When nine-year-old Mark Hoover mixed Welch’s grape juice with his mother’s baker’s yeast and stashed the concoction in the garage, he had no idea he was fermenting his future. The foamy result ignited a passion that prove to be just the first step in Hoover’s journey. This January, his Val du Vino 2022 Barbera claimed the Red Sweepstake Medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, earning Best in Class honors for Barbera above $40 and rising above 5,500 wines from 950 North American wineries.
The victory is even sweeter considering it’s only Hoover’s second vintage working with the varietal. But for Hoover—who studied winemaking at UC Davis before spending more than 30 years perfecting his craft as an amateur winemaker—success has been brewing since that first childhood experiment.
In 2015, with a handful of enthusiastic partners, he finally turned professional with Integrity Wines, building a reputation for excellence on the coast. Six years later, the need for a larger production space led him to Val du Vino in Murphys, California, a move that would challenge Hoover to adapt his coastal winemaking style to the distinct character of the Sierra Foothills.
Grapes, Grit, and a Little Serendipity: The Story Behind Val du Vino
Val du Vino’s historic barn-turned-tasting-room is the only working winery on Main Street in Murphys.
Born and raised in Santa Cruz, Hoover developed his winemaking style on the coast. His early wines reflected this heritage: structurally strong, lower in alcohol, with pronounced acidity.
But Integrity Wines’ Watsonville location became too cramped. “We did most of our crush work out in the parking lot,” Hoover recalls. “We needed more production space and wanted a better tasting room.” The opportunity arose when friends discovered a property in Murphys. “They called and said, ’We’ve got this fantastic property we want to get, but unfortunately, it’s got this winery on it.’”
By June 2021, Hoover and a few committed partners acquired Val du Vino Winery. With it came a crucial lesson from the outgoing owners: “Do not bring your coastal style to these wines or you will lose your club members.”
Transitioning to the Sierra Foothills climate demanded a different philosophy in the vineyard. Summer days can hit triple digits and nights cool only to the 70s, so the wines develop their own character: riper fruit, more alcohol. The rhythms of long, hot days and warm nights coaxed the best from Spanish, Italian, and Rhône varietals. “It was a style shift, but you learn to go with the flow,” Hoover says of his new venture.
But it wasn’t as easy as just starting another winery. Val du Vino would soon face an unexpected challenge.
A Harvest Worth the Struggle
2022 Val du Vino Winery Barbera
2023 Val du Vino Winery Roussanne
2023 Val du Vino Winery White Dragon
Val du Vino’s historic barn-turned-tasting-room is the only working winery on Main Street in Murphys. Built in the 1880s, the building, long a feed and grain store, found its calling as a winery in the 1980s. Through the windows, visitors glimpse oak barrels and production equipment—living history in action.
Inside the rustic exterior, Hoover applies cutting-edge techniques learned through decades of research and experimentation. Hoover’s unique emphasis on cooling technology, particularly crucial for white wines, transforms a week-long fermentation into a 30- or 40-day process. It is designed to capture as many aromatics and as much complexity as possible.
For red wines, Hoover’s approach is equally methodical. “All the good stuff is in the skin, not the juice,” he explains. “The juice is basically just sugar water.” His cold-soaking techniques extract flavors and aromatics before fermentation begins, allowing precise control over the wine’s development. “You’re getting a lot of flavors early,” Hoover says. “That phenolic extraction, extracting all the flavors, flavonoids—all the good stuff—without going into fermentation.”
My team and I make each and every varietal, sometimes from different AVAs, in a different way. We don’t boilerplate every wine. We make each varietal the way that varietal wants to be made while honoring its terroir.
— Mark Hoover, Ownwer of Val du Vino Winery
Between his two wineries and four others he makes wine for, Hoover oversees production of more than 40 wines, but he refuses to take a one-size-fits-all approach. “My team and I make each and every varietal, sometimes from different AVAs, in a different way,” he says. “We don’t boilerplate every wine. We make each varietal the way that varietal wants to be made while honoring its terroir.” His 2023 Integrity Riesling also garnered Best of Class.
This philosophy extends beyond single-varietal wines. While Hoover began as a purist—“kind of a wine snob,” he admits—Val du Vino taught him the art of masterful blending. These carefully crafted blends have become some of the most popular wines in the lineup.
The wines occupy a sweet spot in the premium market, priced lower than their quality might command. “We’re committed to over-delivering on value,” Hoover says. While this positions these bottles above everyday table wines, it creates an opportunity for wine lovers to experience exceptional quality at fair prices.
The Best Way to Celebrate?
A Visit to Val du Vino
Inside the time-worn barn, the cooling systems hum, the barrels rest, and visitors sample wines from both Val du Vino and Integrity. It’s a place alive with both history and possibility.
Val du Vino welcomes visitors Thursday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. at its tasting room at 634 French Gulch Road in Murphys. Wine club members can choose between four, six, or twelve bottle memberships, each offering quarterly shipments and exclusive access to pre-release wines. Members enjoy benefits at both Val du Vino and sister winery Integrity Wines. Private Elevated Tastings for small or large groups are also available. For information or to schedule a visit, call 209-728-9911.
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2023 Val du Vino Winery Viognier
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A Tale of Two Climates
In May 2022, two waves of frost hit the Sierra Foothills, devastating vineyards across the region. Many growers lost their entire harvest, including Val du Vino’s Amador County source for Barbera. “We needed to zig and zag to find new sources for about five or six wines,” Hoover recalls. Their search led them to Airola Road Vineyard, a Calaveras County vineyard with Barbera. It was a fortuitous pivot for Val du Vino and the grower.
“We suspected we had something special about a year into it,” Hoover says. The Calaveras Barbera revealed a darker, richer character that set it apart from anything they’d seen in their Amador fruit.
This approach to sourcing speaks to Hoover’s philosophy on grower relationships: “Growers start what we finish,” Hoover explains. “We highly respect what they do and don’t really want to have anything to do with it. And they respect what we do and they don’t want anything to do with it: so we work really well together,” Hoover laughs.
Where Tradition and Technology
Ferment Together
Letting the Grapes Decide
SHOP AWARD-WINNING WINES
2022 Val du Vino Winery GSM
2022 Val du Vino Winery Three Cousins
2022 Val du Vino Winery Zinfandel
Calaveras County
Amador County
Calaveras County
Sierra Foothills
Calaveras County
Calaveras County
Calaveras County
2023 Val du Vino Winery Viognier
