Demna Gvasalia for Vetements Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
The very first show Vogue Runway reviewed in 2010 contained the seeds of much of what was to come. Sadly, the industry wasn’t at that point welcoming to niche designers like Josephus Thimister, who self-funded this presentation, and who was ahead of his time, upcycling before it was a “thing,” and showing men’s and womenswear at the same time off-schedule. With his Belgian impulse towards decostruction, Thimister stipped the preciousness from the couture. His instincts, noted Sarah Mower at the time, were in line with “the growing feeling that it’s time for something less dressy in fashion.”
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Demna Gvasalia for Vetements Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Giambattista Valli
Spring 2018 Couture
Giambattista Valli
Spring 2018 Couture
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Zendaya Coleman at the 2018 Academy Awards in Giambattista Valli.
Zendaya Coleman at the 2018 Academy Awards in Giambattista Valli.
Photo: Getty Images
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Spring 2018 Couture
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Spring 2018 Couture
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
John Galliano for Maison Margiela Spring 2018 Couture
John Galliano for Maison Margiela Spring 2018 Couture
Photo: Giovanni Giannoni / Courtesy of Maison Margiela
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Spring 2018 Couture
Frances McDormand in Valentino Couture at the 2018 Met Gala.
Photo: Getty Images
Frances McDormand in Valentino Couture at the 2018 Met Gala.
Photo: Getty Images
Frances McDormand in Valentino Couture at the 2018 Met Gala.
For Jenna Lyons, and the influencers who followed her, fashion was all about the high-low mix.
A.F. Vandevorst Spring 2018 Couture
Photo: Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Tory Burch Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Tory Burch Fall 2018
Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Pyer Moss Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Pyer Moss Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Carolina Herrera Fall 2018
Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
Carolina Herrera Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Carolina Herrera Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Rick Owens Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Getty Images
Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Vaquera Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Vaquera Fall 2018
Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Marc Jacobs Fall 2018
Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Marc Jacobs Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Bode Fall
2018 Menswear
Photo: Andrew Jacobs / Courtesy of Bode
Matty Bovan Fall 2018
Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Shaun James Cox / Courtesy of Matty Bovan
Matty Bovan Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Christopher Bailey for Burberry Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Christopher Bailey for Burberry Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Christopher Kane Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Indigital.tv
The last works of a Renaissance man. Eighty percent of this collection was finished before Lee McQueen took his own life. “He wanted to get back to the handcraft he loved, and the things that are being lost in the making of fashion,” Sarh Burton told Sarah Mower. “He was looking at the art of the Dark Ages, but finding light and beauty in it.”
Richard Quinn Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Getty Images
Richard Quinn Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Moncler 1 Pierpaolo Piccioli Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Courtesy of Moncler 1 Pierpaolo Piccioli
Moncler 1 Pierpaolo Piccioli Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Alessandro Michele for Gucci Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Alessandro Michele for Gucci Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Francesco Risso for Marni Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Prada Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Marine Serre Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Zendaya Coleman for TommyNow Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Miu Miu Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Rihanna in Maison Margiela Couture at the 2018 Met Gala.
Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton Spring 2019 Menswear
Prada Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
Francesco Risso for Marni Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Marine Serre Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Maria Grazia Chiuri for Christian Dior Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Julien Dossena for Paco Rabbane Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Having moved his show back to New York from Paris, the designer made like the all-American his is: ordering take-out and flipping the bird.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Zendaya Coleman for Tommy Now Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com
Undercover Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Yohji Yamamoto Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
Altuzarra Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear Models wearing shirts and shorts bearing the logo or phone number of the World Food Programme walked a graffitied strewn runway. In addition to proceeds from the clothes, the brand made a $250,000 donation to the United Nations charity. “You see,”Demna Gvasalia told Sarah Mower, “I don’t want to be just a T-shirt-and-hoodie man. We sell them.
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Ready-to-Wear Fall 2018
Having gone as far as possible with glitz, Christopher Decarnin’s glamified grunge, which was arguably the most resonant of 1990s trends.
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Miu Miu Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
Jordan Roth in Givenchy Couture at the 2018 Met Gala.
Photo: Getty Images
Rihanna in Maison Margiela Couture at the 2018 Met Gala.
Photo: Getty Images
Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton Spring 2019 Menswear
Photo: Getty Images
Social media disrupted fashion as we knew it. Having observed people taking in runwayshows through their phones, John Galliano addressed that new development head on.He asked audience members to turn their cameras to flash. The result, reported Sarah Mower, was “each capturing their own images of fabrics as they strobed and refractedinto high-tech prismatic rainbows as they moved. ‘Freezing the glamour of the accidental, the magical moment,’ Galliano called it.’ ”
To mark their brand’s 20th anniversary, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx sent out onelook from each of their past 40 collections.
Kerby Jean-Raymond showed a collection inspired by black cowboys of the 19thcentury to the accompaniment of a gospel choir singing uplifting anthems of black empowerment.
Thirty-eight years after founding her brand, Carolina Herrera handed creative direction to Wes Gordon and took her last bow following a finale of models in white shirts and ball skirts, her signature look.
Carolina Herrera Fall 2018
Ready-to-Wear
Thirty-eight years after founding her brand, Carolina Herrera handed creative direction to Wes Gordon and took her last bow following a finale of models in white shirts and ball skirts, her signature look.
By the time Raf Simons and his team were finished turning the American Stock Exchange into the set for the Fall 2018 show, Wall Street seemed as remote as Oz. Simons and co. transformed the space, reported Nicole Phelps, “into a hallucinatory farm scene, complete with barn simulacra covered in Andy Warhol photographs, Sterling Ruby sculptures hanging from the scaffolding, and popcorn half a foot deep.”
The designers behind this indie label
paid homage to a quartet of their design heroes—Vivienne Westwood,
Miguel Adrover, Andre Walker, and Martin Margiela—by printing their
portraits on white shirt dresses.
Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton Spring 2019 Menswear
Kim Jones for Dior Men Spring 2019 Menswear
Kim Jones for Dior Men Spring 2019 Menswear
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Fall 2018 Couture
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Fall 2018 Couture
Rodarte Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Pyer Moss Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Ralph Lauren Collection Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Telfar Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
The Row Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Gypsy Sport Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Gabriela Hearst Spring 2019
Marc Jacobs Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Mary Katrantzou Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Gareth Pugh Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Victoria Beckham Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Riccardo Tisci for Burberry Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Erdem Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Moncler 5 Craig Green
Prada Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Versace Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Missoni Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Alessandro Michele for Gucci Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Julien Dossena for Paco Rabanne Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Rick Owens Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis Grunge Collection Reissue
A$AP Rocky at the 2018 LACMA Art + Film Gala.
Christopher Bailey’s last collection for Burberry was a celebratory one. The houes’s signature plaid was mixed with the rainbow stripes symbolizing gay pride and the company made a large donation to youth charities supporting LGBTQIA+ rights and mental health. Bravo.
It seems the British youth are alright. Queen Elizabeth II made her London Fashion Week debut at Richard Quinn’s show, after which she awarded him the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. The designer paid tribute to Her Majesty with scarf prints that referenced those she often wears at Balmoral.
Remo Ruffini relaunched his Moncler brand with the Genius Group, a program of collaborations with designers that roll out monthly to address new buying patterns, including the popular, get-it-while-you-can “drop.”
Sudanese model Anok Yai made history when she opened the Prada show; becoming the first black woman since Naomi Campbell, some 20 years earlier, to do so.
Tommy Hilfiger teamed up with the style star Zendaya on a collection that paid tribute to the women of color who paved the way for the young actor’s success. “This is really a celebration of them, a way to say: ‘Thank you; I see you,’ ” the actress told Vogue. There was no missing Pat Cleveland’s dramatic walk, nor Grace Jones in a Lurex bodysuit.
Do you believe in magic? Jun Takahashi seems to; a number of pieces in his Spring collection had patches for the Undercover School of Witchcraft. His primary focus here was a celebration of youth via rethought classics, some preppy (blazers), others sporty (track suits). Raincoats and boots had slogans that read We Are Infinite and Total Youth.
The designer’s Cubist collection was dedicated to his great friend Azzedine Alaïa, who died in November 2017.
Maybe one of the reasons menswear became so exciting is because there are still rules tobe broken. Outside of the fashion world, for example, a man in a skirt or a dress will still turn heads. As men experimented with garments, they also explored categories often associated with women. Jordan Roth’s Met Gala get-up was couture.
Photo: Shutterstock
Virgil Abloh became the first African-American man to helm a French luxury house when he became the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear. He stopped his victory lap after his debut to exchange a tearful hug with his friend and supporter Kanye West.
Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton Spring 2019 Menswear
Virgil Abloh became the first African-American man to helm a French luxury house when he became the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear. He stopped his victory lap after his debut to exchange a tearful hug with his friend and supporter Kanye West.
Kim Jones for Dior Men Spring 2019 Menswear
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Viktor & Rolf Fall 2018 Couture
Photo: Kim WestonArnold / Indigital.tv
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Fall 2018 Couture
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Fall 2018 Couture
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Fall 2018 Couture
Photo: Getty Images
Ralph Lauren Collection Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Pyer Moss Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Fashion is part of Kerby Jean-Raymond’s larger agenda, which is centered on celebrating the African-American experience by exploring its history as it relates to the present day. This show was presented in Brooklyn at Weeksville Heritage Center, one of the country’s first free-black communities, and featured prints, based on paintings commissioned from Derrick Adams that depicted, the designer told Chioma Nnadi,“just black people doing normal things.” Jean-Raymond also included a capsule with FUBU (For Us By Us), a brand he believes had been sidelined by being “considered urban, not fashion.”
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Rodarte Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Getty Images
Opening Ceremony Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
RuPaul’s Drag Race first aired in 2009, but by the late 2010s it was enjoying unprecedented success and bringing queer culture into mass culture. Humberto Leonand Carol Lim worked with one of the winners of the show, Sasha Velour, to organize a show in which all of the models and performers were LGBTQIA+ individuals, as were many of the crew.
Photo: Courtesy of Opening Ceremony
Photo: Courtesy of Telfar
Telfar Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Telfar Clemens, noted Chioma Nnadi, “has turned the traditional idea of a runway show into an immersive audio-visual experience. ‘We collaborate with artists to make original compositions each time,’ the designer explained. ‘In fact, I’d say the music has become just as important as the fashion.’ ”
Guest attending Kim Jones’s debut at Dior Men were greeted by an outsized Kaws Companion made of flowers. Much prettiness for the “new man” was sent down the runway.
Kim Jones for Dior Men Spring 2019 Menswear
Guest attending Kim Jones’s debut at Dior Men were greeted by an outsized Kaws Companion made of flowers. Much prettiness for the “new man” was sent down the runway.
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoering remade, in white, 25 of the hero looks they had created in as many years.
Ralph Lauren celebrated his brand’s 50th year with a show in by the Bethesda Fountainin Central Park that contained all of the tropes that he has made his signature—Western, collegiate, and Gatsby-style black tie, included.
The Row Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Courtesy of The Row
Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Raf Simons took his leave of Calvin Klein with a collection that referenced two American cinema classics: Jaws and The Graduate.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Gypsy Sport Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Gabriela Hearst Spring 2019
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Zoë Kravitz in Gabriella Hearst at the LACMA gala.
Photo: Getty Images
Marc Jacobs Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photographed by Corey Tenold
Mary Katrantzou Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
In a year of anniversaries Mary Katrantzou celebrated 10 years of color and print.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Gareth Pugh Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Gareth Pugh hosted a voguing ball in honor of his friend and mentor, the iconoclastic stylist and jewelry maker Judy Blame, who died in February 2018.
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Victoria Beckham Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
On the occasion of her 10th anniversary, Victoria Beckham brought her collection home to London.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Riccardo Tisci for Burberry Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Erdem Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Moncler 5 Craig Green
Photo: Courtesy of Moncler
Fendi Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Fendi brought back the baguette, Carrie Bradshaw’s favorite bag, this season. “I’ve seen on Instagram all the young kids wearing their mothers’ baguettes, so I thought, Well, maybe it’s time ,” said Silvia Venturini Fendi.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Prada Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Etro Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
This season marked the brand's 50th year.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Versace Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv
Missoni Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Four generations of Missonis were on hand for the company’s 65th anniversary celebration.
Photo: Courtesy of Missoni
Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Alessandro Michele for Gucci Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos; Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Julien Dossena for Paco Rabanne Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Rick Owens Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Ik Aldama / Indigital.tv
Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Ik Aldama / Indigital.tv
Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis Grunge Collection Reissue
Aimed at 1990s-obsessed millennials, the line-by-line reissue of Marc Jacobs’s divisive Spring 1993 Grunge collection for Perry Ellis isn’t a case of history repeating itself; rather it was a clever marketing strategy that played into the nostalgia that swept the industry in the late 2010s.
Photo: Juergen Teller / Courtesy of Marc Jacobs
A$AP Rocky at the 2018 LACMA Art + Film Gala.
Which came first the headscarf or “Babushka Boi”? The former. A$AP Rocky told Luke Leitch he first wore it to cover a scar and “it just looked dope, so I stuck with the aesthetic.”
Photo: Getty Images
Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino Spring 2018 Couture
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv