Kai Collective founder Fisayo Longe was set on studying law – until missing out
on a place at Warwick University led to a fashion startup that went stellar. Here,
as part of our Women Who Win series, Longe tells Penny Goldstone how she
turned her ‘second choice’ into a trailblazing business
“The journey began unexpectedly in January, 2012, after I missed my offer to study Law at Warwick University by a narrow margin, achieving A, A, B grades instead of the required three As. Rather than settle for another university, I decided to take a gap year – and started a fashion and travel blog, which quickly became a creative outlet for me.
I’ve always been passionate about fabric shopping and I indulged in this hobby during my travels. Each time I visited a new place, I would purchase unique fabrics, design outfits, then showcase these creations on my blog and Instagram.
The response was overwhelming – people constantly asked where they could buy the pieces I was wearing. This sparked an entrepreneurial lightbulb moment and I realised that there was potential to transform this passion into a viable business. What began as a personal creative project evolved into a brand that merges my love for travel, design, and entrepreneurship.”
“For me, life isn’t truly worth living if I can’t dream, create, and relentlessly chase the life I envision”
Take us back to the beginning of your business…
“The fashion industry is incredibly fast-paced and ever-changing, so we’ve had to adapt several times to stay relevant. However, we’ve never undergone a complete pivot. After launching the business in 2016, despite having around 40,000 Instagram followers and a growing blog, the initial launch didn’t go as expected. It was a humbling experience that made me realise our brand lacked a unique selling point – it wasn’t distinct enough to stand out in the crowded fashion market.
Over the next three years, I took a step back to reassess our direction. This introspection led me to draw more deeply on my heritage and upbringing in Nigeria, focusing on creating unique, colourful prints that truly represented our brand’s identity. In 2020, our ‘Gaia’ print went viral, and it was a pivotal moment – authenticity and uniqueness not only saved the business but also set the stage for our future success.”
Has the label had to pivot or change in the last few years?
“One of the bravest decisions I’ve ever made was leaving my stable career as an auditor at KPMG after three years to pursue my passion in the fashion industry. I was in a secure position, but I really struggled to work a job that I wasn’t passionate about.
For me, life isn’t truly worth living if I can’t dream, create, and relentlessly chase the life I envision. Between 2014, when I left finance, and 2020, when our ‘Gaia’ print gained widespread recognition, there were many moments when making ends meet was difficult. But now, looking back, I can confidently say it was absolutely worth it.”
What is the bravest thing you’ve ever done?
“One of the bravest decisions I’ve ever made was leaving my stable career as an auditor at KPMG after three years to pursue my passion in the fashion industry. I was in a secure position, but I really struggled to work a job that I wasn’t passionate about.
For me, life isn’t truly worth living if I can’t dream, create, and relentlessly chase the life I envision. Between 2014, when I left finance, and 2020, when our ‘Gaia’ print gained widespread recognition, there were many moments when making ends meet was difficult. But now, looking back, I can confidently say it was absolutely worth it.”
What is the bravest thing you’ve ever done?
“Over the past eight years since I started Kai, the amount of rejection I’ve faced has been staggering and, at times, disheartening. One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned is that success and setbacks often coexist. You can experience your biggest win and your biggest loss on the same day. For example, you might have a record-breaking launch and be featured in top magazines, yet still face rejection from a retailer you’ve been eager to partner with—all within a single day.
This rollercoaster has taught me not to view myself through the lens of others. The key lesson I’ve learned is the importance of creating your own opportunities and building your own demand. When you establish your own platform and cultivate your own success, those who once overlooked you often come back wanting a seat at your table.”
“While I’ve been fortunate to bootstrap Kai Collective into a successful business, largely thanks to the support of our incredible community, I’m still not immune to the discrimination that female founders often face. There are certain scenarios where misogyny becomes very apparent, especially when I’m abroad seeking new manufacturers or sourcing fabrics. As a Black female founder, the challenges are particularly steep. For instance, in 2023, women-founded startups accounted for around 2% of venture capital funding in Europe and the US; this figure is even less for Black women.
However, because I haven’t sought external investment and I have full control over my day-to-day operations, I’m somewhat insulated from the constant, overt discrimination that many women in business face. Still, it’s a reality that I’m aware of, and it’s something that underscores the importance of continuing to build and maintain the autonomy of my business.”
Have you ever felt discriminated against as a female founder?
“My eternal favourite piece is our ‘Gaia’ robe – we’re in the process of creating matching slippers, too, so you can feel like you’re walking on clouds around your home. I’m also particularly fond of our ‘Adesuwa’ dress, which Vogue crowned the ‘dress of the summer’, and our ‘Yumi’ skirt, which is a stylist’s dream – it’s incredibly versatile, so it’s the perfect piece to get creative with.”
Do you have a favourite piece in the collection?
“I’m still trying to figure this out. Despite having gone through a period of severe burnout, I haven’t yet mastered the work/life balance – it’s something I’m continually working on, and hopefully, a year from now, I’ll have a better answer. One thing I have learned, though, is that hiring the right team is crucial. It allows you to delegate effectively and focus on what truly matters – both in your business and in your personal life.”
How do you achieve the perfect work/life balance?
“One of my proudest moments came when I received a message from a customer who shared that she had struggled with body confidence after childbirth. She told me that after wearing a Kai dress, she felt like Beyoncé – it was an incredible moment. These [messages] never gets old because whether it’s a birthday, graduation or marriage proposal, we are a small part of [our customers’] most important life memories. We’re not just creating clothes; we’re providing a conduit for self-expression and self-actualisation. Knowing that something I’ve created can have such a positive impact on someone’s life is profoundly rewarding and makes all the hard work worthwhile.”
Name your proudest moment so far…
“I once interviewed for a position as an executive assistant to Scott Tepper, Fashion Buying and Merchandising Director at Liberty. Although I didn’t get the job, Scott sent me the kindest rejection email. He encouraged me to continue being honest and true to myself, saying that it was a rare and impressive quality. He eventually helped me to secure another role at Liberty.
This happened at a time when I was struggling to break into the fashion industry, and my self-esteem was at a low point. His words made me realise that being authentic and true to myself is not only enough, but my strength. This advice has stayed with me, always reminding me that authenticity is invaluable.”
What is the best advice you’ve ever received?
“My integrity. I recently received an offer that, if accepted, would probably have resulted in enough money to buy my dream London home – but I turned it down because it conflicted with my values. I’ve worked hard to build a strong brand and reputation, and I’m not willing to sacrifice that for financial gain.”
What will you never compromise on in business?
“It’s something I tweeted in 2021 that went viral. I wrote: ‘So many people who don’t believe in themselves, projecting their insecurities onto people who do. A lot of ‘how dare you’ energy. I dare me. And I will always dare me. Better face your front and start daring yourself.’
It’s about having the courage to be bold and to continue challenging myself, regardless of external doubts. Never limit yourself and never accept the limitations that other people try to place on you.”
Do you have a mantra?
“The key to asking for more – whether it’s a promotion, a raise, or additional responsibilities – is to build a strong case based on your past performance. Confidence, both in yourself and in how others perceive you, often comes from being able to show concrete evidence of your success. When you feel ready to ask for a promotion or more opportunities, gather all of your achievements and contributions into a well-organised presentation. By clearly demonstrating your value, you make your request much more compelling and difficult to overlook. Remember, it’s not just about asking for more – it’s about showing why you deserve it.”
How can we all ask for more?
“I’ve always had a strong inclination to work with women, and women have similarly been drawn to working at Kai Collective. Over time, this has led to a predominantly female team. However, in recent years, I’ve also brought some men in and I’ve seen the positive impact of increased diversity.”
You have an amazing team of young women working with you. How did this come about?
“Bringing ideas to life. I excel at execution and turning concepts into reality. Once I have a great idea, I become deeply focused on making it a reality, and I don’t rest until I’ve executed it beautifully. This ability to transform vision into tangible results is something I take great pride in.”
What is your superpower?
“There are so many things I’d like to change for women. Fundamentally, I want to change the pervasive biases and systemic inequalities that still exist. For instance, the automatic assumption that God is male, the expectation for women to change their surnames upon marriage, and the traditional gender roles that often confine women to homemaking rather than financial independence.
I’m also deeply concerned about issues like the gender pay gap, gender-based violence, and the disrespect that women are expected to tolerate. In Lagos, Nigeria, where I grew up, it’s commonplace for landlords to refuse to rent to single women regardless of their financial status. It infuriates me that we still deal with these issues in 2024. Women are not second-class citizens, and society needs to recognise and value our contributions and rights more fully. We are the source – none of this would exist without us.”
What would you want to change for women?
“The amount of rejection I’ve faced has been staggering and, at times, disheartening…
As a Black female founder, the challenges are particularly steep”
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And your biggest challenge?
Longe
led Fisayo Longe to success
Fisayo
How a crossroads moment
“Authenticity and uniqueness not only saved the business but also set the stage for our future success”
“Launching my brand with around 10 different styles right from the start. This approach ended up being a significant waste of money and resources. If I could do it again, I would start with just one to three styles and concentrate on establishing a strong unique selling point.”
Name the biggest mistake you’ve ever made…
“We could significantly reduce feelings of loneliness; we could foster more love and understanding to help counteract the fear of judgement; we could empower people to pursue their dreams and create the lives they aspire to.”
What could we all achieve if we supported each other?
“The Nomad Hotel in Covent Garden is a top choice for its calming atmosphere, particularly in the library. Hill Garden and Pergola in Hampstead is another favourite for its charming vibe. Hampstead is actually my ideal place to live – I just need a few more years of hustling to get there! Dover Street Market is always a great destination for unique finds, and The Twenty Two stands out for its excellent decor and food. I’m fond of the area around our HQ in Shoreditch, too – it’s incredibly creative, full of energy, and you always spot the best-dressed people.”
Any favourite places in London?
“My absolute favourite is one that I gate-keep, but I also love Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Thé Noir 29 by Le Labo and Nefs by Nishane.
What’s your go-to fragrance?
“Success and setbacks often coexist. You can experience your biggest win and your biggest loss on the same day”
“Tretinoin is my absolute must-have. It’s like a cheat code for skincare, and it has truly transformed my complexion. Fortunately, I don’t have sensitive skin, so it works exceptionally well for me.”
The beauty product you can’t live without?
“The ‘Gaia’ dress from Kai Collective, which holds a special place in my heart because it was a turning point for the brand. But I also adore my Schiaparelli earrings. Schiaparelli is a major source of inspiration for me; it’s also the most expensive label that I’ve come across, so starting my collection with its accessories means a lot. It shows me how far I’ve come and how much more there is to do – I’m so excited and motivated for the journey ahead.”
What is your most-loved fashion item?
£135
Yumi Faux Skirt
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£180
Gaia Ruched Dress
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£250
Adesuwa Ruched Dress
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£160
Mei Exaggerated Ruffle Top
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£220
Gaia Hooded Printed Robe
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£395
Emani Faux Leather Coat
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Blazer, Sportmax; skirt, Kai Collective; shoes, Burberry
Top, Kai Collective; skirt, Simone Rocha; shoes, James + Elizabeth
Dress Kai Collective; Shoes, Ferragamo
Top, Kai Collective; skirt, Simone Rocha; shoes, James + Elizabeth
Dress, Kai Collective; shoes, Jimmy Choo
Dress, Kai Collective; shoes, Jimmy Choo
Makeup by Shirley Anne Dapaah, using the Jordana Ticia Nude Divinity Palette and Charlotte Tilbury Flawless Filter.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Phill Taylor
“The amount of rejection I’ve faced has been staggering and, at times, disheartening… As a Black female founder, the challenges are particularly steep”
Makeup by Shirley Anne Dapaah, using the Jordana Ticia Nude Divinity Palette and Charlotte Tilbury Flawless Filter.