Photographer: Peter Rigaud
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“I’ve always been particular about my brows—even on shoots with incredible make-up artists, I’d insist on doing my own.”
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On Seasonless Design, Long-Term Success and Navigating a Fast-Paced, Tech-Driven Industry
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“Of course, I’m very grateful for the successes we have achieved, and yes, we can celebrate these milestones. But I’m always cautious – I never believe I have ‘arrived’. To me, one day you’re in and the next you could be out. You can’t rest on your laurels.”
“I say ‘work in progress’ a lot or ‘this too shall pass’. Also: ‘don’t forget to have fun’.”
What is your mantra?
“In the beginning, the biggest challenge was
doing everything with a small team, but I truly believe it’s important to be hands-on to understand what your business really needs”
“When we got our first negative TikTok review, I panicked. I thought we’d ruined everything. But it turned into one of my biggest lessons.”
“A very old Hermès trench, which I got when I worked at the [brand’s] sample sale in the ’90s, plus a McQueen embroidered cape.”
What is your most treasured fashion item?
£470
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£310
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£420
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£330
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£390
Uma suede and satin sneakers
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£330
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I wanted to create modern, well-made, almost seasonless shoes with a clear design language. I’d noticed a gap in the footwear market between high luxury and trend-driven fast fashion – in 2015, we launched Aeyde with only 15 styles, focusing on selling directly to customers to build a relationship with them. From there, we grew step by step through international wholesale, pop-ups and events, refining the brand and expanding our reach carefully.
Over the years, I’ve made countless mistakes, which I see as a part of the process. One key lesson for me has been to stay close to my own vision and not let too many outside opinions blur it – you have to stay centred and focused. Early on, I often took on too much myself and underestimated the value of delegating. I have come to understand how essential it is to build a strong team and place trust in others – both for sustainable growth and for making more considered decisions.
We try to be sincere and authentic in everything we do. We sometimes say that we are creating objects that are right in every sense of the word—the right proportions, the right level of practicality, and the right balance between the quality and the price. You have to have respect for the customer, and we’ve kept our prices quite consistent all these years. I don’t agree with the mentality of selling super expensive products just for the sake of it, and you don’t care because you know that someone will be ready to pay for it. When you do that, they probably won’t come back. You need to keep that link with the customer; that’s what builds a future.
The one thing I would never compromise on in business? Passion. It’s so important to have passion, and to transmit that to all the people around us. I think that only when you really do things with passion, that you can do them well.
What I’m proudest of is the fact that we have been able to evolve. In nearly 80 years, we have gone from being a tobacco store to a lifestyle brand with a presence all around the world. We didn’t do it in one dramatic revolutionary way—we did it with consistency. We have always evolved, we have always innovated, created, re-imagined. But we have also maintained strong roots and strong pillars, like our Le Pliage and Le Roseau designs. Those two bags are more than 30 years old, and to see women today still wanting them and wearing them is something I’m very proud of. We’ve managed to succeed in keeping them desirable all this time, which is not something that many brands have been able to do.
Success isn’t really what I’m looking for—it’s to feel that I have done my best. To know that I have achieved something in a good way, in the best way I could. And sometimes, of course, it doesn’t work, but I can still feel proud of it, and how I overcame difficulties or tried something different and innovative. We must always learn from our mistakes.
A special moment I will always remember was our collaboration collection with Tracey Emin. It was the first one I ever did, and it was to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Le Pliage in 2004. Collaborations were not so common then, few people were doing them—especially one that was so purely artistic. To meet her, to work with her, was incredible, and I think the result perfectly captured Tracey’s spirit, and Longchamp’s spirit too. It was really the beginning of a new page for the brand.
“Trusting my vision and committing to building something of my own was ultimately one of the most defining and rewarding decisions I’ve made”
In an era defined by accelerated fashion cycles, Aeyde founder Luisa Dames has chosen a more considered path. Building her collections around seasonless designs that transcend trends while remaining stylish and modern, Dames stays ahead by remaining centred and focused on her vision for the brand, and retaining a commitment to craftsmanship that acknowledges the need for innovation in a changing world. In the latest instalment of our Women Who Win series, she speaks to Marie Claire UK about the joys, challenges and rewards of taking Aeyde from a single capsule collection to the coveted international brand it is today.
“Our Le Pliage and
Le Roseau bags are more than 30 years old, so to see women today still wanting them and wearing them is something I’m very proud of.”
Onda bow-detailed metallic pumps
Suzanne leather-trimmed mesh sandals
Carla snake-effect slingback pumps
Anisa leather flat sandals
Zelia leather sandals
Overall, I have had quite a positive experience so far as a woman in business. Of course, there are still some structural challenges. The investor landscape remains largely male, which can make it more difficult for female founders, particularly when pitching a female-focused product, and even more so as a solo founder compared to a mixed-gender team. However, it has improved, especially compared to when I first started around 10 years ago.
For me, success is less about big gestures and more about taking a moment to acknowledge what we’ve achieved as a team. I always throw a super nice Christmas party with a special musical act or a surprise for our team, for example. At the same time, I tend to focus on what’s next. Especially working in fashion, you are usually one year ahead with your plans and ideas.
I don’t work on weekends. I make time for my other interests, such as sports. I do weight training and sprints, and I love to go swimming during the summer months. I also like to spend my days in museums, art exhibitions and have long dinners with friends or family. I take holiday time very seriously. If you work for 10 years in a creative field, you need to make sure you have enough downtime and an inward-facing momentum. It helps me recharge and find new ideas.
“In today’s world, you cannot count on stability; everything is moving at a very fast pace””
My favourite places in Berlin are for food and drinks. I love places like Sale e Tabacchi, Bar Milano, Le Petit Royal, and Shiori. On the cultural side, I often visit Gropius Bau and the Boros Collection – which is housed in a converted bunker – and galleries such as Galeria Plan B, Heidi, and CFA Gallery. Eternithaus – an event space in a restored mid-century building just outside the city – is also very special. I also enjoy spending time at institutions like the Staatsoper Berlin, Deutsche Oper Berlin, Schaubühne, and Kino International. And of course, Strausberger Platz is a meaningful place for me, as it’s where Aeyde is based. In London, I enjoy the contrast between places that feel very modern, like Cycene restaurant at Blue Mountain School, and Wiltons, which is beautifully traditional. I always visit the Tate, but I also love discovering smaller galleries like Emalin, near Old Street.
The best advice I’ve ever received is to focus on what you do best. Where possible, bring in others for the areas that aren’t your core strength or passion. At the same time, as a fashion brand, it’s important to stay close to your core category and not lose focus – there’s usually a reason why people connected with it in the first place.
“I’d much rather have a conversation twice and reflect carefully than rush into the wrong decision”
My favourite pieces from the current collection are the ‘Isidora’ pump, the ‘Carla’ slingbacks, and the ‘Liza’ square-toe pumps in leopard pony hair. I’m also excited about our new sneaker, which is a culmination of years of design exploration and understanding our customers. The sneaker is based on our core ballerina shape, ‘Uma’, which has been worn by Gigi Hadid and many other celebrities. The ‘Leandra’ boot – relaunching soon – is really close to my heart. It was an early design that captured the Aeyde ethos: timeless, sculptural, and wearable. It taught me how a single shoe can communicate a brand’s identity globally.
My proudest moment has been Aeyde turning 10 and the opening of our new headquarters, Aeyde Haus, in Berlin. Achieving profitability a few years ago was also a major milestone. It’s incredibly rewarding to see that the business can sustain itself, support a team along the way, and operate independently. That level of independence has also given me greater confidence and clarity in my decision-making. My mantra is, anything is possible; just keep going.
“You have to stay ahead of the curve – not only on trends and the fashion side of things, but most importantly on all technology and AI innovation”
luISA dAMES
The bravest thing I’ve done was leaving my previous, very well-paid, job to start Aeyde. It meant stepping into uncertainty and taking a personal, financial and professional risk without knowing exactly how things would unfold. But trusting my vision and committing to building something of my own was ultimately one of the most defining and rewarding decisions I’ve made.
One of the most important lessons I’ve learned in business is that consistency and focus matter far more than speed. It’s easy to feel pressure to move quickly, but long-term success comes from making deliberate, thoughtful decisions about which opportunities to pursue and which to let go. I’ve learned to stay calm and rational, taking the time to think things through before acting. I’d much rather have a conversation twice and reflect carefully than rush into the wrong decision. Another key lesson is the importance of hiring. As a business leader, the people you choose to join your journey are everything. The better they align with your vision and values, the stronger your results will be as a team.
Scaling the brand while protecting its identity has been the biggest challenge. I would never compromise on quality, integrity and long-term brand value. I could not commit to a short-term gain if it might compromise what Aeyde stands for, or the vision I have for the brand. The current crisis in retail and luxury highlights the importance of consistency and focus over speed. In today’s world, you cannot count on stability; everything is moving at a very fast pace. As a brand owner, you have to stay ahead of the curve – not only on trends and the fashion side of things, but most importantly on all technology and AI innovation.
Junior Fashion Editor: SOFIA PIZA