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Photographer: Morgan Roberts
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emininity is no longer a singular narrative – it's a spectrum, a rebellion, a reclamation. Exploring the multiple faces of womanhood through the lens of the Autumn/Winter 2025 collections, a nuanced representation is unravelled: femininity is a layered language; sensual and cerebral, structured and undone, assertive yet intimate. The silhouettes are telling.
emininity is no longer a single narrative but a spectrum. The Autumn/Winter 2025 collections explore its many expressions; it is at once both sensual and cerebral, structured yet undone, assertive and intimate.
Designers have moved beyond simply dressing women — they question what it means to be one. Femininity isn’t a fixed aesthetic, it’s something to be inhabited, questioned and lived.
At Prada, proportions are never rigid but stand as gestures towards modern utility. Miu Miu celebrates subversive schoolgirl codes, taking up girlhood as an armour. Gucci – now under the direction of its in-house design team – finds tension in contrasts: pink versus red, leather against silk, the clash of tradition and modernity.
At Chloé and Louis Vuitton, transparency, layering and metallics evoke a deeper sensuality — one that feels cinematic and romantic. Diesel, meanwhile, has undertones of rebellion with a showcase of distressed tweed that feels oddly delicate.
Tory Burch embraces florals, transforming velvet into the uniform of modern heroines. Stella McCartney brings her usual fluidity to the fore with ruched, twisted silhouettes that move with the body rather than against it. While at Tod’s, masculinity is reinterpreted in soft tailoring delivered with a thoroughly feminine twist.
As this season's collections reveal, femininity isn’t about following one specific ideal, but about expressing it in your own unique way.
Nicolas Ghesquière’s woman isn’t daydreaming, for AW25 she’s time-travelling. Blurring Belle Époque with a sci-fi edge, futuristic armour is crafted from metallic shimmers and sheer pleats that capture the light. There may be nostalgia in the air this season, but it’s been disassembled rather than rehashed.
FASHION: BAG, £2,320, AND DRESS, FROM A SELECTION, BOTH LOUIS VUITTON. RING, £4,485, NADA GHAZAL
How nine designers reimagined femininity
for AUTUMN/WINTER 2025
Fashion Director: Lily Russo-Bah
WORDS: IMOGEN CLARK
SENIOR ART EDITOR: ANA OSPINA
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR: NICOLA MOYNE
PRODUCER: CLARE LAZARO
ASSISTANT: SOFIA PIZA
MODEL: SANTANA AT PREMIER
MAKE-UP ARTIST: KENTARO KONDO
HAIR STYLIST: PHILIPP HAUG
NAIL ARTIST: CHRISTIE HUSEYIN
VIDEOGRAPHER: NOOR-U-NISA KHAN
Photography Assistants: CHARLES HALL & LAUREN MEES
INTERN: ALICE TURNBULL
Modern Femininity
Timeless Appeal
BY Louis Vuitton
This season, 9 designers reimagined womanhood through a rebellious
lens and questioned conventional definitions of femininity
Quiet precision is the cornerstone of Prada’s current collection.
This season, Miuccia Prada finds beauty in simplicity, once again blurring the line between the utilitarian and the poetic, embracing muted ideals and celebrating individuality.
FASHION: DRESS, £4,150, BELT, £380, AND SHOES, £1,060, ALL PRADA. GLASSES, £260, LINDA FARROW
Decisive Composure
BY PRADA
Matching tweeds and classic tailoring take on a subversive slant
this season, with Glenn Martens pushing Diesel into the space where grit and glamour converge. Every thread is deliberately undone,
with heritage dismantled and edges left raw.
FASHION: COAT AND BOOTS, FROM A SELECTION, BOTH DIESEL; BAG, FERRAGAMO, £2,715. EARRINGS, £1,610, ANABELA CHAN
Softness Reimagined
BY DIESEL
Femininity can be layered – in more ways than one. And while
leather trousers deliver quiet confidence, intricate lace and faux fur bring a tactile richness to AW25 dressing. The power is in how
you wear the pieces and how you structure softness.
FASHION: COAT, £6,530, LINGERIE TOP, £950, FITTED TOP, £565, TROUSERS, £2,580, BAG, £1,380, NECKLACE, £515, RING, £365, BELT, £690, BRACELET, £425, AND CHARMS £775, ALL CHLOÉ. ROSE-GOLD BRACELET, £20,800, POMELLATO
Grown-Up Bohemia
BY CHLOE
There’s a deliberate nonchalance in the air. Let your lingerie peek
through with deliberation: it’s not a wardrobe malfunction but a manifesto.
Miuccia Prada leads the pack when it comes to unbuttoning femininity, treading the line between innocence and provocation, and revealing
sexual strength in thoughtful exposure.
FASHION: DRESS, £3,750, UNDERWEAR, £750, SOCKS £460, SHOES, £925, AND BAG, £1,520, ALL MIU MIU
Innocence Undone
BY MIU MIU
No theatrics, no frills, just whispers of quiet disruption.
Mix tones within palettes and measure elegance in contrasts.
Tod’s delivers formality with none of the fuss – how you wear your clothes speaks volumes when there’s intent.
FASHION: BLAZER, £395, E.L.V DENIM. SHIRT, £710, AND TROUSERS, £936, BOTH TOD’S. SHOES, £650, STELLA MCCARTNEY
Quiet Disruption
BY Tod’s
Fluid doesn’t mean fragile and no one showcases this better than Stella McCartney, with designs that enable women to move with grace between work and home. She is one of many radiating quiet power this season, as designers favour motion over structure and put the demands of a modern life and functionality at the fore. Yes, gowns still have a place in your day-to-day life.
FASHION: DRESS, £1,850, STELLA MCCARTNEY. SHOES, £870, FERRAGAMO. EARRINGS, £208, MISHO
Featherlight Form
BY Stella McCartney
Leaning into the dual qualities of leather, Gucci takes the traditional skirt-suit and presents it in bubblegum pink. Structured yet slouch-friendly, tailoring doesn’t need to be restrictive – this season, power is founded in comfort.
FASHION: CABAN, £5,210, TOP, £1,330, SKIRT, £2,920, AND BAG, £3,090, ALL GUCCI. SUNGLASSES, £235, LINDA FARROW. SHOES, £750, JIMMY CHOO
Laid-back Leather
BY GUCCI
Romance is adrift, with hints of florals delivering a sweetness to the season at Tory Burch. Opera gloves and velvet gowns bring a quiet drama that is equal parts debutante and futurist.
FASHION: DRESS, £1,400, TORY BURCH
Flirtatious Florals
BY Tory Burch
modern muse
Modern Femininity
Autumn/Winter 2025