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The sun has risen, you creak the bedroom
windows open and let the linen curtains blow
in the morning breeze. As you head down
OLYMPIA JCREW
WOMEN WHO WIN
Few people hold quite a strong tenure in the fashion industry, like Miuccia Prada. The Italian fashion designer and businesswoman is known for her trailblazing designs that seamlessly blend traditional style with modern influence. Helming her family’s namesake brand, Prada, it wasn’t until 1992 that the designer delved into the creative vessel - that has since become a global phenomenon.
Named after her childhood nickname, ‘Miu Miu’, the brand exists for Prada to express unrestrained creativity in a more youthful and accessible approach. Exploring contemporary femininity that merges rebellion with seduction, there is no better way to differentiate Prada from Miu Miu than how the designer herself has put it, “Prada is who I am, Miu Miu is what I’d like to be.”
Welcome to Style Briefing, a deep dive into the groundbreaking labels redefining fashion. From exploring their history to showcasing the hardest working hero buys for your wardrobe, we decode not only the designer, but their latest collection and signature style tribe.
Miu Miu’s designs exude a cool-girl attitude. Moving away from conventional aesthetic imagery and designs, the brand strives to convey the essence of a truly modern woman. Incorporating bold prints, colourful fabrics, and playful silhouettes, Miu Miu’s design aesthetic has toppled over different themes whilst maintaining its key ethos. With its first-ever collection showcasing cowgirl-themed suede and fringed pieces, to its popular 1960s-inspired mini dresses, and lest we forget its sartorial prowess throughout the noughties.
It would be wrong to speak of Miu Miu’s designs without mentioning its extensive accessories range. From 1950s pin-up-inspired sunglasses to matelassé bags and notable bag charms, spotting one of these on the fashion set is definitely not a rare sight.
Individuality is the word for Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. In a time of social homogeny, the brand's goal was clear. Greeting guests with newspapers plastered with QR codes that led to various cultural criticism essays questioning authenticity in the modern age, it was clear that the brand had succeeded in its innuendo long before Nicole Kidman’s daughter, Sunday Rose, opened the show.
Following her was a staggering display of cotton slips, underwear as outerwear, tracksuits, and preppy-esque uniforms. Pieces that together may sound incongruent seamlessly working in unison to reveal a cohesive collection that celebrates autonomy and authenticity. Including a stand-out piece that involved Miuccia Prada delving into the brand’s archives and upcycling a 1960s-inspired print from its Spring/Summer 2005 collection into a trench coat. Of course, it also wouldn’t be a Miu Miu show without a star-studded cast. This season included Alexa Chung, William Defoe, Cara Delevingne, and Hilary Swank.
Accessories-wise, glittering chain belts, suede handbags, knitted stirrups, and peep-toe heels led the way for what would fast become cult favourites from the brand.
MIU MIU
The Global Phenomenon
Miu Miu’s USP is turning the seamingly mundane into highly covetable pieces. From its Spring/Summer 2024 micro bubble skirt to Autumn/Winter 2022’s satin ballet pumps and the brand’s most recent viral piece, its Regard glasses are frequently seen on A-listers such as Hailey Bieber. Often on magazine covers, social media, and our favourite street-style stars, Prada’s little sister brand has long become its own authority within the fashion sphere, leading the way as the hottest brand for three out of four Lyst Index quarterly reports.
When it comes to the top 10 most searched for fashion items in the world, both Miu Miu mainline collection and its various collaborations, including the cult New Balance trainers, are omnipresent.
Narrowing down a small selection of the must-have Miu Miu pieces seems like an impossible task. That said, we’re always up for a challenge. So, here’s our lust-worthy edit of investment pieces, including the perfect everyday bag, elevated trainers, perfect white T-shirt and the kilt you never knew you needed.
£350
sunglasses
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£5,800
Cabas Bag
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£855
Flare Trousers
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£900
Soft Pump 90
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£950
Tuxedo Shirt
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£1600
Asymmetric Dress
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‘Accessories-wise, glittering chain belts, suede handbags, knitted stirrups, and peep-toe heels led the way for what is on its way to being cult favourite items from the brand.’
There aren’t many labels that fashion insiders would be awaiting with bated breath to launch, but
Phoebe Philo’s eponymous brand was one of them. Of course, such is the power of Philo. It is a truth universally acknowledged that she redefined the modern woman’s aspiring wardrobe during her tenures at two iconic French houses: Chloé (2001 to 2006) and Céline (2008 to 2017). So much so that she has garnered a cult following of ‘Philophiles’. She announced her desire to launch her self-titled label in 2001, a bold and rare move in a climate where few designers are brave enough to do so. After much anticipation, the direct-to-consumer site finally launched in October 2023, with the backing of the Creative Director’s former employer, LVMH. The Philophiles were ready. Most of the collection sold out within the first 24 hours. A year later, Phoebe Philo is going from strength to strength, and is now stocked in several bricks-and-mortar stores, including Dover Street Market in London and Bergdorf Goodman in New York.
One could argue that Philo pioneered the ‘quiet luxury’ movement before the term was even coined. The Creative Director quite simply has a knack for creating seasonless, minimalist and expertly crafted pieces that the modern woman actually wants to wear (as opposed to the more red carpet-y designs that often grace the catwalk). At Chloé or Céline, she got rid of any stuffiness, replacing it with commercial pieces with a cool-girl twist that would go on to be copied many times over, especially when it came to accessories (the Paddingon and Luggage Tote spring to mind, and the Mum necklace from her own collection). She has taken this ethos into her own label, serving up highly wearable and elegant pieces with just a little bit of an edge and a little bit of glamour.
The designer launched her first collection in several drops throughout the past year, without fanfare or catwalk shows, in several drops throughout the past year (who needs marketing when you’ve got a fan base?). It encapsulates everything we love about the designer’s aesthetic, which infuses high-octane glamour with a touch of athleisure.
A perfect mix of casual and feminine, with a cheeky nod. There are chunky knits, high heels, trousers with zips all down the back, slouchy silhouettes, tailored pieces and of course, square toe shoes. While there are some winter and party pieces (a black wool coat, a red sequin dress), the collection is impressively seasonless, meaning you can easily mix and match outfits no matter the weather. We particularly love the relaxed tuxedo shirt, structured flared trousers and asymmetrical silk mini dress that can be worn over relaxed jeans during the day and black tights in the evening. There is no one like Philo to think of what a woman wants to wear in all scenarios. Accessories-wise, we’d be remiss not to mention the Mum necklace, an instant sell-out in both gold and silver, which you can set up an alert for, should there be a restock at any point (here’s hoping). As for bags, the Kit, Cabas and
Gig are all icons in the making. She recently teased her second collection, with some pieces available to shop in early 2025, and more to drop in the Spring, so get ready to pounce. From what we can see, the second drop is of the same ilk, with perhaps a touch more glamour.
Nothing haunts us like the things we didn’t buy, and it still hurts when we think of the Mum necklace. Available in 24-karat gold-plated sterling silver or sterling silver, it has effortlessly recreated the success of Phoebe’s bamboo-effect initial pendant for Céline. So much so that it sold out within 24 hours of the site going live. Typically tongue-in-cheek, the necklace has an alternating ‘M’ and ‘U’ design and is weighted to sit flat against the base of the neck.The perfect addition to a basic t-shirt or silk dress.
the DESIGNER
THE ICONS
THE MARIE CLAIRE EDIT
Besides its impressive retention of the top spot in luxury quarterly rankings, Miu Miu’s impact extends beyond its virality. For its fifth consecutive season, the brand continues to uphold one of its most popular initiatives: Miu Miu Upcycled. Becoming a key pillar for the brand, this initiative aligns with it's long term commitment to sustainability and circular design.
These collections work by upcycling vintage and archive garments to provide a limited series of pieces. In the most recent campaign Emma Corrin can be seen wearing expertly crafted pieces made from repurposed yarn, leather, and knits blending the past and present of Miu Miu.
THE IMPACT
Since its inception, Miu Miu has tapped celebrity It-girls to front its campaigns. From Drew Barrymore to Chloë Sevigny, the term ‘Miu Miu girls’ has quickly coined celebrities, influencers and fans of the brand who adopt the brand’s ethos and are amongst those who lust over the designs. Nowadays, the brand’s ambassadors and avid supporters range from actresses to models and singers who epitomise the fashionably nonchalant spirit of Miu Miu whilst adding their own essence. Some of these include Hailey Bieber, Sydney Sweeney, Alexa Chung, Olivia Dean and Doechii.
MIU MIU fan club
BRAND
BRAND
BRAND
BRAND
With her namesake label, Phoebe Philo is committed to responsible fashion, not just through her seasonless designs which don’t bow to trends. Her high quality designs are made in limited quantities to avoid overconsumption, and any waste materials are donated to fashion institutions. Use of plastic is kept to a minimum and packaging is re-used where possible. The designer works with a small number of suppliers across Europe, chosen for their craftsmanship and transparency. In terms of materials, no exotic skins or feathers are used, and she is moving to switching key fibres to certified options including wool, cotton and viscose, and is constantly working towards improving the traceability of her leather supply chain back to farm level to ensure high standards of animal welfare.
IMPACT
The Philophile gang naturally extends to celebrities, who have worn Philo’s designs from the ‘Old Céline’ and Chloé. So it’s no surprise that many cool girls snapped up her first collection, with the likes of Kendall Jenner, Chloe Sevigny and Hailey Bieber being some of the lucky shoppers fast enough to nab an item.
PHOELOPHILES
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£410
T-shirt
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ALL AVAILABLE AT miumiu.com
STYLE BRIEFING
STYLE NOTES
ALEXA CHUNG
ALE
OLIVIA DEAN
SYDNEY SWEENEY
Kendall Jenner
the COLLECTION
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Words: Sofia Piza
Art Editor: Ana Opsina
Sub Editor: Nicola Moyne
Images: Miu Miu and GettyIMAGES
£6,500
Skirt
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£2,050
Jacket
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£3,000
Bag
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£410
T-shirt
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£850
sneakers
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‘Prada’s little sister brand has long become its own authority within the fashion sphere, leading the way as the hottest brand for three out of four Lyst Index quarterly reports.’
‘Miu Miu is what I’d like to be.’
Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu’s Autumn/Winter 1997 show
‘Accessories-wise, glittering chain belts, suede handbags, knitted stirrups, and peep-toe heels led the way for what is on its way to being cult favourite items from the brand.’
ALL AVAILABLE AT miumiu.com
ALL AVAILABLE AT miumiu.com
AVAILABLE AT miumiu.com