Dolomites

It might seem ridiculous to describe Italy’s Dolomite Mountains, along with the super-chic town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, as under the radar. The region's cinematic good looks have landed it multiple starring roles on the silver screen, not to mention designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site. But somehow, Cortina and the Dolomites have remained a bit of a secret — an if-you-know-you-know kind of destination for skiers and relaxation-seekers who return year after year for meters on meters of perfectly groomed trails and scenic surroundings. There couldn’t be a better time to visit: Next year, Cortina will join Milan to co-host the 2026 Winter Olympics, more than 70 years since last doing so in 1956. So, get ready to hit the slopes or at the very least, swaddle up in layers of cashmere for some of the most stylish and fun après-ski scenes in Europe.

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The Dolomites

Rifugios: Peaks of Gastronomy

In the Dolomites, three languages are spoken: the ancient Romance language of Ladin and modern German and Italian. This linguistic diversity reflects the historically shifting boundaries of the Austro-Hungarian empire and Italy, with the mountains serving as the boundary between the two regions. The isolated and difficult-to-access nature of the mountain towns not only meant that the front lines of World War I were fought along the Dolomites’ steep alpine paths, but that the ancient language of Ladin was able to be handed down from generation to generation, with relatively little change from century to century.

Gradient bar that spans from white to black.

Snowy mountain landscape with skiers on a slope in front of a wooden building, set against rugged peaks and a clear blue sky.

Let’s start with some numbers: The Dolomiti Superski area stretches 29 miles from east to west and 28 miles north to south and includes 12 ski resorts covering 29,652 acres of skiable terrain. There are 1,200 kilometers (or 750 miles) of groomed ski runs, with 450 lifts, covering a solid mix of beginner, intermediate, and advanced slopes, all available with one pass. Dolomiti Superski is a carving paradise and a dream for every level of skier. Beginners can base themselves at one resort, while intermediate and advanced skiers can join ski safaris, hosted by local guides, which lead groups from mountain to mountain and hut to hut. These multi-day adventures bring skiers down different runs every day, showing off the many different faces of the mountain.

Snowy mountain village with clustered buildings, winding roads, and snow-covered hills in the background.

Dolomiti Superski: It's All Downhill From Here

The variety of available ski experiences is vast: One can try the longest ski run in the world, going from Cortina d’Ampezzo to Alpe di Siusi for 28 miles, descending from the heights of the Cinque Torri and Lagazuoi,down to an alpine plateau, a trip that covers an elevation of 8,832 meters (about 28,976 feet), or approximately the same drop in elevation as the top of Mount Everest to sea level. For the less ambitious, have no fear that you’ll miss out on anything, as spectacular views greet skiers straight off the gondolas, even for the cruisiest of blue runs.

Snowy mountain landscape with a ski resort, including ski lifts, skiers, a small building, and snow-covered peaks under a clear blue sky.

Snow-covered landscape with a wooden and stone house in the foreground, surrounded by evergreen trees and rugged mountains under a clear blue sky.

In modern times, this means the best of Tyrolean and Veneto culture come together in the rifugios, or mountain huts, which are dotted across the peaks. In these huts, you’ll find simple lodging and amazing, gourmet meals – some even created by Michelin-starred chefs. These are the traditional spots for après-ski (or avant-ski) meals at lunch and dinner. The hearty spreads feel well-earned as the huts are generally only accessible by skiing straight to the door (and occasionally reachable via gondola and chairlift stops or snowcat rides) with ski racks in front of every door. Locavore cuisine is the focus at the rifugios, with dishes like speck (a cured, smoked, and seasoned ham from the Tyrol region), eggs, and potatoes; homemade pastas; canederli, or Tyrolean dumplings; polenta; heavenly apple strudels; and wine lists that marry the best of Italian and regional Alpine tastes. The rifugios celebrate "in vetta con gusto," or "at the peak with taste," referring both to the huts' splendid views and their delicious dishes. There are more than 1,000 rifugios in the Dolomites and the staff of Corcoran Magri Properties can help recommend their favorites, depending on which resort you’re visiting each day.

Snowy mountain landscape with a wooden building and observation deck filled with people, set against snow-covered peaks glowing in the light of sunrise or sunset.

Skier in a blue jacket and yellow pants descending a snowy mountain slope, with rocky, snow-covered peaks and scattered trees in the background under a partly cloudy sky.

The snowy slopes of Cortina d’Ampezzo served as the backdrop for two famously stylish films (among many others): 1963’s The Pink Panther and the 1981 James Bond caper For Your Eyes Only. The elegant stylings of 007 in his sheepskin jacket and Ferragamo boots and the fabulous ski (and après-ski) outfits of the Pink Panther cast — many designed by Yves Saint Laurent — could easily be worn today. There are probably quite a few original decades-old Gucci snowsuits hanging in the closets of long-time Cortina habitués, as mixing vintage pieces with newer performance gear is the key to Cortina style. If there’s no sciura — aka an elegant woman of Milan of a certain age — with a bursting wardrobe for you to borrow from, head to the main shopping street, Corso Italia. Outfit yourself from head to toe at branches of international sportwear brands including Patagonia, Montcler, and Colmar; seasonal luxury boutiques from the likes of Louis Vuitton and Dior; and department stores like La Cooperativa di Cortina, with seven floors of everything you could need, including their new bar and bistro, The Roof Cortina, which boasts an amazing view from its fourth floor perch.

Sprezzatura: Italian Mountain Style

Cortina is about a two-hour drive from the Venice airport. There’s also the option of Espresso Cadore, a special tourist sleeper train that launched at the end of 2023. Leaving Rome at 9:50 p.m. on a Friday evening and arriving in the Dolomites at 7:57 the next morning, Espresso Cadore is a throwback to the golden age of train travel. The sleeper trains, which are refurbished cars from the historic fleet of decommissioned cars from the 1980s and 1990s, are retro cool. Private or shared sleeper cars are available, and dinner and breakfast are included (plus a bar that’s open all night). This is a seasonal route, only available during certain winter and summer weeks and is expected to return for the 2026 Olympics.

Espresso Cadore: Overnight Train to the Dolomites

Bunny slopers have an incentive to work their way up to an intermediate level so they can go down the Hidden Valley red run, one of the most famous trails in the Dolomites, which starts with a panoramic view, passes by a frozen waterfall in the middle, and ends with a horse-drawn sleigh tow to the next lift or for a taxi ride back home. The Dolomites ski season opens in December — Cortina Fashion Weekend has traditionally been the kickoff — and stretches all the way into April, with 6,000 snow canons pumping out snow every day on every run. Though the weeks of Christmas and New Year are packed with skiers, experienced locals point to the weeks of mid-March as some of the best times to visit. In these late winter days, the mountains are quieter, but the days are longer, with skiers able to swoop down the slopes with the Dolomites’ famous pink sunsets, or alpenglow, in the background.

Picturesque town in a snowy valley with a tall clock tower church, surrounded by snow-covered mountains under a pinkish-purple sunrise or sunset sky.

Snow-covered log cabin with two pairs of skis and poles leaning against it, set against a backdrop of snowy mountains and a partly cloudy sky.

Snowy mountain landscape with ski lifts carrying people and skiers on the slope, set against tall, rugged peaks under a clear blue sky.

Wooden board on snow holding bread, prosciutto, cheese, cherry tomatoes, and wine, set against a snowy mountain backdrop.

Snow-covered mountain landscape at sunset with a glowing rocky peak on the left and a small wooden cabin in the foreground under a clear sky.

Skier in a red jacket descending a snow-covered mountain slope with rocky peaks in the background and ski markers along the path.

Nighttime view of a snow-covered town with illuminated buildings and a central church steeple, surrounded by trees and distant hills with scattered lights.

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Northern Italy’s magnificent Alpine region is trending as Europe’s hottest cold weather destination.

BY CLAIRE LUI

Cortina d'Ampezzo is the heart of the stylish Dolomite ski scene.

Nightly grooming means perfect corduroy runs every day.

Rifugio Lagazuoi, at an elevation of 2,752 meters, is the highest mountain hut in Cortina d'Amepezzo.

Enjoy and relax at a rifugio after a long day of skiing.

Sporty elegance is the hallmark of Alpine style on these fashionable slopes.

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