Photographer: SILVIA OLSEN
The founder and creative director shares her story
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or the latest in our Women Who Win series, Sunil Makan caught up with Anna Foster, founder and creative director of E.L.V. denim – a brand that is changing the face of denim and pioneering upcycling and sustainability.
E.L.V. DENIM was born with the sole purpose of only ever repurposing existing garments. I believe as an industry we have a duty to revalue all the material that already exists in some form or another. Denim was designed to be a long-lasting work fabric, it is the biggest polluting textile in the world, so it seemed like the perfect place to start. Each jean is hand sourced, chosen for the quality of the material. It doesn’t matter if the
jean is damaged or misshapen – in fact, we want what others don’t, as we know we alone can handcraft every part into a new piece that will
be designed to last forever.
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‘Designing for longevity is so important to me.’
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‘My overarching goal is to create a meaningful relationship between the consumer and the garment, to create their own memories in their jeans.’
E.L.V. DENIM’s Anna Foster on shaking up the denim industry
Take me back to the beginning of your business.
How did E.L.V. DENIM start?
My designs were focused on creating jeans thatcan fit every ‘body’. Like most women (and men), finding the perfect jean was quite demoralising as I felt that I didn’t conform to how a brand wanted me to feel. With E.L.V. DENIM I wanted to completely change that experience, as I believe our jeans should conform to how a woman or man wants to feel. We have customers coming in who have never found a pair that fits properly, and I am so proud that they leave with a pair of jeans that truly fit. It can sometimes be quite an emotional experience.
Our signature style with the four seams is not
only an aesthetic design, but a functional one too.
The seams allow for simple alterations (which is unheard of in denim), to achieve the desired fit, and the generous seam allowance – as with all couture tailoring – means that the jean can adapt with the life of the wearer; it can go up in size and down in size.
You offer a bespoke service – please tell me more about this.
One of the most beautiful qualities about our jeans is that every jean is one of a kind. I was a stylist for 20 years and I was fortunate in my position to often have one-off pieces from a brand or designer. I still cherish each and every piece because of the story and that it is personal to me. I didn’t see why this chance to have a unique piece should be exclusive to industry insiders, so therefore by upcycling vintage denim, everyone has an opportunity to have their own jeans, unique to them. My overarching goal is to create a meaningful relationship between the consumer and the garment, to create their own memories in their jeans. Designing for longevity is so important to me, and to support this we offer in-house alterations ensuring the customer feels valued, and we are viewed as an authority in this space. I wanted to create a brand with pieces that last forever, each that is as unique as the person who wears it, and offer aftercare services. For me this is a definition of luxury.
Why is using vintage denim so important to you?
Not in the slightest. In fact, because I only produce locally, I was able to start manufacturing again really quickly unlike others who produce abroad. Additionally, the pandemic brought the topic of sustainability to the top of everyone’s agenda. As a brand that was born from, and is built on, conscious sourcing, upcycling and local manufacturing, we were a natural choice for many retailers.
Did the pandemic affect your business?
Starting E.L.V. DENIM.
What is the bravest thing you’ve ever done?
When faced with what you think are business critical decisions, take time – and I mean more than five minutes – to really think about it. Often you can always find the positive narrative which will inspire you to take that challenge and turn it into greater learnings for the business. I used to think that it was a terrible reflection of myself if one project didn’t reap the rewards it was intended to. The smaller wins are sometimes more valuable. Every little victory!
What are the biggest lessons have you learned?
I am very aware that in the wider industry, female CEOs are few and far between. However, innovative female founders are, excitingly, in large numbers. More so, I find that I am discriminated against because of my age; I have never been able to apply for certain industry prizes because I was over 40 when I launched E.L.V. DENIM. I believe my years and experience has made me a better innovator and businesswoman, so I am not sure why age was such a problem.
Have you ever felt discriminated against as a female founder?
Right now, it’s split between The Freya jean, which along with The Stovepipe are the first jeans I have launched in four years. The Tux (which is upcycled from traditional morning coats), the Billie skirt, and the Riley top, which is reversible.
Do you have a favourite E.L.V DENIM piece?
I am getting there; I now work from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. so I can collect my youngest from school. It’s hard because, although it may not be the case 100% of the time, I do feel that historically women have struggled more than men with the concept of the work/personal life balance. None more so evidenced in the question asked – ‘how to achieve the work life balance’ – although it’s valid, I wonder how many men are asked that question. It’s a societal narrative that needs to change.
How do you achieve the right work/personal life balance?
Celebrate the wins.
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FASHION: TOP, SAINT LAURENT
What is the best advice you’ve received?
Being nominated twice for the Vogue Fund,
and winning the British Fashion Trust prize; to
be recognised by my industry is humbling. But more importantly is that I have grown my business to employ six incredible women, proving against the perceived odds that upcycling can be a successful business model.
What has been your proudest moment?
From my experience, you must be fully prepared, have clear justifiable targets that have been achieved, plus outline how you are going to take the initiative to reach the next set of objectives.
How can we all ask for more, professionally?
We literally ring a bell!
How do you celebrate success?
Quality-obsessed!
What is your mantra?
Women are constantly leading the way on the ground with innovation, but when it comes
to the more impactful and leading roles, it is the men who seem to get those. We aren’t just ‘kitchen table’ innovators, I want women to be recognised as industry-leading innovators. I won a prestigious award last year which was an incredible opportunity, but elements surrounding the branding and phrasing of the award felt rather frivolous… It was frankly patronising.
What would you want to change for women?
Organically. I really believe in serendipity when it comes to hiring, and that is how everyone has come to be at E.L.V. DENIM. I am so proudof my team, we are all dedicated to creating a new way to design, produce and consume fashion.
You have an amazing team of young women working with you – how did this come about?
Using raw material. We are the only brand that only uses existing textile forms to upcycle. We never cut from a roll of fabric.
What is one thing you’d never compromise on when it came to your business?
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Here, Anna shares her insights into starting a business, revolutionising fit and disrupting the industry.
‘I have grown my business to employ six incredible women, proving against the perceived odds that upcycling can be a successful business model.’
‘The smaller wins are sometimes more valuable. Every little victory!’
