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PHOTOGRAPHER: THERESA MARX
FASHION DIRECTOR: LILY RUSSO-BAH
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n a world marked by political turbulence and the rise of authoritarian governments threatening free speech and women’s rights, it’s no surprise that surrealism dominates the Spring/Summer 2025 collections. Labrum’s creative director, Foday Dumbuya, presented a short video featuring the voice of British rapper Ghetts, whose words – “designed by an immigrant; defined by resilience” – injected a shot of reality into the stunning show at Emirates Stadium. However, not all designers were so explicit. After all, surrealism, by
definition, rejects reality; it challenges imposed norms and seeks new modes of expression. Throughout history, this pursuit of creative freedom has often aligned with the fight for political freedom. Yet, the overall mood for SS25 – sartorially speaking, at least – remains uplifting. Gravity-defying garments were a hit, with a floating-hem coat at Loewe, a cloud-like dress crafted from recycled plastic bottles at Stella McCartney, and a resin-dipped chiffon top at Victoria Beckham that appeared almost moulded to the body. Meanwhile, voluminous, lightweight fabrics at Chloé created a sense of softness and ethereality – but, crucially, the women presenting them were strong and powerful.
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri enlisted Italian artist and archer Sagg Napoli to shoot arrows at a target while models walked in athletic outfits inspired by the warriors of ancient Greece. From seductive tailoring at Dolce & Gabbana to the return of khaki utility jackets, wardrobe staples have been reimagined this season, revitalised for 2025 with strong, sculpted silhouettes. Darker color palettes at Valentino, bewitching lace at McQueen and almost wing-like epaulettes at Del Core turned the romanticism of florals on its head. Tank tops emerged as one of the season’s unexpected hero items. And, of course, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons offered their take on algorithmic style, too: a vision of a woman who was unpredictable; a woman with the creative agency to be whoever she wanted to be.
Here, we bring these bold statements to life, capturing the power, movement and attitude of SS25
in our exclusive trends shoot. Because fashion isn’t just about what we wear – it’s about who we
choose to become.
There’s nothing groundbreaking about khaki in spring, but what gave Mugler’s utility look edge was the curved silhouette, which teamed structured shoulders
with a nipped-in waist. Elsewhere, at Gucci, funnel-neck jackets and
leather driving gloves came functional and polished.
by Mugler
FASHION: JACKET, £1,980, AND SKIRT, £460, MUGLER; BOOTS, £1,340, PARIS TEXAS
Spring/summer 2025: the trends to know
Editor in Chief: andrea thompson
Senior Art Editor: Ana Ospina
Producer: Clare Lazaro
Chief Sub-Editor: Nicola Moyne
STYLIST'S assistant: Sofia Piza
Model: Annije Dumax at Select Model Management
Hair stylist: Christos Bairabas
Make-up artist: Adam de Cruz at One Represents using Byredo
Nail artist: Cherrie Snow at Snow Creative using Nailberry
Photography assistants: Tom Porter, Jody Evans
Make-up assistant: Audrey McCarthy
Videographer: Pietro Birindelli
STRIPED CHAIR: BUCHANAN STUDIO
MARIE CLAIRE SPRING/SUMMER 2025 FASHION ISSUE
Surrealists
Take ShapE
Tanked Up
Sometimes the fashion gods send us a trend we can easily buy into at every price point – and this season, it’s the humble tank top. Stella McCartney’s ‘Mother’-emblazoned iteration also has the word ‘fucker’ written in small print, whilst Gucci trimmed its own tank with the house colours.
Not sure how to style it? Just copy and paste this take.
FASHION: TANK TOP, £410, AND TROUSERS, £1,220, GUCCI; HAT, £385, EMILY-LONDON
by GUCCI
by TOD'S
Languid
LEATHER
The rise of quiet luxury over the past few years has made leather a firm fixture on the catwalk. As a fashion house best known for its use of leather, Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini (formerly head designer at Bottega Veneta) showcased the brand’s expertise by creating a leather top and skirt that was so fluid it echoed the movement of sails. The inspiration? Dream-like Mediterranean summers captured by photographer Luigi Ghirri.
FASHION: GILET £3,010, AND SKIRT, £4,235, TOD’S; SHOES, POA, MISSONI
REBEL SPIRIT
Miuccia Prada, together with her co-creative director Raf Simons, created a collection that favours non-conformity – a backlash against the formulaic looks powered by social-media platforms. Prada’s woman was ladylike yet tough, with the show featuring clashing colours and a disruptive soundtrack. A hero look was knitted cerulean blue leggings layered under an ultra-lightweight chiffon skirt, but the overarching theme was just as clear: women are free to express themselves however they like.
FASHION: CHIFFON SKIRT, SUPERFINE COTTON TIGHTS, COTTON JUMPER, LEATHER BELT, POA, PRADA; SHOES, £720, STELLA MCCARTNEY
by PRADA
by Stella McCartney
SUBVERSION
In a challenging market, where profitability is often prioritised over creativity by big fashion houses, striking the right balance becomes tough for designers. Yet Stella McCartney has seamlessly tapped into the surrealist theme with this cloud-like dress, while also staying true to her focus on sustainability. How? It’s made entirely out of recycled plastic bottles.
FASHION: DRESS £3,500, STELLA MCCARTNEY; SHOES, £1,015, CASADEI
Pin Drop
Whether it’s Dolce & Gabbana’s tailored suit in a traditional pinstripe or Sacai’s silk wider-pinstripe blouse styled effortlessly with a low-slung skirt, the one rule is to wear pinstripe everywhere but the boardroom this spring.
FASHION: JACKET, £2,150, BRA, £975, TROUSERS, £875, AND SHOES, £850, DOLCE & GABBANA
by Dolce & Gabbana
by 3.1 Phillip Lim
Fringe Benefits
Yes, you can nod to the trend with a subtle fringed belt or bag, but the way to go this season is full drama. Look to the fringed evening gown at Roksanda or standout diamanté skirt at 3.1 Phillip Lim, juxtaposed with an oversized canvas shirt.
FASHION: DRESS, £680, AND SKIRT, POA, 3.1 PHILLIP LIM; SUNGLASSES, £250, THE ATTICO X LINDA FARROW; SHOES, £774, PARIS TEXAS
LINEAR THINKING
As the standout print of the season, stripes come in the form of contrasting bands at Bottega Veneta; preppy, deconstructed rugby lines at British heritage label Kent & Curwen; and super-brights at Missoni. Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton’s monochrome knit dress champions the true breadth of stripes’ appeal.
FASHION: TOP, £1,520, AND DRESS, £2,590, LOUIS VUITTON Collection
by Louis Vuitton
the
by DIOR
Sea Change
For the first time in years this default summer trend has been given a new lease of life. No.21 made a yellow fisherman’s raincoat one of the must-have outerwear pieces for spring, while Sacai’s oversized naval blazer with a gold crest breathed new energy into an otherwise classic piece. At Alaïa, there were tops and skirts made out of jumbo-sized white fishnets, while Proenza Schouler’s blue-and-white stripes were unusually placed on asymmetric knits with heavy fringed hemlines.
FASHION: BODYSUIT, £1,850, AND SHOES, £1,750, DIOR
by Zimmermann
Puff Piece
From crinolines at Junya Watanabe to floating hoop shapes at Loewe, when it comes to skirts this season, the bigger the better. Whether worn with a structured drop hem (Erdem) or at the waist with a large billowing train
of ruffles (Zimmermann), it’s all about the volume.
FASHION: BODYSUIT, £285, AND SKIRT, £1,800, ZIMMERMANN, SHOES, POA, STELLA MCCARTNEY X ADIDAS
n a world marked by political turbulence and the rise of authoritarian governments threatening free speech and women’s rights, it’s no surprise that surrealism dominates the Spring/Summer 2025 collections. Labrum’s
Take Shape
creative director, Foday Dumbuya, presented a short video featuring the voice of British rapper Ghetts, whose words – “designed by an immigrant; defined by resilience” – injected a shot of reality into the stunning show at Emirates Stadium. However, not all designers were so explicit. After all, surrealism, by definition, rejects reality; it challenges imposed norms and seeks new modes of expression. Throughout history, this pursuit of creative freedom has often aligned with the fight for political freedom. Yet, the overall mood for SS25 – sartorially speaking, at least – remains uplifting.
Gravity-defying garments were a hit, with a floating-hem coat at Loewe, a cloud-like dress crafted from recycled plastic bottles at Stella McCartney, and a resin-dipped chiffon top at Victoria Beckham that appeared almost moulded to the body. Meanwhile, voluminous, lightweight fabrics at Chloé created a sense of softness and ethereality – but, crucially, the women presenting them were strong and powerful.
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri enlisted Italian artist and archer Sagg Napoli to shoot arrows at a target while models walked in athletic outfits inspired by the warriors of ancient Greece. From seductive tailoring at Dolce & Gabbana to the return of khaki utility jackets, wardrobe staples have been reimagined this season, revitalised for 2025 with strong, sculpted silhouettes. Darker color palettes at Valentino, bewitching lace at McQueen and almost wing-like epaulettes at Del Core turned the romanticism of florals on its head. Tank tops emerged as one of the season’s unexpected hero items. And, of course, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons offered their take on algorithmic style, too: a vision of a woman who was unpredictable; a woman with the creative agency to be whoever she wanted to be.
Here, we bring these bold statements to life, capturing the power, movement and attitude of SS25 in our exclusive trends shoot. Because fashion isn’t just about what we wear – it’s about who we choose to become.
FASHION: JACKET, £1,980, AND SKIRT, £460, MUGLER;
BOOTS, £1,340, PARIS TEXAS
Take Shape
BY MUGLER
There’s nothing groundbreaking about khaki in
spring, but what gave Mugler’s utility look edge was the curved silhouette, which teamed structured shoulders with a nipped-in waist. Elsewhere, at Gucci, funnel-neck jackets and leather driving gloves
came functional and polished.
FASHION: JACKET, £1,980, AND SKIRT, £460, MUGLER;
BOOTS, £1,340, PARIS TEXAS
Take Shape
BY MUGLER
There’s nothing groundbreaking about khaki in
spring, but what gave Mugler’s utility look edge was the curved silhouette, which teamed structured shoulders with a nipped-in waist. Elsewhere, at Gucci, funnel-neck jackets and leather driving gloves
came functional and polished.
FASHION: TANK TOP, £410, AND TROUSERS, £1,220, GUCCI;
HAT, £385, EMILY-LONDON
Tanked Up
BY GUCCI
Sometimes the fashion gods send us a trend we can easily buy into at every price point – and this season, it’s the humble tank top. Stella McCartney’s ‘Mother’-emblazoned iteration also has the word ‘fucker’ written in small print, whilst Gucci trimmed its own tank with the house colours. Not sure how to style it? Just copy and paste this take.
FASHION: BODYSUIT, £285, AND SKIRT, £1,800, ZIMMERMANN,
SHOES, POA, STELLA MCCARTNEY X ADIDAS
Puff Piece
BY Zimmermann
From crinolines at Junya Watanabe to floating hoop shapes at Loewe, when it comes to skirts this season, the bigger the better. Whether worn with a
structured drop hem (Erdem) or at the waist with a large billowing train of ruffles (Zimmermann),
it’s all about the volume.
FASHION: BODYSUIT, £285, AND SKIRT, £1,800, ZIMMERMANN,
SHOES, POA, STELLA MCCARTNEY X ADIDAS
Puff Piece
BY Zimmermann
From crinolines at Junya Watanabe to floating hoop shapes at Loewe, when it comes to skirts this season, the bigger the better. Whether worn with a
structured drop hem (Erdem) or at the waist with a large billowing train of ruffles (Zimmermann),
it’s all about the volume.
FASHION: JBODYSUIT, £1,850, AND SHOES, £1,750, DIOR
Sea Change
BY DIOR
For the first time in years this default summer trend has been given a new lease of life. No.21 made a yellow fisherman’s raincoat one of the must-have outerwear pieces for spring, while Sacai’s oversized naval blazer with a gold crest breathed new energy into an otherwise classic piece. At Alaïa, there were tops and skirts made out of jumbo-sized white fishnets, while Proenza Schouler’s blue-and-white stripes were unusually placed on asymmetric knits with heavy fringed hemlines.
SUBVERSION
BOTTLED
FASHION: CHIFFON SKIRT, SUPERFINE COTTON TIGHTS, COTTON JUMPER,
LEATHER BELT, POA, PRADA; SHOES, £720, STELLA MCCARTNEY
REBEL SPIRIT
BY PRADA
Miuccia Prada, together with her co-creative director Raf Simons, created a collection that favours non-conformity – a backlash against the formulaic looks powered by social-media platforms. Prada’s woman was ladylike yet tough, with the show featuring clashing colours and a disruptive soundtrack. A hero look was knitted cerulean blue leggings layered under an ultra-lightweight chiffon skirt, but the overarching theme was just as clear: women are free to express themselves however they like.
FASHION: JACKET, £2,150, BRA, £975, TROUSERS, £875,
AND SHOES, £850, DOLCE & GABBANA
Pin Drop
BY Dolce & Gabbana
Whether it’s Dolce & Gabbana’s tailored suit in a traditional pinstripe or Sacai’s silk wider-pinstripe blouse styled effortlessly with a low-slung skirt,
the one rule is to wear pinstripe everywhere
but the boardroom this spring.
SHARE THIS STORY
FASHION: TOP, £1,520, AND DRESS, £2,590, LOUIS VUITTON
Linear Thinking
BY Louis Vuitton
As the standout print of the season, stripes come in the form of contrasting bands at Bottega Veneta; preppy, deconstructed rugby lines at British heritage label Kent & Curwen; and super-brights at Missoni. Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton’s monochrome knit dress champions the true breadth of stripes’ appeal.
Fashion Issue
THE
Fashion Issue
THE