Switzerland’s beauty never fails to astound. Image credit: Shutterstock
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Mark Twain once wrote that “Switzerland would be a mighty big place if it were ironed flat.” Indeed, around two-thirds of this small but influential nation is swathed by the Swiss Alps, which stretch from Lake Geneva in the west to the Austrian border in the east. The allure of these magnificent peaks has for centuries attracted travelers eager to witness what many would describe as the most beautiful mountain scenery on the planet.
Justifiable Swiss pride for their mountains aside, there is so much more to discover in this central European country. A land bisected by crystal-clear lakes, flower-strewn meadows, medieval churches, vibrant cities, and picture-postcard villages, Switzerland’s beauty and culture never fail to astound, whatever the season.
Tradition is still very much embedded in everyday life — and if you’re lucky, you may come across one of the country’s unique, fascinating festivals. Then there’s that evocative sound that tells you you’re in Switzerland — the distant tinkle of cowbells — so reminiscent of childhood memories watching Heidi.
Discerning travelers have long regarded a winter vacation in Switzerland as the height of sophistication with its mix of European glamour, world-class snow sports, and après-ski scene.
However, Switzerland in the summer has many unique delights that can’t fail to tempt all ages. This is the season of scenic boat trips, fun times on the lakes, and the adrenaline rush of summer activities like Alpine coasting (tobogganing without the snow). Immerse yourself in the summer festival season: from hyper-local food festivals to the SaasFeestival in the Saas Valley where music meets the mountains, and the global reach of the Locarno Film Festival and the Montreux Jazz Festival.
Switzerland’s remarkable efficiency is characterized by a public transportation system that makes travel around the country a breeze (no hire cars and snow chains required). Trains, buses, boats, and cable cars all run on an integrated system, meaning you travel from lakeside to mountaintop in a smooth and stress-free way, leaving you time to enjoy Switzerland’s crowning glory, the incredible scenery, at any time of year. Even the most routine of journeys becomes a joy as glittering lakes, majestic mountainscapes, hillside wineries, and quaint villages glide by.
The majestic and iconic Matterhorn, still snow-clad in the summer months. Image credit: Shutterstock
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Year-Round Appeal
An aerial view of Zürich’s historic city center on the River Limmat. Image credit: Shutterstock
The Geneva skyline looking out past Saint-Pierre Cathedral, with the Jet d’Eau fountain visible on Lake Geneva. Image credit: Shutterstock
The usual starting point of a Swiss journey, the city of Zürich lies elegantly wrapped around the shores of Lake Zürich, offering distant views of the Alps on a clear day. You can spend hours wandering the cobblestone streets of the Altstadt (Old Town) dotted with designer boutiques, chic cafés, and chocolate shops. Book a table for lunch on the riverside terrace of Storchen Zurich overlooking the River Limmat for views of the city’s ancient spires such as the twin-towered Grossmünster church.
Art and design are everywhere in Zürich, from the myriad of masterpieces at the Kunsthaus — which unlike many of the world’s major galleries is pleasingly crowd-free — to the Pavillon Le Corbusier on the bank of Lake Zürich, the last building designed by the iconic Swiss architect. For a more contemporary vibe, head to Züri-West, a buzzing neighborhood featuring design shops galore at Im Viadukt and the store of local bag brand Freitag fashioned out of shipping containers.
Zürich institution Kronenhalle was a favored meeting spot for creatives such as James Joyce, Coco Chanel, and Federico Fellini and turns 100 in 2024. Diners come not just for the food and elegant ambiance, but also for the exquisite art collection, which adorns the walls of the dining room. Perhaps nothing encapsulates the Zürich experience more than enjoying a classic dish of Zürcher geschnetzeltes (Zürich ragout) under the gaze of a Joan Miró or Picasso.
WHERE OLD MEETS NEW
Life in the city takes on a distinctly cozy feel in the colder months as the streets fill with winter lights, diners feast on warming raclette and flammkuchen (a Swiss version of pizza), while outdoor cafés throng with hardy patrons snuggled up under sheepskins sipping glühwein.
But it is in the summer when the city comes alive as the atmosphere heats up in line with the mercury. Vibrant music and food festivals fill the calendar and the Swiss wholeheartedly embrace one of their favorite summer activities, lake swimming. Join the locals at one of Zürich’s open-air public bathing areas, or badis, to socialize, sunbathe, and take a refreshing dip. The wooden Seebad Utoquai has diving boards and rafts anchored in the lake, while the women-only Frauenbad at Stadthausquai is an Art Nouveau badi with fabulous views of the Old Town.
Southwest of Zürich, the equally picturesque city of Lucerne is the jumping-off point for many popular scenic boat trips. Board a traditional paddle steamer or modern cruiser on Lake Lucerne — it’s an efficient way of getting from A to B if you want to visit the summits of Pilatus and Rigi via the funicular railways, with world-class vistas thrown in, while a round trip over a leisurely lunch makes for a memorable way to spend the day.
SEASONAL TRADITIONS
Board a train at Zurich Bahnhof and be whisked away in timely comfort to one of Switzerland’s crown jewels, Zermatt. You’ll always remember your first experience of this archetypal mountain resort: that instantly recognizable peak of the Matterhorn that towers over the (car-free) village, the storybook roofs and cobblestone streets, and the year-round winter sports possibilities thanks to its high altitude and adjacent glacier.
Zermatt was discovered in the 1860s when the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn put it on the map for travelers and mountaineers. Today, it’s the ultimate ski resort. Glamorous and world-renowned, more than 200 miles of trails await — you can even ski over to Italy for lunch.
During the summer months, Klein Matterhorn is the largest and highest-altitude summer ski area in Europe. Away from the snow, Zermatt is a hub for mountain biking — the Glacier Garden Loop is ideal for families — while playing a few sets on one of the many public tennis courts is a great way to spend a morning.
THE ULTIMATE ALPINE EXPERIENCE
Zermatt retains much of its original charm: as guests of the historic Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, you are conveyed from the railway station in carriages drawn by stunning white Lipizzaner horses. Almost as synonymous with Zermatt as the Matterhorn, the Michelin-starred Chez Vrony in the pretty hamlet of Findeln has been feeding hungry skiers and walkers with its delicious organic fare for almost a century. Meanwhile, the picturesque Gornergrat cog railway has been taking passengers up 10,170 feet above sea level since 1898 for unrivaled panoramic views of the mountains and glaciers.
In the summer months, once at the top, spectacular flower-strewn meadows await — the literal meaning of Zermatt is Zur matte (in the meadow). Pack a picnic from Bäckerei Fuchs and choose a quiet spot by the Riffelsee lake to gaze at the classic reflection in the water of the Matterhorn. Along the Gornergrat ridge, you’ll also find Europe’s highest Alpine garden, a series of paths showcasing the beauty of the area’s flora and fauna, all with jaw-dropping views to match.
A Sense of History
The magnificent Matterhorn can be seen from Grand Hotel Zermatterhof. Image credit: Grand Hotel Zermatterhof
Whether you’re a foodie, art lover, adrenaline junkie, or just live for being outdoors, Switzerland is full of surprises and possibilities. There’s the stunning architecture of 7132 Hotel in Vals, home to a magnificent thermal spa and the two Michelin-starred 7132 Silver Restaurant. Or the gorgeous stained-glass windows in Zürich’s Fraumünster church, designed in the late 1960s by the then 80-year-old Marc Chagall.
Perhaps you’ll want to learn to paddleboard on one of the 1,500 lakes or try the unique Kitzelpfad (tickle path) around the idyllic Härzli lake in Engelberg where different textures such as sand, pebbles, and clay massage your feet and activate the immune system.
Did you know that 99% of Swiss wine never leaves the country? It’s so delicious that the Swiss prefer to keep it to themselves. Often made on a small family-run winery where the grapes are picked by hand, make sure you take time to sample a Gamay or Pinot Noir.
Switzerland has so much to offer all year round. The question is: what will you discover on your Swiss journey?
ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES
Perched beneath the Les Diablerets range in the Bernese Oberland, Gstaad has been a magnet for the smart set since the 1960s. This is a resort that combines chic with the charm of a Swiss Alpine village, where supercars and high-end boutiques are equally at home as quaint Alpine restaurants serving up fondue.
If you are a winter sports enthusiast, Gstaad has it all. In the winter there’s superlative skiing, horse-drawn carriage rides, and the chance to try newer sports such as snow golf and airboarding. For year-round snow fun, Glacier 3000 has a spectacular suspension bridge, glacier walks, and dogsled rides. Surrounded by the Alps, you really feel you are on the top of the world.
In the summer, the town buzzes with festivals ranging from music — Country Night Gstaad, which attracts stars such as Miranda Lambert, and the Menuhin Festival Gstaad — to sports including the Hublot Polo Gold Cup and the Swiss Open, which must boast one of the most spectacular backdrops of any ATP tennis tournament.
CHIC MEETS TRADITION
Driving up to the James Bond-esque entrance of The Alpina Gstaad, you know you’re about to encounter something special. Here, classic Swiss chalet style is fused with the ultimate in contemporary design providing an exceptional base for your stay in Gstaad. Indulgences range from a screening room and ski butler to the dreamy Six Senses Spa and the one Michelin-starred Restaurant Sommet.
Skiers and hikers can also sample Chef Martin Göschel’s award-winning flavors at Offcut!, a sustainable food truck stationed on the Vorderes Eggli trail, which turns leftovers from Restaurant Sommet’s kitchen into delicious dishes, such as fish tempura or fruit bread.
For a more traditional gourmet experience, order a fondue kit from Fondueland Gstaad. Gather a group together, get cozy in a hut or at one of the large fondue pot-like structures, and savor this delicious cheesy treat surrounded by the breathtaking mountain landscape.
Gstaad is one of the stops on the iconic GoldenPass train route, which starts in Lucerne. It’s one of Switzerland’s most exceptional train routes, taking you past jaw-dropping scenery such as the cobalt-blue waters of Lake Thun. Don’t miss the chance to hop onto the Belle Époque train, which goes twice daily from Gstaad. With its wood-paneled ceilings and elegant teal upholstered seats, it’s a wonderful glimpse into the romance of travel’s Golden Age, all for the price of a normal first-class ticket.
Chic alfresco dining and beautiful views at Storchen Zurich. Image credit: Storchen Zürich
7132 Hotel in Vals. Image credit: 7132 Hotel
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Where To Stay in Switzerland
With wonderful rail connections and stunning landscapes, Switzerland is a true year-round destination that never disappoints
Alpine Delights
BY SARAH NOTTON
December 2023 (Volume 23)
Destination: Switzerland
Top Tips for Taking the Train
Image credit: Shutterstock
Download the SBB Mobile app for timetables and itineraries.
Buy a Half Fare (Halbtax) travelcard for your stay – it offers half-price travel in any class on most methods of transport.
If you’re traveling with family, some trains even feature a children’s play area and a Starbucks.
For the most spectacular views, take one of the following routes: the Glacier Express, GoldenPass, Bernina Express, or Gotthard Panorama Express.
Put the book/cell phone away and look out the window.
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Five Fascinating Swiss Festivals
February – Fasnacht, Basel and elsewhere
This is the Swiss version of Carnival. Held on the first Monday after Ash Wednesday, the normally well-behaved Swiss dress up in costumes and party.
April – Sechselauten, Zürich
A centuries-old tradition to herald the beginning of spring. At 6 p.m. a pyre with a snowman-like figure (the Böögg) is set alight. The tradition goes that the faster his firework-packed head explodes, the finer the summer will be.
September – Zuglete, Gstaad
Dairy cows festooned with flowers are led by their farmers from the mountain pastures back down to the valley spring festival.
December – Samichlaus
The Swiss version of Santa Claus emerges with his silent companion, Schmutzli, leading a donkey and visiting children at kindergartens, classrooms, and homes.
June – Chriesisturm, Zug
Dating back to the 18th century, this marks the start of the cherry festival in Zug. Participants race through the old town carrying ladders, signifying the traditional rush to begin picking once the Chriesigloggä (cherry bell) announced the start of the harvest.
The charming bovine promenade of Zuglete. Image credit: Shutterstock
Switzerland’s beauty never fails to astound. Image credit: Shutterstock
Mark Twain once wrote that “Switzerland would be a mighty big place if it were ironed flat.” Indeed, around two-thirds of this small but influential nation is swathed by the Swiss Alps, which stretch from Lake Geneva in the west to the Austrian border in the east. The allure of these magnificent peaks has for centuries attracted travelers eager to witness what many would describe as the most beautiful mountain scenery on the planet.
Justifiable Swiss pride for their mountains aside, there is so much more to discover in this central European country. A land bisected by crystal-clear lakes, flower-strewn meadows, medieval churches, vibrant cities, and picture-postcard villages, Switzerland’s beauty and culture never fail to astound, whatever the season.
Tradition is still very much embedded in everyday life — and if you’re lucky, you may come across one of the country’s unique, fascinating festivals. Then there’s that evocative sound that tells you you’re in Switzerland — the distant tinkle of cowbells — so reminiscent of childhood memories watching Heidi.
BY JOHN BRUNTON
VILLE LUMIÈRE
Destination: Paris
December 2023 (Volume 23)
The majestic and iconic Matterhorn, still snow-clad in the summer months. Image credit: Shutterstock
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