Past, present and future
In partnership with REMÍREZ DE GANUZA
The tone for the evening was set as guests arrived at Decanter’s tasting suite and were handed a welcome glass of Remírez de Ganuza Blanco Reserva 2022. The wine’s contemporary classicism served both as an introduction to and summary of a very special evening of wine tasting and storytelling.
Led by Jose Urtasun, Remírez de Ganuza’s owner and bodeguero (general manager), and co-hosted by Decanter’s Regional Editor for Spain, Ines Salpico, the Decanter Presents… event took attendees on a journey through eight wines that tell the story of modern Rioja as much as of Remírez de Ganuza itself.
Gianni Zucchetto, export manager at Ruggeri
Rather than a just celebration of the winery’s accolades and sought-after wines, the session was an opportunity to discuss the role it has played, since its inception, in shaping modern Rioja as we know it today – both stylistically and qualitatively.
Among Remírez de Ganuza’s most important contributions was the development of strict grape selection protocols, from vineyard to cellar. This allowed for a better understanding of the true, multifaceted potential of each site, transferring the focus of decisionmaking from the winery to the vineyard.
The first two wines presented by Urtasun, Remírez de Ganuza’s Reserva 2017 and Trasnocho 2018, were living explanations of the different ways selectivity comes into play: first via the privileged sites originally scouted by Fernando Remírez de Ganuza to create his eponymous project; at harvest, when pickers select only the best bunches to go to the cellar; at grape reception, where Remírez de Ganuza pioneered the use of selection tables; and finally when only the free-run juice is used to make Reserva. For Trasnocho, the same exceptional grapes are then very gently pressed using the weight of a water ballon – a unique process, developed and patented by the winery, that avoids any oxygen contact.
The two wines reflect restless curiosity and
self-questioning – always seeking to translate the kaleidoscopic expressiveness of Rioja’s grapes and vines
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Relentlessly precise, this process reflects the winery’s overall philosophy, with technical ability simply facilitating the expressiveness of the best fruit. Ultimately, Urtasun explained, this is what allows Remírez de Ganuza’s wines to remain distinctive and have such longevity – as seen in the two library vintages of the Reserva, 2012 and 2010, showcased at the tasting.
True to the winery’s founding ethos – innovation and characterful reinterpretation of tradition – Urtasun then introduced the 2022 vintage of two of the most recent additions to Remírez de Ganuza’s portfolio: UV, a varietal Tempranillo, first produced in 2017 and now being released for the first time; and Iraila, a Garnacha of incredible focus that had its inaugural vintage in 2020. The product of continuous research and experimentation, the two wines reflect restless curiosity and self-questioning – always seeking to translate the kaleidoscopic expressiveness of Rioja’s grapes and vines.
This is drinking beautifully now, combining cropping maturity with youthful vibrancy: still an energetic child with great potential to develop further.
A broody layer of prune, fig leaf and cedar encases lively, juicy black cherry, poached plum and black berry. A moreish layer of mushroom, petrichor, basil and bay leaf coats the back palate, preluding an endless and nuanced finish, with powdery liquorice, toasted almonds and cranberry jam. An outstanding wine, held by acid tension and well-honed tannins.
Drink 2025-2035 | Alc 14.5%
Reserva 2010
Remírez de Ganuza’s addition of a pied de cuve of white grapes to its Reserva gives it lift and juicy florality, underpinning the muscular core of black and blue fruit that have become its trademark.
This 2012 is drinking beautifully now, with a vivid palate, soft yet pulling tannins and a great balance to the fruit, luscious but already showing broody dryness. Lovely on the mid-palate, with succulence offset by great acid drive.
Drink 2025-2035 | Alc 15%
Reserva 2012
Although it’s a child of a complicated vintage, afflicted by late frosts, there’s lovely quality, vibrancy and finesse here.
The fruit is intense and pure: a fleshy core of plum, red apple, blackberry and cassis is cloaked in nutmeg, cardamom, white pepper and cloves and sprinkled abundantly with oregano and thyme. Cocoa, tobacco leaves and Turkish coffee create a deep, earthy backdrop. The tannins are firm but silk-lined. A wine that will benefit from some years in the cellar.
Drink 2028-2040 | Alc 14.5%
Reserva 2017
Remarkable balance between nutty development, moreish intensity, nuanced fragrance and zesty drive; all the elements work in tandem to create a wine that is at once dense and vibrant.
Marcona almonds, frangipane, guava, pear and lemon curd mingle on the palate. Creamy mid-palate but with zesty energy on the attack. Long, umami tail of comté and white truffle. Drinking beautifully now but still with great potential to develop.
Drink 2025-2030 | Alc 13.5%
Olagar Gran Reserva 2018
The robust, muscular, deliciously powdery tannins hold the luscious blackberry, black cherry and plum fruit with assertive ease, letting it rest comfortably on the mid-palate. Fresher, juicier cranberry, blood orange and red apple peel follow, lifted by fragrant bay leaf, basil and oregano.
Long finish with lingering pot pourri, dark chocolate and tobacco leaf.
Drink 2028-2040 | Alc 14.5%
Trasnocho 2019
A wine of great detail and polished structure, with remarkable integration of wood, framing the juicy core of white orchard fruit, melon and preserved lemon with an elegant rim of toasted almonds and hay.
Top notes of jasmine and linden add lifted nuance, while white truffles and fresh hazelnuts create an earthy, moreish backdrop. Long finish, saline and herbaceous, supported by a fine yet assertive acid line.
Drink 2025-2032 | Alc 13.5%
Blanco Reserva 2021
Tasting Notes
Read more about Remírez de Ganuza
Daniel de Manuel, Protos’ export manager
Jose Urtasun, Remírez de Ganuza’s owner and bodeguero
Ruggeri wines are available in the UK from the Great Wine Co, imported by Enotria & Coe
Elegantly closing the circle, the tasting ended with two more highlights: Blanco Reserva 2021 and Olagar, a Blanco Gran Reserva exclusively from the eponymous 1.45ha vineyard, located at 600m elevation. These two white wines have played an important role both in the evolution of the winery’s portfolio and in the wider context of Rioja wine. Emerging as benchmark examples of Rioja’s ‘white revolution’, these are wines whose intense elegance is expanding the region’s identity beyond its trademark reds.
As the event came to a close, there was an exciting sense of rediscovery among the guests: those already familiar with Rioja and Remírez de Ganuza left with renewed wonder, while for those just introduced to the producer and its story, there was the realisation that today’s most exciting fine wines are being produced beyond the expected geographies of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Napa.
Read more about Remírez de Ganuza
Ines Salpico, Decanter’s Regional Editor for Spain
The winery’s founding ethos
is one of innovation and characterful
reinterpretation of tradition
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”
This still feels a bit coiled and will surely benefit from more time in bottle. But it’s already showing this wine’s trademark balance between moreishness and vibrancy.
Pear peel, clementine zest, toasted almonds, fresh hay, jasmine and wildflowers dance in the glass. A thin veil of vanilla and white pepper covers it all. Mouthwatering mineral freshness keeps you reaching for the glass. Drink 2026-2032 | Alc 13.5%
Blanco Reserva 2022
Pure, classical Garnacha with bright aromas of rose petals, red cherry and wild strawberry. The palate echoes the nose and adds a pleasant herbaceous edge. Glossy strawberry jam and blood orange bring in sweet vividness.
At the core, there are crunchy cranberries and pomegranate, wrapped in a thin, spicy veil. A slightly reductive edge adds nuance and definition.
Drink 2025-2037 | Alc 13.5%
Iraila 2022
Remírez de Ganuza’s only varietal Tempranillo, first released in 2017, delivers another pure, transparent expression of the variety.
Lifted by fragrant violets, crushed rose petals and wild strawberry, the flavours are moreish and juicy, with tomato compote, red cherry jam, pomegranate and cranberry. Lively and frank, this is dangerously drinkable, gliding through the palate and leaving a mouthwatering, zesty trail.
Drink 2025-2035 | Alc 13.5%
UV 2022
Event photography: Lola García Photography
Throughout the session,
the winemaker offered playful food-pairing advice, encouraging attendees to question assumptions about how best to enjoy wine from Ribera del Duero
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‘Very accomplished inaugural release of this wine… Distinctly mineral and round, with a refreshing chalkiness on the mid-palate… Great ageing potential…’
Score 94
Carroa
Ribera del Duero 2021
‘Very accomplished inaugural release of this wine… Distinctly mineral and round, with a refreshing chalkiness on the mid-palate… Great ageing potential…’
Score 94
Carroa
Ribera del Duero 2021
‘Beautiful integration of alcohol, tannins and wood… plum, prune, sour cherry and pink grapefruit, with a liquorice kick lingering on the long, salty finish…’
Score 93
Gran Reserva
Ribera del Duero 2017
Discover more at
remirezdeganuza.com/en/
Published 30 September 2025
For full tasting notes explore the Decanter database here
For full tasting notes explore the Decanter database here
Photo Credit: Diego Martinez
Published 30 September 2025
Event photography: Lola García Photography
Jose Urtasun, Remírez
de Ganuza’s owner and bodeguero
Read more about Remírez de Ganuza