The sun has risen, you creak the bedroom
windows open and let the linen curtains blow
in the morning breeze. As you head down
OLYMPIA JCREW
WOMEN WHO WIN
Pelagia Kolotouros speaks in ideas as much as she does in silhouettes. Appointed Creative Design Director of Lacoste in 2023, the Greek-American designer has brought a slower and more studied sense of movement to the sports-driven brand – qualities that have seen her continually bridge the need for performance with top precision. With tenures in senior design roles at Adidas, Calvin Klein and The North Face, and better known for her lead in popular collaborations with Ivy Park and Pharrell Williams, she is uniquely equipped to understand the integral relationship between sports and style.
Since taking charge of the many collectives that make up Lacoste’s design outlook, Kolotouros has thoughtfully approached the vast archives and, more specifically, decided to reimagine the iconic crocodile emblem. Now, seen as both a recognisable badge and also a graphic provocation, it has been shapeshifting, deconstructed and even defiantly placed. With cool, genderless tailoring dominating the runways, streetwear references are making pieces both timeless and of-the-moment.
Welcome to Style Briefing, a deep dive into the groundbreaking labels redefining fashion. From exploring their history to showcasing the hardest working hero buys for your wardrobe, we decode not only the designer,
but their latest collection and signature style tribe.
Naturally, athleisure dominates the codes of Lacoste, but remember that this is a fashion brand with a prestigious place at Paris Fashion Week, too – there’s far more to the clothes than what first meets the eye. Case in point: deliberate nods to the founder, French tennis pro René Lacoste, reveal themselves in 1920s-photo prints of tennis players, and pleats reminiscent of vintage skorts.
Boxy silhouettes modernise sportier forms with architectural adjustments, while technical fabrics introduce versatility to streamlined tailoring and outerwear. Accessories unite Parisian elegance with the contemporary spirit of the brand, creating bold graphic prints for silks, croc-effect bags, racket-adorned tie-clips and even pleated handbags.
For Autumn/ Winter 2025, Kolotouros returns to the Roland-Garros stadium – but this season it’s less about matchpoint and more about the afterparty. Influenced by the founder’s transition from court to entrepreneur and socialite, the crisp clay-red ground evolves into a social salon that presents not only sportswear but wear for after sports.
Here, a slick remix of Lacoste’s codes are combined: clean, graphic silhouettes sliced between bias-cut tops, elongated polos-turned-dresses, and luxe double-faced knits. Pleated skirts move with purpose, while scarf dresses billow down the runway. Fluidity and form play against each other, with slouchy tech trousers and oversized puffers becoming clear hero pieces, while felted double-breasted blazers and A-line coats seek to present a winner’s uniform.
Textures naturally carry weight, too – think bouclé tweed, reflective nylon and layered embroidery. Performancewear flirts with softness, cashmere sits next to tech-shell, whilst knitwear is given a utilitarian uplift. Though colours follow a strict guideline, gender, as always, is blurred to ensure Lacoste continues to modernise the traditions of sportswear.
LACOSTE
The Game Changer
Unlike many of its contemporaries, Lacoste has managed to straddle both ready-to-wear and accessories, with both sides being equally desirable and accessible. The label’s quietly cool must-have Lenglen bag made a reappearance for AW25 in new sizes to fulfil your pleated needs; classic cable knits remain a champion no matter the season; and, most specifically, Lacoste’s outerwear options are set to be triumphant, futuristic staples for cooler months in the city.
£200
Short Carded Wool Dress
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There aren’t many labels that fashion insiders would be awaiting with bated breath to launch, but
Phoebe Philo’s eponymous brand was one of them. Of course, such is the power of Philo. It is a truth universally acknowledged that she redefined the modern woman’s aspiring wardrobe during her tenures at two iconic French houses: Chloé (2001 to 2006) and Céline (2008 to 2017). So much so that she has garnered a cult following of ‘Philophiles’. She announced her desire to launch her self-titled label in 2001, a bold and rare move in a climate where few designers are brave enough to do so. After much anticipation, the direct-to-consumer site finally launched in October 2023, with the backing of the Creative Director’s former employer, LVMH. The Philophiles were ready. Most of the collection sold out within the first 24 hours. A year later, Phoebe Philo is going from strength to strength, and is now stocked in several bricks-and-mortar stores, including Dover Street Market in London and Bergdorf Goodman in New York.
the DESIGNER
THE ICONS
It probably comes as no surprise, then, that the top sports stars are usually seen in Lacoste. From Venus Williams in a custom gown at the 2025 Met Ball to a long-standing ambassadorship with seven-time World No.1 Novak Djokovic, its legacy remains rooted in winners. Joining its long list of brand ambassadors are French actress Adèle Exarchopoulos and K-Pop’s Yujin An, who inject some stage presence into their campaigns, while Adrien Brody and Claire Danes are regularly among the show’s Front Row line-up. Lacoste, it seems, knows how to play the game – and win.
LACOSTE fan club
BRAND
STYLE BRIEFING
STYLE CODES
the COLLECTION
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WORDS: IMOGEN CLARK
senior Art Editor: Ana Opsina
CHIEF SUB EDITOR: NICOLA MOYNE
IMAGERY: LACOSTE
£50
Cotton Twill Cap
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£240
Small Lenglen Leather Bag
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£160
Long Pleated Waist Skirt
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£500
Double Breasted Virgin Wool Coat
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£20
Ribbed Cotton Socks
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‘A slick remix of Lacoste’s codes are combined: clean, graphic silhouettes sliced between bias-cut tops, elongated
polos-turned-dresses, and luxe double-faced knits’
‘Unlike many of its contemporaries, Lacoste has
managed to straddle both ready-to-wear and accessories,
with both sides being equally desirable and accessible’
‘Prada’s little sister brand has long become its own authority within the fashion sphere, leading the way as the hottest brand for three out of four Lyst Index quarterly reports’
It would be easy to distill Bottega Veneta down to the accessories – after all, it’s what the house is best known for. The ‘Sardine’ and ‘Andiamo’ bags, for example, have both become much-coveted (and much-copied) sensations from Blazy’s era. But it’s the clothes; the craftsmanship; and, above all, the world-building that really sets Blazy’s Bottega apart.
For his debut Autumn/Winter 2022 collection, the first look on the runway was a white vest and jeans. Except it wasn’t – both pieces were carefully constructed from nubuck leather, showcasing a level of skill and thoughtfulness that we have now come to expect from the designer.
STYLE nOTES
‘‘It’s the clothes; the craftsmanship; and, above all, the world-building that really sets Blazy’s Bottega apart’’
With her namesake label, Phoebe Philo is committed to responsible fashion, not just through her seasonless designs which don’t bow to trends. Her high quality designs are made in limited quantities to avoid overconsumption, and any waste materials are donated to fashion institutions. Use of plastic is kept to a minimum and packaging is re-used where possible. The designer works with a small number of suppliers across Europe, chosen for their craftsmanship and transparency. In terms of materials, no exotic skins or feathers are used, and she is moving to switching key fibres to certified options including wool, cotton and viscose, and is constantly working towards improving the traceability of her leather supply chain back to farm level to ensure high standards of animal welfare.
IMPACT
For Spring/Summer 2025, Blazy seated guests on animal-shaped bean bags – and immediately broke the internet. Manufactured by Zanotta and constructed from colourful leather, celebrities and editors alike sat on playful, nursery-style chairs that reflected the spirit of the collection. SS25, as written in the show notes, is a “refusal to put away childish things”, with oversized silhouettes evoking a sense of dressing up in adult clothing.
But the pieces were still incredibly chic. Power blazers, crisp shirts and asymmetric wrap skirts adorned models carrying bunches of flowers wrapped in brown paper, as though returning from a market. Looks were accented with metallic, animal-shaped brooches; deep tonal colours and textures providing a multi-faceted feast for the eyes. This continued into tumbling ruffled dresses, tasselled leather skirts and patterned knitwear.
The extremely wearable was balanced with the out-of-this-world, too. Zany fringed wigs and boas; violin bags in the house’s signature intrecciato leather; and crumpled, shrunken suits and trench coats inspired audiences to think outside of the box when it comes to being a grown-up. After all, why shouldn’t you carry a mermaid-printed shopping bag, wear fluffy heels with bunny ears or pair a glistening, matchstick-embellished shirt with a matching skirt?
The show notes asked guests: ‘Can you find power in sweetness?’ The answer was a resounding yes.
The collection
£4,210
Draped jacquard midi dress
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£425
Sardine oval sunglasses
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£1,080
Step metallic leather pumps
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£500
Virgin Wool Coat
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£ 1,620
Rana Large Brooch
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£ 6,090
Large Andiamo Bag
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Weaving sustainability, inclusion and conservation into every aspect of the brand, Lacoste spearheads with a ‘Durable Elegance’ strategy. In 2021, the brand strengthened its commitment to circular fashion by partnering with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which focuses on reducing environmental impact and prolonging product life. Beyond what you find on shelves, the Lacoste Foundation’s mission is to offer more than 100,000 children and young adults the opportunity to take part in 200 sports-education projects across the globe where access to programs like these isn’t as readily available.
With a crocodile as a logo, of course, nature plays a part in its ongoing outlook, too. In 2021, Lacoste collaborated with the IUCN for a Save Our Species limited-edition run of polos, where all profits were donated to ensure the survival of 10 critically endangered animals. Since then, its commitments have grown: across Lacoste’s website are options to buy specific pieces that correlate to aiding animal welfare.
THE IMPACT
‘From Venus Williams in a custom gown at the 2025 Met Ball to a long-standing ambassadorship with seven-time World No.1 Novak Djokovic, its legacy remains rooted in winners’
CLAiRE DANES
VENUS WILLIAMS
Novak Djokovic
Delilah Belle Hamlin
Adrien Brody, Amber Valletta and Honor Titus
‘Deliberate nods to the founder, French tennis pro
René Lacoste, reveal themselves in 1920s-photo prints of
tennis players, and pleats reminiscent of vintage skorts’
“Deliberate nods to the founder, French tennis pro René Lacoste, reveal themselves in 1920s-photo prints of tennis players, and pleats reminiscent of vintage skorts”
Unlike many of its contemporaries, Lacoste has managed to straddle both ready-to-wear and accessories, with both sides being equally desirable and accessible. The label’s quietly cool must-have Lenglen bag made a reappearance for AW25 in new sizes to fulfil your pleated needs; classic cable knits remain a champion no matter the season; and, most specifically, Lacoste’s outerwear options are set to be triumphant, futuristic staples for cooler months in the city.
The icons
“Unlike many of its contemporaries, Lacoste has managed to straddle both ready-to-wear and accessories, with both sides being equally desirable and accessible”
“Weaving sustainability, inclusion and conservation into every aspect of the brand, Lacoste spearheads with a ‘Durable
Elegance’ strategy”
LACOSTE fan club
THE MARIE CLAIRE EDIT
From Ivy Park to The North Face, Pelagia Kolotouros brings a bold new vision to Lacoste’s style legacy
Rooted in sport, elevated by Parisian polish — Lacoste’s design language is anything but basic
Lacoste Autumn/Winter 25 redefines with sport-inspired fashion can be
From the Lenglen bag to future-classic outerwear, Lacoste’s staples are made to last — and be loved
More than just fashion — Lacoste leads with purpose, progress and planet-first thinking
With global icons in its corner, Lacoste continues to serve style with star power
Pelagia Kolotouros speaks in ideas as much as she does in silhouettes. Appointed Creative Design Director of Lacoste in 2023, the Greek-American designer brings a studied sense of movement and precision to the brand – qualities that have seen her continually bridge performance with precision. With tenures in senior design roles at Adidas, Calvin Klein and The North Face, and better known for her lead in popular collaborations with Ivy Park and Pharrell Williams, she is uniquely equipped to understand the relationship between sports and style.
Since taking charge of the collectives that make up Lacoste’s design outlook, Kolotouros has thoughtfully approached the vast archives and, more specifically, reimagined the iconic crocodile emblem. Now, seen as a recognisable badge and also a graphic provocation, it has been shapeshifting, deconstructed and even defiantly placed. With cool, genderless tailoring dominating the runways, streetwear references are making pieces both timeless and of-the-moment.
From Ivy Park to The North Face, Pelagia Kolotouros brings a bold new vision to Lacoste’s style legacy.
Rooted in port, elevated by Parisian polis — Lacoste’s design language is anything but basic.
Lacoste Autumn / Winter 25 redefines
with sport-inspired fashion can be.
More than just fashion — Lacoste leads with purpose, progress and planet-first thinking.
‘Weaving sustainability, inclusion and conservation
into every aspect of the brand, Lacoste spearheads
with a “Durable Elegance” strategy’
From the Lenglen bag to future-classic outerwear, Lacoste’s staples are built to last — and be loved.