neighborhood

Image credit: Caroline Klein. Andara Resort & Villas in Phuket

Volume 22 2023

Bright lights glow in the evening at Marina Grande on the island of Capri. Image credit: Shutterstock

In town, take a counter seat at the Farmgate Café, where virtually every ingredient is sourced from the English Market below. Gaze down on the traders’ stalls — rainbow towers of vegetables, golden cheese counters, and intoxicatingly scented bakeries piled high with buttery soda bread — as you tuck into a hearty lamb stew served with crisp, savory roasted potatoes.

Down the coast in postcard-perfect County Kerry, The Europe Hotel & Resort sits majestically on the shores of Lough Léin, Killarney’s largest lake. The concierge team can arrange activities from hiking through Killarney National Park to rock climbing, kayaking, and fishing for wild salmon from the hotel’s private pier. In Killarney town, there is an emphasis on unique locally handmade goods on the high streets, where jaunty carts rattle over the cobblestones. Hire one of these horsedrawn traps for a tour — drivers share their encyclopedic knowledge of the county with a typical Irish sense of humor. When the weather turns, head inside and learn traditional set dancing with the locals in Kit Flaherty’s Pub or enjoy a few pints from the Killarney Brewing Company at John M. Reidy’s or The Grand. Cork retains a distinct sense of intimacy despite being Ireland’s second-largest city. Experience 18th-century manor life, much as Strongbow, Sir Walter Raleigh, and the Knights Templar did before you, at Castlemartyr Resort — albeit with the welcome addition of innovative dining, an 18-hole championship golf course, and over-the-top marble baths with walk-in rainfall showers and soaking tubs.

It doesn’t matter if you begin in Dublin or Shannon, few journeys are more delightful than following the winding roads through the charming towns and villages that line Ireland’s seaboard. The grand Dromoland Castle is well-placed in County Clare, making it easy to explore area attractions such as the Cliffs of Moher and The Burren, and when the leaves turn golden, castle-appropriate activities including bracing walks through the forest, pony and trap rides, clay shooting, fishing, horseback riding, or a round of golf will entice you to stay put.

Ross Castle in Killarney National Park. Image credit: Shutterstock

ENCHANTING IRELAND

Vermont’s Woodstock (not to be confused with its New York counterpart of festival fame) is often described as the prettiest small town in America, and in the fall it’s a postcard come to life. Its entrancing New England colonial character is enhanced by the local artists, craftspeople, and farmers. A collection of country stores, boutiques, and art galleries line the village’s main street. Don’t miss homewares at ShackletonThomas — its pottery is made by hand using traditional techniques — and Yankee Bookshop, Vermont’s longest-running independent bookstore, where the staff will greet you with a smile and after recommending an armload of books, ship them home to you. Woodstock loves celebrating Halloween. On streets closed for the annual parade, costumed residents (and sometimes their pets or farm animals) walk door to door, greeted by ghosts, goblins, and witches at houses covered in cobwebs and glowing lights. The Woodstock Inn & Resort is a must-stop for area children — it has been handing out full-size candy bars for decades.

Once the manor house of the Rockefellers, each guestroom at this classically elegant inn exudes comfort and offers an authentic sense of Vermont’s history. Innovative chefs at Richardson’s Tavern work closely with the master gardener to pick ingredients for creative entrées and innovative cocktails. Insider’s tip: Save room for dessert. It will be impossible to choose between the signature Vermont maple cake and the Woodstock cookie plate, so don’t even try.

Decking out homes for Halloween in Savannah. Image credit: Shutterstock

Colorful fall foliage near Woodstock, Vermont. Image credit: Shutterstock

AMERICAN ESCAPES

After shopping, relax amid the greenery at Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden where every stylish suite in this former 17th-century mansion faces the hotel’s secret garden or the quiet lane. A roof terrace with panoramic views over Palma’s Old Quarter includes a logic-defying suspended glass plunge pool that diffuses light through the hotel’s main stairwell directly below.

This time of year, when Mallorca’s Serra de Tramuntana mountains turn a gentle shade of red and the sun is still high in the sky, but without the energy-sapping heat, is perfect for bike rides or gentle hikes in the mountains. The sea is still warm enough for one last dip, and most notably, without the throng of summer visitors, a different, a more local Mallorca emerges in the cafés, restaurants, and shops on the cobbled streets of its storybook towns. Palma’s oldest and most adored café, the original Ca’n Joan de s’Aigo, has been sharing tempting homemade goodness on Calle de Can Sanc for three centuries. You’ll find relaxed families sitting together, laughing over creamy hot chocolates and apricot gelato. Nearby, you can still ring a bell at Santa Clara Convent to buy the sisters’ freshly made biscuits (the nuns, who remain out of sight throughout the purchasing process, have been baking treats here for centuries). The chic galleries and boutiques on Passeig des Born are definitely worth a stroll, but don’t overlook smaller shops like Bazaar Palma just one street back — it’s filled with small vases, fine linens, and tableware — and Mimbrería Vidal, which has every kind of basket, straw hat, and bag you could imagine.

The picturesque village of Valldemossa is easily reached by taxi from Palma. Image credit: Shutterstock

The Magic of Mallorca

A stroll below the bright tangles of bougainvillea that crown the whitewashed lanes will lead you to the cafés of Capri City’s central Piazzetta. This is the prime position to observe the daily passeggiata when locals promenade through the town in all their finery. Elegance seems to be innate here, so if their style inspires, visit the town’s independent artisan workshops to commission custom handmade sandals and jewelry, or pick up locally made scents at Carthusia perfumery, where original blends are said to be created by the monks of a nearby charterhouse.

The lively Piazza Umberto with the church of Santo Stefano, in Capri. Image credit: Shutterstock

Santa Catalina Market, in the city’s gourmet district, is known for fresh fish, local meat, handmade cheese, and an abundance of organic produce. It takes on a whole new luster in the fall when delicate summer fruits give way to heartier produce — plump pomegranates, colorful squash, earthy wild mushrooms, and of course, grapes. This is prime time for vineyards, too, and there are dozens scattered around the island worth a visit. The private vineyard at Grand Hotel Son Net, an exquisite boutique hotel high above Puigpunyent village, produces fine Mallorcan wines that are served in the bar and a gourmet restaurant that was once the estate’s original olive oil press. Exceptional art, including works by Marc Chagall and David Hockney, grace the walls of this beautifully restored 17th-century estate.

View of the artificial water Cúber reservoir in the Tramuntana mountains. Image credit: Shutterstock

Enjoy a more modern approach to Irish cuisine at Orchids Restaurant at Hayfield Manor where Executive Head Chef Mark Staples presents creative dishes with an upmarket slant. Menus change with the seasonal ingredients; choices might include seared monkfish marinated in black pearl curry with white onion risotto, beef fillet with beef cheek, and chargrilled aubergine with beetroot, puy lentils, and Toonsbridge mozzarella. Cork City’s Oliver Plunkett Street is a lively thoroughfare with shops, cafés, restaurants, and historic buildings. There’s more local character to admire at the Crawford Art Gallery, with its many portraits of idolized Irish writers such as Samuel Beckett and W. B. Yeats. On sunny days, make for Fitzgerald Park and Cork Public Museum, and you’ll likely see families picnicking on the sloping banks of the Lee.

Cork’s English Market. Image credit: Shutterstock

PICTURESQUE VERMONT

In pedestrian-friendly Savannah, Georgia, grand homes adorned with pumpkins and mums on cobbled streets lit by gas streetlamps create a cozy fall feel — and the weather is absolutely perfect for walking tours and horse-drawn carriage rides. Studded across the Historic Landmark District, with its grand 18th-century homes and scores of restaurants, are 22 park squares where dog walkers amble under the shade of grand old oaks. Once the historic American Trust and Bank, the large, stately gray bricks of the original 19th-century façade of The Drayton Hotel belies what’s inside — a tsunami of modern design and color. Striking turquoise tiling, modern sofas and chairs upholstered in bright blue and pink, and light wood paneling adorn the lobby, and lime-green wicker chairs and striped sofas provide a retro punch to the rooftop terrace bar.

THE HISTORIC SOUTH

Forsyth Park includes an impressive inclusivity-inspired garden created especially for the blind, with sculptures and installations designed to be touched and intensely aromatic shrubs flowers. On the north side of the park, Bellwether House delivers gracious hospitality and a unique culinary experience in a pair of adjoining Italianate townhomes built in 1876. With the longest contiguous front porch in the city, there is ample space to gather with friends and family or find a quiet corner to watch the city stroll by at its most leisurely pace. Nearby, Collins Quarter at Forsyth is a must-stop for a weekend brunch, or join the line at Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room, where platters of fried chicken and cornbread dressing, sweet potato soufflé, black-eyed peas, gumbo, corn muffins, and biscuits are served family-style at tables for 10. Everywhere you look in Charleston, South Carolina, there is a gorgeous mansion, green park, or cobblestone street to explore. The city’s deep roots are rich with history, and southern gentility is juxtaposed with contemporary art and snappy street fashion. The city is rife with historic tours; the Preservation Society of Charleston gives tours inside and out of some of Charleston’s exceptional homes and gardens rarely open to the public, and Old Charleston Walking Tours, led by the city’s most experienced ghost tour guides, takes you along the city’s shadowy streets and alleys.

Hotel Bennett, Charleston holds an enviable position on King Street, across from Marion Square, home of the city’s favorite farmer’s market and host of events such as the Charleston Wine + Food Festival, the Piccolo Spoleto Festival, and the MOJA Arts Festival. The view from the hotel’s rooftop bar and pool, across the park to the river, is unspeakably beautiful. Settle in with a craft cocktail at sunset and gaze over the skyline — framed not by skyscrapers, but steeples — to the shimmering harbor encircling the lower peninsula. Or, keep your feet on the ground at the stylish, pink Champagne bar tucked off the breezy marble lobby. At the iconic Husk Restaurant nearby, the number one rule is: if it doesn’t come from the South, it’s not coming through the door. The menu changes daily, based on local ingredients available, but the stunning interpretation of classic Southern ingredients never wavers. The more casual Bar at Husk, right next door, serves boozy cocktails, artisanal microbrews, and an epic list of whiskeys.

A long-time retreat for D.C. movers and shakers, St. Michaels on Maryland’s Eastern Shore is a maritime sanctuary that retains the look and feel of a 19th-century seaport. The 90-minute drive from Baltimore or Washington, D.C. will relax even the most stressed city-dweller, and guests at Inn at Perry Cabin can choose to begin their retreat without delay (or traffic) when they arrive on the inn’s luxurious butler-serviced Hinckley. This nautically themed inn built on 26 acres of gardens, orchards, and lawns has a quaint, yet modern feel. Begin your day with yoga on the banks of the River Miles and end it at Purser’s Pub with a game of backgammon and a craft cocktail muddled with cuttings from the hotel’s herb garden. Take a complimentary bicycle to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, where you’ll see restored bugeyes and skipjacks — unique boats developed by the fishermen of Chesapeake Bay. Then, head to the pier for famously fresh seafood, or start your day by the firepit on the wraparound patio at The Galley with a mimosa and a local Wittman Wharf crab cake “benny” and you might rethink your plans for the rest of the day.

MARITIME ST. MICHAELS

The harbor at St. Michaels in the fall. Image credit: Shutterstock

In a lush valley in sunny California, a distinctly spiritual village sits just two hours from Los Angeles, but couldn’t be farther removed from the hustle and glitz of its Southern California neighbors. Charming, cosmopolitan Ojai moves at a divinely unhurried pace. Stroll its mile-long main street, Ojai Avenue, and visit one-of-a-kind boutiques with friendly shopkeepers, bakeries, microbreweries, and tasting rooms (of the wine, olive oil, and vinegar varieties). A couple of blocks over, look for Bart’s Books, the largest independently owned outdoor bookstore in the country.

If you want a close-up look at a working beehive, complete with a hands-on demonstration by an actual beekeeper, book a 90-minute beekeeping tour at Ojai Valley Inn. Participants in a full bee suit, complete with gloves, hat, and face screen, are guided through the honey-making process, and learn how bees produce it, how they select a queen, and other intricacies of bee behavior. The iconic inn offers a range of active and peaceful pursuits — from a legendary golf course and a 31,000-square-foot spa village to an artist cottage and apothecary and multiple pools. The Farmhouse at Ojai hosts a team of Artisans in Residence, who share their passion and talents, and Food + Wine presents an epicurean weekend here every fall.

CALIFORNIA CALM

Ojai Valley Inn is set within 220 acres of perfectly landscaped gardens. Image credit: Shutterstock

Image credit: Shutterstock. Colorful fall foliage near Woodstock, Vermont

Image credit: Shutterstock. Decking out homes for Halloween in Savannah

Image credit: Hotel Bennett.

Image credit: Shutterstock. The harbor at St. Michaels in the fall

August 2023 (Volume 22)

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In fall, the weather is milder, the pace is slower, and coveted reservations are easier to score, which makes it the perfect time to get away without an agenda or schedule, and choosing a place close to home — whether you are in Europe or the United States — makes the journey as easy as the escape.

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