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Photographer: Morgan Roberts
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emininity is no longer a singular narrative – it's a spectrum, a rebellion, a reclamation. Exploring the multiple faces of womanhood through the lens of the Autumn/Winter 2025 collections, a nuanced representation is unravelled: femininity is a layered language; sensual and cerebral, structured and undone, assertive yet intimate. The silhouettes are telling.
emininity is no longer a single narrative but a spectrum. The Autumn/Winter 2025 collections explore its many expressions; it is at once both sensual and cerebral, structured yet undone, assertive and intimate.
Designers have moved beyond simply dressing women — they question what it means to be one. Femininity isn’t a fixed aesthetic, it’s something to be inhabited, questioned and lived.
At Prada, proportions are never rigid but stand as gestures towards modern utility. Miu Miu celebrates subversive schoolgirl codes, taking up girlhood as an armour. Gucci – now under the direction of its in-house design team – finds tension in contrasts: pink versus red, leather against silk, the clash of tradition and modernity.
At Chloé and Louis Vuitton, transparency, layering and metallics evoke a deeper sensuality — one that feels cinematic and romantic. Diesel, meanwhile, has undertones of rebellion with a showcase of distressed tweed that feels oddly delicate.
Tory Burch embraces florals, transforming velvet into the uniform of modern heroines. Stella McCartney brings her usual fluidity to the fore with ruched, twisted silhouettes that move with the body rather than against it. While at Tod’s, masculinity is reinterpreted in soft tailoring delivered with a thoroughly feminine twist.
As this season's collections reveal, femininity isn’t about following one specific ideal, but about expressing it in your own unique way.
Nicolas Ghesquière’s woman isn’t daydreaming, for AW25 she’s time-travelling. Blurring Belle Époque with a sci-fi edge, futuristic armour is crafted from metallic shimmers and sheer pleats that capture the light. There may be nostalgia in the air this season, but it’s been disassembled rather than rehashed.
FASHION: BAG, £2,320, AND DRESS, FROM A SELECTION, BOTH LOUIS VUITTON. RING, £4,485, NADA GHAZAL
How nine designers reimagined femininity
for AUTUMN/WINTER 2025
Fashion Director: Lily Russo-Bah
WORDS: IMOGEN CLARK
SENIOR ART EDITOR: ANA OSPINA
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR: NICOLA MOYNE
PRODUCER: CLARE LAZARO
ASSISTANT: SOFIA PIZA
MODEL: SANTANA AT PREMIER
MAKE-UP ARTIST: KENTARO KONDO
HAIR STYLIST: PHILIPP HAUG
NAIL ARTIST: CHRISTIE HUSEYIN
VIDEOGRAPHER: NOOR-U-NISA KHAN
Photography Assistants: CHARLES HALL & LAUREN MEES
INTERN: ALICE TURNBULL
Modern Femininity
Timeless Appeal
n a world marked by political turbulence and the rise of authoritarian governments threatening free speech and women’s rights, it’s no surprise that surrealism dominates the Spring/Summer 2025 collections. Labrum’s
creative director, Foday Dumbuya, presented a short video featuring the voice of British rapper Ghetts, whose words – “designed by an immigrant; defined by resilience” – injected a shot of reality into the stunning show at Emirates Stadium. However, not all designers were so explicit. After all, surrealism, by definition, rejects reality; it challenges imposed norms and seeks new modes of expression. Throughout history, this pursuit of creative freedom has often aligned with the fight for political freedom. Yet, the overall mood for SS25 – sartorially speaking, at least – remains uplifting.
Gravity-defying garments were a hit, with a floating-hem coat at Loewe, a cloud-like dress crafted from recycled plastic bottles at Stella McCartney, and a resin-dipped chiffon top at Victoria Beckham that appeared almost moulded to the body. Meanwhile, voluminous, lightweight fabrics at Chloé created a sense of softness and ethereality – but, crucially, the women presenting them were strong and powerful.
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri enlisted Italian artist and archer Sagg Napoli to shoot arrows at a target while models walked in athletic outfits inspired by the warriors of ancient Greece. From seductive tailoring at Dolce & Gabbana to the return of khaki utility jackets, wardrobe staples have been reimagined this season, revitalised for 2025 with strong, sculpted silhouettes. Darker color palettes at Valentino, bewitching lace at McQueen and almost wing-like epaulettes at Del Core turned the romanticism of florals on its head. Tank tops emerged as one of the season’s unexpected hero items. And, of course, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons offered their take on algorithmic style, too: a vision of a woman who was unpredictable; a woman with the creative agency to be whoever she wanted to be.
Here, we bring these bold statements to life, capturing the power, movement and attitude of SS25 in our exclusive trends shoot. Because fashion isn’t just about what we wear – it’s about who we choose to become.
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BY Louis Vuitton
This season, 9 designers reimagined womanhood through a rebellious
lens and questioned conventional definitions of femininity
Quiet precision is the cornerstone of Prada’s current collection.
This season, Miuccia Prada finds beauty in simplicity, once again blurring the line between the utilitarian and the poetic, embracing muted ideals and celebrating individuality.
FASHION: DRESS, £4,150, BELT, £380, AND SHOES, £1,060, ALL PRADA. GLASSES, £260, LINDA FARROW
Decisive Composure
BY PRADA
Matching tweeds and classic tailoring take on a subversive slant
this season, with Glenn Martens pushing Diesel into the space where grit and glamour converge. Every thread is deliberately undone,
with heritage dismantled and edges left raw.
FASHION: COAT AND BOOTS, FROM A SELECTION, BOTH DIESEL; BAG, FERRAGAMO, £2,715. EARRINGS, £1,610, ANABELA CHAN
Softness Reimagined
BY DIESEL
Femininity can be layered – in more ways than one. And while
leather trousers deliver quiet confidence, intricate lace and faux fur bring a tactile richness to AW25 dressing. The power is in how
you wear the pieces and how you structure softness.
FASHION: COAT, £6,530, LINGERIE TOP, £950, FITTED TOP, £565, TROUSERS, £2,580, BAG, £1,380, NECKLACE, £515, RING, £365, BELT, £690, BRACELET, £425, AND CHARMS £775, ALL CHLOÉ. ROSE-GOLD BRACELET, £20,800, POMELLATO
Grown-Up Bohemia
BY CHLOE
There’s a deliberate nonchalance in the air. Let your lingerie peek
through with deliberation: it’s not a wardrobe malfunction but a manifesto.
Miuccia Prada leads the pack when it comes to unbuttoning femininity, treading the line between innocence and provocation, and revealing
sexual strength in thoughtful exposure.
FASHION: DRESS, £3,750, UNDERWEAR, £750, SOCKS £460, SHOES, £925, AND BAG, £1,520, ALL MIU MIU
Innocence Undone
BY MIU MIU
No theatrics, no frills, just whispers of quiet disruption.
Mix tones within palettes and measure elegance in contrasts.
Tod’s delivers formality with none of the fuss – how you wear your clothes speaks volumes when there’s intent.
FASHION: BLAZER, £395, E.L.V DENIM. SHIRT, £710, AND TROUSERS, £936, BOTH TOD’S. SHOES, £650, STELLA MCCARTNEY
Quiet Disruption
BY Tod’s
Fluid doesn’t mean fragile and no one showcases this better than Stella McCartney, with designs that enable women to move with grace between work and home. She is one of many radiating quiet power this season, as designers favour motion over structure and put the demands of a modern life and functionality at the fore. Yes, gowns still have a place in your day-to-day life.
FASHION: DRESS, £1,850, STELLA MCCARTNEY. SHOES, £870, FERRAGAMO. EARRINGS, £208, MISHO
Featherlight Form
BY Stella McCartney
Leaning into the dual qualities of leather, Gucci takes the traditional skirt-suit and presents it in bubblegum pink. Structured yet slouch-friendly, tailoring doesn’t need to be restrictive – this season, power is founded in comfort.
FASHION: CABAN, £5,210, TOP, £1,330, SKIRT, £2,920, AND BAG, £3,090, ALL GUCCI. SUNGLASSES, £235, LINDA FARROW. SHOES, £750, JIMMY CHOO
Laid-back Leather
BY GUCCI
Romance is adrift, with hints of florals delivering a sweetness to the season at Tory Burch. Opera gloves and velvet gowns bring a quiet drama that is equal parts debutante and futurist.
FASHION: DRESS, £1,400, TORY BURCH
Flirtatious Florals
BY Tory Burch
modern muse
F
Nicolas Ghesquière’s woman isn’t daydreaming,
she’s time-travelling for AW25. Blurring Belle Époque with sci-fi edge, a futuristic armour is crafted from metallic shimmers and sheer pleats that capture the light. There's nostalgia in the air this season, but it’s been disassembled rather than repeated. Elsewhere, Loewe took to surreal draping for Jonathan Anderson’s final collection, where womanhood was represented
in trompe l’oeil craftsmanship.
Timeless Appeal
BY PRADA
FASHION: BAG, £2,320, AND DRESS, FROM A SELECTION,
BOTH LOUIS VUITTON. RING, £4,485, NADA GHAZAL
Quiet precision is the cornerstone of Prada’s AW25 collection, which showcases its beauty in simplicity. Whilst socks and sandals have been argued as a fashion faux-pas for years, socks and heels have dominated runways for the past decade. This season, Miuccia Prada once again blurs the line between utilitarian and poetic, finding beauty in more muted ideals.
Doubling down on pragmatism, too, is Veronica Leoni’s collection for Calvin Klein, which brought a similar tone to New York, while Jil Sander
delivered refined restraint.
Decisive Composure
BY Chloé
FASHION: DRESS, £4,150, BELT, £380, AND SHOES, £1,060,
ALL PRADA. GLASSES, £260, LINDA FARROW
Femininity can be layered – literally and emotionally, and while leather trousers bring a quiet confidence, intricate lace and faux fur add a tactile richness to AW25. The power is in how you wear the pieces and how you structure softness. Done well, this
approach brings bohemian restraint to the season. Case in point: David Koma intertwined tactile twists at Blumarine, while Alexander McQueen added extreme volume to duality.
Grown-Up Bohemia
BY Stella McCartney
FASHION: COAT, £6,530, LINGERIE TOP, £950, FITTED TOP, £565, TROUSERS, £2,580, BAG, £1,380, NECKLACE, £515, RING, £365, BELT, £690, BRACELET, £425, AND CHARMS £775, ALL CHLOÉ. ROSE-GOLD BRACELET, £20,800, POMELLATO
Fluidity doesn’t mean fragility, and no one showcases this better than Stella McCartney. Focused on designing for women who move with grace between work and home, fabric follows instinct. Brands like Chloé and The Row have echoed this quiet power that favours motion over structure, putting the demands of a modern lifestyle at the forefront of functionality. Gowns can still find their way into your day-to-day life – you just need to find the one.
Featherlight Form
BY MIU MIU
FASHION: DRESS, £1,850, STELLA MCCARTNEY. SHOES, £870, FERRAGAMO. EARRINGS, £208, MISHO
Fluidity doesn’t mean fragility, and no one showcases this better than Stella McCartney. Focused on designing for women who move with grace between work and home, fabric follows instinct. Brands like Chloé and The Row have echoed this quiet power that favours motion over structure, putting the demands of a modern lifestyle at the forefront of functionality. Gowns can still find their way into your day-to-day life – you just need to find the one.
Featherlight Form
BY TOD'S
FASHION: DRESS, £1,850, STELLA MCCARTNEY. SHOES, £870, FERRAGAMO. EARRINGS, £208, MISHO
Fluidity doesn’t mean fragility, and no one showcases this better than Stella McCartney. Focused on designing for women who move with grace between work and home, fabric follows instinct. Brands like Chloé and The Row have echoed this quiet power that favours motion over structure, putting the demands of a modern lifestyle at the forefront of functionality. Gowns can still find their way into your day-to-day life – you just need to find the one.
Featherlight Form
BY DIESEL
FASHION: DRESS, £1,850, STELLA MCCARTNEY. SHOES, £870, FERRAGAMO. EARRINGS, £208, MISHO
No theatrics, no frills, just whispers of quiet disruption. Mix tonals within palettes and measure elegance in contrasts. Tod’s delivers formality without the performance, showing how you wear clothes speaks volumes when there’s intent. Max Mara joins in on tonal harmony with its mix of fine wool and cashmeres, whilst Hermès continues spearheading soft-edged femininity through its continual choice of timeless appeal rather than trendsetting.
Quiet Disruption
BY Gucci
FASHION: BLAZER, £395, E.L.V DENIM. SHIRT, £710, AND TROUSERS, £936, BOTH TOD’S. SHOES, £650, STELLA MCCARTNEY
Leaning into the duality of leather, Gucci takes the traditional skirt-suit and presents it in a bubblegum-pink leather format. Structured yet slouch-friendly, tailoring doesn’t need to be restricted this season – power can be found once you lean into it. Haider Ackermann followed suit in his Tom Ford debut, honing in on black leather two-pieces designed for those with a draw to danger (or fast cars). Meanwhile, Schiaparelli unveiled its sophomore ready-to-wear collection, in which creative director Daniel Roseberry adapted his ostentatious creations and presented an opulent array of tooled leather – from cowboy pants with a matching jacket to corset bustiers cinching waists.
Laid-back Leather
BY Tory Burch
FASHION: CABAN, £5,210, TOP, £1,330, SKIRT, £2,920,
AND BAG, £3,090, ALL GUCCI. SUNGLASSES, £235, LINDA FARROW. SHOES, £750, JIMMY CHOO
“AW25 saw designers go beyond just dressing women; they interrogated the idea of what it means to be one.”
modern muse
Modern Femininity
emininity is no longer a single narrative but a spectrum. The Autumn/Winter 2025 collections explore its many expressions; it is at once both sensual and cerebral, structured yet undone, assertive and intimate.
Designers have moved beyond simply dressing women — they question what it means to be one. Femininity isn’t a fixed aesthetic, it’s something to be inhabited, questioned and lived.
At Prada, proportions are never rigid but stand as gestures towards modern utility. Miu Miu celebrates subversive schoolgirl codes, taking up girlhood as an armour. Gucci – now under the direction of its in-house design team – finds tension in contrasts: pink versus red, leather against silk, the clash of tradition and modernity.
At Chloé and Louis Vuitton, transparency, layering and metallics evoke a deeper sensuality — one that feels cinematic and romantic. Diesel, meanwhile, has undertones of rebellion with a showcase of distressed tweed that feels oddly delicate.
Tory Burch embraces florals, transforming velvet into the uniform of modern heroines. Stella McCartney brings her usual fluidity to the fore with ruched, twisted silhouettes that move with the body rather than against it. While at Tod’s, masculinity is reinterpreted in soft tailoring delivered with a thoroughly feminine twist. This season, designers went beyond just dressing women—they questioned what it really means to be one. In this exclusive trend story, we reveal that femininity isn’t about following one specific look, but about expressing it in your own way.
Autumn/Winter 2025