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• The pasta shape most representative of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, straddling the Alps and the Adriatic on the border with Slovenia, is cjarsons. The rustic ravioli have various fillings: roasted onion, polenta, figs, and raisins; or softened rye bread and apples, just to name a few. Usually enjoyed on Christmas Eve, they’re served with smoked ricotta.
• Along the coast of Liguria, a different pasta takes center stage. Trofie, small twists of pasta, elegantly marry the ubiquitous pesto sauce made with locally grown basil, pine nuts, garlic, pecorino, and extra virgin olive oil, reduced to a paste using a marble mortar and olive wood pestle.
• Heading east, we land in the culinary kingdom of Emilia-Romagna, a region that elevates pasta to an art form. Bologna and Modena contend the birthplace of tortellini; the pasta’s intricate folds are said to have been inspired by the navel of Venus. Stuffed with a tantalizing mix of prosciutto, mortadella, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, they bathe in a luxurious bone broth.
• In the sun-kissed hills of Tuscany, mirroring the region’s multifaceted nature, pasta is an expression of both simplicity and sophistication. Pici, thick hand-rolled strands of pasta, effortlessly woo the flavors of Tuscany’s iconic game ragù.
• No pasta pilgrimage is complete without touching on the region of which Rome is the capital, Lazio. Potato gnocchi, plump and pillowy, are the stars of the local pasta scene, enjoyed traditionally on Thursdays. They are served with a simple tomato sauce or with sage and browned butter.
• Landlocked Umbria, the green heart of Italy, brings forth strangozzi, a hand-rolled pasta akin to fettuccine. These are served with a rustic wild boar ragù.
• The Marche region, nestled between the Apennines and the Adriatic, introduces vincisgrassi, a rich baked pasta layered with a meat and mushroom ragù. The delicate leaves of pasta are also often dressed with an offal sauce – a dish that reflects the region’s historical ties to the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
• Commencing in the northern Alpine lands, where the crisp air of the mountains kisses the fertile highlands, our pasta expedition starts in Valle d’Aosta. In this mountain wonderland bordering Switzerland and France, locals relish chnéffléne, pasta with clear francophone origins. The small, irregularly shaped buttons are obtained by pressing the soft dough of flour, egg, and milk through a special grater with large holes. The dressing of choice is fondue: local Toma di Gressoney cheese melted with milk and butter.
• Venturing east to the elegant embrace of Piemonte, gourmands bask in a land where red meats, exceptional wines, and prized truffles dance in seasonal harmony. Among the rolling hills carpeted by vineyards or in the stylish restaurants of Turin, agnolotti del plin take center stage. These small pasta pockets, hand-pinched to perfection, are filled with a medley of meats and showered with petals of white truffle.
• Lombardy, its cosmopolitan heart in Milan but with an equally Alpine soul, presents gourmands with many iconic pasta shapes. Among the most loved are pizzoccheri, short buckwheat ribbons traditionally dressed with boiled potatoes, savoy cabbage, browned butter, and grated bitto cheese.
• Further east is Trentino-Alto Adige, wedged between Switzerland and Austria. The local cuisine draws influence from both neighbors, showcasing canederli, rustic bread dumplings laced with speck (a smoked prosciutto) and Fontina cheese. They often grace the tables of ski-slope chalets, where they are bathed in broth.
• As our pasta exploration continues, devotees luxuriate in the bewitching Veneto region and its cuisine, where bigoli take the spotlight. The extruded strands’ rough texture makes them the perfect companions for the region’s iconic anchovy and onion dressing. In Venice, this pasta is typically enjoyed on the Feast of Redentore.
Landscapes of extraordinary beauty with islands and volcanoes; miles of sandy and rocky Mediterranean coastlines; Alpine peaks, glacier-era lakes, and fruitful hills: Italy comprises so much in such a compact space. It’s the only country on the planet with this type of topographical distribution, and its artistic and historical riches are undebatable. And, thanks to Italy’s unique biodiversity, its culinary prowess boasts equal worldwide fame. Yet it’s a nation that can’t be confined to a single culinary label. The gastronomic tapestry is as diverse as its landscapes.
That’s why “Italian cuisine” is a reductive term, and too broad a scope to condense. From the Alpine north, whose abundance of pastureland cues local recipes based on butter, to the sun-soaked coastal regions where olive groves thrive and render their liquid gold at the base of most southern recipes, Italy’s gastronomic traditions mirror the vast biodiversity and agricultural habitat that stretches across its 20 geographical regions. But the culinary compass is not just set by cardinal directions or lines drawn on a map. The fabric of local communities and the gastronomy of each individual territory makes the rainbow of variety brighter.
To focus on Italy’s territorial cuisine requires finding a common thread that links the 20 regions, providing a crucial tour d’horizon of each culinary history and tradition. That task can be undertaken by one food, and one food alone: pasta.
Ergo, to properly grasp the heart and soul of Italy, diving deep into its unique, local pasta perspectives, it’s imperative that we explore and savor the many representative types, shapes, and forms. With each twirl of the fork, we unravel the distinct characteristics of each region, each priding in many different and equally representative pasta shapes. For brevity’s sake we have chosen one emblematic per region.
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• In the cobbled alleys of Bari in Puglia, women handcraft the pasta of tradition: orecchiette, little ear-shaped delights that cradle piquant stir-fried broccoli rabe and pecorino.
• In sun-drenched Calabria, the art of pasta-making becomes a theatrical performance with fileja. The coiling shape grabs the robust flavors of ’nduja, the region’s spicy sausage.
• Sicily, with its unique Arabian influences, introduces us to busiate, a spiral pasta that effortlessly captures the flavor of a traditional sauce made with sautéed sardines, wild fennel pollen, golden sultanas, and pine nuts.
• And finally, in the jaw-dropping landscapes of Sardinia, malloreddus reign supreme. These small ridged pasta shells shelter sweet local tomatoes and fennel-infused sausages, offering a taste of the island’s rich culinary heritage.
A pasta route across the Italian regions provides a connection to the people, landscapes, and centuries-old traditions shaping each culinary masterpiece. These are not just ingredients – they are storytellers, carrying the essence of their regions to our tables. It’s a journey that beckons to savor the diverse cultural mosaic of Italy, one pasta shape at a time.
Image credit: Shutterstock
• Abruzzo, where the Apennines meet the Adriatic, offers a whimsical shape: spaghetti alla chitarra, obtained with an artisanal instrument that, like a guitar, pushes hearty pasta dough through metal strings to obtain square-section spaghetti. The typical accompaniment is a hearty lamb sauce.
• As we traverse the lesser-known gem of Italy, Molise, the pasta is cavatelli. This shape, with its ridges and hollows, becomes the perfect vessel for capturing the rich and tasty local ragù made with sausages and pork ribs.
• In the southern welcome of Campania, the region of which Naples, Capri, the Amalfi Coast, and Pompeii are a proud part, paccheri are the representative pasta shape. The large tubes are perfectly suited to capture the flavors of classic Neapolitan ragù, which requires several days of slow, simmering meats.
• The journey across the pastas of Italy takes pasta pundits to the mystical region of Basilicata, where the ancient city of Matera whispers secrets from its cave dwellings. Here, locals savor the unique texture of strascinati, hand-formed coins that marry a robust lamb and sausage ragù.
Eleonora Baldwin is a TV celebrity, journalist, and culinary connoisseur based in Rome, Italy. Constantly on the lookout for pleasures of the palate in Italy and beyond, her reporting appears regularly in both online and print food and travel media. Her topics focus on Italian lifestyle, culinary customs, and recipes.
She is the host and creator of primetime TV hit series such as ABCheese, Uazz’America, Cheese Hunters, and A Tavola con Mamma broadcast on Italy’s leading food media outlet, Gambero Rosso Channel. Her co-owned travel company Casa Mia Tours designs custom culinary adventures.
Eleonora Baldwin is a TV celebrity, journalist, and culinary connoisseur based in Rome, Italy. Constantly on the lookout for pleasures of the palate in Italy
and beyond, her reporting appears regularly in both online and print food travel media. Her topics focus on Italian lifestyle, culinary customs, and recipes.
She is the host and creator of primetime TV hit series such as ABCheese, Uazz’America, Cheese Hunters, and A Tavola con Mamma broadcast on Italy’s leading food media outlet, Gambero Rosso Channel. Her co-owned travel company Casa Mia Tours designs custom culinary adventures.
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• The journey across the pastas of Italy takes pasta pundits to the mystical region of Basilicata, where the ancient city of Matera whispers secrets from its cave dwellings. Here, locals savor the unique texture of strascinati, hand-formed coins that marry a robust lamb and sausage ragù.
• In the cobbled alleys of Bari in Puglia, women handcraft the pasta of tradition: orecchiette, little ear-shaped delights that cradle piquant stir-fried broccoli rabe and pecorino.
• In sun-drenched Calabria, the art of pasta-making becomes a theatrical performance with fileja. The coiling shape grabs the robust flavors of ’nduja, the region’s spicy sausage.
• Sicily, with its unique Arabian influences, introduces us to busiate, a spiral pasta that effortlessly captures the flavor of a traditional sauce made with sautéed sardines, wild fennel pollen, golden sultanas, and pine nuts.
• And finally, in the jaw-dropping landscapes of Sardinia, malloreddus reign supreme. These small ridged pasta shells shelter sweet local tomatoes and fennel-infused sausages, offering a taste of the island’s rich culinary heritage.
A pasta route across the Italian regions provides a connection to the people, landscapes, and centuries-old traditions shaping each culinary masterpiece. These are not just ingredients – they are storytellers, carrying the essence of their regions to our tables. It’s a journey that beckons to savor the diverse cultural mosaic of Italy, one pasta shape at a time.
• No pasta pilgrimage is complete without touching on the region of which Rome is the capital, Lazio. Potato gnocchi, plump and pillowy, are the stars of the local pasta scene, enjoyed traditionally on Thursdays. They are served with a simple tomato sauce or with sage and browned butter.
• Landlocked Umbria, the green heart of Italy, brings forth strangozzi, a hand-rolled pasta akin to fettuccine. These are served with a rustic wild boar ragù.
• The Marche region, nestled between the Apennines and the Adriatic, introduces vincisgrassi, a rich baked pasta layered with a meat and mushroom ragù. The delicate leaves of pasta are also often dressed with an offal sauce – a dish that reflects the region’s historical ties to the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
• Abruzzo, where the Apennines meet the Adriatic, offers a whimsical shape: spaghetti alla chitarra, obtained with an artisanal instrument that, like a guitar, pushes hearty pasta dough through metal strings to obtain square-section spaghetti. The typical accompaniment is a hearty lamb sauce.
• As we traverse the lesser-known gem of Italy, Molise, the pasta is cavatelli. This shape, with its ridges and hollows, becomes the perfect vessel for capturing the rich and tasty local ragù made with sausages and pork ribs.
• In the southern welcome of Campania, the region of which Naples, Capri, the Amalfi Coast, and Pompeii are a proud part, paccheri are the representative pasta shape. The large tubes are perfectly suited to capture the flavors of classic Neapolitan ragù, which requires several days of slow, simmering meats.
• Along the coast of Liguria, a different pasta takes center stage. Trofie, small twists of pasta, elegantly marry the ubiquitous pesto sauce made with locally grown basil,
pine nuts, garlic, pecorino, and extra
virgin olive oil, reduced to a paste
using a marble mortar and olive
wood pestle.
• Heading east, we land in the
culinary kingdom of
Emilia-Romagna, a region
that elevates pasta to an art form.
Bologna and Modena contend the
birthplace of tortellini; the pasta’s intricate folds are said to have been inspired by the navel of Venus. Stuffed with a tantalizing mix of prosciutto, mortadella, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, they bathe in a luxurious bone broth.
• In the sun-kissed hills of Tuscany, mirroring the region’s multifaceted nature, pasta is an expression of both simplicity and sophistication. Pici, thick hand-rolled strands of pasta, effortlessly woo the flavors of Tuscany’s iconic game ragù.
• Lombardy, its cosmopolitan heart in Milan but with an equally Alpine soul, presents gourmands with many iconic pasta shapes. Among the most loved are pizzoccheri, short buckwheat ribbons traditionally dressed with boiled potatoes, savoy cabbage, browned butter, and grated bitto cheese.
• Further east is Trentino-Alto Adige, wedged between Switzerland and Austria. The local cuisine draws influence from both neighbors, showcasing canederli, rustic bread dumplings laced with speck (a smoked prosciutto) and Fontina cheese. They often grace the tables of ski-slope chalets, where they are bathed in broth.
• As our pasta exploration continues, devotees luxuriate in the bewitching Veneto region and its cuisine, where bigoli take the spotlight. The extruded strands’ rough texture makes them the perfect companions for the region’s iconic anchovy and onion dressing. In Venice, this pasta is typically enjoyed on the Feast of Redentore.
• The pasta shape most representative of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, straddling the Alps and the Adriatic on the border with Slovenia, is cjarsons. The rustic ravioli have various fillings: roasted onion, polenta, figs, and raisins; or softened rye bread and apples, just to name a few. Usually enjoyed on Christmas Eve, they’re served with smoked ricotta.
Image credit: iStock; Bastille square Paris France Sunny day Winter
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Rome-based TV personality and food connoisseur Eleonora Baldwin is our guide for a voyage of culinary discovery across the regions of Italy
April 2024 (Volume 24)
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