Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Fall 2017 Menswear
The Triple S was the ugliest, and best-selling, luxury sneaker of 2017.
Photo: Getty Images
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Fall 2017 Menswear
Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior Spring 2017 Couture
Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior Spring 2017 Couture
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Matthew Adams Dolan Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Matthew Adams Dolan Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: © Shawn Brackbill / Courtesy of Matthew Adams Dolan
Chromat Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Chromat Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / IndigitalImages.com
Beyoncé in a Peter Dundas dress and House of Malakai headpiece at the 2017 Grammys
Beyoncé in a Peter Dundas dress and House of Malakai headpiece at the 2017 Grammys.
Photo: Getty Images
Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Reed Krakoff Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Vacquera Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: IndigitalImages.com
Vacquera Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The immigration crisis at the Mexican border raised questions about American values and about just who gets to identify as a citizen.
Erdem Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Erdem Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / IndidgitalImages.com
Alessandro Michele for Gucci Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Alessandro Michele for Gucci Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv; Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Prada Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Getty Images
Dakota Johnson in Gucci at the 2017 Academy Awards.
Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear Max Mara
Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Rick Owens Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
John Galliano for Maison Margiela Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
John Galliano for Maison Margiela Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Comme des Garçons Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Haider Ackermann Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Undercover Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Junya Watanabe Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Comme des Garçons Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Stella McCartney Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Phoebe Philo for Céline Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv (runway); Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv (detail)
Phoebe Philo for Céline Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The last works of a Renaissance man. Eighty percent of this collection was finished before Lee McQueen took his own life. “He wanted to get back to the handcraft he loved, and the things that are being lost in the making of fashion,” Sarh Burton told Sarah Mower. “He was looking at the art of the Dark Ages, but finding light and beauty in it.”
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Jean Paul Gaultier for Hermès
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / indigital.tv
Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / indigital.tv
Sacai Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Stella McCartney Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Among those most on theme for the Met’s celebration of Rei Kawakubo, the iconoclastic force
behind Comme des Garçons, was Rihanna.
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Proenza Schouler Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Rodarte Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Lorem Ipsum Lorem Ipsum Lorem Ipsum
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Fall 2017 Couture
Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Matthew Adams Dolan Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Maryam Nassir Zadeh Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Eckhaus Latta Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Michael Kors Collection Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Luar Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Phoebe Philo for Céline Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Faustine Steinmetz Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Alessandro Michele for Gucci Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Jeremy Scott for Moschino Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Stella McCartney Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Iris Van Herpen Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Indigital.tv
Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Umberto Fratini / indigital.tv (runway)
Theyskens’ Theory Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Getty Images
Donna Karan Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
Jeremy Scott Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Having moved his show back to New York from Paris, the designer made like the all-American his is: ordering take-out and flipping the bird.
Photo: Kim WestonArnold / Indigital.tv
Louise Gray Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv; Getty Images
Mary Katrantzou Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Meadham Kirchhoff Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Prada Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Edward James / Indigital.tv
Raf Simons for Jil Sander Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Looking for an antidote to minimalism in ready-to-wear, Raf Simons landed not on maximalism, but couture. Later in the decade Pierpaolo Piccioli would also take up an elevated, craft-based approach to design at Valentino, as well.
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Consuelo Castiglioni for Marni Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
Marc Jacobs Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Having gone as far as possible with glitz, Christopher Decarnin’s glamified grunge, which was arguably the most resonant of 1990s trends.
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Michael Kors Collection Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv; Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Alber Elbaz for Lanvin Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Edward James / Indigital.tv
Phoebe Philo for Céline Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv; Getty Images
Faustine Steinmetz Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Stella McCartney Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / GoRunway.com
Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com
Christopher Kane Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Prada Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Versace Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Francesco Risso for Marni Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Jacquemus Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Koché Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Dries Van Noten Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
John Galliano for Maison Margiela Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Natacha Ramsay-Levi for Chloé Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Undercover Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Gypsy Sport Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Comme des Garçons Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Phoebe Philo for Céline Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Faith Connexion Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Thom Browne Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Marine Serre Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Like Adam Selman, Matthew Adams Dolan benefitted from being a protégé of Rihanna.
Becca McCharen-Tran’s line, noted Chioma Nnadi, “has stood for inclusion since its inception; her shows never fail to celebrate diversity across race, gender, and body types.”
Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
“ ‘What will Raf do?’ ” has been the refrain since he signed on the dotted line last August,” observed Nicole Phelps who reported on Raf Simons debut, which found the designer exploring American identity from an outsider’s perspective. The collection included, quilting, denim, and a stars and stripes skirt.
Dakota Johnson in Gucci at the 2017 Academy Awards.
Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear Max Mara
Halima Aden’s appearance on the runway in a burka was a first step in expanding ideals of beauty.
Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The iris on this dress was the last of those from a commission from the embroiderer Lesage by Yves Saint Laurent for his Spring 1988 couture collection dedicated to artists. (The irises appeared on a jacket after a painting by Vincent Van Gogh.) “It was a decidedly confident way to finish a just as confident show,” wrote Marc Holgate of Anthony Vaccarello’s use of this couture relic. “The past is here, but the past is also gone; the present is all that really matters.”
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Undercover Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Comme des Garçons Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
After working together for decades, in 2016 Vivienne Westwood renamed her Gold Label collection and handed over its reins to her husband Andreas Kronthaler. The next year he cast his wife in his show. “What better model for Westwood than Westwood?,” mused Luke Leitch.
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Demna Gvsalaia’s goals at Vetements and Balenciaga are distinct. For the latter he’s chasing modern sophistication. “I like ease and wearability,” he told Sarah Mower. “These words nonchalance and attitude—I don’t know what the new synonyms are for them, but that’s it.”
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Sacai Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
The upbeat Stella McCartney show provided a rousing close to the Fall season, a karaoke dance party. On the song list: George Michael’s “Faith,” “All You Need Is Love” by the Beatles, and “Brujas” by Princess Nokia.
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Nicolas Ghesquière was the first designer to present a collection within the Louvre, at the museum’s invitation: “Being in the Louvre where everyone is welcome, where there is no limit of culture, of nationality, is a strong message,” he said.
Among those most on theme for the Met’s celebration of Rei Kawakubo, the iconoclastic force behind Comme des Garçons, was Rihanna.
Proenza Schouler Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Four Americans decided to present their Spring 2018 collections during the Fall 2017 couture week. Two of them were Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler. Joining them were Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy.
Rodarte Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Iris Van Herpen Fall 2017 Couture
The musical accompaniment to Iris Van Hepren’s 10th anniversary show was provided by a five-piece group from Denmark called Between Music, who sing and play their instruments submerged in water tanks.
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Fall 2017 Couture
Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Lea T and Andreja Pejić paved the way for a new generation of trans models like Ariel Nicholson Murtagh.
Matthew Adams Dolan Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Eckhaus Latta Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Maryam Nassir Zadeh Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Luar Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
The hero piece of Raul Lopez’s collection was a coat embroidered with Wu-Tang Clan’s lyrics, “Cash rules everything around me.”
Christopher Kane Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
The clothes Faustine Steinmetz presented in her debut runway presentation spoke to issues in fashion and the world at large, from logomania to the disintegration of peace and order.
Jeremy Scott for Moschino Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv; Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Prada Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Versace Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
For this collection, marking 20 years since Gianni Versace’s murder, Donatella Versace revived archival prints and broght the house down with a reunion of 1990s supermodels.
Photo: Getty Images
Francesco Risso for Marni Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Jacquemus Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Courtesy of Jacquemus
Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Koché Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Getty Images
Dries Van Noten Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
John Galliano for Maison Margiela Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Natacha Ramsay-Levi for Chloé Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Jonathan Anderson for Loewe Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv; Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Undercover Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Gypsy Sport Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Comme des Garçons Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / IndigitalImages.com; Marcus Tondo / IndigitalImages.com
Phoebe Philo for Céline Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim WestonArnold / Indigital.tv
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Courtesy of Faith Connexion
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Thom Browne Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
The starting point for Thom Browne’s first show in Paris, he told Chioma Nnadi, was “Two girls dreaming of unicorns and mermaids, and all the things that little girls dream of.”
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Marine Serre Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
“I want to engage,” Marine Serre told Mark Holgate at her mesmerizing debut collection.
Photo: Tanguy Poujol / Courtesy of Marine Serre
An Anglophile, Alessandro Michele found inspiration in the notorious Mitford family and Sir Elton John for Spring.
Alessandro Michele for Gucci Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
As epic as the brand’s open-air, Eiffel Tower location were these furry boots.
“Those are my old Levi’s, that’s my Kaepernick jersey, and that’s my grandmother’s crochet!” exclaimed Rio Uribe at the guerilla-style show he staged in Paris’s Place de la République. The most resourceful of designers, he created a dress out of paper posters peeled off the walls of the subway station below.
“It’s personal” said Phoebe Philo of her final collection for Céline, which was an emotional moment for her fans who related to the designer’s brand of chic: understated, refined, and tethered to everyday life without ever being mundane.
Who would have imagined that fashion designers were such soccer fans? Faith Connexion teamed up with Kappa, a label favored in the 1990s by the likes of Blur frontman, Damon Albarn.
Iris Van Herpen Fall 2017 Couture
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Fall 2017 Menswear
The Triple S was the ugliest, and best-selling, luxury sneaker of 2017.
Photo: Getty Images
Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior Spring 2017 Couture
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Matthew Adams Dolan Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: © Shawn Brackbill / Courtesy of Matthew Adams Dolan
Chromat Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / IndigitalImages.com
Beyoncé in a Peter Dundas dress and House of Malakai headpiece at the 2017 Grammys.
Photo: Getty Images
Reed Krakoff Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Vacquera Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: IndigitalImages.com
The immigration crisis at the Mexican border raised questions about American values and about just who gets to identify as a citizen.
Erdem Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / IndidgitalImages.com
Alessandro Michele for Gucci Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv; Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Photo: Getty Images
Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv