Beyond trends and time:
The evolution of Rioja's most recognisable face, from 1964 to today
In partnership with Bodegas Faustino
It was certainly beginning to feel a lot like Christmas when guests started arriving at Decanter’s Tasting suite for 2025’s final ‘Decanter Presents’ session, which featured a stellar line up from Bodegas Faustino.
The Rioja producer, one of the world’s most recognisable and longstanding wine brands, opened its library for an eye-opening, unique tasting – as enjoyable as it was educational – through six decades of its winemaking history.
Hosted by Carlos Moreno López, Faustino’s export manager, the session was a rare opportunity to learn about the evolution of Bodegas Faustino – and Rioja – in the second half of the twentieth century and the first decades of the twenty-first.
Each wine conveyed the singularity of its vintage as well as the stylistic and technological context of its decade.
This enabled guests to assess the characters that have shaped the timeless identity of Bodegas Faustino, allowing its wines to become classical representations of Rioja, while also understanding the changes that have allowed Faustino and its wines to remain relevant and respond to shifting challenges and demands both in the vineyards and in markets.
The first wine introduced by Moreno López – undoubtedly one of the evening’s highlights – transported guests to the year the Rolling Stones released their first album. In their glasses guests found a singular time capsule – Faustino I Gran Reserva 1964 – showing the passing of time with poise and grace. While tertiary characters dominated the aroma profile, the palate showed surprising vividness, preserving vibrant acid and hints of the original red fruit crunch.
This, together with the second wine poured, Faustino I Gran Reserva 1995, served as a prologue to one of the evening’s main themes: the ageworthiness of Faustino’s flagship wines and their ability to evolve in bottle while retaining the character of their vintage. They also spoke of a time when balance in the vineyards – mostly field blends, with other red and white varieties coplanted with Tempranillo – came regularly and naturally.
With more precision and better tools, Bodegas Faustino have been able to preserve the definition and liveliness that has long been one of the hallmarks of their Gran Reservas – and that can prove elusive in some of the most trying, unpredictable vintages
“
”
A lovely, classical traditional-method fizz that, having spent 18 months on its lees, harmoniously balances gentle nutty notes, leesy creaminess, lively zestiness and crunchy orchard fruit. The linear acid carries the quince, apple, nectarine and white peach fruit with ease, while also adding focus to the croissant and buttered toast underneath.
Alc 13% | Drink 2025-2028
Cava Brut
The nose might be dominated by tertiary characters but the palate in this 1964 Gran Reserva preserves outstanding purity, precision and vividness. A great showcase of how long-aged the best Riojas can be, marrying power with delicacy, robustness with drive. The tannins are delicate, fine and retain a citrus-drenched freshness. Toffee, tobacco, dried rose petals, pot pourri and orange zest hover over sour cherry, plum and dried cranberry. Lingers on the palate with a fine, long tail of blood orange, poached cherry and leather.
Alc 12.5% | Drink 2025-2026
Faustino I Gran Reserva 1964
Evoking an older style of Gran Reserva, with a focus on balance, energy and poise, there's a balsamic layer lifting the dense blackberry, plum and poached cherry fruit, with broody dried fig and prune at the core. Vivid and lively, with tingling cinnamon and nutmeg and salty liquorice lining the cedar, hazelnut shell and salted caramel. Long finish with lingering blackcurrant sprinkled with liquorice powder. Drinking beautifully now, but will still hold effortlessly for a few more years.
Alc 13.5% | Drink 2025-2028
Faustino I Gran Reserva 1995
Still with a good ten years ahead of it, this Gran Reserva has an alluring, broody depth to it, with herbal and spicy details dancing around the sour cherry, cassis and cranberry fruit, which explodes juicily on the mid palate. Underneath, there's a moreish layer of prune, fig and portobello mushrooms, cloaked in cedar, thyme, oregano and sage - all sprinkled liberally with salty liquorice and vanilla.
Alc 13.5% | Drink 2025-2035
Faustino I Gran Reserva 2001
Such a classical expression of what a Gran Reserva can be, with lovely detail and acid verve. Very nuanced coffee bean, tobacco leaves, dried cherries, liquorice and dried black olives woven into an harmonious mesh that rests easily on the palate. Delicious, juicy red cherry and the core. Long, smoky finish with an energetic zesty twist.
Alc 13.5% | Drink 2025-2038
Gran Faustino I Gran Reserva 2004
Poured from magnum, this has a seductive nose of sotobosque and forest floor, lifted by refreshing balsamic notes and oily, perfumed eucalyptus. The tannins are appealingly zesty, hemmed with blood orange juiciness and Earl Grey smokiness. A veil of white pepper, cinnamon and clove rests over the prune, fig, poached cherries and pomegranate at the core.
Alc 13.5% | Drink 2025-2040
Magnum Faustino I Gran Reserva 2011
Still very coiled, this will certainly benefit from a few more years to show its full potential. It is already showing, however, a well honed layering of dried tobacco leaves, coffee beans, liquorice root, prune and caramel, with elegantly fragrant Earl Grey and Assam playing in the background.
Alc 14% | Drink 2025-2036
Faustino I Gran Reserva 2016
A different side of Faustino, aged exclusively in new French oak, and with mouthwatering acidity underscored by smoky, nutty tannins. A glaze of salted caramel and liquorice coats the prune, blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. Cedar and camphor hover elegantly, while toast and hazelnut shell play in the background.
Alc 14% | Drink 2025-2032
Faustino Icon Gran Reserva 2017
Tasting Notes
Discover more at Bodegas Faustino
Event photography: Lola García Photography
Published Friday 19 December
Ruggeri wines are available in the UK from the Great Wine Co, imported by Enotria & Coe
Unpretentiously classical, this is an accomplished second release of Faustino's first (and so far only) white wine, deftly blending Viura with Chardonnay. Moreish blanched almonds, apricot, mango, pineapple, red apple and candied lemon fill the palate with generosity, lifted by refreshing salinity, vivid lemon zest and perfumed camphor. Long sweet-spiced finish with a tail of almond croissant and frangipane.
Alc 13% | Drink 2025-2035
Faustino I Blanco Gran Reserva 2020
Elegance and craftsmanship:
Discover Cava de Guarda Superior
Historical snapshots
If the two oldest vintages showed the wines’ ability to evolve and how they reward time and patience, their younger counterparts served to highlight the characteristics that build the foundations of longevity: well-honed tannins, flavour definition, deft oak integration and a firm acid line. Some of the wines on show were still seductively coiled, meaning that they will benefit from time in the cellar to reach their peak.
Today, the preservation of those essential characteristics cannot be taken for granted, especially against the backdrop of climate change. While guiding the masterclass attendees through the 2001, 2004, 2011 and 2016 bottlings, Moreno López explained the shifts in vineyard and cellar management that came with the new millennium – a function of technical evolution and increasing mechanisation as well as in response to challenging conditions.
With more precision and better tools, Bodegas Faustino have been able to preserve the definition and liveliness that has long been one of the hallmarks of their Gran Reservas – and that can prove elusive in some of the most trying, unpredictable vintages.
The quest for balance
Bodega Faustino’s staying power has been forged by combining a strong identity, unmoved by the ebb and flow of trends, with an ability to evolve. It’s a delicate balancing act that has allowed Faustino – the brand as well as its wines – to remain contemporary and relentlessly true to itself: as recognisable and reassuringly familiar as the image of the Rembrandt portrait shown on bottles since the 1960s.
Reflecting this ability and determination to evolve, the tasting wrapped up with two of Fautino’s latest additions to its portfolio: Icon Gran Reserva and Faustino I Blanco Gran Reserva. Matured exclusively in new French oak, the latter showed a different style glossier and more muscular. The white, meanwhile, was a favourite among the evening’s guests, who were impressed by its robust elegance, versatility, immediate appeal and affordability.
Forced to return to the cold, damp London evening, the guests left bolstered by festive cheer but also, and above all, the memory of a once-in-a-lifetime tasting experience.
Future classics
Carlos Moreno López, Faustino’s export manager and Ines Salpico, Decanter Regional editor for Spain
Beyond trends and time:
The evolution of Rioja's most recognisable face, from 1964 to today
In partnership with Bodegas Faustino
It was certainly beginning to feel a lot like Christmas when guests started arriving at Decanter’s Tasting suite for 2025’s final ‘Decanter Presents’ session, which featured a stellar line up from Bodegas Faustino.
The Rioja producer, one of the world’s most recognisable and longstanding wine brands, opened its library for an eye-opening, unique tasting – as enjoyable as it was educational – through six decades of its winemaking history.
Hosted by Carlos Moreno López, Faustino’s export manager, the session was a rare opportunity to learn about the evolution of Bodegas Faustino – and Rioja – in the second half of the twentieth century and the first decades of the twenty-first.
Each wine conveyed the singularity of its vintage as well as the stylistic and technological context of its decade.
This enabled guests to assess the characters that have shaped the timeless identity of Bodegas Faustino, allowing its wines to become classical representations of Rioja, while also understanding the changes that have allowed Faustino and its wines to remain relevant and respond to shifting challenges and demands both in the vineyards and in markets.
The first wine introduced by Moreno López – undoubtedly one of the evening’s highlights – transported guests to the year the Rolling Stones released their first album. In their glasses guests found a singular time capsule – Faustino I Gran Reserva 1964 – showing the passing of time with poise and grace. While tertiary characters dominated the aroma profile, the palate showed surprising vividness, preserving vibrant acid and hints of the original red fruit crunch.
This, together with the second wine poured, Faustino I Gran Reserva 1995, served as a prologue to one of the evening’s main themes: the ageworthiness of Faustino’s flagship wines and their ability to evolve in bottle while retaining the character of their vintage. They also spoke of a time when balance in the vineyards – mostly field blends, with other red and white varieties coplanted with Tempranillo – came regularly and naturally.
With more precision and better tools, Bodegas Faustino have been able to preserve the definition and liveliness that has long been one of the hallmarks of their Gran Reservas – and that can prove elusive in some of the most trying, unpredictable vintages
“
”
A lovely, classical traditional-method fizz that, having spent 18 months on its lees, harmoniously balances gentle nutty notes, leesy creaminess, lively zestiness and crunchy orchard fruit. The linear acid carries the quince, apple, nectarine and white peach fruit with ease, while also adding focus to the croissant and buttered toast underneath.
Alc 13% | Drink 2025-2028
Cava Brut
The nose might be dominated by tertiary characters but the palate in this 1964 Gran Reserva preserves outstanding purity, precision and vividness. A great showcase of how long-aged the best Riojas can be, marrying power with delicacy, robustness with drive. The tannins are delicate, fine and retain a citrus-drenched freshness. Toffee, tobacco, dried rose petals, pot pourri and orange zest hover over sour cherry, plum and dried cranberry. Lingers on the palate with a fine, long tail of blood orange, poached cherry and leather.
Alc 12.5% | Drink 2025-2026
Faustino I Gran Reserva 1964
Evoking an older style of Gran Reserva, with a focus on balance, energy and poise, there's a balsamic layer lifting the dense blackberry, plum and poached cherry fruit, with broody dried fig and prune at the core. Vivid and lively, with tingling cinnamon and nutmeg and salty liquorice lining the cedar, hazelnut shell and salted caramel. Long finish with lingering blackcurrant sprinkled with liquorice powder. Drinking beautifully now, but will still hold effortlessly for a few more years.
Alc 13.5% | Drink 2025-2028
Faustino I Gran Reserva 1995
Still with a good ten years ahead of it, this Gran Reserva has an alluring, broody depth to it, with herbal and spicy details dancing around the sour cherry, cassis and cranberry fruit, which explodes juicily on the mid palate. Underneath, there's a moreish layer of prune, fig and portobello mushrooms, cloaked in cedar, thyme, oregano and sage - all sprinkled liberally with salty liquorice and vanilla.
Alc 13.5% | Drink 2025-2035
Faustino I Gran Reserva 2001
Such a classical expression of what a Gran Reserva can be, with lovely detail and acid verve. Very nuanced coffee bean, tobacco leaves, dried cherries, liquorice and dried black olives woven into an harmonious mesh that rests easily on the palate. Delicious, juicy red cherry and the core. Long, smoky finish with an energetic zesty twist.
Alc 13.5% | Drink 2025-2038
Gran Faustino I Gran Reserva 2004
Poured from magnum, this has a seductive nose of sotobosque and forest floor, lifted by refreshing balsamic notes and oily, perfumed eucalyptus. The tannins are appealingly zesty, hemmed with blood orange juiciness and Earl Grey smokiness. A veil of white pepper, cinnamon and clove rests over the prune, fig, poached cherries and pomegranate at the core.
Alc 13.5% | Drink 2025-2040
Magnum Faustino I Gran Reserva 2011
Still very coiled, this will certainly benefit from a few more years to show its full potential. It is already showing, however, a well honed layering of dried tobacco leaves, coffee beans, liquorice root, prune and caramel, with elegantly fragrant Earl Grey and Assam playing in the background.
Alc 14% | Drink 2025-2036
Faustino I Gran Reserva 2016
A different side of Faustino, aged exclusively in new French oak, and with mouthwatering acidity underscored by smoky, nutty tannins. A glaze of salted caramel and liquorice coats the prune, blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. Cedar and camphor hover elegantly, while toast and hazelnut shell play in the background.
Alc 14% | Drink 2025-2032
Faustino Icon Gran Reserva 2017
Tasting Notes
Discover more at Bodegas Faustino
Event photography: Lola García Photography
Published Friday 19 December
Ruggeri wines are available in the UK from the Great Wine Co, imported by Enotria & Coe
Unpretentiously classical, this is an accomplished second release of Faustino's first (and so far only) white wine, deftly blending Viura with Chardonnay. Moreish blanched almonds, apricot, mango, pineapple, red apple and candied lemon fill the palate with generosity, lifted by refreshing salinity, vivid lemon zest and perfumed camphor. Long sweet-spiced finish with a tail of almond croissant and frangipane.
Alc 13% | Drink 2025-2035
Faustino I Blanco Gran Reserva 2020
Historical snapshots
If the two oldest vintages showed the wines’ ability to evolve and how they reward time and patience, their younger counterparts served to highlight the characteristics that build the foundations of longevity: well-honed tannins, flavour definition, deft oak integration and a firm acid line. Some of the wines on show were still seductively coiled, meaning that they will benefit from time in the cellar to reach their peak.
Today, the preservation of those essential characteristics cannot be taken for granted, especially against the backdrop of climate change. While guiding the masterclass attendees through the 2001, 2004, 2011 and 2016 bottlings, Moreno López explained the shifts in vineyard and cellar management that came with the new millennium – a function of technical evolution and increasing mechanisation as well as in response to challenging conditions.
With more precision and better tools, Bodegas Faustino have been able to preserve the definition and liveliness that has long been one of the hallmarks of their Gran Reservas – and that can prove elusive in some of the most trying, unpredictable vintages.
The quest for balance
Bodega Faustino’s staying power has been forged by combining a strong identity, unmoved by the ebb and flow of trends, with an ability to evolve. It’s a delicate balancing act that has allowed Faustino – the brand as well as its wines – to remain contemporary and relentlessly true to itself: as recognisable and reassuringly familiar as the image of the Rembrandt portrait shown on bottles since the 1960s.
Reflecting this ability and determination to evolve, the tasting wrapped up with two of Fautino’s latest additions to its portfolio: Icon Gran Reserva and Faustino I Blanco Gran Reserva. Matured exclusively in new French oak, the latter showed a different style glossier and more muscular. The white, meanwhile, was a favourite among the evening’s guests, who were impressed by its robust elegance, versatility, immediate appeal and affordability.
Forced to return to the cold, damp London evening, the guests left bolstered by festive cheer but also, and above all, the memory of a once-in-a-lifetime tasting experience.
Future classics
Carlos Moreno López, Faustino’s export manager and Ines Salpico, Decanter Regional editor for Spain