Atwater Brewing and Detroit a Perfect Match

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Talk about a rebirth and a major image makeover. Detroit, a city long maligned for a number of reasons, has experienced a remarkable renaissance, and right in the middle of all this economic development and cool vibes is its hometown craft brewery, Atwater. The brewery has called Detroit its home since 1997 and has seen the proud city fall and be written off by critics–many of whom never set foot in the Motor City. Atwater Brewery has come to personify the lunch pail mentality that Detroit has always staked its reputation on. “We are Detroit’s brewery and we have deep roots in the city,” said Shane Cowger, sales director with Atwater Brewery. Atwater is located in the historic Rivertown neighborhood, once a sad site of urban blight with abandoned warehouses, pothole-laced streets and a smattering of hard-luck people. Today it’s a trendy waterside area, the drab empty warehouses having been

By Jon Becker

MIBREW TRAIL MAGAZINE

SUMMER 2024

converted into lofts and boutiques, upscale restaurants and, of course, Atwater paying homage to Detroit’s rich brewery history by serving as an anchor establishment. “It’s been an incredible renaissance for the City of Detroit and we’re happy to be part of it,” Cowger said. “We have a really good connection with the city and get what this town is all about.” There’s a certain mystique surrounding Atwater. Their building is over 100 years old and legend has it that during Prohibition the Purple Gang, Detroit’s most notorious crime mob during this era, would pick up bootleg booze from Canada. “Word is they had a code: ‘meet at water for city juice,’” Cowger, a 28-year veteran of the beer industry, said. “The brewery sits just blocks from the Detroit River overlooking Windsor, Ontario.” Today Dirty Blonde continues to be its top-seller but it has stiff competition from the newest addition to the Atwater lineup: D-Light. Born out of a partnership with the Detroit Tigers, the low-calorie, low carb lager was sold exclusively at Comerica Park during the 2023 season, but is now available in stores, including Kroger and Meijer.

Check out Hearst’s newest brand showcasing Michigan Breweries at MiBrewTrail.com.

The can features the Tigers’ iconic Old English D logo and has proven to be a major hit with consumers. “It has been really, really well-received,” Cowger said. “It’s very flavorful. It’s Kroger’s number one new item for 2024. We had it at Frankenmuth World Expo of Beer in May and it captured two gold medals. I’m not aware of any other beer winning two golds.” Thanks to Head Brewer Chris Else, “We like to think we have a beer for every occasion,” Cowger said. “He’s super talented, has a lot of education and passion and is a nice guy. We’re fortunate to have him as a member of our team.” Cowger describes its top-selling Dirty Blonde as not too big with not too much carbonation that goes well with food, so the food is the star of the show as it should be. If you’re sitting around a campfire you might want a beer with a little more kick, perhaps a hazy IPA. Conversely, if you’re at the ballpark on a 90-degree day you may want to reach for a refresher like Atwater’s Little Petty Shandy.

“Oh, we just talked about that this morning when we blew the back wall out of the building," Andrew replied. "That was like the moment where it's like, okay, we're going to, there's not really a clean exit strategy at this point, and we're not going to go back. No, it was before that, though. Well, let's be perfectly honest. Some of you might remember our Kickstarter campaign, and some of you gave us some money for that. So, once you accept money or something like that, there's a bunch of motivation to go forward. And really, it wasn't about the money; it was more about people communicating with us at that moment that they want something like this.” Andrew handed off to Troy for his thoughts on when the brewery became real, and he laughed, “When we signed our banknote.” This sparked laughs around the pub.

Some 27 years in as a Detroit mainstay in a redeveloped city attraction, Atwater continues to make its mark. “We are the only major Michigan craft brewery growing market share,” he said. “A few of our friends like Belle’s may sell more beer but they aren’t experiencing market share growth like us.” Atwater is clearly committed to Detroit. They are also committed to using only the finest equipment and best ingredients from Germany to brew their lagers. Never wavering from precision and maintaining a healthy respect for history isn’t always easy, but Atwater didn’t put its unique stamp on Michigan’s craft beer industry by cutting corners. It’s just not how the Atwater team or the city it has come to symbolizes rolls. “Our building is 100 years old and if we need parts they need to be shipped overseas,” Cowger notes. “This can pose challenges but we are committed to doing things how we feel is the right way.” Michigan craft beer enthusiasts will have an opportunity to meet Cowger and sample some of Atwater’s finest beers at the Great Lakes Beer Festival. This year’s celebration of the state’s craft beer industry will take place Saturday, August 17, from 2-7 p.m. at Dow Diamond, in downtown Midland. Cowger is looking forward to being part of it for the first time. “My distributor in Flint, John P. O’ Sullivan, does a great job and he recommended we be a part of a well-run event,” Cowger said.

A partnership with the Detroit Tigers has led to the creation of the newest addition to the Atwater lineup: D Light, a popular low calorie, low carb beer that has become a top seller since hitting store shelves.

Perrin Brewing

Right Brain Brewery

Atwater Brewery www.atwaterbeer.com Atwater Brewery's logo, like the craft brewery itself, pays tribute to the hard-working residents of Detroit.

A group of the Atwater Employee Team is seen standing outside of the brewery, located in Detroit's historic Rivertown neighborhood.

Founders Brewing Co.

“It’s our best-selling seasonal,” Cowger said. “Ours is a little more tart than a Leinenkugel’s, a bit more puckering but refreshing.” Some 27 years in as a Detroit mainstay in a redeveloped city attraction, Atwater continues to make its mark. “We are the only major Michigan craft brewery growing market share,” he said. “A few of our friends like Belle’s may sell more beer but they aren’t experiencing market share growth like us.” Atwater is clearly committed to Detroit. They are also committed to using only the finest equipment and best ingredients from Germany to brew their lagers. Never wavering from precision and maintaining a healthy respect for history isn’t always easy, but Atwater didn’t put its unique stamp on Michigan’s craft beer industry by cutting corners. It’s just not how the Atwater team or the city it has come to symbolizes rolls. “Our building is 100 years old and if we need parts they need to be shipped overseas,” Cowger notes. “This can pose challenges but we are committed to doing things how we feel is the right way.” Michigan craft beer enthusiasts will have an opportunity to meet Cowger and sample some of Atwater’s finest beers at the Great Lakes Beer Festival. This year’s celebration of the state’s craft beer industry will take place Saturday, August 17, from 2-7 p.m. at Dow Diamond, in downtown Midland. Cowger is looking forward to being part of it for the first time. “My distributor in Flint, John P. O’ Sullivan, does a great job and he recommended we be a part of a well-run event,” Cowger said.

Great Lakes Beer Festival www.greatlakesbeerfestival.com The Great Lakes Beer Festival is your chance to sample the best of Michigan's craft beer scene, all in beautiful Dow Diamond in Midland!

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