How do you start a phenomenon from your own backyard? If you’re Dick Cooper, you resurrect Barbera, an Italian varietal little-known in the US, on farmland family-owned for generations. Almost 50 years ago, Dick Cooper started planting Barbera in an area known primarily for its Zinfandel and forever changed the face of the Sierra Foothills wine-growing region of Shenandoah Valley, Amador County.
Hailed as The Godfather of Barbera, Cooper passed away at age 82, leaving behind his prized Cooper Vineyards, now run by his daughters. And although he may have not seen his 2021 harvest come to bear, his legacy lives on; it was his 2021 Barbera that ran away with this year’s Red Sweepstake Award at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.
He believed in the future of wine in California and gave rise to the varietal. Knowing the terroir around his family ranch was ideal for growing and producing stunning wines, he planted several lesser-known varietals, giving Viognier, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvédre a platform amongst the Cooper Vineyards wine-tasting experience.
He wrote a quintessential must-read for new vineyard owners, Vineyard Management in Amador County, yet the ever-humble Cooper from Amador County waited until 2004 to build his own winery, Cooper Vineyards, which would finally showcase the incredible wines produced from the grapes he grew.
THE GODFATHER OF BARBERA LIVES ON THROUGH THE LEGACY OF COOPER VINEYARDS
In total, Cooper Vineyards produces 17 grape varietals planted across 85 acres, two-thirds of which are sold to neighboring wineries to fulfill their production needs, and one-third retain to produce their own line-up of over 20 estate bottled wines.
Cooper’s exhaustive wine knowledge found a perfect winemaker in Mike Roser, whose culinary background makes him an expert at developing season-specific, food-friendly wines.
From Viognier and Grenache Rose in summer, to Primitivo Reserve and Cooper Ranch Red released in time for the holidays, Roser’s dedication to Cooper’s grapes resonates year-round.
Cooper and Roser shared a love for Italian varietals from Piedmont and French varietals from the Rhône Valley. Both were accomplished musicians and had a mutual respect for one another. The result: an entire suite of award-winning wines.
In total, Cooper Vineyards produces 17 grape varietals planted across 85 acres, two-thirds of which are sold to neighboring wineries to fulfill their production needs, and one-third retain to produce their own line-up of over 20 estate bottled wines. Cooper wines are sold directly to consumers from their tasting room and Cin! Cin! wine club, where members enjoy four shipments throughout the year along with special purchasing opportunities, premium wines and early release events.
This year’s highlights include the famous Barbera 2021, Red Sweepstakes Winner. This big, bold Barbera is rich, dark, and fabulously fragrant. Stunning with an opaque ruby color, the scent is luscious and complex. Dark cherry and chocolate notes combine with whispers of toffee, spice and vanilla on the palate. The finish is characteristically smooth, lush and creamy.
Looking for a luxurious dessert wine? Cooper Vineyard’s Dicembre 2019 is like Black Forest cake in a glass. Gold Medal Winner of the 2023 Foothill Wine Festival Competition, this late-harvest Barbera dessert wine is medium-bodied with a nice dry finish and boasts a symphony of flavors in perfect harmony.
Or try their Blondie 2020, a fusion of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne, with honeysuckle on the nose, and an apple, pear, and soft white pepper finish. Cooper Vineyards’ vertically integrated program provides an impressive array of estate bottled options.
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Approachable Wines for Every Palate
Since its inception, Cooper Vineyards was destined to be a family business. Today, aided by winemaker Roser and his assistants, and an indispensable team of vineyard foremen, the Cooper sisters handle the day-to-day operations of Cooper Vineyards, each with their own area of expertise.
If you’re curious about the family vineyards or harvest, Chrissy Cooper Cheetham is the person to ask—unless September is approaching, in which case she’ll be busy getting ready for crush. In non-harvest moments, you’ll find Chrissy managing grape sales and other day-to-day operations from the Cooper office.
Attend a wine club event and you’ll meet Jennifer Cooper Housler, whose knack for pulling an event together is unsurpassed. You may see her pass by with a ladle, but if you want to chit-chat, you might end up with a job.
Enjoy a visit to the tasting room and there you’ll find Jeri Cooper Swift. While pouring flights of estate bottled wine, Jeri and her knowledgeable staff guide guests through the history of Cooper Vineyards. Ask about the Barbera Buck or the 1937 Indian motorcycle, and leave knowing you’ve just been someplace special.
Behind the scenes, you might catch a glimpse of Rochelle Cooper, who occasionally breezes through the tasting room in rubber boots. She’ll be heading to or from an outdoor project, unless she’s home working on advertising.
Each member of the Cooper Family has a different job, but they keep the same mission in mind: Carry on their father’s legacy of producing the highest quality fruit, and present it in exquisite single-varietal wines and beautifully balanced blends. Winning awards is great, but the fellowship and community that comes with sharing a bottle of Barbera is the highest goal one can attain.
Meet the Sisters
Dick Cooper was known not only as one of the founders of the region’s grape and wine industry, but for his dedication, generosity and varied community contributions.
Over the years, Cooper made a name for himself, from Soil Conservationist of the Year, to Business Person of the Year, gaining recognition from the California 5th Assembly District, California 5th Congressional District, the United States Department of Agriculture, and received the Golden Bear for Vineyard of the Year from the California State Fair. He has been honored by the Amador County Chamber of Commerce, and dubbed by industry professionals and his peers as The Godfather of Barbera.
Explore Cooper’s award-winning wines, and join the Cin! Cin! wine club, or plan a visit to Cooper Vineyards where daily free tastings await, all at Cooperwines.com.
Cooper Vineyards is open from 11:00 to 4:30, Thursday to Monday, excluding certain holidays. Their last pouring starts at 4:00. They are located just five miles east of Plymouth at 21365 Shenandoah School Road, Plymouth, CA. Find them on Facebook at Cooper Vineyards or Cooper Wines, or contact them by phone at (209) 245-6181 for wine club, phone orders, or general information. No reservations are needed; it’s first come first serve, and no limos please.
Remembering the Godfather of Barbera
In loving memory of
Dick Cooper
Dick Cooper
IN LOVING
MEMORY
August 24, 1939 - July 9, 2021
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