DESTINATION
CANADA
We begin in eastern Alberta, where predators—as in dinosaurs—have roamed the Canadian Badlands for millions of years. We’ll explore Waterton Lakes National Park, where the Canada-US border is blurred by wilderness, and check in with Calgary, an emerging cultural destination. Then it’s on to Jasper National Park, where the dark sky dazzles and trails never end. British Columbia encompasses a marine habitat called “North America’s Serengeti.” We’ll float the entire Inside Passage coastline, and then head inland to Cariboo country. More surprises await in the Okanagan, a recreational oasis and home to more than two hundred wineries. We return to North Vancouver, a trending area with food trucks to foot trails.
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How does one choose an expedition in British Columbia? Check out North Vancouver if you’re craving a blend of B.C. urban-wild. Or simply slip into your kayak outside YVR and paddle north through the Inside Passage – though ferries, cruises and waterfront resorts will gladly assist once your arms tire! Road trip more your thing? Head on Hwy 1 to the Cariboo, home to mountain ranges, dude ranches and Barkerville, an 1862 mining town. Or point your compass eastward on Highway 1 to find the Okanagan Valley and its 200 wineries, miles of biking/hiking trails and Lake Okanagan. It doesn’t really matter where you set your sails, B.C. will blow you away.
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Few places on earth compare with Alberta. Calgary is home of the Calgary Stampede, hip neighborhoods and the National Music Center. Travel 90 minutes due east and ‘rock of ages’ takes on different meanings. Drumheller’s Royal Tyrell Museum is home to intact dinosaurs and 130,000 fossils. A few hours south, Waterton Lakes National Park sits on the southern border beside America’s Glacier National Park, where water, mountains and forests blissfully obscure political boundaries. To the north, Jasper National Park possesses spirit trees, five dozen mammal species and Canada’s best resort golf course. Whether you cut it into quadrants or travel deep as a fossil bed, the dazzling diversity in Alberta will astound you.
All That and More
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Featured adventure
Featured Adventure
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If I were a film director creating a movie set and I wanted to capture an icon of an industrial area turned cultural destination, I would choose the big yellow crane that hovers above The Shipyards on the Lonsdale Quay in North Vancouver. Located between new hotels, bustling shops, breweries and an outdoor stage, the cartoonish crane symbolizes The Shipyards history here on the North Shore. Industrial zones have made easy conversions from work zones to tourism boutiques all over the world, including Vancouver, where Yaletown's loading docks transitioned to terraces with great acclaim as the "go-to" neighborhood of the early 2000s. Now it's North Vancouver's turn with one important difference – the industry isn't going anywhere. From the sulfur mountains to the massive drydock, Lower Lonsdale is poised to capture grit-meets-gourmet more authentically than most destinations.
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Of course, North Vancouver itself is hardly a new discovery, the vista from downtown familiar to anyone who's viewed images of Vancouver with the background of snowcapped coast mountains appearing like a priest’s collar above the forest. For many decades, visitors have traveled across the Lions Gate Bridge or traversed Vancouver Harbour on the convenient Seabus en route to Capilano Suspension Bridge and Grouse Mountain, annual Top Ten Vancouver visitor attractions. A single bus ride (#236) from the Lonsdale Quay Seabus terminal conveys passengers to both attractions in about 25 minutes. The Capilano Suspension Bridge was considered Vancouver’s first tourist attraction in 1889 when it was first constructed above the 200+ foot chasm. This foray into preserved old-growth Douglas fir and western hemlock forest established the city as a gateway to big nature, a reputation that has never faded. (A Toronto Sun editor, when I asked her opinion of Vancouver, responded: "Vancouver is a very nice, um, setting.") The movie set like Capilano Suspension Bridge keeps adding characters, most recently the Cliffwalk entices explorers to step away from the ledge onto cantilevered arcing walkways that also hover above the Capilano River. Treetops Adventure, located across the suspension bridge, invites me to channel my inner ewok and walk through the magnificent trees like a painter poised upon scaffolding in nature’s cathedral.
The Capilano Suspension Bridge’s environs are hardly an environmental island, however. Brown and black bears regularly stroll through the adjacent neighborhoods, wolves have been spotted and the tangled forests provide, simply put, ideal cougar habitat. However, interactions are extremely rare and, with proper caution, a visitor walking the popular trails is quite safe. Many local hikers take to the Capilano River Regional Park trails, a leisurely 4-mile stroll that will cost you only a few calories. Whitewater kayakers launch from just below the fish hatchery parking lot and a more strenuous stroll can be had on the 5-mile Capilano Pacific trail from Cleveland dam to Ambleside Park by the harbor. There’s even a free suspension bridge, in Lynn Canyon Park, not far from Mt. Seymour. True to its wild nature, Lynn Canyon Park is home to fabulous waterfalls and the popular 30-Foot swimming hole. Mt. Seymour Provincial Park offers several days of adventure without the cost of a tram or encounters with tourist shops. Here, the rigorous 14-mile Elsay Lake Trail carries you deep into the backcountry without really even leaving North Vancouver. Bring your bug spray and reserve an overnight hut early. Should Mt. Seymour sound a little too “out there,” a trip to the Grouse Mountain summit couldn’t be easier, unless that is you choose to climb the infamous Grouse Grind, a 1.8-mile trek straight up the face of the mountain, the equivalent of 2,830 steps.
Most visitors plan a more leisurely ascent, stepping onto the Super Skyride for an 8-minute ride 4,100-feet in the air to an area that could best be described as a “Jack and the Beanstalk” sequel. There are actually two giants here, Grinder and Coola, rescued grizzlies that live in a five-acre habitat. If you crave still more views after dining or lounging in the Peak Chalet, walk up to the Eye of the Wind, a 20-story, 360-degree viewing pod attached to the wind turbine that powers much of the area. It's al fresco all the time at Grouse, where you can take a chairlift, go paragliding, ziplining or even ride on the roof of the Super Skyride! Once upon a time, visitors would head to Capilano Suspension Bridge and Grouse Mountain then retrace their steps to downtown without leaving so much as a breadcrumb. Today those-in-the-know have discovered enough gingerbread houses on the North Shore to plot a complete holiday tale. There are so many great neighborhoods in Vancouver visitors often get stuck returning to the same locale visit after visit. The North Shore entices you to transition from tried and true lover to early adopter. The impetus for the conversion is everywhere, from the waterfront Polygon Gallery to The Gull Bar & Kitchen, former longshoremen haunt that reopened in 2018 to the delight of foodies and the younger bar-going crowd. Two different patrons told me, unsolicited, how they rolled their eyes when friends said: "meet at the Gull" only to be wowed by the new space.
Owner Phil Tapping isn’t some North Shore prospector from across the harbor either, his family has owned the building and operated the Gull for decades. He said it was just time for a change and, judging from the flow of people and energy, he is right. I sip on a “Gull-Tini” while sampling smoked salmon cured in-house and a beet salad, followed by herb marinated chicken with jalapeno glaze and a pint of “In Them Mountains” IPA from nearby BEERE Brewery, part of a brewery boom that’s fast approaching one dozen spots. (I was so enthralled with BEERE that I got up and wandered down by the docks of the city for a tasting flight there.) As every reviewer knows, brewery and breakfast culture define an up and coming town or neighborhood these days. I’d sampled the brewery but, for me, breakfast would prove the ultimate test. Enter Lift Bakery, that ideal milieu of freshly baked goods and locally sourced scrambles. I opted for the veggie hash (heritage hash adds pork hock), and a still steaming strawberry scone. The terrace seating shadows the sloping street outside the historic corner building. I follow up breakfast with a visit to the Polygon Gallery, a waterfront contemporary art space with a focus on photography, so to speak. This should surprise no one familiar with the Vancouver School of photographers, cited for establishing the urban realism image artform on the west coast.
Satiated with breakfast and art I meander around the docks for a spell, explore the Lonsdale Quay Market, home to soap makers and produce purveyors, then take to a dog-filled path in Ambleside Park before returning to the Pinnacle Hotel at the Pier, the pioneer property that, judging from the teeming bar and restaurant scene, is also having its moment. Like the Pinnacle and the Gull, there are many establishments here that, though reimagined, have long remained committed to the North Shore culture. Fishworks, where I dine my final night, is yet another example. The oysters are fresh, the New England clam chowder decidedly Pacific Northwest in flavor, and the Fishworks Bouillabaisse exactly the rich ticket for a night when, like most of my weekend, I’m only a couple of blocks downhill to my waterfront hotel room. Though the harbor front is rapidly filling in, the upscale SeaSide Hotel is opening this year, the Shipyards will add several locally renowned shops and services, anyone questioning the once and future roots here can simply look past the Tap & Barrel terrace and even that big yellow crane where, as its always been, a giant BC Ferry remains in drydock playing daily host to welders and riveters.
Vancouver neighborhood merges modern amenities with ancient wilderness
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The young sow sprints through the sedge grass, repeating her steps and swimming strokes from where she began just minutes ago, pausing occasionally to jut her snout in the air, apparently to confirm that her quarry, a large male brown bear, lingers upwind. For 30 minutes, this young female has traversed the estuary without rest, driven by hormones and perhaps other endorphin-stimulating factors in the spring air to mate. Less than one hour away by boat, a pod of migrating orcas rises slowly above the glass-calm surface, a series of glistening black arches in the day’s fading sunlight. This is the British Columbia coastline, habitat of one of the most diverse populations of large mammals on earth. One esteemed biologist has called the region “North America’s Serengeti.”
The 21-million-acre Great Bear Rainforest ecosystem sustains the largest biomass on earth, from a thriving population of migratory and resident humpback whales in the Great Bear Sea to microorganisms and an array of complex plant life. The ancient forests, comprised of Sitka spruce, western red cedar, western hemlock and other 1,000-year-old trees, is home to wolves, the marbled murrelet and, of course, the Kermode, or Spirit Bear, the white-furred black bear. Not surprisingly, the GBR remains the largest intact area of coastal temperate rainforest on our planet. What is surprising is how many ways we can choose to visit this and the other fantastic coastal regions that form the B.C. coast. From wilderness lodges to a small boat cruise, a road trip to a helicopter to a newly launched B.C. Ferries route, there’s a mode of experience for everyone who wishes to bask outdoors in the lap of pristine wilderness and uninterrupted adventure. Many areas of B.C. coastal culture and natural history do not require traveling very far north. Located one ferry ride and a 3-hour drive from Vancouver, the district of Tofino sits at the end of the road, a trail that conveys travelers through the Cathedral Grove old growth forest, over the Sutton Pass, and beside Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. It’s rare to visit Tofino and not meet someone who “came here once, went home, sold everything and moved back permanently.”
Long before the current wave of starred restaurants and luxurious lodging arrived, Charles McDiarmid had the vision to create one of North America’s most spectacular accommodations, the Wickaninnish Inn. Perched above the rocky shoreline, The Pointe Restaurant and Ancient Cedars Spa reside so near the surf that an occasional wave splashes across the bay windows. The Wick provides instant access to Chesterman Beach, often listed among the continent’s finest beaches. Chesterman is well-known globally among surfers who don their wetsuits to ride the reliable break. Visitors can take lessons and book a board, kayak or standup paddleboard for exploring the cove at their leisure. The ocean is never far away when traveling between Tofino and Ucluelet, located 37 miles south of Tofino. This once-sleepy fishing village is beginning to show up often on visitor itineraries for its “undiscovered” charms. Pacific Rim National Park Reserve offers the finest survey of this stunning ecosystem. A visit often begins with a greeting from a Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations guide, who also schedules interpretive walks during peak season. Stroll along the soft umber trail formed of decomposing cedar bark and then onto the beach and tidal islands that formed, like the Broken Islands in Barkley Sound beyond, when huge volcanic rocks, a consequence of tectonic plate shifts, tumbled into the sea. The Nuu-chah-nulth also lead trips to the sacred Broken Islands archipelago.
The Pacific dictates life here, be it deep sea fishing for halibut and salmon, zodiac tours to sea lion colonies or astoundingly beautiful winter storms that swell upon the sea and bash against the coastline to the delight of safely sequestered observers. Tofino is arguably the birthplace of winter storm appreciation/tourism, and several lodges, including Long Beach Lodge, Ocean Village Resort and, of course, the Wick, take full advantage of the occasionally tempestuous seascape. “Fresh catch” restaurants also abound, beginning with the historical Schooner but now encompassing culinary craft to rival Vancouver or Seattle. Wolf in the Fog established Canada’s “remote resto” reputation here. The fabled potato-crusted oysters are just one example of chef Nicholas Nutting’s insights. The Ice House Oyster Bar remains true to its name, and options like Kuma Tofino and SoBo speak to the region’s Pacific Rim influences. Even if you don’t stay at the Wick, dinner or brunch at The Pointe should be a given, but be sure to book early. B.C.’s varied coastlines, from the Pacific Ocean to Inside Passage, Desolation Sound to the Gulf Islands, invite us to study a finite locale rather than survey a broad expanse. Fortunately, the province is home to the finest array of wilderness lodges on earth. As its name suggests, Great Bear Lodge launches us into the Great Bear Rainforest. Situated in Smith Inlet at the mouth of the Nekite River estuary, the floating lodge offers access to fall grizzly feeding upriver as well as aforementioned spring observations of mating, among other behaviors.
Once exclusively a world-class fishing lodge, Nimmo Bay Resort has evolved into a luxury hub for wilderness immersion via the resort’s fleet of helicopters. A daily itinerary may begin with “forest yoga before waterfall,” followed by bear viewing, natural and cultural history tours through the Broughton Archipelago, a picnic lunch on a glacial peak and, yes, fly-fishing on a classified (as in exclusive access) river, all followed by a cedar-planked salmon dinner and whisky or wine around the fire pit at the end of the dock. Farther north, the Haida-owned Ocean House hosts guests who are drawn to the mythical Haida Gwaii archipelago, an exclusively indigenous culture. Guests fly into Ocean House, Nimmo Bay Resort and Great Bear Lodge, a journey in itself. There are many other lodges that can be easily accessed by boat or car. Located on Quadra Island, just a short ferry from Vancouver Island, Taku Resort provides pet-friendly A-frame beachside cabins, beach house suites and even a few camping plus RV sites. After exploring Desolation Sound by kayak or zodiac, visitors can come together for cooking classes using local ingredients. Maple Leaf Adventures takes a different approach to wilderness immersion, specifically sailings upon their 24-guest Cascadia catamaran, the 8-guest Maple Leaf sailing ship and the 12-guest Swell, a converted tugboat. Each vessel is outfitted with kayaks and a zodiac, along with an onboard naturalist to complement plenty of sublime downtime in the schedule.
Travelers are often surprised to learn that a section of British Columbia is actually called the Sunshine Coast, a benefit of the “rain shadow” formed by Vancouver Island’s mountains, which stall the clouds and trap much of the rain. The Sunshine Coast is easily accessed via ferries in Horseshoe Bay, just outside Vancouver. At Rockwater Secret Cove Resort, a series of full-service tent-alows peeks out over Georgia Strait from the conifer forest, the kayaks await occupants at the beach and divers cast off upon prearranged charters for the HMSC Chaudiere Artificial Reef Site, one of the finest submarine habitats on the west coast. Farther north along the Sunshine Coast, Painted Boat Resort features multiple tours from the onsite marina into Princess Louisa Inlet and Francis Point Provincial Park, among other nearby environments. The dense B.C. forests don’t so much stop at the coastline – they simply pause, often giving way to massive kelp forests, then reemerge upon the thousands of islands. The cedar, spruce and fir trees ultimately make their last stand on western Vancouver Island. Like the forests, the inlets, bays and sounds are so numerous here that it’s common to see feeding brown bears, jumping salmon, the shimmering dorsal fins of whales and the iconic trapped vapors that so often shroud the rainforest. This is where nature still holds sway over visiting humans – a breathtaking wilderness that changes our breathing patterns as well as our perspective.
Coastal B.C. as Varied as It Is Vast
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Call it a travel cliché, but you can’t really believe the Canadian Okanagan exists before you see it. It depends on your personal definition of “El Dorado,” but if a destination with more than 300 days of annual sunshine, 182 wineries, hundreds of miles of spectacular trails, exceptional restaurants and, oh yes, one 84-mile long lake sounds like your idea of bliss, it’s time to start planning your own Central B.C. expedition. The South Okanagan Valley actually surrounds another lake, Osoyoos, which is bisected by the American-Canadian border and lies about five hours’ drive from Seattle. A one-hour flight from Seattle leads to Kelowna, the Okanagan’s largest city. Whether you get here by car or plane, you’ll discover a summer’s worth of activities among the vineyards, shorelines and surrounding mountains, which, come winter, offer some of the best skiing and snow play in Western Canada.
Though it is arid and sun-filled, the Okanagan is not technically a desert, offering more of a Mediterranean climate: think hot summer days and cool nights, ideal for al fresco dining, evening fire pits and, naturally, winemaking. The Okanagan was once the stone fruit capital of Canada, and there’s even a town called Peachland to prove it. The valley’s emergence as a premier wine growing region paralleled its rising reputation as a holiday destination for North Americans and visitors from across the oceans. If one winery reflects this growth best, it would certainly be Mission Hill, a vineyard that began producing high-quality ice wines and now claims several of Canada’s most prestigious vintages. Mission Hill’s proprietor, Anthony von Mandl, always intended his winery to provide a full visitor experience, and he has created a source of Tuscan-infused dreams replete with rotating art exhibitions, movie set aesthetics and gorgeous terrace dining overlooking the vineyards and lake below. The bell tower, containing hand-forged bells from Annecy, France, rises 12 stories above the sunken amphitheater, host to a popular summer concert series that has seen artists like Tony Bennett perform. The demonstration kitchen glistens as brilliantly as the bells shimmer in the tower. Mission Hill takes full advantage of this cuisine craftwork by hosting culinary workshops and The Long Table Series, one of those “pinch me, I’m invited” kinds of affairs that showcase Mission Hill Reserve wines and locally sourced fare. If you can’t make the Long Table, never fear – the Terrace Restaurant is open daily through September 30.
Several other winery restaurants now soar above the Okanagan Valley. The Red Fox Club, an indigenous winery founded by former Chief of the Syilx First Nation, Robert Louie, and his wife, Bernice, offers a modern take on locally sourced indigenous cuisine. The Vanilla Pod at Poplar Grove integrates other traditional culture into the local fare, adding Portuguese flair to a Mediterranean menu. Tinhorn Creek’s Miradoro sprinkles still more Mediterranean flavors onto the Valley, including wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizzas. It may sound counterintuitive for a getaway guide, but the Okanagan is one of those destinations where you really should just point your compass and go discover. Head north from the Kelowna International Airport, and you’ll come upon Vernon at the north end of Okanagan Lake. Though Vernon was once largely viewed as one of those pragmatic places you take your car to be repaired, something new and exciting revs up in the city about every minute these days. The fecund food scene, highlighted by pastries from Le Joie Cake & Dessert, Fish & Chips at Harry’s and cheese wheels at The Wedge, will soon see its first food tour, always a sign of serious culinary play.
Though artisan chocolates (Sweet Hoopla) and distilleries (Okanagan Spirits) may signal sweet and sophisticated changes, Vernon has never lacked for one ingredient: delicious outdoor adventure. Silver Star Mountain Resort, one of those exceptional aforementioned ski areas, will launch the gondola on its summer maiden voyage to provide dog-friendly sightseeing and hiking access. And oh, what access it is, given that the area is nestled into the 21 square miles of Silver Star Provincial Park, best traversed by biking and hiking trails. As any Nordic skier will tell you, during winter, when Silver Star becomes Canada’s premier cross-country ski destination, you can practically step right onto the park’s trails after stepping off the gondola. There’s so much serious adventure in the Okanagan that sometimes the thrills appear seemingly out of nowhere, like at Predator Ridge. Primarily known as one of the best golf resorts in western North America, Predator jumped onto the mountain bike map a few years ago by developing almost ten miles of single track. The resort recently kicked up more dirt by opening the Mantle Trail, an expert track with plenty of signature rock slab to ride as well as drops, spines and serious climbs.
You don’t have to be a dust buster to get your pedals spinning at Predator Ridge; just hop on the 30-mile Okanagan Rail Trail that wends beside the lake for half the distance and features over 40 points of interest, in addition to wineries, all within a quite manageable 1.3% grade. Shuttle services will drop you where you need to be, or you can hire a trail guide to provide support and insights into the area. Of course, it’s hard to ignore the wineries that line the trail. This being wine country, no one will think less of you for cutting your tour a little short to allow your tastings to go long. Be sure to ask about E-Bike wine touring too, a fun and manageable option for the whole family. A 30-mile rail trail would win the top pedaling prize in most places, but the relaxing Okanagan Rail Trail barely makes the podium here. The Okanagan Singletrack Trail conveys riders into the woods and through the meadows along the eastern ridgeline for 70 miles, from Vernon to Penticton. Then there’s the Kettle Valley Trail, aka the KVR, providing close to 400 miles of connected paths throughout the Lower Mainland from Hope to Castlegar.
The KVR, widely considered one of the greatest rail-to-trail projects in the world, crosses through two tunnels and 18 wooden trestles, some perched over 3,000 feet above gorges and valleys. What makes this trail so spectacular may have nothing to do with distance or scenery, however. The KVR, from the surface to grade, is truly accessible to everyone. Monashee Adventure Tours is one of more than two dozen adventure outfitters that rent bikes and provide shuttles. All you have to do is refill your water bottle and be on your way.
the Last Frontier of Wine Country Adventure
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More than anywhere else in this geographically diverse province, the Cariboo region of British Columbia features multiple extreme environments. From 8,186-foot-high Tsitsutl Peak in the Rainbow Range to the arid conditions and deep cuts of the Fraser Canyon, the area contains some of western Canada’s densest forests and sparsest prairies. The Cariboo is also home to the Secwepemc, Tsilhqot’in and Dakelh First Nations, as it has been for at least 10,000 years. Here also, grizzlies stalk the rivers as herds of caribou migrate the plateau, millions of wooded acres are home to epic trails and B.C.’s cowboy country occupies the shrub-steppe. All told, the Cariboo encompasses every element of what makes B.C. spectacular in its beauty and character.
Hard to imagine today, but the sparsely populated Cariboo occupied myriad minds back in the 1860s, thanks to Billy Barker's discovery of gold in Williams Creek. A mining boom followed as thousands of prospectors and “support” services flooded in to make fortunes – though, like most gold rushes, few folks actually did. Today these prospects still glitter as living history thanks to Barkerville, the most comprehensive western historic site in North America. Comprising an astounding 135 restored buildings, the town is “populated” daily by characters selling penny candy and other sundries in the stores, working the mine and generally bringing a “Deadwood” movie set to life. A Canadian National Historic Site, Barkerville also features a museum that houses the largest collection of Chinese emigration artifacts outside China. Horse lovers strike gold every day in the Cariboo, where a rich vein of guest ranches offer an array of equine options, from half-day rides to a 14-day horse packing adventure. After three days on the Bracewell’s Alpine Wilderness Adventures ranch, tending to your horse and exploring meadows rich with wildflowers and 75-million-year-old fossil beds, guides lead guests to their two-story cabin in the alpine for three more days of rides deep into the wilderness. Siwash Lake Wilderness Lodge invites you to disappear into the horseperson’s life by fitting all ages with a perfect horse to care for throughout the entire stay. Here you learn to groom, saddle and care for your equine companion, take lessons in the ring and head out on the fabled River Ride to walk, trot or gallop to your heart’s content.
Like Siwash, Echo Valley Ranch and Spa mixes up the adventures with sumptuous amenities such as fly fishing, mountain biking and, specific to EVR, the most beautiful spa in North America. The Ban Thai treatment house, designed by the King of Thailand’s architect, is a stunning structure erected from local cedar, hemlock and fir. You won’t quite believe your eyes when you see it, nor your ears when you hear about the four-hour, four-hand Thai treatments, ideal respites after your morning ride. Family style dinners, a pool and gorgeous local artwork throughout make Echo Valley a very special place to call home, if only for a few days. Much is made of the grasslands and mountains of the Cariboo for good reason, but the lakes add a certain sparkle to the natural mosaic. The three-armed, 103-square mile Quesnel Lake hosts everyone from multi-day paddlers to seasoned anglers. Of course, where there are fish there are grizzlies, so it’s no surprise the Mitchell River remains one of the best places on earth to watch these magnificent creatures. If you don’t believe me, just ask the “Bear Whisperer” at EcoTours-BC, a tremendous outfitter who will take you deep into bear country and bear lore. Come winter, heli-skiers at Silvertip Lodge access an outrageously sized area of untracked terrain. With water depth reaching at least 2,000 feet, the deepest freshwater fjord in the world is populated by wolves, moose, mountain goats, and caribou.
Back to the heli-skiing for just a moment, where every session a lucky sixteen fly in directly from Williams Lake, then split into two 8-person groups for days, sweeping the untouched powder courtesy of the lodge’s Bell 212 helicopter. Silver Lake Lodge is just one of the stunning timber structures providing basecamp for winter and summer play. Canadian Mountain Holidays (CMH), the world’s oldest and largest heli-ski operation, flies out of its Cariboo Lodge just over the ridge. In recent years CMH’s summer heli-hiking programs have caught up with their outstanding winter offerings, so much so that Cariboo Lodge was recently opened in the summer for the first time in years. You don’t have to book a five-star lodge to explore the Cariboo; just reserve your campsite in Wells Grey Provincial Park, the 2,000-plus square mile wilderness located in the heart of the Cariboo Mountains. There’s a ton to do in the park, especially if you like to hike. Wells Grey is probably most famous for its 41 (yes, 41!) waterfalls, including Helmcken Falls, at 463 feet the tallest in the province. Like most nature immersions, you’ll become a de facto expert in cataracts after visiting here, impressing friends back home by distinguishing punchbowls (Dawson) from plunge (Spahats) from tiered (Candle Creek) waterfalls as if they were bird species. Of course, where there are waterfalls there are usually rapids, so gear up for whitewater rafting or kayaking with Interior Whitewater Expeditions, Riverside Adventures or Liquid Lifestyles. A more mellow paddle awaits canoers who book Murtle Canoes or with BC Backcountry Adventures, the latter out of Wells Grey Guest Ranch. From hiking to scenic flights, mountain biking to fishing, just pick your passion and off you go.
The Cariboo is also packed with exceptional drive in, no reservation camping, though you should reserve a site on Bowron Lake, the starting point for the world-renowned 72-mile Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit, a crown jewel for devoted paddlers from around the world. If the 7- to10-day excursion is a tad too much J-stroke, just rent a canoe or kayak from Pathways or Sea to Sky Expeditions for a shorter 2-4 voyage or day trip. Speaking of expeditions, motorcycle touring is huge through the Cariboo, as are road trips and RV rentals. Something about driving into the "Land Without Limits," a combination of mountain passes, prairie flatlands and forested roads, just calls out to the road hog. British Columbia is home to 203 indigenous communities. Whenever possible, acknowledge and support these First Nations by visiting and supporting a local indigenous community, a life-changing experience for many. Tucckwiowhum, a Nlaka’pamux village, is located just off the Trans-Canada Highway 1 in the Southern Cariboo, a vibrant cultural center with smokehouse, pit house and sweat lodge, among other traditional structures. The round homes provided shelter from fall to spring, the design both energy efficient and reflective of the surrounding environment. The Nlaka’pamux people share cultural insights here that remain as relevant today as when elders first passed down stories thousands of years ago.
The Cariboo unfurls before you with the vibrancy of the annual caribou migration. Whether casting for rainbow trout after jet boating up the Mitchell River from Quesnel Lake, taking part in an earth oven cookout at Tucckwiowhum, or traveling a Wells Grey trail through virgin forest, this land will excite, fascinate and embrace you.
B.C.’s Cariboo Offers Infinite Visitor Possibilities
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Adventurous thrills are all well and good, but sometimes what we want most out of a vacation is simply some time to unplug and unwind from the daily stresses of modern life. With Rocky Mountaineer, relaxation takes over from the moment you step aboard. Every aspect of your journey is carefully curated for maximum comfort, from the plush seats to the five-star onboard dining. And once you step off the train, there’s a whole multitude of peaceful destinations to keep you cradled in the lap of luxury, from alpine spas to hot springs to valley wineries. Here are ten ways to Relax with a capital R on your next Rocky Mountaineer adventure in the Pacific Northwest and Canadian Rockies.
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1. Sit back and watch the scenery pass by. Train travel is inherently relaxing, and Rocky Mountaineer brings the ultimate in luxury and comfort. From the soothing outdoor vestibule to the expertly mixed cocktails, every moment on your journey is designed to maximize relaxation. So settle in, and watch some of the world’s most beautiful natural landscapes sail quietly past your glass-domed car. 2. Go spa-hopping in Vancouver. Vancouver is rife with fabulous spas just waiting for you to indulge. Why pick just one? Head to Willow Stream Spa at the Fairmont Pacific Rim for stunning panoramas of Burrard Inlet from their fifth-floor terrace before indulging in the Japanese Zen tub and a seaweed and thermal salt scrub. Then mosey over to the Greco-Roman-styled Spa Utopia at the Pan Pacific Hotel for a signature aromatherapy massage. Top off the day with a chocolate-vanilla body treatment at The Spa at the Wedgewood Hotel. Aaaah, bliss.
3. Spend the night in a tree sphere. Yes, a tree sphere. For a night unlike anything you’ve ever experienced, the Free Spirit Spheres of Vancouver Island beckon. Hop on the ferry from Vancouver and venture into a coastal rainforest oasis dotted with three custom-made spherical tree houses equipped with beds and bathrooms. What’s more tranquil than being nestled in a maple tree, swaying softly to sleep? Not much. 4. Enjoy culinary excellence on the go. Rocky Mountaineer’s GoldLeaf guests are invited downstairs each day on the train for breakfast and lunch in the elegant dining car, while SilverLeaf service enjoys their meal right at the seats as the scenery passes them by. Sit down with a glass of wine and let internationally trained Executive Chefs Jean Pierre Guerin and Frédéric Couton wow you with their fabulous dishes inspired by local ingredients. Five-star dining without even leaving the train? Talk about comfort food… 5. Find your bliss in Jasper, Alberta. The alpine town of Jasper, tucked between snow-capped peaks and winding glacier-fed rivers, is an excellent place to unwind Rocky Mountain style. At the Mountain Wellness Day Spa, you can indulge in a three and a half hour Rocky Mountain Rejuvenation package with a heavenly honey, milk and lavender bath, a tension-relieving aromatherapy massage, a facial, and a sumptuous warm milk and flower petal mani-pedi.
6. Soak your cares away in the Canadian Rockies hot springs. Banff Upper Hot Springs, Radium Hot Springs, Miette Hot Springs: take your pick. Each Rocky Mountain hot spring has its own unique blend of minerals, gases, and temperature, and each guarantees some serious relaxation. Spend a day soaking amidst the beautiful alpine surroundings, and feel your worries melt away. 7. Get pampered at the Scandinave Spa in Whistler. This tranquil haven, tucked into a spruce and cedar forest on the edge of Lost Lake in Whistler, BC, is the perfect place to unwind even further after a day on Rocky Mountaineer’s Rainforest to Gold Rush route. Spend the day meandering through the famous spa’s hot and cold baths, eucalyptus steam room, thermal waterfall, and wood-burning Finnish sauna. End your day in a hammock on one of the spa’s many terraces, overlooking Whistler’s incredible mountain vistas. 8. Take a sunset cruise in Elliott Bay. Seattle’s historic waterfront is especially gorgeous at sunset, framed by the great Olympic and Cascade mountain ranges in the distance. Hop on one of the many sightseeing ships, grab a cocktail, watch the light fade, and feel the coastal breeze on your face before or after feeling the mountain breeze of the Canadian Rockies onboard Rocky Mountaineer’s Coastal Passage route.
9. Luxuriate by the lake at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Located inside one of the Canadian Rockies’ most famous and most luxurious mountain resorts, the Spa at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise brings relaxation to new heights. After a day of outdoor activities, step inside this peaceful sanctuary and indulge in a foot massage or a facial before dinner at one of the hotel’s fantastic onsite restaurants. 10. ‘Wine-d’ down in Okanagan Valley. This lush and stunning valley is home to over a hundred wineries, and produces some of very best wines in the world, some of which are served on your Rocky Mountaineer journey to help you relax even further. From Gray Monk Estate to Summerhill Pyramid to Tinhorn Creek, you can spend a day sipping award-winning vino paired with fabulous local cuisine while looking out at the rolling hills stretching into oblivion. Take a leisurely drive back through the Rockies towards the Okanagan following your journey on the train. Cares? What cares?
1. Sit back and watch the scenery pass by. Train travel is inherently relaxing, and Rocky Mountaineer brings the ultimate in luxury and comfort. From the soothing outdoor vestibule to the expertly mixed cocktails, every moment on your journey is designed to maximize relaxation. So settle in, and watch some of the world’s most beautiful natural landscapes sail quietly past your glass-domed car. 2. Go spa-hopping in Vancouver. Vancouver is rife with fabulous spas just waiting for you to indulge. Why pick just one? Head to Willow Stream Spa at the Fairmont Pacific Rim for stunning panoramas of Burrard Inlet from their fifth-floor terrace before indulging in the Japanese Zen tub and a seaweed and thermal salt scrub. Then mosey over to the Greco-Roman-styled Spa Utopia at the Pan Pacific Hotel for a signature aromatherapy massage. Top off the day with a chocolate-vanilla body treatment at The Spa at the Wedgewood Hotel. Aaaah, bliss. 3. Spend the night in a tree sphere. Yes, a tree sphere. For a night unlike anything you’ve ever experienced, the Free Spirit Spheres of Vancouver Island beckon. Hop on the ferry from Vancouver and venture into a coastal rainforest oasis dotted with three custom-made spherical tree houses equipped with beds and bathrooms. What’s more tranquil than being nestled in a maple tree, swaying softly to sleep? Not much.
4. Enjoy culinary excellence on the go. Rocky Mountaineer’s GoldLeaf guests are invited downstairs each day on the train for breakfast and lunch in the elegant dining car, while SilverLeaf service enjoys their meal right at the seats as the scenery passes them by. Sit down with a glass of wine and let internationally trained Executive Chefs Jean Pierre Guerin and Frédéric Couton wow you with their fabulous dishes inspired by local ingredients. Five-star dining without even leaving the train? Talk about comfort food… 5. Find your bliss in Jasper, Alberta. The alpine town of Jasper, tucked between snow-capped peaks and winding glacier-fed rivers, is an excellent place to unwind Rocky Mountain style. At the Mountain Wellness Day Spa, you can indulge in a three and a half hour Rocky Mountain Rejuvenation package with a heavenly honey, milk and lavender bath, a tension-relieving aromatherapy massage, a facial, and a sumptuous warm milk and flower petal mani-pedi. 6. Soak your cares away in the Canadian Rockies hot springs. Banff Upper Hot Springs, Radium Hot Springs, Miette Hot Springs: take your pick. Each Rocky Mountain hot spring has its own unique blend of minerals, gases, and temperature, and each guarantees some serious relaxation. Spend a day soaking amidst the beautiful alpine surroundings, and feel your worries melt away.
7. Get pampered at the Scandinave Spa in Whistler. This tranquil haven, tucked into a spruce and cedar forest on the edge of Lost Lake in Whistler, BC, is the perfect place to unwind even further after a day on Rocky Mountaineer’s Rainforest to Gold Rush route. Spend the day meandering through the famous spa’s hot and cold baths, eucalyptus steam room, thermal waterfall, and wood-burning Finnish sauna. End your day in a hammock on one of the spa’s many terraces, overlooking Whistler’s incredible mountain vistas. 8. Take a sunset cruise in Elliott Bay. Seattle’s historic waterfront is especially gorgeous at sunset, framed by the great Olympic and Cascade mountain ranges in the distance. Hop on one of the many sightseeing ships, grab a cocktail, watch the light fade, and feel the coastal breeze on your face before or after feeling the mountain breeze of the Canadian Rockies onboard Rocky Mountaineer’s Coastal Passage route. 9. Luxuriate by the lake at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. Located inside one of the Canadian Rockies’ most famous and most luxurious mountain resorts, the Spa at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise brings relaxation to new heights. After a day of outdoor activities, step inside this peaceful sanctuary and indulge in a foot massage or a facial before dinner at one of the hotel’s fantastic onsite restaurants. 10. ‘Wine-d’ down in Okanagan Valley. This lush and stunning valley is home to over a hundred wineries, and produces some of very best wines in the world, some of which are served on your Rocky Mountaineer journey to help you relax even further. From Gray Monk Estate to Summerhill Pyramid to Tinhorn Creek, you can spend a day sipping award-winning vino paired with fabulous local cuisine while looking out at the rolling hills stretching into oblivion. Take a leisurely drive back through the Rockies towards the Okanagan following your journey on the train. Cares? What cares?
If I had visited Drumheller when my kids were still in their dino-obsessive phase, I would have returned to Seattle, scooped them up and returned to the Alberta Badlands. In short, the Royal Tyrell Museum’s collection of original (and intact!) dinosaur bones is so impressive, it’s actually pretty easy to imagine the stegosaurus, triceratops and tyrannosaurus rex roaming outside without a hint of Jurassic Park computer-generated imagery. It’s a little harder to fathom that when these giants were stomping about, this environment looked more like the Pacific Northwest than Alberta prairie. My perception of precious finds is hardly exaggerated: the Tyrell collection holds more than 130,000 fossils! Though a Drumheller excursion begins and ends in this exploration of epochs, I discover there are plenty of other reasons to spend 24 hours here.
Located less than 90 miles from Calgary, the Badlands don't really begin until you descend into this town of just 8,000 people. The Lakota labeled this inhospitable landscape mako sica, literally translated as “land bad.” The French-Canadian voyageurs picked up on this theme, labeling these contours les mauvais terres pour traverse, “bad lands to travel through.” From South Dakota to Alberta, the moniker has stuck. Fortunately, a series of trails behind the Tyrell Museum today offer a rather easy, if undulating, stroll. This labyrinth of paths, which would be awesome to take on by gravel-tire or mountain bike, follows the contours of the mounds and avails an expansive vista of the Red Deer River Valley and the surrounding geography. Prairie dogs scamper from den to den as the western meadowlark’s whistling-warbling song bounces off the walls of the small canyons. Music shows up in other, more surprising places around Drumheller, like when WayneStock rocks, rolls and twangs out over Labor Day. The Friday-to-Sunday gathering is one of those local festivals that now draws those in the know from impressive distances. The same could be said for the Last Chance Saloon, a destination dive bar and the host site of WayneStock. The Last Chance Saloon is adjacent to the Rosedeer Hotel, once the rooming house for hundreds of miners employed by the Rosedeer Mine. The saloon was opened to extract yet more scrip from the miner’s monthly paycheck. The ploy worked. The bar scene, aka “bucket of blood,” ignited nightly fisticuffs among the two thousand miners who called Wayne home. The mine closed in the 1930s. Today, Wayne's population hovers around 30 residents.
You cross nine of the “Eleven Bridges to Wayne” to make it to the Last Chance, each span taking you farther from your worries and closer to this “damn, I’m so glad we made the effort” place, a low-ceilinged room where rusted license plates dangle from the ceiling and assorted outdoor implements wrestle for wall space with yellowed photographs and antique signage. The outside bar (more license plates) in the back serves the patio, no doubt the location of choice to watch weekend bands perform from the adjacent WayneStock stage. Established in 1913, it’s hard to imagine the saloon’s western façade is ever free of Harley Davidsons stacked in front of it. One dozen motorcycles are tethered to the post when I visit, the bikers already having taken all the rooms when I tried to book one. Satisfied with my bison burger and local ale, entertained by conversations with the Edmonton Motorcycle Club, I traverse the Rosebud River once more en route to two other landmarks, a set of hoodoos and the historical suspension bridge. The Drumheller hoodoos arise like a small colony of prairie dogs, poking out in front of a stratified rock formation that also invites exploration. Crocuses bloom at the foot of the hoodoos, another example of just how hard nature works to gain rootholds wherever it can. Though small in number and stature, these “fairy chimneys” appear seemingly out of nowhere, the only known hoodoos in the area.
One may visit San Francisco without crossing the Golden Gate Bridge or New York City without traveling to the Statue of Liberty, but one should never pass through Drumheller without saving at least a few hours for the Royal Tyrell. It’s good to dig a little deeper into the experience, so to speak. Looking at the activity inside the Preparation Lab, I’m curious how many kids got the paleontology bug here at some point and never looked back. There’s just so much “WOW factor” here, from the massive T-Rex body, the skull too heavy for attachment, to several full bodies found in the ancient riverbeds or after some catastrophic weather event. The 76-million-years-old Gorgosaurus libratus, its tail elevated and neck bent at almost 180 degrees, likely drowned during a flash flood. What must the thrill of discovery be like to excavate the “Royal Crown” of Regaliceratops peterhewsi, or to sweep away that first horn of the 63-foot-long, 220-million-years-old Borealopelta markmitchelli, the “best preserved armoured dinosaur in the world.”
In short, you won’t find bigger rock stars on the planet than at the Tyrell. Yet the museum’s mission covers much more than insanely cool original Cretaceous critters. “Grounds for Discovery” features specimens unearthed during industrial work, an interesting study considering how often it’s a bulldozer and not a scientist’s scalpel that detects treasures across the world. “The Cretaceous Garden” describes what was once coastal Alberta, “Terrestrial Palaeozoic” takes us on a stroll past some of the crazy insects and amphibians that inhabited the region, and “Ice Age” and “Mammal Hall” further the conversation about earth’s evolution and our subsequent role in it. With more than one dozen exhibits, it doesn’t take much to spark one’s imagination and, I discover that night, affects one's dreams. For years, Albertan friends had expressed dismay when I revealed that I’d never visited Drumheller, given my affection for and interest in the natural world. They spoke of the sublime badlands landscape, the western vibe and, of course, how the Tyrell stands alone among the world’s finest paleontological museums. Yet I had always turned a deaf ear. As for so many of us, my compass consistently pointed toward the Canadian Rockies playground, where I could ski, mountain bike and photograph wildlife. After spending a day in Drumheller, I am ready to join the chorus and urge everyone to make plans to travel very far back in time.
Drumheller Revels in Simpler Times
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As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Alberta’s Waterton Lakes National Park carries plenty of political significance, but it’s the beauty of the place, a pair of lakes sunk beneath almost one dozen Rocky Mountain peaks, that deserves the most attention. The only Canadian national park to abut an American counterpart, Glacier National Park is just beyond the third peak from the village. Waterton rarely receives attention due mostly to its provincial peers, Jasper National Park and, especially, Banff. I’m no different, having explored Banff and Jasper on countless occasions, but I’ve been drawn to Waterton for several years, not just for its geographical coexistence. Backpackers often traverse the two countries several times because of the rumored majesty of a massive lake dressed in jagged peaks.
Unfortunately, the peaks were shrouded in low clouds, but the mountain necklace was brilliant upon its unveiling that evening during the prolonged late May sunset. The rain had also ceased about 20 minutes into my 2.5-hour Bertha Lake hike, and the wind had departed the valley, doubling the peaks via their Waterton Lake reflection. A village resident claimed these were the calmest conditions he’d ever seen at this time of year. The international boundary absorbed by wilderness adds a mystique to this region. Nature cares not one lick about political borders, bald eagles, or bighorn sheep, and grizzlies sweep effortlessly back and forth without a second thought. Several local boating companies offer "inter-nation tours" that include a brief visit to Goat Haunt, Montana. No passport required, unless you plan to disembark and hike back into Canada or continue into Glacier National Park. (Arrangements must be cleared with U.S. Customs and Immigration first.) The Goat Haunt visit is also subject to park staffing, though just sailing between the two countries feels liberating in some way and, given the majesty of Mts. Alderson, Vimy, and Boswell, each laced with vernal waterfalls, one can almost forget the reality of political borders.
Waterton’s relatively small size, just 195 square miles (Banff is 2,564 square miles; Jasper, over 4,000 square miles) is part of its charm. Like its counterparts parks, Waterton contains an iconic hotel. The Prince of Wales sits high on the bluff, yet appears unpretentious when compared with Banff Springs, Chateau Lake Louise or even Jasper Park Lodge. Built in 1927, the rustic-style inn is considered one of Canada’s grand railway hotels; however, unlike its Canadian Pacific Railway peers, the Prince of Wales was constructed by the Great Northern Railway, an American company. Listed as a National Historic Site of Canada, the seven-story wooden structure barely escaped the 2017 Kenow Wildfire, when over one-third of the park burned. Though the outside aesthetic suggests a Swiss chalet, the interior remains reminiscent of a Scottish Highlands manor. Employees wear the Stewart tartan, and high tea is offered daily in the cavernous lobby. Excellent rare Scotch is served inside the stately Windsor Lounge and my lunch within the Royal Stewart Dining Room consisted of Cullen skink, a hearty Scottish stew of haddock and other smoked fish. Fortunately, not every amenity is historical: the Blindman Brewing ‘LongShadows’ IPA tastes excellent.
After lunch, I drive into Waterton Park, a quaint village by popular national park standards. Yes, you can find your stuffed moose festooned in a maple leaf sweater here, but there are only one or two such shops. The Tamarack outfitters, founded in 1922, provides excellent gear should you need a pair of rain pants and toque to keep you dry on your hike. In addition to guiding services, the family-owned store offers shuttles from the village to each of the many trailheads. In addition to hundreds of miles of trails, Waterton is a Dark Sky Park. The four Robinson brothers offer third-generation guiding services for stargazing through their Dark Sky Guides tours. Blakiston & Company will take care of all your paddling needs, as well as lessons and guiding services. Though I visit after the Canadian May long weekend and before the onset of summer, it’s hard to imagine motor coaches lined up like rush hour here. There are several rustic hotels. The Bayshore Inn Resort and Spa, the only shoreline property, offers mostly lakefront rooms. The Bayshore resort includes a fine dining restaurant, café, coffee shop, and pub as well. The walkable village is also free of bar scenes and breweries, though the Thirsty Bear can kick it up on weekends.
There’s an impressive diversity of dining options as well – and that goes for chefs too. The Lakeside Chophouse captures the romantic mood, as does the Fireside Lounge and Wine Bar. Families will find quite good pies at Pizza of Waterton and a cool, diner-themed menu inside Zum’s Eatery & Mercantile, among other choices. I’ve arrived a few days before the guiding services open on June 1. I’m on my own to choose and complete my own excursion. The paved, 5.5-mile Kootenai Brown trail looks like a blast to zip along by bike – there are also several outstanding mountain bike trails – but I’m on foot this time, so I choose the popular and convenient Bertha Lake Trail to Upper Bertha Falls. Rushing spring streams cross the trail in several areas, though the path remains firm now that the rain has passed. The floral succession after fire remains one of nature’s most exquisite brushstrokes. Stands of lodgepole pine cast away their ebony scabs to reveal the smooth bark below, a sign of persistent life. Green shoots peek from charred, hollowed-out stumps along the length of this moderate three-mile ascent, and carpets of glacier lilies unfurl across the embankment while solitary common butterwort stand triumphant in purple splendor. The first paintbrush has appeared and massive lily leaves suggest the spectacle to follow. I notch the mid-June Waterton Wildflower Festival on my mental to-do list. The falls themselves are so robust with spring runoff, the mist saturates my jacket, the “greatest spray on earth” to a cascade fanatic.
My lunch waiter, Bayardo, a Torontonian who started working seasonally here eight years ago, told me not to miss Red Rock Trattoria and, given his big city cred, who am I to doubt him. With house-made pasta and a tasteful intimate ambience, the only reminder that this Italian restaurant is situated in a national park comes when several deer arrive just outside the two doors and back window to peer in at the menu, or perhaps to lick salt off the stoop. Fortunately, venison is not on offer. The clouds part a little broader next morning when I depart for Calgary three hours north. More mountain peaks appear and then suddenly disappear – the Rockies, being so young, have fewer foothills than the Cascade or Sierra Ranges. I’m back on the prairie now, undulating glacial hills that roll along like lazy waves. Driving to Calgary, I wonder why it took me so long to explore Waterton Lakes National Park, an astounding landscape with no borders to disrupt the flow of nature.
Waterton Lakes NP cozies up to USA with astounding beauty
A ShaREd
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The Calgary dialectic continues. Home to one of Canada’s best food scenes, new breweries/distilleries/cideries by the minute and all those complementary urbane amenities, “Cowtown” still features permanent rodeo grounds in the heart of the city. Here, white cowboy-hatted greeters meet you at the airport and a cowboy has ridden his horse to the top of Calgary Tower; there, neighborhoods like Inglewood showcase coastal-inspired boutiques like Knifewear Calgary, a specialty cutler shop with few peers this side of Tokyo. And let’s not forget mile upon mile of cycling trails, kayaking or angling in the serpentine Bow River as well as an international airport hub that keeps adding direct flights. You would think the old Cowtown moniker would start to fade, except that the airport greeter hats come from Smithbilt Hats on 11th Street, five Lammle’s Western Wear shops spread out across the city and the Calgary Stampede, the world’s largest rodeo, keeps on getting bigger.
A certain bias often operates against old Calgary, when cowboys and oilmen roamed the streets, but I took my mother to the Stampede five years ago. Having foaled four score Belgian draft horses over four decades in New York’s Finger Lakes region, for years she’d dreamed of attending the granddaddy of western carnivals. From Draft Horse Town to the Rodeo and Evening Show featuring contemporary country stars (I admit all foreign to me), I surveyed the Stampede through the appreciative gaze of my mother. We never made it to Midway or other carnival fare, but I came away convinced everyone should check out the Stampede at some point in life. The ample Stampede grounds occupy a significant portion of the southwest quadrant of downtown, though one can easily visit Calgary without encountering a horse, cowboy hat or saddle today, save for the Saddledome, the city’s arena and home to the sacrosanct Calgary Flames NHL club. Every winter’s tale is scribed by the fortunes of the 1989 Stanley Cup champions. You would think attending a Flames game, every fan dressed in red, would help cement a certain perspective on this city of 1.3 million. Yet even the team’s name suggests a duality, adopted from the defunct Atlanta Flames when they moved north. Today, after the home team scores, “refinery flames” shoot from just below the arena roof, practically singing the hair of those sitting in the nosebleeds (and press box!)
The team’s colors bleed onto 17th Avenue SW, “The Red Mile,” after home games. These days, 17th Ave doesn’t require a playoff run to conjure up energy all along this row of mostly independent bars and restaurants from cantinas like Chilitos Taberna and Tropical Latin Street Food to the Trolley 5 brewpub, Neapolitan pizza joints to lounges and dance clubs. The strip is especially lively when the spring thaw unfurls the terraces – sooner for locals than for visitors who might not consider the 45-degree “heatwave” a cause for al fresco festivities. A more refined evening awaits along the Stephen Avenue Walk, aka 8th Avenue SW, a converted car-free pedestrian zone that works. Home to Summer Stage, i.e., one-hour concerts at noon, and the Galleria Trees, among other outdoor artwork, terraces encase the street creating a robust dining scene. Klein/Harris, Blink and SALTLIK Calgary represent a Calgary culinary scene that has risen steadily over the last decade to take its place beside the triumvirate of the top Canadian foodie-focused destinations, Vancouver, Toronto and, dare I say it, even Montréal.
If you want to visit the birthplace of Calgary’s culinary ascendance, however, step into CHARCUT Roast House, created by co-chefs Connie DeSousa and John Jackson. Both left prestigious kitchen positions in San Francisco to return to Calgary in 2010 on a hunch that Cowtown would respond to a soulful reimaging of farm-to-table, tail-to-snout cuisine, where the meats are house-butchered and the preserves are put up each season. Think of CHARCUT as an organic, self-sustained prairie farm from early last century, only with much better cocktails. The awards came pouring in, and CHARCUT now anchors many Canada Top 10 Restaurants lists, prompting Connie and John to open charbar, an Argentinian-styled wood-fired grill-based kitchen, in the historic Simmons Building. Built of brick and exposed timber, the Simmons Building steps right out of a modern architectural magazine. The former warehouse also plays host to Phil & Sebastian Coffee Roasters as well as Sidewalk Citizen Bakery, an artisan bakery that sees lines out the door from breakfast straight through lunch. The Simmons Building anchors the East Village, one of those modern neighborhoods that assumes “if you brand it, they will come.” And come they are. The 152-room Alt Hotel recently opened across the street and condos are on the rise all around. Visitors and residents alike have discovered living between downtown, with its new incredible Central Library among other conveniences, and nature, as in RiverWalk, and 31-acre St. Patrick’s Island, is pretty swell indeed.
The East Village is also home to Studio Bell, the National Music Centre (NMC). What was once a dusty archive of astounding instruments transformed in 2016 into one of the most impressive celebrations of the audio arts in North America. Home to countless concerts, artist-in-residence programs and state-of-the-art recording studios, Studio Bell takes visitors on an interactive journey through 450 years of musical innovation via more than 300 instruments from rare classical instruments to the very piano Elton John used to compose all of his early hits. I tend to slide too quickly through museums when I travel, so I didn't think much of the 4–5 hour suggested visitor time at the NMC. Four hours later, I had barely made it to the "Bodyphonic” section located on the fourth of five levels. After poring over my musical heroes Joni Mitchell, Leonard Cohen and Neil Young while discovering a few new Canadian musicians along the way, it was time to rent a bike from Bow Cycle & Sports to embark on the Bow River Pathway to the Inglewood Bird Sanctuary & Nature Centre, one of several parks that surround the river. I eventually made it to Fish Creek Provincial Park where, though self-consciously attired in cycling garb, I worked through the Ploughman’s Platter at the refined Bow Valley Ranche Restaurant. Having imbibed a little too heavily in my charcuterie at the BVRR, I hop on the LRT back to town, return my bike and make my way to Inglewood and the funky Cold Garden Beverage Company. Filled with overstuffed sofas, picnic tables and enough dogs to start a kennel service, Cold Garden provided the perfect sendoff (amid excellent IPAs) from this formerly predictable prairie town that today spills over, suds and all, with vivacious and varied personality.
Calgary Riding High as a Go-To Destination
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Whenever I consider Jasper National Park in Alberta, my mind naturally travels to Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park, not because of the caribou herds – the rare woodland caribou is a Jasper resident – but rather because of their shared status as the “other” national park in their respective regions. Teton National Park sits due south of America’s first and most famous national park, Yellowstone. Jasper National Park sits north of Banff, Canada’s premier park both in stature and in history. The comparisons don’t end with geography and legacy either. Like Teton, Jasper offers a massive swath of stunning natural beauty to explore without the crush of visitors that create medium-sized cities out of their marquee neighbors. While nobody would ever describe Jasper as “off the grid,” a visit to this 4,200-square mile environment does come free of traffic jams, stop-and-go wildlife queues and most other consequences of over tourism.
Located just under four hours from Banff or from the closest international airport in Edmonton, the town of Jasper is large enough to have its own “Downtown Foodie” tour and, requisite for every alpine adventure town, boasts an award-winning brewery, the Jasper Brewing Company, the de facto town hall for locals and a great hub to gain local knowledge about preferred trails, wildlife viewing locales and all Jasper-related intel. The skillet-prepared offerings from Maligne Canyon Wilderness Kitchen suggest that Jasper is far from a culinary outpost. From the 16 Hour Slow Cooked Alberta Braised Brisket to Canyon Poutine with bison chili (there is also rich vegetarian fare), the menu, in tandem with fireside terrace tables and regular live music, nails the Jasper vibe. Natural vibrations get much louder just outside of town, where the wilderness stretches in every direction. Nearby, the Athabasca River Loop Trail shadows the shoreline for 17 miles, slipping seamlessly into the adjacent forest then returning to the teal-colored artery, its vibrant pastel surface a result of glacial “rock flour” suspended in this river as it travels toward the Arctic Ocean. The glacial melt also creates a wonderfully refreshing temperature, especially during the predictably hot and dry summer and early fall season days here at 3,500 feet above sea level.
Unlike at other points along its route, notably at 70-foot Athabasca Falls, the river meanders slowly through Jasper, a series of riffles that rarely exceed Class II rapids, ideal for young families and others who want to give whitewater rafting a first go. Of all the amazing family adventures that awaited us in the wilderness, my favorite was bopping down the rapids in an inflatable raft, the intensity of the whitewater second to the enjoyment of working together surrounded by natural froth beneath the sun. I took my kids on the Athabasca when they were five and eight years old, and I remain certain they had more fun in three hours on this natural rollercoaster than in two days at a certain Florida-based theme park. The river also plays a friendly host to novice and intermediate river kayakers as well as those in search of a brisk and thus quick dip. River play is just one of several recreational pastimes here, as hundreds of hiking and biking miles call as consistently as the ravens that circle overhead. Parks Canada describes Jasper mountain biking as “cruisy, cross-country fun” in the Jasper National Park Mountain Biking Guide, a worthy pick-up for single trackers. Unlike many national parks across North America, Jasper’s park service has embraced mountain biking, designating maintained riding trails with yellow triangular signs. (Unsigned trails are exclusively hiker/horse friendly.)
In town one year during the “shoulder season” for the annual Jasper Dark Sky Festival (Jasper is the second largest Dark Sky Preserve on the planet), I chose the Maligne Canyon trail for a crisp late-morning ride. I cruised the flowy, smooth, center-of-the-track pedal that transitions from plateau into a ride-high, gear-down challenge. The Maligne River, snaking towards the Athabasca far below, met me face-to-face upon descent. A quick face splash quenched and cleansed me simultaneously, the way only an alpine river can. The Jasper Park Cycling Association maintains the designated biking trails with keen custodial care. Cyclists will find every level of ride here, including the Wildland Trails like Magic Ridge and Razorback that serve up advanced, technical routes from the heights into the valley. I don’t suggest riding into Maligne Canyon, among the park’s most popular routes, during summer’s peak season, however. Similarly skilled and beginning riders will discover tons of fun in the five-mile Valley of the Five Lakes Trail, without a doubt among the most sublime routes in any park on the continent. The definition of flowy, this tour takes single track trekkers through gorgeous wildflower-strewn meadows, up gentle ascents and into the lodgepole pine and white spruce forests. The five bejeweled lakes beckon like Homer's Sirens for a dunk, or two, or five.
In addition to whitewater and miles of trails, Jasper presents more opportunities to view wildlife than most easily accessible environments on earth. Over 50 mammals roam this diverse habitat, and more than 180 bird species have been sighted here including goshawks and great gray owls, as well as grey wolves and brown bears. And vegetation appears infinite. Athabasca translates to “there are plants one after another” in First Nations Wood Cree. SunDog Tours and Maligne Adventures are two of several outfitters who offer preset group or customized wildlife viewing, often with outstanding results. My brief stays here left me, as a wildlife photographer, envious of peers like world-renowned shooter John E. Marriott who call this habitat home. From the first time I visited the Many Glacier Hotel in Glacier National Park as a child, I have remained enamored of the grand lodges in national parks. Banff Springs receives the most notice in the Canadian Rockies, but Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is my favorite. This is due not so much to the architecture – primarily cabins – but to the seamless fusion with the natural environment. JPL started as a tent camp, and the understated aesthetic remains. A few steps from my cabin, just past where elk reliably bed down for the night, I settled upon a floating deck that hovers over Lac Beauvert to watch the sky slide through blue hues as the moon dangled behind Mount Edith Cavell in the distance. In my humble opinion, this simple scene has no equal.
All That Canadian Rocky Nature without the Crowds
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Crisp autumn air greeted me the next morning when I teed off on the Jasper Park Lodge golf course. I quietly strolled past several elk, perhaps too young for the harems that form during rutting season. A devotee of alpine golf design, I felt no guilt about golfing rather than biking or hiking as I walked the famous Stanley Thompson track, a short 6,663-yard layout consistently rated among Canada’s Top Ten public courses and #1 resort course. Like the lodge, village and nearby Marmot Basin Ski Area, the golf course demonstrates there is room for diverse recreational amenities when the environment comes first. Whether seeing one’s first bighorn sheep, mountain goat or grizzly, watching the Tangle Creek Falls gush with spring runoff or listening to the bugle call of rutting elk in the fall, any day of any season here contains a roster of reasons why visiting national parks remains the very best travel idea.
Ah, the great Pacific Northwest. Prettier than a postcard, chockfull of history, teeming with natural thrills. And there is no better way to explore North America’s crown jewel than by train. Train travel is special because it’s more about the journey than the destination. Traveling by rail gives us the rare opportunity in this fast-paced modern world to sit back, relax, and, at least for a little while, disconnect from everyday stresses and obligations. After all, there is no sound more soothing than a train chugging along the tracks, no view more breathtaking than Mother Nature’s handiwork sliding by your window, no mystery more enchanting than who you might meet onboard.
Canada’s first prime minister, Sir John A. Macdonald, built the Canadian Pacific Railway in the 1880s, transforming Canada into a unified nation. Thanks to the CPR, Canada’s national park system emerged, along with a thriving tourist culture complete with turn-of-the-century luxury hotels. Today, the only way for passengers to travel the railway’s most mountainous routes by daylight is by Rocky Mountaineer, the world’s largest privately owned luxury tourist train. Since 1990, Rocky Mountaineer has been bringing the romance back to train travel, with a variety of carefully curated routes and packages through the Canadian Rockies and beyond. There are many reasons to take what National Geographic calls “one of the World’s Greatest Trips.” Here, we bring you ten of them. 1. Golden Era luxury. Harken back to the Golden Era of Travel, when moving about the planet took on a degree of glamour and romance long forgotten. Dress in your traveler’s best and leave the hectic pace of the world behind—this is your chance to unplug and unwind as you zip through verdant mountain passes, viewing the world from the comfort of your plush leather seat as you sip a glass of wine.
2. New friends at every bend. The uniquely leisurely pace of train travel brings travelers together in unprecedented ways. Whether sharing a tale with the person sitting next to you or mingling over three-course meals in the elegant dining car, it would be hard to depart from your train journey without making at least a few new friends. And who knows, that stranger sitting just a few rows away could just be your next true love. 3. A view worth a thousand words. There are many things to love about train travel. But perhaps the greatest of all, and the hardest to explain in words, is the view. Rocky Mountaineer’s all-dome fleet features oversized domed picture windows in SilverLeaf Service and bi-level glass-domed panoramas in GoldLeaf Service unparalleled views of the stunning scenery. From glacier-capped mountains to tumbling waterfalls, the majestic Canadian Rockies must be seen to be believed. 4. Wondrous wildlife sightings. Traveling through the rugged landscapes of the Canadian Rockies, you’re all but guaranteed to catch some pretty fantastic wildlife. The top five sightings from the train are bears, bighorn sheep, elk, bald eagles, and… Sasquatch. That’s right, folks, this is Bigfoot country! The legend of the Sasquatch began long ago, in the mid-19th century, when an explorer and trader reported being attacked by a “hairy humanoid” throwing rocks. Since then, many have claimed to see the beast. Will you be next?
5. A glimpse into history. No trip through the Canadian Rockies is complete without a detailed look into the area’s fascinating past. Rocky Mountaineer offers an exclusive chance to travel by daylight on the famous tracks that united Canada as a country. The onboard Hosts will regale you with secret tales of Canadian days gone by as you pass by a variety of notable landmarks, from the unifying railroad spike in Craigallachie to the unique little pioneer town of Spences Bridge. Without a doubt, it’s better than any history class. 6. Service with a smile. As one of the last bastions for truly impeccable service en route, Rocky Mountaineer offers only the best. Two levels of service, SilverLeaf and GoldLeaf, are available, but both provide complimentary alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, gourmet snacks, and delicious meal services throughout the journey. Onboard hosts are on call to be sure that every passenger’s needs are taken care of quickly, smoothly, and with a smile. 7. Culinary excellence. Put all your preconceived notions about travel fare aside. On a Rocky Mountaineer journey, you’ll eat only the very best cuisine, prepared fresh by chefs trained in Michelin starred restaurants in the train’s onboard kitchen. Inspired by each passing region, each carefully crafted menu features top-grade local ingredients, from prime Alberta beef to Pacific salmon.
8. Time to explore. No railway adventure would be complete without ample time for independent explorations and activities outside the train. Each Rocky Mountaineer travel package offers plenty of freedom to explore the stunning cities, towns, and natural wonders you’ll visit. Spend an evening bar-hopping in Vancouver’s vibrant nightlife scene, see the beautiful Lake Louise by gondola, go flightseeing by helicopter… the possibilities are endless. 9. A great night’s sleep. No cramped sleeper cars here. Each night of your Rocky Mountaineer journey will be spent in a hotel specially selected for comfort, luxury, and accessibility to local restaurants and attractions. From a modern waterfront high-rise in the heart of Vancouver to a castle-style mountain resort tucked into the alpine landscapes of Banff National Park, waking up refreshed is all but guaranteed. 10. Your own adventure. Whether you’re a nature lover, adventure buff, or culture vulture, there is a perfect railway experience for you. Choose from Rocky Mountaineer’s 65 different vacation packages covering four unique rail routes, including the newly upgraded three-day rail package, Rainforest to Gold Rush, and travel through iconic destinations from Seattle to Alberta. Stay overnight in stunning mountain locales like Whistler, and Quesnel, BC. The only question is this: what will your adventure be?
National Geographic called a Rocky Mountaineer rail journey one of the ‘World’s Greatest Trips.’ We couldn’t agree more. We’ve hosted over 1.7 million guests, with rave reviews about the magic and wonder of a train trip through the majestic Canadian Rockies.
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