In the morning, it’s another early start to get to Nizamuddin station for our train to Agra. Once again I’m pleased to have Ros and Raaj in charge. In 1996 I missed my train to Agra and lost days trying to catch up. There’s no chance of that with Great Rail Journeys. Even better, all our luggage is taken ahead. As we speed through Uttar Pradesh on the Gatimaan Express, I wonder if I will be as enamoured by the marble mausoleum as I was back then. Our first stop is Agra Fort, beautiful and enigmatic, but for me an amuse-bouche to the majesty of the Taj. It’s where we get our first glimpse of India’s most famous icon in the distance. “It’s like a mirage,” breathes fellow guest Kathy, who’s visiting India for the first time.
Perched on the banks of the river Yamuna, the Taj Mahal was built in 1631 by the fifth Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife, Mumtaz, who died giving birth to her 14th child. As one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, I needn’t have worried I’d be underwhelmed. I’m blown away by the ethereal edifice all over again, as are the rest of the group. “It’s just the epitome of true beauty,” sighs Sarah, who’s also enjoying her first visit to India. “It eclipses everything else we’ve seen,” adds her husband Stephen.
After exploring India as a young backpacker, Tracey Davies has a very different but equally unforgettable
experience on a Great Rail Journeys escorted tour
How I fell in love with India
all over again
“Welcome to chaotic Delhi!” shouts Ros, above the toots and horns of the million tuk-tuks, buses, motorbikes and cars all vying for space on the road. It’s 29 years since I was last on Indian soil and right now – as a yellow-and-green tuk-tuk swerves around us to dodge a cow wandering in the road – it feels like yesterday.
From the moment I step out of Delhi Airport, after the overnight flight from London, I feel like my senses have been put in a blender. Colourful, pungent, noisy and a little bit bonkers – and I love it. This is India, just how I remember it.
I was 23 when I was first thrown into India’s beautiful chaos and I emerged a different person. After nearly three decades away, I’m excited to see how much it has changed. But rather than travelling as a frugal backpacker, I’m doing it in style with Great Rail Journeys and its Five-Star India's Golden Triangle & Shimla escorted tour.
For the next 12 days, I’m in the safe hands of Ros Adley, one of Great Rail Journeys’ experienced tour managers in the region, and Raaj Sharma, who’ll be our local guide. And unlike my first experience of India, I’m delighted to be staying in four- and five-star hotels all the way. Our first stop is the Taj Palace in New Delhi, where I’m welcomed with a bindi mark on my forehead and a garland of beads around my neck ‘for luck’.
We have free time to enjoy the luxurious hotel today before our first dinner together and a chance to properly meet my fellow travellers. There are 35 in our group and while it’s largely couples, as one of the few solo travellers, I’m made to feel very welcome. Maybe because, like me, everyone seems to love travel, adventure… and a nice G&T in the evening.
Back in Delhi for the first time in 29 years, Tracey’s memories come flooding back as she travels India’s Golden Triangle in style with Great Rail Journeys
It’s an early start the next day as we head to New Delhi Station to catch the Shatabdi Express to Kalka and our first real experience of Delhi in the raw. Navigating our way through thronging crowds, the sights, sounds and scents of the station – the hiss and clank of coupling carriages, chaiiwalas calling out their wares, old men with grins orange with betel nut – really take me back.
India’s railways were at the heart of my travels back in 1996, which for me was the main draw of a Great Rail Journeys holiday. When I travelled across India all those years ago, it was the views from the train that stayed with me. All life happens along these train tracks; snoozing cows and working buffalo, barefoot children flying paper kites, women in colourful saris toiling in the earth under a muted sun. However, the Shatabdi Express is a far cry from the Indian train journeys I remember. Comfortable seats, air conditioning, a cup of chai and a biscuit and a hot meal if you want. It's outright luxury compared to the third-class ‘chickens-and-all’ experience I remember.
Day 1-4
Discovering Delhi and Shimla
The Toy Train to Shimla weaves through the Shivalik foothills of the Himalayas on a 96-kilometre-long track
We have three nights at the Oberoi Cecil, Shimla’s most historic hotel which combines heavenly views of the Himalayas with more than a colonial nod to the British Empire. In the morning, we group together for a guided tour of Shimla and visit the Monkey Temple and Viceregal Lodge, the baronial pile where the Partition agreement was drawn up. It’s a building that would look more appropriate in the Scottish glens than the Himalayas. We have some free time in the afternoon and I join Ros for a wander along The Mall to Scandal Point. “I love being a tour manager for this trip,” she tells me. “It’s so varied. I love the calm and peace of the Himalayas, then Delhi, Agra and Jaipur are always a proper assault on the senses. Everywhere we visit has a different vibe.”
Considered one of the most beautiful train journeys in India, the Kalka–Shimla line winds its way through the foothills of the Himalayas. Opened in 1903, the Kalka-Shimla route was built to connect Shimla, the summer capital of India during the British Raj, with the rest of the Indian Railway network. Now a Unesco World Heritage Site, the railway passes 20 stations, over nearly a thousand bridges and viaducts, and through a hundred tunnels on its five-hour journey to Shimla.
We pile into the rather basic carriages – there’s a good reason this mountain railway is known as the Toy Train – and trundle along the narrow-gauge tracks at a gentle pace. I notice the scenery becoming more lush, monkeys in the trees, pine trees growing alongside date palms, and the temperature cooling degree by degree as we inch up through the mountains. And while it might not have the comfort of the Maharajas’ Express – another of Great Rail Journeys’ memorable tours – it’s a real and authentic experience and one I’ll remember for a long time.
We’re spending the next two nights in the Ranthambore Regency Hotel, a 10-minute drive from Ranthambore National Park. Our itinerary includes two safari drives, one in the afternoon and one at sunrise, in an open-top cantor. Seeing Royal Bengal tigers in the wild is never promised – there are just 75 in the park, plus leopards, sloth bears, crocodiles and deer. While we weren’t lucky on the first trip, the following morning’s game drive came up trumps, starting with a sloth bear lumbering past us like a real-life Baloo from The Jungle Book. Moments later, we come across another cantor waiting patiently at the side of a lake. "There! Tiger,” whispers our safari guide, Rati. And there, lounging in the grass is a giant stripy pussycat. We have several keen amateur photographers in the group and it was thrilling to see their excitement as two more tigers rocked up, just as majestic, fierce … and orange … as I hoped. Pure magic.
Our final stop is Jaipur, a city which stands out as a vivid memory of my original trip. If India was a colour it would be pink. It’s ubiquitous throughout the country but nowhere more so than in Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. In 1876, Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh I had the city painted pink to welcome Queen Victoria, and Prince Albert gave it the nickname the Pink City.
We explore the Amber Fort, a huge hilltop fort and palace complex and another icon of India, where the ever-knowledgeable Raaj guides us once more through its rich and intriguing history. From the battlements, I watch as a cavalcade of decorated elephants parade along the approach, camels in tasselled capes crouch on the road, while macaque monkeys bounce off the walls. “It’s just so India!” I say, grinning to Kathy, whose husband Graham lived here as a boy.
All 12 nights of Great Rail Journeys’ India’s Five-Star India's Golden Triangle & Shimla escorted tour are spent in either four- or five-star hotels, with breakfast and dinner included each day, along with six lunches.
Make connections, forge lasting memories and discover new experiences around the world with Great Rail Journeys. To plan your next adventure, visit greatrail.com
Moments that last a lifetime
Produced by
Telegraph Media Group
Project Manager: Abby Draycott | Commissioning Editor: Rachel Truman | Writer: Rory Ross| Photography: Andrew Urwin and additional photography: Getty, Stephen & Viv Redding | Design: Jonathan Clayton-Jones | Sub Editor: Tim Cummings, Neil Queen-Jones | Video and Photography Manager: Alex Kelly | Web Editor: Ross Thomas
Great Rail Journeys’ 14-day Five-Star India's Golden Triangle & Shimla tour unveils India at its most resplendent, taking in the likes of Delhi, Shimla, the Taj Mahal, Jaipur and Ranthambore National Park.
Produced by Telegraph Media Group
Commissioning editor: Rachel Truman | Writer: Tracey Davies | Photography: Fred MacGregor and additional photography: Getty | Web producer: Ross Thomas Design: Matt Brant | Project manager: Abby Draycott | Head of video and photography: Alex Kelly | Sub editor: Tim Cummings, Neil Queen-Jones
This opulent five-star hotel is an elegant and quiet oasis in busy New Delhi. Set in tropical gardens, it has a large outdoor pool, both buffet and fine dining restaurants, and an elegant lounge bar with a nightly ‘happy hour’.
‘I love the calm peace of the Himalayas, then Delhi, Agri and Jaipur are always a proper assault on the senses‘
Ros Adley
While our 12-day itinerary is jam-packed, you also have some free time to follow your own agenda. I didn’t know if I’d make it back to this part of India again so on our free day, I took the optional excursion to Kufri, a hill station in the Himalayas. And I’m so glad I did. Driving up the second oldest road in India, yaks grazing on the side of the road, Himalayan griffons gliding overhead, the resulting 360-degree views of the range is simply breathtaking.
After three days in these bewitching mountains, it’s back to Delhi and this time it’s a welcome deep dive into this remarkable city, thanks to a brilliant guided tour. Our first stop is Jama Masjid, Delhi's largest mosque, which was ordered to be built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in 1644. After the serenity of the mosque, the rickshaw ride through the bustling bazaar is a beautifully intense way to see real life here.
The yellow sandstone of the majestic Amber Fort provides an imposing backdrop for a decorated elephant
One of my Jaipur highlights is a ride in a pink rickshaw with Renu Sharma, who runs the Pink City Rickshaw Company, a non-profit which provides women from low-income backgrounds with training and jobs. “I’ve been driving rickshaws for nine years now. Don’t worry, I know these streets!” Renu grins while weaving around yet another cow lying in the street.
Seeing cows in the street, yaks in the Himalayas, tigers in the wild, and getting reacquainted with my beloved Taj Mahal, not to mention the dozens of new friendships I’ve made along the way, are the experiences and connections I might have missed as a backpacker. Last time, I remember returning home after two months, utterly exhausted. India is an incredible country, but it’s not always an easy one to explore. But in just 12 days, guided under the safe wings of Ros, Raaj and Great Rail Journeys, I feel I’ve got to know and love this blessed country even more.
One of the things I was most excited about was the food. Indian food is one of the world’s great gastronomic joys. Creamy dhals, fragrant masalas, the ghee-brushed naan which I wolfed by the dozen. The pickles, the chutneys, the super-sweet desserts – you could spend a year in India and not eat the same thing twice. I was a little concerned that staying in luxury hotels would somewhat limit my access to authentic Indian food, but I needn’t have worried. Everywhere we stayed on Great Rail Journey’s India’s Golden Triangle, Tigers and Shimla escorted tour served authentic regional cuisine, from aloo tikki, khichdi, paneer makhani in Delhi to the namkeens, chaat and paratha of Agra. Even on the road, we could pick up fresh kachori, the dhal-stuffed fried pastries from Rajasthan, and fat samosas filled with spicy potato, when cravings hit. Our guide helping us to find the best places to go.
In Shimla, I had the pleasure of sitting down to a traditional high tea at Wildflower Hall, the former home of British commander-in-chief, Lord Kitchener. It’s now a beautiful Oberoi hotel with the most incredible views over the Himalayas. A wonderful blend of Anglo-Indian traditions, I feast like a maharani on paneer kathi rolls, tiny tuna sandwiches, chocolate-dipped pastries, and walnut cake, all washed down with pots of fragrant Darjeeling tea.
“This is our first escorted tour and I’ve really enjoyed it. I think we’ve been extremely lucky with our companions, they’ve been good fun. And I’ve got used to not having to make any arrangements. I think it’s really good value for money, especially as everything is included, we’ve not had to pay any entrance fees or had to queue. It’s been fabulous. We’re already thinking about our next one.
“I particularly enjoyed all the little insights into modern Indian culture from our guide, Raaj. The caste system, arranged marriages, the welfare system, education, taxes, he’s covered everything. It’s a great contrast to all the temples and tombs that we’ve seen.”
“We don’t normally go on escorted tours but we knew India would have its challenges. We decided to try it and we think it’s been handled really well. It’s allowed us to see a lot of things which we wouldn’t be able to do in the same timescale, and we’ve been looked after well.
“We’ve really enjoyed the group thing too, it’s a great bunch of people. We particularly wanted to see India in this way and I think it’s been a real success. Would we do another one? Yes, probably one in another destination which is challenging in a similar way to India.
“We’ve stayed in some beautiful hotels and we’ve done something every day, so you have to be quite robust. With the views of the Himalayas, the Taj Mahal, and seeing four tigers, we’ve been very lucky indeed.”
Jayne Murphy
“I think Great Rail Journeys offers a well-balanced and extremely efficient means of exploring this incredible country. It’s great to have the respite of staying in comfortable hotels. We’ve also been fast-tracked through numerous sites and have an informative guide in Raaj. I’ve enjoyed the rail journeys, in particular, which make sure you’re kept in touch with the harsher realities of how some of these extraordinary and welcoming people live.”
“This is our third Great Rail Journeys’ tour. The thing we love about it is the organisation of it all. They take care of everything, you just don’t have to think. We have a busy work life, so for us, it makes a huge difference. It’s complete relaxation. You’re not going to be thinking about what you’re going to do the next day, because it’s all planned for you.” – Andy
“You have the tour manager, the local guides, but also the back-up of the office at home. You just know that whatever happens, they’ve got it covered. It gives you a lot of confidence.
“I’ve absolutely loved India. For me, I don’t think it’s a destination or a place, it’s not a thing, it’s an emotion” – Ann
Pink City Rickshaw Company drivers pose proudly for a photograph with Tracey (left). An experienced group of drivers, they expertly navigate the busy and colourful streets of Jaipur
Experienced tour manager Ros Adley leads the 35-strong party through the Himalayas, Delhi, Agra and Jaipur
After four hours, we arrive in Kalka where we will board the Toy Train to Shimla, the charming nickname for the century-old narrow-gauge railway which winds through the foothills of the Himalayas. Eventually we arrive in Shimla and at 2,200m (7,200 ft) above sea level, the crisp mountain air almost sparkles. The summer capital of the British Raj until 1947, Shimla is immediately recognisable by the candy-coloured houses that scatter its slopes. “It reminds me of Switzerland,” says fellow guest Andy, who had recently been on Great Rail Journeys' Classic Glacier Express and Bernina Express tour with his wife Ann.
A rickshaw ride is an exhilarating way to take in the authentic sights and sounds of bustling Delhi
The tour takes in sprawling views of Shimla and the colourful Sankat Mochan Temple, dedicated to Hindu god Hanuman
ON THE TOY TRAIN TO SHIMLA
Day 8-10
WONDERS AWAIT IN AGRA AND RANTHAMBORE
The Unesco-listed Taj Mahal, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, was built by emperor Shah Jahan to honour his wife
Constructed from red sandstone, Agra Fort's interior showcases remarkable examples of Mughal architecture
As we leave Agra, I wonder if anything can possibly top the Taj. It turns out that tigers can. But before I catch a glimpse of India’s beguiling big cats, we stop at Fatehpur Sikri, the former capital of the Mughal empire and now a Unesco World Heritage Site. Raaj, our fountain of knowledge at every site, explains a little of its history, wrapped up in the origins of Sufism, a mystical form of Islam. Unlike the crowds at Taj, it’s off the beaten path and feels incredibly calm and peaceful.
A fascinating safari in Ranthambore National Park takes in many incredible species, including the elusive Bengal tiger
Day 11-14
REVELLING IN
THE RICHES
OF RAJASTHAN
the intoxicating
flavours of india
Where you'll stay
Taj Palace, New Delhi
Escape the hustle and bustle of the Pink City in this regal five-star hotel close to Amer Fort and Jaipur. It has a serene spa, an elegant restaurant and a chichi rooftop bar with an infinity pool overlooking the city.
TAJ AMER JAIPUR
A spectacular heritage hotel drenched in wooden panelling, with roaring fireplaces and a grand atrium. It has a spa and an indoor pool, as well as a restaurant with panoramic views over Shimla and the Himalayas.
THE OBEROI CECIL, SHIMLA
This charming four-star hotel is set in lush tropical gardens just a 10-minute drive from Ranthambore National Park. After the game drives, cool off in the outdoor pool or relax in the garden bar and enjoy a drink with friends around the fire pit.
RANTHAMBORE REGENCY
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moments that last
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the verdict on the tour
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Book your escorted tour to India
Cath Barton-Smith
Ann and Andy Hawkins
“We've done loads of escorted tours and Great Rail Journeys knocks spots off the rest. It’s the attention to detail which makes the difference. It’s the small things. Everything is included: tipping, transfers, porterage. And India is a whole different experience to the tours we’ve been on before. The food, the people, the mayhem, the animals in the road, it can be a little overwhelming, but it’s a real experience. We’re off to Morocco next with Great Rail Journeys to explore the Atlas Mountains.”
Steve Launchbury
Ian Hall
PAKISTAN
TIBET
NEPAL
INDIA
Shimla
Agra
Fatehpur Sikri
Ranthambore
Jaipur
Delhi
Numbers on map reflect how many nights spent in each location
Day 8-10
WONDERS AWAIT IN AGRA AND RANTHAMBORE