The Upper Peninsula: Beer by Beer, Mile by Mile. A Craft Beer Lovers Brewery Tour.
more northern adventure. There’s nothing like the feeling of crossing the Mighty Mac!
On the clearest of days, you may catch a distant glimpse of the Grand Hotel. On those overcast, windy days your knuckles have never been so white. The slightest gust has your vehicle being pushed in a direction you don’t think it should go. On many occasions your significant other is ducked down in the back seat with the feeling of anxiety pumping thru their veins.
Ahhhhh, you made it. Toll is paid and instantly you feel you’ve entered the 51st State. All your worries and troubles are waiting for you back in Mackinaw City. Nothing ahead of you but miles on your car, new breweries, and nature like you’ve never seen.
This trip will start you westward. Although there’s nothing wrong starting eastbound and doing everything in reverse. Sit back, get comfy and enjoy the views of Lake Michigan and rolling dunes.
hether you’re heading north from Grand Rapids. Fleeing the hustle of Detroit. Leaving Traverse City for an even
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Two college buddies turned-entrepreneurs, Dane Bosel (left) and Andy Clouse, began their quest to produce quality homebrews as students at Northern Michigan University, first brewing in Clouse's apartment and post-college in Bosel's garage.
The Distant Whistle Brewhouse is known for its Pale Ales and IPA's, Loyal customers point to the brewery's ability to consistently produce a quality beer and its large selection of rotating taps as but a few of the reasons they keep coming back.
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WHISKEY POINT BREWING: AMERICA'S MOST REMOTE BREWERY
We spoke with owner and brewer Patrick McGinnity about what it’s like to run a brewing business so distant from the mainland.
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Project. These microbreweries are two different and separate companies but same ownership. She splits her time equally between both locations. As their first and only female brewer at these popular microbreweries, she is said to be a breath of fresh air in the world of craft brewing. These are two of the best places to be in the Metro Detroit Area to meet up and lap up a beer. They both have great atmospheres and plentiful beer selections made with tasty local ingredients.
They are perfect spots to go to after the Detroit Lions let you down. Rain or shine – it’s always pouring. In two vibrant communities, she helps brew beers for the masses to experience. Being able to create something out of raw grains that people can enjoy is a great feeling. Her favorite beers on tap are low ABV and crisp. They have clean, easy drinkability for a hot or cold day. Perfect for Michiganders who never know what to expect weather-wise, and perfect for health conscious, outdoor runners like Sudduth.
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Two college buddies turned-entrepreneurs, Dane Bosel (left) and Andy Clouse, began their quest to produce quality homebrews as students at Northern Michigan University, first brewing in Clouse's apartment and post-college in Bosel's garage.
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MiBrew Trail Magazine
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MIBREW TRAIL MAGAZINE
ISSUE 5, SUMMER 2021
We started doing Friday night tastings to get people in the door. That quickly brought breweries in. It was great for them. They got to showcase their special beers to people in an intimate setting. Friday night tastings became an event. It was one of the things that put us on the map early on.
— Tim Costello
Co-owner
Merry Band of Mistfits a Perfect Fit in Muskegon
Three “merry band of misfits"—have meshed their personalities and skills to be a perfect fit for Pigeon Hill Brewing Company.
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Ready for your first beer? We’re starting in Escanaba. The town experienced a boom in the early 1900’s. If it were 1914 you could plan on getting a room and stay the night at the Delta Hotel. Rooms which were once for rent, are now apartments sitting above a brewery. Hereford & Hops Restaurant and Brewpub, is located in the lobby of the Delta. If you were wondering, the brewery name comes from a breed of cattle. Usually there are seven beers on tap including the Light Haus Lager, St. Edmunds Porter and Redemption IPA. You can enjoy these brews while washing down a steak you grilled yourself. That’s right, prepare your own steak around the indoor charcoal grill. If you see the manager, ask for a quick peek downstairs. Once used as a Speakeasy below the Delta Hotel, CJ’s Lounge can be rented out for private parties. It’s like stepping into a time machine. A room that hasn’t been touched since it opened. Small booths, tables for two, and the original bar. Something out of an old gangster movie.
You’re now in the home of Michigan’s most western brewery. Cold Iron Brewing. If you didn’t already know, “look south” on a map. You’re further west than the most eastern edge of Iowa. Cold Iron you can choose between the Black River Dark Ale, Drift North IPA, Drift South Jalapeno Pale Ale and many more. No matter which brew you order here you won’t be disappointed.
Onward and upward! North we go into the Keweenaw Peninsula. There are four breweries ahead of us while here. One being a top 10 destination brewery for me. Before you get there, start off in Houghton at Keweenaw Brewing Company. This is not just a college town, it’s also a beer town. KBC is one of the top production breweries in the state. I’m positive you’ve seen Widow Maker Black Ale, Pick Axe Blonde Ale, and Red Jacket Amber Ale on store shelves throughout the state. There are many others on tap at the brewery.
KATIE LYNN TO THE RESCUE
Chicago native Katie Lynn may not sport a cape or possess superpowers, but as far as a Traverse City brewery owner is concerned the longtime food and beverage professional is in a class by herself.
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WHISKEY POINT BREWING: AMERICA'S MOST REMOTE BREWERY
We spoke with owner and brewer Patrick McGinnity about what it’s like to run a brewing business so distant from the mainland.
READ MORE
Merry Band of Mistfits a Perfect Fit in Muskegon
Three “merry band of misfits"—have meshed their personalities and skills to be a perfect fit for Pigeon Hill Brewing Company.
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CHICAGO NATIVE KATIE LYNN TO THE RESCUE
Katie Lynn may not sport a cape, but as far as a Traverse City brewery owner is concerned the longtime food and beverage professional is in a class by herself.
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WHISKEY POINT
BREWING: AMERICA'S
MOST REMOTE BREWERY
Merry Band of Mistfits
a Perfect Fit in
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KATIE LYNN TO THE
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Check out Hearst’s newest brand showcasing Michigan Breweries at MiBrewTrail.com.
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Check out Hearst’s newest brand showcasing Michigan Breweries at MiBrewTrail.com.
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Escanaba also has Upper Hand Brewery. Here you’ll feel like a true Yooper. With beer names like Deer Camp Lager, 906 Red Ale, and Escanaba Black Beer Dark Ale, you know where you’re at. The brewery has a definite log cabin feeling inside. Upper Hand is a sister company of Bell’s out of Kalamazoo. Brewed and bottled on site, grab a 6 pack to take home or to Deer Camp!
On your way to Menominee, a fifty-five mile drive south along the western shore of Lake Michigan, you’ll find Three Bridge Brewing Co. I truly enjoy being able to talk with many different brewers and brewery owners in my travels across Michigan. I’ve found each come with a different story on how they ended up making beer for a living. At Three Bridge it was no different. It’s one of the most unique stories. Kris, the owner and brew-master was on his way to a PHD in Neuroscience. After getting fed up with big pharma and the direction it was taking him, Kris changed course and followed his other passion. Thankfully for craft beer lovers he did so. His Golden Stein Bavarian Lager, Dragon’s Blood Imperial Irish Red, Rise Up Marzen Lager, & Druidic Moon Smoked Maple Stout are all great!
90 minutes northwest of Menominee, your next stop will be 51st State Brewing Co. Located in Kingsford, this is my favorite brewery name along this trip. Why you ask? Again, that’s what the Upper Peninsula feels like to me. Possibly the best craft beer and pizza combination in the state! Family owned and operated. Victoria (mom) may take your beer order, and Ben (son) may serve it to you. All the while Jeff (dad) and brew-master is overlooking the operation. Their wood fired stove cooks the pizzas to perfection. The 12” is supposed to serve 2-3 people. Ha!!! This one was all mine. Washed down with an easy drinking 3 Vagabonds Lager, My Neighbors Wife IPA, & Primordial - Lithuanian Farmhouse Ale. 51st State will be one of the highlights on your trip!
Next, we’re on to Alpha. “The Smallest Village In America With A Brewery!” Here you’ll find… you guessed it Alpha
Michigan Brewing Co. 35 miles northwest from Kingsford. These two breweries make for great back to back stops. Their Krystal Koelsch, Blood Orange Saison, Porter School Porter, & Bear Cave IPA were a great way to end my night. There’s a very strong community feel here. Everyone knows everyone and made this Troll feel right at home.
Leaving Alpha and heading west, the next beer destination is Ironwood.
Also in Houghton, Copper Country Brewery located inside The Library. I truly enjoyed the burger & beers here. It has a great corner bar feel.
A little further north, in the town of Calumet is where you’ll find Michigan House Cafe & Red Jacket Brewery Co. Here they only brew 4 in house beers. Although their beers hit the spot, you quickly realized this stop is more about the history, food, and atmosphere. I highly recommend going hungry, the menu is outstanding. I chose the 8oz Black & Blue burger. Made to perfection and topped with blue cheese. The Keweenaw Cowboy IPA and Smooth Trail Pale Ale paired well after a day out riding the trails.
The Michigan House Cafe which was opened by the Bosch
Brewing Company in 1905, feels like you’re walking into another time machine. Cozy and quaint are two of my favorite adjectives, and that’s how it felt sitting at the bar.
If you’re looking for something off the beaten path, Calumet Brewery Ruins are a short 3-mile drive from Red Jacket. Opened in 1897, this brewery made many different beverages with water supplied from a local creek properly named Brewery Creek. Today there’s not much left of the building. You can park on the shoulder of Tamarack Waterworks Road, step thru a few feet of brush and stand inside 4 walls that once housed another U.P. brewery.
Copper Harbor is a short 1990 miles from Miami, FL. Trust me, the sign says so. Home of Brickside Brewery, where there are usually 8 beers on tap with others bottled to take home. Stone Ship Stout, Uphill Both Ways IPA, Brickside Bete Gris Wheat Beer, and Walter’s Weizen are some of the favorites. It’s always a tough choice when I drive into town.
It’s time to head south. Down M41, which will take you all the way into Ishpeming. Home for two U.P. breweries. After the 135-mile drive, Cognition Brewing Co. is the next stop for beer. After a tumultuous 2020/21, Cognition has closed their location inside the Mather Inn and are moving to a new spot in Marquette on 3rd Street. Once that’s up and running they will focus on opening a new Ishpeming location. I’ve had quite a few of their beers over the past few years. Really liking the Scene of the Climb Stout, Kindred Spirits Coffee Porter, Gnome Wrecker Belgian Style Pale Ale, and Chough Pub English Ale. Although new and exciting things are on the horizon at Cognition, it’s sad to see this brewery have to relocate.
Before we head out to Marquette, don’t miss out on another brewery. Jasper Ridge Brewery. Go hungry, I did! I was in the mood for some comfort food and found it here. Their Shepherd’s Pie was absolutely delicious, but almost too much for me to finish. ALMOST! Lucky for me their hand-crafted beers helped wash the food down my gullet. The Slugworth Chocolate Stout, & Attack Penguin IPA did the trick.
You’re only 25 miles away from the next brewery in Copper Harbor.
In 2018, the fourth brewery opened in Marquette, Barrel + Beam. I will just say it now. Barrel + Beam is my favorite brewery in the entire state! This is where you’ll find Michigan’s best bottle-conditioned farmhouse & barrel-aged ales. Most beers you drink are not bottle conditioned. They’re carbonated through a process called forced carbonation. Basically, CO2 is pumped into a sealed container. The term “bottle-conditioned” means, after the initial fermentation the beer is bottled flat and fresh yeast or priming solution made of Michigan beet sugar are added to the beer. This allows for the beer to ferment again. The benefit is all the oxygen that trapped in the bottle gets consumed by the yeast creating a very shelf stable beer. This is where the carbonation happens. If you ever wanted to age a particular beer this is the style for you.
B+B chose a building with a rich history in Marquette. Originally the Northwoods Supper Club. It opened in 1934, before the restaurant closed in 2007. In that time the build aged and fast. Holes in the roof, snow falling through to the floors. Making a lovely home to many pigeons and squirrels. Still with plenty of work ahead for them, B+B has turned a large part of the building into my favorite brewery in the U.P.!
Probably the most well-known brewery in the U.P., Blackrocks never disappoints. From MYKISS IPA to Trenary Toast Lager the list of outstanding beers here never stops. Including Presque Ale Pale Ale, 51k IPA, Barbaric Yawp Scotch Ale, Flying Sailor Red Rye IPA, and Coconut Brown Ale. I’m asked all the time to name some of my favorite Michigan brewed beers. One from Blackrocks is always near the top of my list. GNOMAS Barleywine!
After your beers and meal are finished it’s a short drive into Marquette.
Walking distance from Blackrocks is the second brewery on 3rd Street Superior Culture. Without a doubt the most unique beverages you’ll sip in Marquette. Honey Booch Pale Ale has a blend of kombucha, UP honey, lemon, and basil. Birch Beer made with actual birch bark. No Joke! Citra Hopped Jun differing from kombucha, its base ingredients are green tea instead of black tea. Adding to my list as a must stop each and every time I’m in Marquette!
Ready for some really, really good food and beer of course? Head to Marquette’s oldest brewery. The Vierling Restaurant
and Marquette Harbor Brewery. This building has stood for over 100 years and has been brewing small batch beer since 1995. The Vierling has some of the best food in town including the freshest, most tasty whitefish I’ve had. Their Plank Road Pale Ale and Laid Back IPA paired perfectly with my meal.
For many years, one of Marquette’s craft beer staples is the perfectly named Ore Dock Brewing Co. Another building that has been standing for well over 100 years, Ore Dock has a great community feel. In the warmer months you’ll find rotating food trucks out front serving up great tacos, pizza, or burgers. I’ve been here multiple times since they opened in 2012. Loving each and every time I’ve stopped in! With beers like the Serrano Saison Spiced/Herb Beer, or Chief Hopper BIIPA, and the Peels Out Pale Ale, Ore Dock will become one of your favorite U.P. beer makers.
Marquette Brewing Cooperative or Drifa Brewing, is the first member-owned microbreweries in the state. Ever want to own a small piece of a brewery? Look them up, they’re still accepting members. Located in south Marquette, Drifa’s beer garden offers a great view of Superior while you sip their delicious beers! Like, Goat Horn Pale Ale, Nuclear Submarine Power NEIPA, and Intolerant Milk Stout are just a few of the pours I’ve had here.
In the same building that once was Chocolay River Brewery, now is home to Lake Superior Smokehouse Brewpub. A great restaurant with all the meats! Fill up on the usual 8 beers made in house or choose from their many guest taps. Brisket sliders say hello to a Blueberry Wheat, and a pour of the Grasshopper IPA.
Adding to the delight of seeing one of America’s most stunning shorelines is beer. Munising, now home to two craft breweries. East Channel Brewing Co. being the original. As you sip on a Final Mile Red Ale or the Widdle Stick Smore Stout there are decisions to be made. How are you going to view Pictured Rocks? Jump on the ferry? Take a guided kayak tour, or paddle around on your own? Go out and create or own adventure. Just make sure to grab a few 16oz. cans of beer from East Channel Brewing Co. before you do so.
ByGeorge Brewing Co. is another success! Munising’s second brewery is in high demand during the peak months. Which to me are January thru December!
The final stop on your way out of Marquette is in Harvey.
On my first visit here I started with the Meenie Tangereenie a tropical Milkshake IPA. My second pour was the Perro Muerto IPA. Tradition West Coast style. They share a roof with Driftwood Deli. Great Paninis to fill up on before you find yourself on an adventure. Turkey Apple was my choice. Both breweries are just steps away from Lake Superior.
Adding to the amazement you’ll get from seeing Pictured Rocks is another brewery. At the very north-eastern edge of the lakeshore you’ll find Grand Marais. Home to Lake
Superior Brewing Co., inside the Dunes Saloon.
Next on the tour is where Michigan’s only brewery is located on state owned land. Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub. You’re now in Paradise both literally and figuratively. Enjoy the fall, but also sit back and enjoy a Harvest Wheat Pale Ale, Black Bear Stout, or a Porcupine Pale Ale.
Sault Saint Marie is home to three breweries. Soo Brewing Co. was the one stop in town that I met the most locals. This was part of the same late December trip thru the U.P., so maybe they were all huddled up inside trying to stay warm. Personally, I think it was the beer. Tannenbaum IPA and 13 IPA were the two I had here. The best part of this stop was meeting and talking with the wonderful folks that call The Soo home.
1668 Winery & Lockside Brewery, offers a great mixture of beer, wine, and delicious food. The name comes from the year Father Jacques Marquette founded Sault Ste. Marie, 1668. I washed down my burger with their Tiramisu Stout and Ojibway IPA. They also have an on-site art gallery to enjoy. Grab whatever beverage you decided to order and peruse.
Lastly, Superior Coast Winery & Brewery is inside of Karl’s Cuisine. Alongside of a delicious Honey Whitefish sandwich, I decided to order a flight here. The four beers included 447 Ghost Pumpkin Stout, Holiday Brown Ale, Bricklayer ESB Extra Special / Strong Bitter, and my favorite Ashmun Creek Blonde Ale.
Heading a little bit further east, your next stop is Sault Ste Marie.
Your trip is nearing its end. Our second to last stop is 35 miles directly south of the Soo, in Cedarville. This is where you’ll find Les Cheneaux Distillers. Spirits, beer, and food Oh My! I fell in love with their Dark Side of the Brew Stout and Island Hopper IPA. Distillers doing beer right!
The final beers on your epic brewery tour will require a stop in St. Ignace, and jumping on a boat. Whether you choose Shelper’s or Star Line, get onboard for a trip across the Straits of Mackinaw. 2020 brought Michigan’s second island brewery and the first to Mackinaw Island, Great Turtle
Brewery and Distillery. Once off the ferry grab your luggage, grab your bike, then grab a beer! Four in house brews with plenty of guest taps. Pedal Fast IPA, No Cars Allowed Cream Ale, Hoban Street Stout, & Mackinac Summer Sour. All are extremely crushable!
Well, there it is! With roughly 1200 miles on your vehicle, plus more on your bike and kayak, you’ve accomplished one helluva brewery tour!
Having touched on every brewery, I’ve barely scratched the surface on what the Upper Peninsula has to offer. I implore you to go explore. Meet the wonderful people that call the U.P. home!
Go out and create your own adventure. Just make sure you stop for beers along the way!
PHOTO BY STEVE FARR
51st State Brewing Co.
Cold Iron Brewing
Michigan House Cafe & Red Jacket Brewing Co.
Barrel + Beam
Blackrocks
Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub
The Upper Peninsula: Beer by Beer, Mile by Mile. A Craft Beer Lovers Brewery Tour.
MIBREW TRAIL MAGAZINE
ISSUE 5, SUMMER 2021
BY Kevin McKinney from Michigan Brewery Review
BY Kevin McKinney
from Michigan Brewery Review