My Milan Weekend

Destination: Italy

The residential high-rises Bosco Verticale in Milan’s Isola district. Image credit: Shutterstock

Contrada Bricconi is a medieval hamlet north of Bergamo, a 90-minute trek from Milan, but worth it for mountain views and its fine-dining, farm-to-table restaurant.

Brothers Remo & Mario Capitaneo

Insider’s tip:

Out-of-town getaway:

Indulge in coffee and cake in Pasticceria Marchesi, one of Milan’s top pastry shops. The exquisite pastries, chocolates, and Milanese panettone makes it a must, with three cafés to choose from. For cocktails, we’re fans of Carico on Via Savona and, for dinner, Cracco in Galleria.

Our favorite district is Isola, currently ultra-cool thanks to its recent revamp and high-rises such as the Bosco Verticale, a “vertical forest” of vegetation. The neighborhood has a vibrant spirit, best seen in its street art, vintage stores, and buzzing bars, restaurants, and nightlife. Isola is a mix of Milanese balconied blocks, small 1920s villas, and contemporary skyscrapers. The area still maintains a village vibe, with its open-air market on Saturday a prelude to exploring incredible street art. Via Antonio Pollaiuolo reveals works by renowned street artists, and it’s worth exploring the mural-splashed area around Garibaldi station close to Lia Rumma, Milan’s most prestigious contemporary art gallery. If not cooking at our own restaurant on Piazza del Duomo, we might eat at La Sala Bistrot, which has a strong wine list and first-class ingredients.

Duomo square and Milan Cathedral at sunrise. Image credit: Shutterstock

April 2024 (Volume 24)

Interviews by Lisa Gerard-Sharp

Michelin-starred chefs at Verso ristoranteverso.com

Porta San Giacomo, one of the four main city gates leading into the heart of old Bergamo. Image credit: Shutterstock

Just 40 minutes from Milan, Bergamo is the “sleeping beauty” city that woke up in 2023 when it became Italian Capital of Culture. Begin in the lower town with the splendid Accademia Carrara art museum and boutique-lined streets before heading to the Renaissance upper town and the richly decorated Colleoni Chapel. Then retreat to a typical restaurant, such as Da Mimmo, Trattoria da Ornella, or Pasticceria Cavour.

I love early 20th-century interiors which, in Milanese mansions, can reach great heights of refinement. Casa Museo Boschi Di Stefano is a 1930s bourgeois apartment designed by Piero Portaluppi, the same architect behind the more famous Villa Necchi Campiglio. The walls are studded with Italian masterpieces by the likes of Sironi, Morandi, De Pisis, and Fontana.

Out-of-town getaway:

Insider’s tip:

Milan is Italy’s most vibrant and international city. It never stands still. The up-and-coming district is NoLo, Milan’s answer to Brooklyn, with the Piazza Morbegno area full of hipster haunts. Trendy bars, bakeries, and restaurants include Silvano, NoLoSo, Ghe Pensi Mi, and Fòla. The latest luxury shopping district is Piazza del Quadrilatero, set in a former archbishop’s palace, and home to cool boutiques such as Antonia. In the surrounding Corso Venezia area are a clutch of chic bistros, of which my favorites are the palatial Paper Moon Giardino, meaty Gran Baguttin, all-day Sant’Ambroeus, and traditional Bice. I’m also a fan of Boeucc for a Milanese dinner in an atmospheric spot that summons up Old-World Milan. The Brera district offers a blend of fashion, design, and art. The Pinacoteca di Brera is the best spot for idling over masterpieces by Caravaggio and Piero della Francesca. Elsewhere, my favorite Milanese museums are the Triennale, a showcase to Italian design and contemporary art, along with Fondazione Prada, and the more classic Gallerie d’Italia, conveniently close to La Scala.

Federico Chiara

The 19th-century Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is the oldest shopping mall in the world. Image credit: Shutterstock

Lake Como is both the star attraction and a place of low-key pleasures. My wife and I are fond of taking a leisurely stroll from Villa Olmo to Como’s waterfront Piazza Cavour, the gateway to the historic city center. By night, it’s also charming to see the lakeside lit up.

Milan Cathedral seen afresh, with a guide. You haven’t “done the Duomo” until you’ve unraveled its secrets, ending with the stunning view of Milan from the rooftops. Spot the Meridian line and signs of the Zodiac. Clamber along the lofty terraces to see the pinnacles and spires crowned by the golden Madonnina statue and symbol of Milan.

Out-of-town getaway:

Insider’s tip:

A Milanese Sunday morning is special for early risers. Before 9 a.m. we can explore the city center without the crowds. I recommend strolling peacefully to the Castello Sforzesco, the moody castle and park. This is Milan at the magic hour. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is my top tip for luxury international shopping, even if I’m biased as we have a store there. If Milan is the Italian fashion capital, then this grand shopping gallery is its international showcase. Apart from browsing for a broad range of luxury goods, from Prada to Louis Vuitton, you will be captivated by “Milan’s drawing room,” the oldest shopping mall in Europe.

Chair of Bric’s luxury luggage brand brics.it

Roberto Briccola

Naviglio Grande canal in Porta Genova is lined with lively bars and restaurants. Image credit: Shutterstock

Mantua is one of Italy’s most evocative cities. It’s full of history and charm, and surrounded by three lakes; the view of the city’s skyline from Ponte San Giorgio is so atmospheric, especially at sunset. Then there’s the frescoed Sala dei Giganti in Palazzo Te, one of the most breathtaking fresco cycles I have ever seen. Whenever I am in Mantua, I make time for a quick visit.

Be curious. I often compare Milan to a reserved lady. At first, she might come across as cold, you need time to really appreciate her. Most of Milan’s beauties are hidden behind heavy portoni. Whenever you find an open doorway, venture in, for it might be hiding a secret courtyard, a garden, sometimes entire blocks of historic buildings.

Out-of-town getaway:

Insider’s tip:

As a photographer specializing in food, most of my beloved places are related to a flavor or a dish. Ratanà in the Isola district serves the best risotto alla Milanese in town, something that lifts the spirits from the first bite. Then there are the incredible croissants at Alain Locatelli – his tiny bakery near Porta Genova is as close as you can get to France – or a slice of torta rosa (rose cake) at the uniquely Wes Andersonian Bar Luce in the Fondazione Prada. This arts center is another favorite of mine – a former industrial complex with something quirky about its spatial setting. The outdoors are especially impressive late in the afternoon, when the sun glints on the glass structure, creating beautiful plays of light. And the view from the top of the cathedral is something of a classic; but I will never tire of it.

Milanese photographer marinaspironetti.com

Marina Spironetti

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