Utiel-Requena: The story of a reawakening
In partnership with Utiel-Requena
In the first of two sessions held at Decanter’s Tasting Suite, the wines of Utiel-Requena brought a whiff of early spring to a dark early March evening in London.
The tasting was co-hosted by Ines Salpico, Decanter’s Regional Editor for Spain, and Beth Willard, Co-Chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards. Having long championed the emerging Spanish Levante as one of the country’s most exciting and fast-evolving wine regions, Salpico and Willard had an easy task at hand.
It’s an exciting moment of transition that is already impacting the makeup of Spain’s wine scene; value, reputation and prestige are quickly being redistributed – if not completely redefined.
“
”
92pts
100% Bobal. Modern, dynamic interpretation of a Bobal Crianza in which the well-integrated wood provides a lovely savoury frame to the fruit at the core. Crunchy, vibrant cherry, plum and blackberry are topped with oregano, thyme, rosemary and lavender. Broody, refreshing wet soil and garrigue lie underneath. A pleasure to drink, with approachable complexity. Alc 13%
Pago de Tharsys, Alegría de Tharsys 2023
91pts
100% Bobal. As its name suggests this Bobal has an assertive, robust quality to it, defined by grainy smoky tannins, roasted coffee broodiness and Earl Grey fragrance, cloaking a core of creamy cherry sorbet and plum jam. Yet there's also a very approachable side to it, not least because, at only 12.5% abv and with lively acid, it goes down dangerously easily. It will be interesting to see how it evolves in bottle as the structure smoothens its edges. Alc 12.5%
Neleman, Bobal Robusta 2023
Wines tasted at the Decanter Presents… evening
Discover more about DO Utiel-Requena
Photos supplied by DO Utiel-Requena
Published Tuesday 31st March
Ruggeri wines are available in the UK from the Great Wine Co, imported by Enotria & Coe
Elegance and craftsmanship:
Discover Cava de Guarda Superior
Ines Salpico, Decanter’s Regional Editor for Spain, and Beth Willard, DWWA Co-Chair
The hosts’ enthusiasm is part of the ongoing renewal in appreciation of the Mediterranean heritage that fundamentally shaped the history of Spanish viticulture for centuries (only to fall into relative oblivion following the post-phylloxera ‘ascent of the North’).
The hegemony of Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Galicia is giving way to a new understanding of the identity, lineage and sense of place of the wines and history of southern Spain. The canon of Spanish wine is being redrafted, with Utiel-Requena as one of its fundamental chapters. It’s an exciting moment of transition that is already impacting the makeup of Spain’s wine scene; value, reputation and prestige are quickly being redistributed – if not completely redefined.
Transition is a word that can be used to define Utiel-Requena itself. A mere 70km from the coast, at between 750 and 900 metres above sea level, on the seams of the Meseta Central, the region’s interplay between maritime and continental influence is obvious in both climate and biodiversity. Garrigue-like mountainous vegetation coexists with Mediterranean pines evocative of coastal sceneries; diurnal heat is tempered by fragrant, iodine afternoon breezes; old vineyards are cradled by the Hoces del Cabriel Natural Park and the Valle del Cabriel UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
Historical snapshots
Part of Utiel-Requena’s reawakening involves a rediscovery of its indigenous grape varieties – not merely viticultural curiosities but important, defining markers of the region's identity that, serendipitously, are set to perform particularly well in the face of climate change.
The white Tardana (named after its long growing cycle and late ripening schedule) and Merseguera (whose assertive fruit and phenolic grip make for particularly characterful skin-maceration wines) are being rediscovered by winemakers across the DO, all creatively exploring their potential to yield different styles.
Both the varieties’ strong identity and suitability for blending was explored in the masterclass line-up, showcasing how they can complement other grapes (not least the ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay) to create wines whose layered complexity and savoury texture are one of Utiel-Requena’s trademarks.
Meanwhile, the versatile red Bobal reigns supreme as Utiel-Requena’s flagship variety. Its crunchy fruit and elegant rusticity are wonderfully representatitve of what makes an Utiel-Requena wine. During the masterclass, Bobal’s plasticity was on full display in wines that interpreted the variety differently, both in style and winemaking approach.
Indigenous wealth
The stylistic range was as reflective of the winemakers’ technical ability as of the long, rich historical lineage they are calling upon. Utiel-Requena has a documented viticultural history going back 2,800 years and is home to some of the Iberian Peninsula’s most impressive viticulture-related archaeological sites.
Winemakers are leveraging a renewed appreciation for old vines as well as for traditional winemaking techniques and vessels – not least the impressive tinajas (Utiel-Requena was a production hotspot for these in the 18th century). In doing so they are effectively rewriting a part of Spanish winemaking history that needed urgent revision.
The goal is not, however, a reinterpretation of the past but rather the building of a toolkit for the future. With its holistic sustainability approach, Utiel-Requena is investing in the resilience of its landscape and community with multiple, complementary initiatives targeted at vines, institutions and people.
Research into Bobal’s clonal diversity (through Proyecto Bobal, a partnership with Universidad de Valencia), training programs for growers, apprenticeship placements for local high-school students and a dynamic schedule of cultural events are examples of Utiel-Requena’s dynamic activity. The creation of the Viñeron recognition in 2025 has further underscored the region’s appreciation for those who live for and from its land.
Rewriting history
92 pts
100% Bobal. There's a distinct mid-palate roundness and pluminess to this Bobal, full of red cherry and blackberry fruit sprinkled with thyme, oregano and tarragon. Wet clay freshness flows underneath, offsetting the grippy, toasty quality to the tannins. Refreshing blood orange zestiness to the finish. Alc 14%
Bodegas Vegalfaro, Caprasia Bobal Ánfora 2022
90pts
Sauvignon Blanc, Macabeo, Chardonnay. A playful, vibrant blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Macabeo and Chardonnay that leverages the contribution of each variety with successful ease. There's juicy lime and lemon upfront, followed on the mid-palate by crispy pear and white peach sprinkled with fennel and lemon balm. Pithy twist to the finish. Alc 12%
Chozas Carrascal, Las Dosces Blanco 2024
89pts
Bobal, Tempranillo. The Tempranillo in this Bobal-led Reserva adds structure and concentration, building a traditional example that straddles the identity of Utiel-Requena and a more generic Spanish paradigm. Alluring red fruit topped with Mediterranean herbs, pencil shavings and baking spice; all supported by sweet, muscular tannins. Intriguing green olive brine on the edges, adding saline nuance. Alc 13%
Faustino Rivero Ulecia, Reserva 2020
91pts
50% Merseguera, 50% Chardonnay. There's a moreish Mediterranean classicism to this accomplished blend of equal parts Merseguera and Chardonnay, aged for six months in oak. Meaty blanched almonds, nectarine, Golden Delicious apple and conference pear fill the mouth, underpinned by a subtle fragrant layer of fresh meadow. Finishes with a crunchy twist of apple peel. Alc 13.5%
Finca San Blas, Blanco 2020
88pts
100% Bobal. Refreshing, light-hued pink Bobal, perfect for poolside drinking, with generous blackcurrant, cranberry, plum and cherry fruit supporting for moderate but firm acidity. Gentle top notes of strawberry jam and crushed rose petals. Alc 12.5%
BVC, Toro Loco Rose 2024
Lola García Photography
92pts
100% Tardana. A textural, characterful and food-friendly expression of Tardana that fills the mid-palate with fleshy, generous crunchy pear, green apple and melon and preserved lemon. There's an alluring smoky frame as well as an appetising salinity throughout. Alcohol 11%
Coviñas, Veterum, Tardana 2024
