SUN
Valley
Yes, Sun Valley’s legacy carries on without question, one a select few North American destinations that can claim to be both an 8-decades old pioneer and a consistent perennial favorite. One reason Sun Valley remains on so many Top Ten winter destination lists is the effort to add new elements on and off Bald Mountain. Next season Baldy’s skiable terrain will grow by 380 acres, turning out new bowls, cutting fresh glades and opening several sublime chutes. The lines will run off the Seattle Ridge, traditionally known for its off-peak novice areas. Sun Valley Heli Ski invites guests to draw their own lines. Like Dollar and Baldy, Sun Valley Heli Ski both pioneered American heli-skiing and keeps improving on its half-century legacy. World-class guides lead us into tenure that spreads across three distinct mountain ranges. Like the expansive heli zones, more than 120 miles of groomed trails await classic and skate cross-country skiers. The cross-country and snowshoe trails course throughout the valley and, like the alpine routes, span a kaleidoscope of experience levels.
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18
220"
9,150"
5,750"
2,054"
skiable terrain
lifts
summit
average snowfall
base
Daily Nonstop Flights to Sun Valley from San Francisco, Seattle, Los Angeles, Denver, Chicago and Salt Lake City.
paragliding
SnowShoeing
Skiing & Snowboarding
The Sun Valley day lodges are also the best around, from “peak-side” Seattle Ridge to Lookout to the Roundhouse mid-mountain and Baldy base-based Warm Springs and River Run day lodges. Kick out of your skis, relax, refuel and revel in another perfect day. You may be surprised to find a wood-fired oven at 8,800 feet, but that's exactly what's cooking inside the Seattle Ridge Day Lodge. No cafeteria queue here, even the salads are custom-crafted. Head up 350 feet to Lookout Lodge and you'll discover an ideal perch for your midmorning break as you plot your day or an afternoon perch from the expanse of deck, site of best Baldy vistas. “Meet us at the Roundhouse” has been a common afternoon phrase since 1939, the quintessential day lodge serving fireside fondue among other midday or après favorites. Located adjacent to the Roundhouse Express gondola, you can easily offload after well-earned libations or upload to meet friends for dinner overlooking the valley. Also located mid-mountain, Averell’s suggests old school dining, think Swiss fondue, classic cocktails and framed valley views, perfect for a mid-day pause or evening retreat. More single tree timber beams, river rock and floor-to-ceiling windows await base-side at Warm Springs Lodge. In addition to breathtaking architecture, Warm Springs covers daily needs like rentals, retail, coffee, and cuisine. The new granite-top bar faces west (The sun!) so sets up perfectly for après ski rendezvous over local ales or, if the day's shred movement so moved you and your pals, a little “Shotski” celebration. The River Run Day Lodge offers yet another relaxation zone, with diverse culinary options from wood-fired pizzas to wok-fired stirfry, as well as patio pauses and fireside lounging. Over on Dollar, Carol's Lodge serves up long-held family favorites like mac and cheese, pizza and grilled burgers. This being Sun Valley, you'll find still more lodge options off-mountain, from the intimate Trail Creek Cabin to the Sun Valley Club, among others.
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What’s In Your Bag? A Sun Valley Primer
Your lodging special is booked, your quick connecting flight is all arranged and you’ve made a reservation for the Full Moon Dinner at Galena Lodge, it’s time to settle in and start dreaming about your first or repeat visit to Sun Valley. You might want to set your screen saver to the Bald Mountain area map to start plotting your turns. Kaitlyn’s Bowl or the Picabo’s Street? Lunch at the Lookout or après inside the Roundhouse? No pressure on planning though, if you're the type of skier or snowboarder who likes to tackle whatever comes your way then pick your line and start ticking off the 18 lifts at your upload disposal. (With a base over one mile high, however, now’s you may want to start working those legs and lungs for what’s to come.) Fortunately, Sun Valley’s consistently dry snow allows for easy turns through powder dreams. The world's finest ski resorts are as much about the experience as they are about carving downhill. Famously laidback, no one here will judge should you choose an afternoon to soak in one of several outdoor heated pools, indulge in a treatment or three inside the Spa at Sun Valley, or shop ‘til you drop at the well-curated Brass Ranch Village luxury shops. Perhaps winter fly fishing or fat tire biking is how you wish to define your “break day?” Not a problem. Whether closing the saloons after a night of two-stepping to a live C&W band or stepping into custom-fitted boots from first chair to last run, visiting Sun Valley invites you to turn on your ‘I love winter’ light and let it shine as bright as the sun.
MORE FROM SUN VALLEY
Nothing says World Class winter destination like convenient air routes, so it's no surprise you can pop into Friedman Memorial Airport from all major western hubs, as well as Chicago. Located in Hailey just 13-miles away, taking off in the morning from SFO, SLC or Seattle and skiing away the afternoon is common for wishing to get some turns in. Naturally, there are a few to-do items to check off prior to packing such as lodging and dinner reservations at favorite culinary haunts. And don’t forget to secure a group or private lessons with the SnowSports School. Fortunately, establishing plans couldn’t be easier via the Sun Valley website, a one-stop logistics center that often features great specials and packages. (And remember, EPIC Pass holders receive additional discounts on lodging!) From flying private into the Sun Valley Airport to arranging private heli-ski days, spa treatments and even on-peak dining, Sun Valley is also famous for its exclusive offerings. You can book your sleigh ride or backcountry sluicing at SunValley.com as well. Most of us look at a Sun Valley visit as an opportunity to revel in all things winter, from cozy fireside fondue to shared snow sports excursions of every stripe. There are plenty of surprises if you know where to look. From snowshoeing deep through the lodgepole pine forests to winter fly fishing in several of the west’s most coveted rivers, exceptional guiding services guarantee ultimate enjoyment and maximum safety. Nordic skiers will find 120+ miles of groomed track as well as premium rental equipment and, if ready to transition from traditional to skate skiing, several outstanding coaches to lead the way. And don’t forget to check the events calendar for everything from film showings and live music to daily happenings during December’s Winter Wonderland Festival.
One could argue that Sun Valley’s reputation was made off the slopes, as this was the first destination ski area in America that gathered considerable renown for its celebrity cachet. Sun Valley shines every bit as bright on-piste, however, where Mt. Baldy’s reliably dry snow covers 2,054 acres of varied terrain down more than 100 named runs. Sun Valley boasts perfect trails for all skiers and snowboarders, in addition to one of North America’s premier ski schools. For some reason, these friendly confines have engendered a reputation as a hill ideal for novice and intermediate skiers. However, whether you take the Roundhouse Express Gondola to the Christmas chair or combine River Run and Lookout Express chairs, a neckline of black diamonds off the 9,150-foot peak await, as do several other expert tracks, from International on skier’s left to the double-black Fire Trail on the opposite side of the face. Of course, dozens of intermediate trails greet skiers and riders from every offload. Unlike many resorts that bury the beginning runs near the bottom, novice skiers will find delightful thrills off the peak as well.
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Sun Valley is beautiful on any day in any season, a yawning valley necklaced by sublime ridgelines in every direction. Snowshoeing is as accessible as the surrounding landscape, an ideal outdoor recreational activity for almost anyone. Not surprisingly, this inexpensive pastime and Sun Valley fit together like a winter boot in the snowshoe straps. There are several shops in Ketchum to rent equipment, including Elephants Perch and Backwoods Mountain Sports. Sun Valley Resort also provides rental equipment. Whether you’re up for a full day excursion or an hourlong survey, there’s a trail waiting for you. You can rent equipment from Galena Lodge, then step right out onto a packed trail or do the same from the Sun Valley Nordic Center. The Lake Creek Road and Adams Gulch are also prepared for easier trekking. Several trailheads off Route 75 invite a wander among the lodgepole pines. You can even skip the trails altogether and head into the public woods of your choice. (Remember, traveling with a companion is always recommended for any outdoor activity.)
You see them soaring above Baldy, colorful sails set against the jagged Boulder Mountain peaks and bluebird sky. They seem to fly forever, the Rocky Mountain uplift ideal for gliding high above the world―one reason the Paragliding National Championships have been held here. Thousands have run off their first mountain here, accompanied by a seasoned pilot from Fly Sun Valley. It may require an initial leap of faith, but most folks who try paragliding can’t wait to take off again. It couldn’t be easier to launch your paragliding adventure. Ride the lifts to the top of Bald Mountain, walk to the top of the Limelight run, strap in, then wait for the right wind to whisk you away. Unlike the “jump off a mountain” myth, the wind actually carries you away after only a few steps, as up you glide into a quiet, peaceful world discovered by few. Then you’re off to ride the thermals like a golden eagle above the Pioneers, until you eventually ease down into the valley to land.
CHRISTMAS RIDGE
UPPER & LOWER COLLEGE
THE SEATTLE RIDGE AREA
Sun Valley’s reputation as one of the best ski resorts on the planet for the holidays is well deserved. Fortunately, every day is a holiday here; just ask anyone who’s dipped into the Christmas Bowl off Christmas Ridge. Skier’s right takes you into more sun-filled celebrations when you dip into the Little Easter Bowl or the robust Easter Bowl, just a ridgeline away. As for the Christmas Bowl, it keeps spilling midmountain and starts gushing over the final black diamond on Lower Christmas Bowl. After this descent, your skis will be jingling with joy.
The Upper College novice run is a favorite for far more than beginning skiers. The length, width and line of the trail provide a perfect pitch for finally nailing that inner edge carving turn. Lower College continues the fun, from a few turns with exits to all sorts of blue detours. Upper and Lower College also promise snowmaking, though that’s hardly rare on this mountain that continues to expand its natural snowmaking abilities. If 2019-20 brings more of the same dumps we saw in 2018-19, which saw record snowfall in February, those hidden snowmaking guns will be lonely as a cowboy this season.
The funky and bumpy double-black Fire Trail descends to skier’s right off the 8,800-foot Seattle Ridge, but that’s not what distinguishes this area. Seattle Ridge is home to the premier upper mountain novice terrain in North America. There’s no telling how many skiers and snowboarders caught their very first bug for the sport in this area. From Gretchen’s Gold to Leigh Lane and Broadway, the set of green runs provides plenty of length as well. Another key feature of this beginner’s paradise is the Seattle Ridge Day Lodge, a gorgeous post and beam space for wood-fired specialties as well as steaks, fish and BBQ. And Seattle Ridge is about to grow like its namesake municipality, as 380 brand new acres will open for the 2020-21 season. No novice terrain here, however. Baldy’s newest addition will feature broad bowls, serious chutes and glades, glades and more glades. Next year will also see the Lower Broadway Extension expand, with an incredible 3,400 feet to a new high-speed lift that will connect directly to the Roundhouse Lodge.
No Vogueing Area Yes, you may see some familiar faces around Sun Valley, like Forrest Gump and The Boss, but probably the reason A-listers keep coming here is that nobody makes a fuss. The same goes for the rest of us. The Valley takes more pride in a well-made flannel shirt than haute couture from Prada, so pack your favorite hoodie, a down jacket, and some comfy layers and you’ll “be seen” as just fine.
Yes, the Name Doesn’t Lie Adding an appealing word to a place name has always been part of marketing 101—just ask Leif Erikson about “Green”land. In this case, however, Sun Valley is more truth than advertising. The Valley receives 24 fewer inches of rain (and 74 more inches of snow!) than the national average each year. As for solar presence, Sun Valley shines 205 days a year. So pack that sunscreen!
About that Dress Code Levi Strauss introduced denim to gold and silver prospectors who would have shredded their woolen and cotton trousers working the mines. The fabric quickly became popular for all manner of physical labor in the West, whether it was in mining, ranching, or logging. Of course, denim carries a different cache today, but a plain pair of Wranglers still anchors the Ketchum Casual code, as does a well-worn flannel shirt from Filson or elsewhere. No need to hit the feed store in advance: you’ll find plenty of clothing store options should you choose cowboy “dress” once you get to town.
Soak You Must After sunny days come star-filled nights, with a sparkling set of diamonds against an ebony background you simply won’t want to miss. Sun Valley’s dry air also makes for a crazy comfortable hot tub experience, a wonderful way to drink in the stars and bask in the good life. Make sure you pack your swimsuit for these nighttime dips beneath the Big and Little Dippers.
Ski Wear on the Sunny Side of the Bowl Ever notice how you never see the same two ski jackets in a lift line? Kind of weird, no? Anyway, whether you’re walking down Warm Springs Road or cruising down Upper Limelight, Sun Valley has a “come as you are” attitude about ski apparel as well. That isn’t to say you won’t spy the occasional gold-lamé jumpsuit sluicing down Sunset Strip, but whether you don the latest earth-toned duds from Outdoor Research or rip it up in Dolce Gabbana, folks here will appreciate your turns first and your threads a very distant second, if at all. It’s just cool like that here.
THE GRILL AT KNOB HILL INN
It’s no secret we judge our mountain towns by their breweries and distilleries. Well, the Warfield Brewery & Distillery nails the prerequisite just fine. Located in the heart of Ketchum on the corner of Main Street and Sun Valley Road, the three-year-old locale is already expanding to meet demand, growing to a three-story brick building with floor-to-ceiling windows facing―what else?―the brewing kettles. There’s a new terrace also, an ideal accent to the popular rooftop restaurant. However you shake down the street, you’ll feel very grateful when, during the dead of winter, you step into the warm Warfield.
THE WARFIELD
THE TOWN SQUARE TAVERN
THE COVEY
Few towns combine cowboy and cosmopolitan quite like Ketchum, Idaho. Town Square Tavern offers a perfect example, with its Mediterranean flavors and an always casual, open atmosphere. The menu highlights the same juxtapositions―see the duck confit tacos and Jerusalem sabich, pita, boiled egg, eggplant, potatoes and hummus. Dinner brings Greek braised chicken legs and fresh bucatini, among other delicious plates. 10+ taps and plenty of wine accentuate the ambiance.
The Covey provides yet another option for sampling locally sourced, exceptionally prepared provender. The broad, open kitchen offers insights into the game-focused cuisine, including pheasant and elk loin. The whole trout is a must for anglers who know they’re within miles of some of the best fly fishing rivers in the West. You can also carb up with beautiful pasta, including rigatoni in beef ragu. The pheasant & rice soup will also warm you from the inside.
10 Ski Experiences You Can Only Have in Sun Valley
15 Things You Must Do in Sun Valley This Winter
Local Beta for Planning Your Ski Trip to Sun Valley
Sun Valley: A Year-Round Destination
Everybody Comes To Rick's
A One-Day Winter Itinerary for Sun Valley, Idaho
Winter Wonderland Festival launches the season in December, the Sun Valley Music Festival Winter Series comes to the Argyros Performing Arts Center in late February and the Sun Valley Film Festival arrives in March. The area’s biggest draw is the same whether your name is Hemingway or Springsteen, there’s more flannel than glamor on these streets. Sun Valley can stake claim to plenty of firsts, in 1936 the world’s first chairlift conveyed skiers between Dollar and Proctor Mountain. The lift’s structure can still be seen from hiking trails today. Railroad magnate William Averell installed the single-chair lift to generate more interest from Union Pacific Railroad passenger in his fledgling resort. Today, Dollar Mountain offers a premier opportunity unseen at most resorts, a separate hill providing acres of novice and intermediate terrain ideal for first-time skiers and snowboarders as well as those who want to hone their turns on more forgiving terrain. From working into New Bowl to catching an early lunch at Carol’s Dollar Mountain Lodge before heading to Baldy for the afternoon, Dollar pays big dividends for families and mixed-ability groups, especially for those who take Dollar group or private lessons. Back on Baldy things get really interesting with diverse lines all over the hill. Drop down I-80 and pop onto Picabo’s Street or continue along the intermediate Flying Squirrel or Graduate, a mosaic that tests skills and, like taking the Upper Greyhawk, Hemingway or Cozy, all blacks that mellow a little on the lower level, just add tons of fun to the day. Skier’s right off the peak finds a cupboard full of bowls, one half dozen delights to be exact.
Dining on Rocky Mountain fare is one of the culinary virtues when visiting Sun Valley. Owners Bob and Jolie Dunn join Chef Sarah Janego to create a locally-sourced menu framed in a comfortable space that is quintessentially Sun Valley. The private Fireplace Room offers still more intimacy, the dining room glows behind floor-to-ceiling windows, and menu items like the Chairman’s Reserve Prime Rib or Filet Mignon, both aged 45 days, speak volumes about what it means to inhabit the Valley for a weekend or a lifetime.
un Valley has long held the reputation as a ski resort where blissful time on the slopes is only half the fun. Packing for a destination with exceptional, cosmopolitan dining, authentic western saloons, and multiple venues where you can get your culture on can be challenging, especially since visitors no longer arrive in Ketchum toting trunks like 30s movie stars. Here’s a peek into packing the perfect saddle bag for your Sun Valley escapade.
About that Dress Code Levi Strauss introduced denim to gold prospectors who would have shredded their woolen and cotton trousers working the mines. The fabric became popular for all manner of physical labor in the West. Of course, denim carries a different cache today, but a plain pair of Wranglers still anchors the Ketchum Casual code, as does a well-worn flannel shirt from Filson or elsewhere. No need to hit the feed store in advance: you’ll find plenty of clothing store options should you choose cowboy “dress” once you get to town.
Ski Wear on the Sunny Side of the Bowl Ever notice how you never see the same two ski jackets in a lift line? Kind of weird, no? Whether you’re walking down Warm Springs Road or cruising down Upper Limelight, Sun Valley has a “come as you are” attitude about ski apparel. That isn’t to say you won’t spy the occasional gold-lamé jumpsuit sluicing down Sunset Strip, but whether you don the latest earth-toned duds from Outdoor Research or rip it up in Dolce Gabbana, folks here will appreciate your turns first and your threads second, if at all. It’s just cool like that here.
To Stay: Sun Valley Inn Sun Valley Lodge To Eat: The Ram Village Station To Do: Skate at the ice rink Nordic Skiing Visit the spa at Sun Valley Resort
To stay: Limelight Hotel Ketchum Hotel Ketchum The Knob Hill Inn To dine: Warfield Distillery and Brewery Town Square Tavern The Grill at Knob Hill Inn To do: Shopping Museums Performing Arts
Dollar Mountain’s gentle treeless terrain and first class daylodge is ideal for kids and parents to develop their skills and taste for skiing and riding. Summit: 6,638 feet Base: 6,010 feet Vertical drop: 628 feet Lifts: 4 Terrain Parks: 1
With the highest per hour lift capacity per skier anywhere on earth, you’ll get more quality skiing \and boarding before lunch here than you will over an entire vacation at most other resorts. Summit: 9,150 feet Base: 5,650 feet Vertical drop: 3,400 feet Lifts: 18 Skiable Acres: 2,054 Beginner terrain: 36% Intermediate terrain: 42% Advanced terrain: 20% Expert terrain: 2%
SNOWSHOEING
PARAGLIDING
SEATTLE RIDGE
UPPER AND LOWER COLLEGE
THE GRILL AT KNOB HILL
TOWN SQUARE TAVERN
BALD MOUNTAIN
Dollar MOUNTAIN
KETCHUM
SUN VALLEY
M
ost ski resorts work hard to look like a western town with a ski hill attached, in short, to imitate the first destination ski resort in America: Sun Valley. There is so much going on here, from an exquisite and ever-evolving culinary scene to all manner of culture, we sometimes forget that 2,000-acres of dry snow hovers just above town. The Who’s Who crowd learned this early, making Sun Valley a popular festival destination for artists and other creative types.
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There is so much going on here, from an exquisite and ever-evolving culinary scene to all manner of culture, we sometimes forget that 2,000-acres of dry snow hovers just above town. The Who’s Who crowd learned this early, making Sun Valley a popular festival destination for artists and other creative types.
If powdery slopes and mountain living is just what the doctor ordered, look no further than a trip to Sun Valley. With luxurious accommodations, perfect grooming, plentiful après activities, and unique off-mountain experiences, Sun Valley has everything you need to make it a weekend to remember.
Getting to Sun Valley is a breeze, with nonstop flights from Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, Denver, and Chicago. The Friedman Memorial Airport (SUN) is located 12 miles south of Ketchum and Sun Valley. Ask your hotel about their shuttle services to and from the airport, or hop in an Uber for the quick ride to Ketchum and Sun Valley. Friedman Memorial Airport has a private terminal if you are arriving in your own aircraft, and charter services are available through the Sun Valley Air Club and Jackson Jet Center Charter. For those driving, the routes in to Sun Valley are rather benign. Google Maps offers great real-time routing suggestions. For Idaho road conditions, check out the Idaho Transportation Department’s site.
Getting Here
Day 1: Arrive and Get Settled
After arriving in Ketchum, get settled into your hotel room. The Limelight Hotel Ketchum, located on Main Street, is a great choice if you’re looking for a luxurious and centrally located place to spend the weekend. The Limelight is pet-friendly and offers knowledgeable concierge service in addition to their continental breakfast, inviting lobby bar and restaurant, and year round heated outdoor pool. If you’re in need of ski or snowboard rental equipment there are plenty of options to fit your needs. Here are a few quick recommendations: Sturtevant’s The Board Bin Door2Door Rentals & Ski Butlers – Delivery Services Four Mountain Sports – located in the Limelight Hotel Sure Foot & Ski Tek – awesome boot work After getting situated, take a stroll around town. If it’s snowing, look for a flashing blue light on the top of the Warfield Distillery & Brewery. When the light is on it means there will be a powder day in the morning, and also that all of Warfield’s tasty brews are just $3 a glass in celebration. Grab a bite to eat before walking back to your hotel under the stars: Ketchum and Sun Valley are part of the Central Idaho Dark Sky Reserve — the first International Dark-Sky Reserve in the United States.
Day 2: Hit the Slopes
Get your fill of a hearty breakfast then head to the ski slopes before the lifts start turning at 9:00am. To save a few bucks on lift tickets, look in to pre-buying your day passes online from Sun Valley Resort. They offer up to 20% off for pre-purchased tickets. For those folks with Mountain Collective passes, Sun Valley has you covered. Enjoy two days of skiing for free on this pass with subsequent days offered at 50% off the regular priced ticket. It’s also worth keeping an eye on the Deals & Specials page for regularly updated offerings. Hop on the Roundhouse Express gondola and then the Christmas lift to reach the summit of Bald Mountain. Admire the view—there are mountains as far as the eye can see in every direction—before taking your first turns down Upper and Lower College to get your bearings. From there the mountain is your oyster. Are you in the mood for lift-serviced bowls, powdery glades, or ultra-smooth groomers? Choose your own adventure and then ski until your stomach grumbles with hunger. Make your way to the Seattle Ridge Day Lodge, located on a mountain ridge at 8,800 feet elevation, for one of the most luxurious on-mountain dining experiences you can find anywhere. Sink into a leather chair by the fire and enjoy a plate of grilled fish or a cup of soup while warming your toes. Insider tip:If you’re looking for a couple of down-to-earth local favorites, check out Apple’s Bar & Grill for an order of tachos and a tall Tecate or warm up with a savory bowl of homemade ramen at the Hot Water Inn on the Warm Springs side of the ski hill. In the afternoon take a few runs at the Seattle Ridge area before checking out the bowls, which soften in the afternoon sun. Stop by the River Run Lodge for an après ski cocktail before making your way back to the Limelight. Exchange your ski clothes for a bathing suit, and slip into the heated waters of the hotel’s outdoor pool. Watch the sun go down over the mountains before getting ready for a night on the town. For an upscale meal make reservations at The Grill at Knob Hill, Trail Creek Cabin at Sun Valley Resort, or Vintage Restaurant. If reservations aren’t your style, there are dozens of more casual restaurants throughout Ketchum and Sun Valley serving up everything from sushi to tapas, and steak to bar food. Check out our dining guide for some more foodie insight. If you have energy to spare, dance the night away at Whiskey Jacques’ (Ketchum’s live music venue) or check out the shot-ski at the Sawtooth Club, one of Ernest Hemingway’s favorite haunts. For more details, check out: Late Night in Sun Valley on Searching for Sun Valley.
Day 3: EXPLORE OFF MOUNTAIN
Before heading back to the airport, explore some of the unique off-mountain experiences at Sun Valley. If pampering is calling your name, book a treatment at Sun Valley’s newly renovated spa. Whether you enjoy a massage, a body ritual, or a wellness treatment, The Spa at Sun Valley offers an oasis of tranquility and decadent relaxation. If you haven’t gotten your mountain fix, head to Galena Lodge. Located 22 miles north of Ketchum in the Boulder Mountains, Galena Lodge is a community-owned day lodge that serves as a launching-point for Nordic ski and snowshoe adventures. Hire a private instructor from the Lodge for a one-hour lesson in technique before gliding over some of the 50km of perfectly groomed Nordic trails. As the weekend comes to an end, you may not be ready to leave. With sleigh ride dinners, the largest heli-ski serviced backcountry terrain in the lower 48 states, fat tire snow biking, backcountry snowmobile tours, and cultural offerings that exceed expectations, you might be tempted to stay another week (or two!).
1. Skiing on Bald Mountain “Baldy”
Sun Valley, ID is America’s original winter playground for good reason. A foundation built around the classic ski vibe was just the beginning of things. Now in its 81st winter, Sun Valley has come leaps and bounds in diversifying itself beyond the traditional lift-accessed roots. An intense struggle can overwhelm those with extreme F.O.M.O. or indecisive tendencies when choosing between the plethora of activities. To help you along, we’ve narrowed down the list down to highlight our top 15 things you must do in Sun Valley this winter. Whether you are up for a grand adventure outdoors, or prefer a mellower pace around town, there’s bound to be something to match your cadence. Here are a few of our favorites–feel free to mix and match to create your ideal Sun Valley getaway.
PUSH YOUR LIMITS
It’s no secret that the behemoth of a mountain towering above the town of Ketchum is the main draw to this area. With more than 3,000 feet of consistent fall line skiing, the best groomers in the world, a nice mix of luxurious and quaint lodges serving everything from tacos to fondue, and minimal to non-existent lift lines, Baldy offers a world class ski experience. Whether you are the hardest ski bum or the softest ski bunny, experiencing this historic ski hill is a must for any visit to this area. Plan at least a full day (or better yet a full week) to explore all Baldy has to offer. Duration: Full or Half Day
2. Heli Skiing with Sun Valley Heli Ski
For 50 years, Sun Valley Heli Ski (SVHS) has set the standard for American helicopter skiing. America’s first heli-ski operation, SVHS has access to 750,000 acres of powder skiing. With pick-ups available from the top of Baldy, you can get a few warm up runs on familiar terrain before flying directly to the untouched slopes of the Idaho backcountry. Duration: Full Day
3. Backcountry Ski Touring off Galena Pass
If accessing remote peaks via helicopter is not quite in your budget, take advantage of the easy roadside access from Galena Pass to hike your way to the top of an untracked fields of powder. Options range from half day tours on mellow and generally safe terrain, to full day epics on the highest peaks where avalanche knowledge, risk management, and exercising sound decision making, gives you a sense of accomplishment to match the glorious views you enjoy from the summit. Be sure to read the avalanche report before going! Duration: Full or Half Day
4. Nordic Skiing from Galena Lodge
For those with strong lungs and legs who prefer the act of user generated momentum over the thrill of downhill skiing, the area’s Nordic trails are hard to beat. With 200+ kms of groomed trails rolling out of our backdoor, Nordic skiers can get in a quick ski in just a couple of hours. Our favorite trails are located 25 minutes north of Ketchum near Galena Lodge where exceptional views are the norm. The Boulder Mountains tower to the East of the Harriman Trail—a perfectly groomed, winding track that takes you alongside the Big Wood River. Make your way back to the Galena Lodge to replenish depleted calories by enjoying a Ginger Sesame Bowl, Elk Burger, or one of their mouth-watering gourmet sandwiches. Duration: Full or Half Day
5. Fat Biking
Looking for a good workout but not a fan of the two-planks? Hop on a Fat Bike! With oversized tires and minimal tire pressure, fat biking brings a new perspective the two-wheeled experience. You might find that riding will become a year-round part of your Sun Valley experience. Rent one from The Elephant’s Perch or Sturtevant’s and hit either the BCRD’s Wood River Trail that runs up and down the Valley or hit the Boundary Loop out Trail Creek. Duration: Half Day
6. Snowmobiling in Smiley Creek
Do you prefer the roar of an engine to the sound of your own huffing and puffing around a fat bike or Nordic track? If so then snowmobiling in Smiley Creek is for you. Located on the other side of Galena Pass, roughly 45 minutes north of Ketchum, Smiley Creek is a small outpost at the foot of the Sawtooth Mountains that offers cabin rentals, hot meals, groceries, and snowmobile rentals. Cruise the hundreds of miles of groomed snowmobile tracks with a guide, or rent one on your own to explore the logging roads and deep powder fields strewn around area. Duration: Full Day
7. Paragliding with Fly Sun Valley
Perhaps one the best perspectives of the Sun Valley area comes with the sensation of soaring. Enjoy a bird’s eye view while flying off Baldy with a certified paragliding pilot from Fly Sun Valley. Experience a feeling only the birds may know better, surrounded by breathtaking views, while safely harnessed to your expert instructor. Bundle up and allow two hours for this unforgettable experience. Duration: Less than a Half Day
8. Spa Day at Zenergy or Sun Valley Lodge
Treating yourself is good for the soul. Massages, facials, and other spa treatments can all be found at either Zenergy or the Spa at the Sun Valley Lodge. Both boast outdoor hot pools, full service spa amenities including fitness center and yoga studios, and professional and friendly staff members. This rejuvenating experience will prep you for a fun-filled night out on the town. Duration: Half Day
TONE IT DOWN
9. A Night Out on the Town (disclaimer: could also fall under ‘Push Your Limits’)
The best nights out involve mixing it up and hopping from hot spot to hot spot. Start your evening with cocktails at the newly opened Limelight Hotel lounge. Before the drinks go to your head, hit the Pioneer Saloon for dinner, where the prime rib comes in thick slabs and is perfectly cooked. With dinner taken care of, it’s time to explore the nightlife of Ketchum. Start out at the Cellar Pub to carry on your dinner conversation or test your skills on the shuffleboard table in the backroom. When it’s time to kick it up a notch, check Whiskey Jacques’ for live music and dancing. Be sure to save some energy for a night cap at the Casino. Here the only thing you gamble is how well you will feel the next morning but don’t worry about that now, you are having one. With taxi cabs parked right outside, you can make a clean getaway to enjoy a well-deserved night of sleep. Duration: Full Night
10. Thrift Store Shopping
Ketchum’s premier thrift store is called the Gold Mine and for good reason. With Sun Valley’s affluent second homeowner population, you never know when you might find something valuable such as a Chanel purse or a vintage fur coat amongst the silly one piece ski suits of yesteryear. One person’s junk is another’s treasure, so lose (or find) yourself in the discarded items of the Gold Mine. Duration: Less than a Half Day
11. Christina Potters Ice Rink and Sun Valley Suns Hockey
Skate outside at one of the Northwest’s largest un-refrigerated outdoor ice rinks at the Christina Potters Ice Rink. Built and maintained by the Ketchum Parks Department, this spot offers up free admission, free skates, pucks, helmets, and hockey sticks to borrow. This is your opportunity to channel your inner Wayne Gretzky in the shadow of Bald Mountain. Yearning for more hockey? Check out the Sun Valley Suns, the local men’s team that has been punishing opponents for more than 40 years. Duration: Less than a Half Day
12. Day Trip to Stanley
If you feel like you’re in in need of a change of scenery then it’s time to hop in the car and head north to the quaint mountain town of Stanley. Enjoy stunning views of the Boulder and Sawtooth Mountains as you make the hour and fifteen-minute drive. Once in Stanley, gawk at the jagged spires of the Sawtooth’s while snowshoeing, visit one of the area’s many hot springs, or learn the sport of curling at the public outdoor ice rink. Duration: Full Day
13. Winter Fly Fishing
Yes, fishing season still happens even when there is snow on the ground. In fact, it is one of the best times to fish as you are likely to have the river all to yourself. Ideal for days when the temperature is above freezing, see a whole new side of Sun Valley while enjoying a professionally guided trip from one of Sun Valley’s local outfitters. Silver Creek Outfitters and Lost River Outfitters both have a great line-up of guides and top of the line equipment. Duration: Half Day
14. Horse-Drawn Sleigh Rides
Create a winter memory that will last a lifetime with either a romantic or family sleigh ride. Let the horses do the work as you cuddle under blankets while dashing through the snow in a classic horse-drawn sleigh. A one-hour tour takes you past the snowy hills of Sun Valley and Ernest Hemingway’s Memorial or you can make an evening out of it by including a fantastic dinner at Trail Creek Cabin. Duration: Less than a Half Day
5. Bowling at the Sun Valley Lodge
Bowling is one of the few activities that everyone can enjoy. Whether you are with family or on a bachelor party with the guys, the newly renovated bowling alley at the Sun Valley Lodge is a good fit for all types. Complete with game room, new bar and food service, this updated party spot still retains its original 1950’s charm. | Duration: Less than a Half Day Now you’ve got the goods to get out and make the best winter itinerary possible here in Sun Valley. We hope to see you out there!
Ten years after the installation of the first ski lift, a young buck by the name of Warren Miller parted ways with the US Navy, packed his 8mm film camera, and hauled a teardrop trailer to the mountains of Idaho in pursuit of the ski-bum dream. Today that same essence lives on, and while you may find fewer diehards living out of their cars these days, the ski stoke vibe that Miller was so captivated by can still be found at Sun Valley’s River Run Lodge, and stories of “how deep it really was” are still told on the tailgate over a cold Coors Banquet beer. Bring a six-pack to share and feel it for yourself.
1. Tailgate in the same parking lot as ski-film icon Warren Miller.
2. Cross-country ski the US Olympic training grounds.
Sun Valley is home to a Nordic Olympic Training Site for its ideal trails, training facilities and perfect conditions. Photo: Ray Gadd There are over 125 miles of endorphin-inducing, visually stimulating cross-country terrain in the Wood River Valley. A US Olympic training site since 2012, the Sun Valley XC trail system may be home to the elite, but its groomed landscape provides sweet tracks for any skill level. Take time out for a drink and a bite to eat at Galena Lodge, no matter how good your crossover turns look.
3. Eat fondue at 8,000 feet.
Jump in Sun Valley’s new gondola for the ride up to Roundhouse Lodge, the country’s oldest ski lodge. Order a caquelon of white wine, shallots, and melted Gruyère, dip in a warm baguette, and you’ve got yourself the perfect gourmet mid-ski snack. Located within the lodge, Averell’s Bar has 8,000ft panoramic views of the Pioneer Mountains, making it the ideal spot to kick off the ski boots and recharge for the remainder of the day.
4. Check outfive mountain ranges from the top of Baldy.
The Pioneer Range with its toothy signature grin is one of the most photographed and visually stunning views from the mountain. Here Cobb Peak, Old Hyndman and Hyndman Peak (L to R) cut the skyline.
5. Rub elbows with celebrities and skiing legends.
Do you feel lucky? Well, you should — the odds of sharing a lift with a legend around these parts is on par with winning ladies’ night bingo at the local 4-H club. Sun Valley has been a favorite destination for famous faces and skiing legends since Hemingway holed up here in the 1930s. Today Clint Eastwood, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Tom Hanks, and Bruce Springsteen are just a few stars that make Sun Valley their ski town of choice. Why? We reckon they’re into the small-town vibe that lets them fly under the radar and enjoy the mountains like everybody else.
9. Skin to the top of one of the world’s first ski lifts.
The ski lift at Ruud Mountain is one of the first ski lifts in the world which replaced the original which stood near to this location. Photo: Ray Gadd Back in 1936, a gentleman by the name of James Curran adapted a banana conveyer belt into the world’s first ski lift. Sun Valley set the stage for this revolutionary piece of machinery that would forever change the face of skiing. Today, one of the three original lifts still stands atop Ruud Mountain, and a quick snowshoe or skin will place you on the sunny slopes that host this historic structure.
8. Soak in a bit of ski racing culture at Apple’s.
Sun Valley’s ski culture runs deep, and one of the longest standing and most celebrated factions is the downhill ski racing community. The steeps of Bald Mountain have shaped a copious number of ripping skiers, with several going as far as the Olympic arena. At the bottom of the Warm Springs side of the mountain, Apple’s Bar & Grill is an après-ski hotspot. Order a beer, check out the iconic memorabilia, and keep your eyes peeled for local racing legends like the Crist brothers.
10. Take flight over the mountains.
Three, two, one, liftoff… Feet dangling, wind rushing across your face, and a bird’s-eye view encompass the experience of paragliding off the top of Bald Mountain. Fly Sun Valley takes flight four times a day (conditions permitting), delivering a near-weightlessness ride accompanied by aerial views of the Wood River Valley below. It’s the closest thing to being reincarnated as a raven dancing across the mountain thermals you’ll find in this lifetime. Take a flight from the top of Baldy with Fly Sun Valley Paragliders and see the world disappear beneath your feet. Photo: Mark Oliver Take a flight from the top of Baldy with Fly Sun Valley Paragliders and see the world disappear beneath your feet. Photo: Mark Olive
6. Fish trophy trout waters.
Fly fishing on the Big Wood River which runs just past the doorstep of the River Run Lodge produces big rainbows and browns in the winter when conditions can be ideal. Photo: Ray Gadd Between the comforts of your rig and the swanky accommodations of the Sun Valley lodges lies a freestone river holding some of the valley’s most prized possessions. Considered by many to be one of the most productive fisheries in the West, the Big Wood River harbors a slew of healthy rainbow and brown trout. Leave the ski boots on and swing a few drifts on your lunch break for a chance to feel the tug from one of these high-mountain beauties.
7. Grab an afternoon heli lap from the top of Baldy.
Sun Valley Heli runs its operation right from the summit of the mountain offering a dream like ski experience where skiers can slide off the lift and right into the jump seat. Photo: Ray Gadd It’s nearing midday and you realize you’ve thoroughly exhausted the two-day-old powder stashes. Time to call up Sun Valley Heli Ski to track down some pristine, untouched fields of glory. Founded back in 1966, these guys offer pickup from the tiptop of Baldy out to one of three nearby mountain ranges, and they’ll happily share their extensive knowledge of aerial-assisted skiing for an unforgettable afternoon on the slopes.
Discover the best things to do in winter in Sun Valley, Idaho.
Visit Sun Valley today and it’s easy to see why this part of south-central Idaho became the home of the country’s first destination ski resort. Dominated by 9,150-foot Bald Mountain, the landscape is covered in dense groves of evergreens, columns of bone-white aspens, rolling hills, and the gentle saddle of the Big Wood River, just outside the town of Ketchum and a world away from anywhere else in the country. And when winter dumps as much as 220 inches of snow each year, the entire region transforms into snow-globe perfection, with world-class skiing and snowboarding, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, and family-friendly pursuits like ice-skating and tubing, all complemented by a dizzying number of dining options. The resort’s decades-long popularity with the well-heeled set—from its inception in 1936, celebrities like Gene Kelly and Marilyn Monroe flocked to Sun Valley—has attached a haute rep to the resort. But Sun Valley also wears its simple love of winter proudly on its sleeve, imbuing the high-class, classic European vibe with a hearty dose of the Wild West. This is why so many down-to-earth winter Olympians call it home and why ski bums are still a staple; Warren Miller himself lived out of a car in Sun Valley’s parking lot until he broke out as the pioneering ski filmmaker. The profusion of snow makes this one of the best playgrounds on the continent, but it also adds one unexpected element: Sometimes it’s hard to get to Sun Valley. Storm systems routinely close the airport in the nearby town of Hailey, which adds a touch of island-like isolation to the region. Think Nantucket nestled in a snow-choked alpine setting. But once you’re there, you’re there.
WHAT TO DO
The moment the first chairlift of the season starts to run, typically in late November, the prime winter draw of Sun Valley is the skiing and snowboarding—and with good reason, as the resort boasts more than 2,000 skiable acres with 121 runs, at least one stretching up to three miles. The resort itself is divided into the two mountains that first caught Austrian Count Felix Schaffgotsch’s eye in 1936, when he discovered Sun Valley and turned it into a snow-lover’s paradise. Bald Mountain (known by locals simply as “Baldy”) caters to most ski levels, but it’s a veritable playground for intermediates, advanced, and experts, with deep bowls, dense glades, and long runs that carry a sustained pitch from top to bottom. Access is from two base areas, River Run and Warm Springs, both easily accessible from town. Dollar Mountain rises up on the other side of the river, about a mile from Baldy, the original proposed location for the resort and now a godsend for beginners. In addition to a novice-friendly magic carpet, the mountain has two high-speed quad lifts; gentle, perfectly groomed runs; a tube park; and a terrain-based learning area. Master the slopes at Dollar, and you can graduate to Baldy’s intermediate runs. Sun Valley’s wide saddle also affords a host of other winter activities that don’t necessarily involve throwing yourself down a snow-covered hill. Starting from the resort’s Nordic and Snowshoe Center near Dollar, you can access almost 25 miles of trails professionally groomed for Nordic skiing, skating, and snowshoeing. The Sun Valley Lodge—original to the resort and recently renovated—also offers year-round ice-skating, a yoga studio, a glass-enclosed pool, and a 20,000-square-foot spa. And if spas are really your thing, visit Zenergy, a 48,000-square-foot facility with indoor and outdoor saline pools, a full fitness center, and more treatment options than anyone should enjoy in a single lifetime.
WHERE TO DRINK
To partake in Sun Valley’s rough-and-tumble spirit, Apple’s Bar and Grill is a must-visit après-ski spot. Located at Baldy’s Warm Springs base area, Apple’s bears witness to the region’s storied history—the place has been here for decades, and it shows. The walls are replete with photos, posters, and racy Lange ski boot adverts signed by Olympic athletes, and once the lifts close a rowdy crew typically spills out into the road, dining on house burgers and swilling from a curated list of regional craft beers. Or head into town and elbow up to the bar at Pioneer Saloon on Main Street. The décor reinforces Idaho’s Wild West identity, while stiff drinks and massive plates of aged steak provide the creature comforts you want after a long day on the mountain.
WHERE TO EAT
On Baldy you’ll find plenty of on-mountain dining, but target the Lookout Day Lodge for a midday visit. Sitting at the summit of Bald Mountain, it offers good food with nominal frills, loads of retro Sun Valley ski decorations, and a massive sundeck with panoramic views of the entire valley. In Ketchum, Cristina’s restaurant feels like walking into a wormhole attached to Tuscany. This charming restaurant is a short walk from Baldy, with a menu fit for a feast: antipasti, charcuterie and cheese boards, boiled shrimp, picante-stuffed banana peppers, seared-ahi slaw, grilled rosemary chicken breast … Just save room for the house-made pastries. And ski apparel is the common attire at lunchtime. For dinner, hit Rickshaw, a small joint that makes traditional street-food dishes from China, Southeast Asia, and Indonesia that are far better than you’d ever expect for a mountain town. Best to order a lot and share with friends, eating as the food leaves the micro-size kitchen.
WHERE TO STAY
The legendary Sun Valley Lodge has been there as long as the resort, but it’s recently undergone a total renovation, with 94 fully reimagined guest rooms. It also has an on-site 20,000-square-foot spa, a glass-encased pool, restaurants, and lounges. It sits near the base of Dollar Mountain, within walking distance of Sun Valley’s Tyrolean-style pedestrian village, which offers a variety of dining, drinking, and shopping options. Free shuttles to Baldy are easy to arrange. Within the heart of town, Knob Hill Inn offers staggering views of Bald Mountain and the Smokey and Boulder mountain ranges, with 29 boutique guest rooms as well as a cozy lobby with a wood-burning fireplace, an on-site restaurant, indoor heated pool, hot tub, and sauna. It’s within walking distance of downtown Ketchum and offers shuttles throughout the region.
LOGISTICS
Alaska, Delta, and United offer direct flights to Sun Valley from various cities: Los Angeles, Seattle, Salt Lake City, Denver, and San Francisco. All flights land in nearby Hailey, located 14 miles from the resort, but in inclement weather, a common characteristic of winter in Idaho, it’s not uncommon for planes to take off—and then be forced to land in Twin Falls, from which you’ll have to take a two-hour-long shuttle ride to Sun Valley.
Ketchum’s Casino bar is more than just an old-time dive amid the fine-dining spots and boutiques of Sun Valley. It’s a haven and a second home for locals, old-timers and the people who make the surrounding luxury ski resort hum.
It’s Tuesday evening at the Casino, a log cabin dive bar on the blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Main Street of Ketchum, Idaho (population 2,763). Retired ski instructor John Ikaunieks (light beer) and Paul Webster (vodka tonic), who’s been cutting hair in a room at the front of the bar for a half-century, sip their drinks next to pictures of Doc, a legendary Casino bartender, and the Casino’s most illustrious patron, Ernest Hemingway. The sun’s gone down on Bald Mountain, and the slopes that draw skiers to Ketchum and the neighboring Sun Valley Resort are empty. Long-time locals and a few skiers are filing into the 96-year-old bar to greet the bartenders who have been there nearly as long. "the heart of the action is the bar with its two dozen leather-topped stools and a pair of bartenders tending to the customers, oblivious to the changes outside." The Casino is just about all that’s left along Main Street of old-time Ketchum, which began life as a dirt-street mining town. Most of the old-time bars and eateries like the Tram Club and the Western Cafe, once filled with miners and loggers and shepherds working the surrounding Sawtooth mountains, have been replaced by sleek glass, wood condos and commercial buildings filled with Italian restaurants and real estate offices. Inside the log-and-frame Casino, a few dim neon strips give the place the comfortable atmosphere of a living room, with a dozen or so tables in the front half and three pool tables at the back. The jukebox occasionally sputters to life, but the heart of the action is the bar with its two dozen leather-topped stools and a pair of bartenders tending to the customers, oblivious to the changes outside.
John McDonald — Ketchum’s postmaster, an enthusiastic hunter and taxidermist and a Casino regular since he came to town in 1969 — stops by most evenings with his wife, Lois, for a vodka and soda. “We come here to get our hair cut, have a cocktail, wander around the bar and maybe go have another cocktail,” said McDonald. Webster, who said he’s 77, said he’s been looking out the same window onto Main Street for 55 years. Actor Bruce Willis, who once owned a home here, would fly Webster to film sets around the country as his personal barber. At least until Webster convinced Willis to shave his head. “I worked myself out of a job,” he said ruefully. The Casino was a wilder place when Webster first arrived. The second floor had small rooms for rent to local workers, and the attic was a flophouse for loggers and miners. The cooks and dishwashers would hold marathon poker games, sometimes gambling through the night, and send out for sandwiches and coffee to keep going. “They played for higher stakes than I could afford,” laughed Webster. The upstairs rooms are gone, and gone too are some of the regulars Webster remembers, including Hemingway, who retired to Ketchum, where he died in 1961. Webster never cut Hemingway’s hair, but he still has the writer’s 1937 Neptune outboard engine in his garage. Bartender Matt Gorby hasn’t been here that long, but he’s typical of the staff and customers who stop into the Casino and never leave. Gorby boarded a train at New York’s Penn Station in 1994, with a theater degree in his pocket and dreams of Hollywood in his head. He never made it to California. He stopped in Ketchum to visit a sister who was working at the ski resort and spend a few months on the slopes. “By June, I decided to stay,” he recalled. Gorby started off at the door, carding drinkers and keeping troublemakers out. He learned what he knew from Doc, who’d been tending bar at the Casino for longer than anyone knew and had his own methods for keeping the peace. “I knew there’d be some tension when I saw he had the Galliano bottle on ice,” said Gorby. The 18-inch Italian liqueur bottle makes a fine club. But in 24 years at the Casino, Gorby said he’s called the cops just twice.
“Yeah, it’s a dive bar, but it’s a good dive bar. You walk in here, and you know the bartender will take care of you,” he said. Run into fishing guide Brian Richter at La Cabanita Mex, a bare-walled taco joint in a suburban ranch house three blocks off Main Street, and he’ll tell you the backstory of those fights — and several others. “The Casino’s where everything happens.” said Richter, finishing off a large stein of dark beer. “It’s the town hall.” The mountain is what drew Spinner, 34, who has been tending bar at the Casino for 10 years and spent a dozen years as a snowboard instructor. He mentions the names of bartenders past in tones reserved for naming the saints. “Doc, Woody, Neil, Rusty, they had it — a certain level of competence. They ran 20 miles an hour, and if you ordered a Hamm’s and came back a year later, they’d know what you wanted,” said Spinner. He’s been trying to leave town for years, but the pull of Ketchum is too strong. It’s “that thing” — Bald Mountain — and the slopes that are just 10 minutes from Main Street, plus the friends he’s made in the bar. “Yeah, it’s a dive bar, but it’s a good dive bar. You walk in here, and you know the bartender will take care of you,” he said. Joe Goitiandia came to Ketchum from Spain’s Basque Country as a teenager in 1961 to help his father herd sheep. His family now has the municipal waste-hauling concession up and down the Wood River Valley. He said there no other bar he’d go to in Ketchum. “The people are friendly and the owners are friendly — it’s just a normal kind of local bar.” “This is my living room. Everyone here is my family.” By 8 p.m., the 5 o’clock crowd has gone home for dinner, and a younger crew begins to roll in: workers from the hotels, restaurants, ski slopes and construction sites. A large sample of foreigners are here on temporary work visas, and a nearby restaurant is having its own Christmas party at the Casino. The crowd is no surprise: For 14 of the past 20 years, Matt Gorby’s been voted the best bartender in the Wood River Valley, and everyone in town knows him. “There’s something to be said about the fact that every year we win best bartender, but never best bar in the Valley,” said Brent Voyles, a 40-year-old bartender who’s one of the new guys at the Casino — he’s been there only 14 years. “Yet the place all the bartenders from those places come is here.” Rachel, a bartender from another joint in town, is here for her restaurant’s staff Christmas party. Why not have it where she works? She responded with a withering you-gotta-be-kidding-me look: “This is my living room. Everyone here is my family.” At the back of the bar, an eight-ball tournament is playing out across three coin-operated pool tables, mostly an under-30 crowd and out-of-towners, including a fair number of foreigners working at the ski resort. “This place is a little more real, and the people are friendlier than the other places nearby,” said Chad Willett, who’s in Ketchum installing a sound and video system in the town’s new performing arts center. “Even if you’re from out of town, you meet a lot of local people and they’re just nice to you.”
The Casino stays open until 2 a.m. every night and has for as long as anyone here can recall. That makes it a magnet for the cooks and waiters in the dozens of restaurants here. And that’s an opportunity for two more recent regulars, Joshua Jones and Sean Connolly. Jones learned to make barbecue growing up in North Carolina, and Connolly studied at the Cordon Bleu cooking school. Together they’ve opened a food truck selling pork and beef barbecue called Smoke Over Baldy that opens late and serves the crowd getting out of the Casino and a dollar-shot joint across the street. When it’s cold, they alternate shifts in the unheated truck and come sit in the Casino.
And that’s just fine for the eclectic mix of locals, oddballs, out-of-towners and ski bums who’ve washed up in Ketchum and call the Casino their second home. Earlier this year, the Werry family, which had owned the Casino since shortly after it was hammered together in 1922 from logs taken off Bald Mountain, decided it was time to sell. When one potential buyer said he planned to tear down the bar, the family found the safe hands of Rick Rooney, a contractor and one-time local bar owner. “I just think some things ought to be preserved and this is one of them,” said Rooney, who runs the bar with his wife Patti and help from his son Q and daughter Dani, a student at nearby Boise State University. Rooney, a Pittsburgh native, landed in Ketchum almost by accident, when he ran out of gas one night in 1988. Inside the Casino, he plans to fix up the bathrooms and open a burger joint in an office in front of the bar, but apart from a few TVs showing football games, he has no plans to change things. “I’m gonna make it nice, keep the old feel, and it’s gonna stay here as long as I’m around.” And that’s just fine for the eclectic mix of locals, oddballs, out-of-towners and ski bums who’ve washed up in Ketchum and call the Casino their second home. Because it’s open every day until 2 a.m., even on Christmas, and everybody comes to the Casino.
A resort for all seasons
Sun Valley in Idaho offers just about everything an outdoor enthusiast might dream of doing in one location. Skiers and snowboarders relish its more than 2,000 skiable acres and 40 kilometers of cross-country tracks. But don’t discount its warm-weather outdoor activities, as droves of people come here for hiking, mountain biking, golf, fishing, shooting and horseback riding, as the summer season has surpassed the winter season as the busiest time of year at the resort. And that’s just the beginning.
Indeed, Sun Valley is a year-round destination that benefits from a high mountain desert climate, low humidity and sunny skies for 80 percent of the year. The average daily high temperature during its coldest season, between mid-November and late February, is a comfortable 32°F, while the average temperature during the summer months is an enviable 81°F. “The old saying here,” explains Steve Haims, who has lived in the area since 1978 and is employed by Sun Valley as its Director of Nordic Sports, “is that people come for the winter and stay for the summer.” It is easy to understand why.
The resort’s state-of-the-art snowmaking operation is the largest in the world and involves an arsenal of 578 snowmaking guns that run along 38 miles of underground steel pipe. Weather stations located on every fifth gun relay information to a sophisticated computer system that monitors and adjusts the entire operation. As a result, during the ski season, skiers are virtually guaranteed they will be able to ski. The last day of the ski season in 2018 will be Sunday, April 15th.
Sun Valley is a veritable paradise for alpine skiers, snowboarders and nordic track enthusiasts. The Sun Valley Nordic & Snowshoe Center offers some of the best terrain in the country with over 40 km of trails groomed daily for skate and classic cross-country skiing. Snowshoeing and snow biking are also available here. Skiers and snowboarders rave about the resort's two mountains at Sun Valley: Bald and Dollar. The larger of the two, referred to as “Baldy” by locals, has perfect-pitch vertical from peak to base, with no flats or plateaus and nothing but downhill. There are themed “Adventure Trails” for kids and 55 acres of glade ski and boarding terrain. The mountain also offers runs ranging from expert to beginner and groomers to slalom challenges. Its consistent pitch, lack of lift lines and variety of terrain have earned it a reputation as being one of the world’s finest ski mountains.
There are 12 chairlifts, including high-speed quads and 100 varied runs on both sides of the mountain. The uphill lift capacity on Bald Mountain is staggering 23,680 skiers per hour, but as it averages only 3,500 skiers per day, the result is non-existent lift lines with the highest per person uphill lift capacity of any resort in the country. It is no wonder the U.S. Alpine Championships, which features many of the country’s best ski racers including members of the U.S. Ski Team, takes place in Sun Valley every March.
Sun Valley’s other mountain, Dollar, is a paradise for first-timers to experienced skiers and riders. The ideal place to become introduced to downhill sports, Dollar offers two high-speed quads, seven terrain parks with various features and a Wundercarpet---an effortless uphill transporter. Home of the world’s very first chairlift, Dollar offers beginner-friendly slopes, six lifts and 628 feet of vertical on a treeless, face. Its newly-designed flow-style terrain parks offers a family-friendly cross course and innovative "Terrain that Teaches" program, as well as larger skate-style transition parks.
Warm weather activities
During the rest of the year, the range of activities---thanks to warm dry days and cool nights---make it possible to enjoy an abundance of fly fishing, tennis, and, believe it or not, ice skating on one of the only outdoor, year-round ice skating rinks in the world. The resort has an 18-hole championship golf course, too, called Trail Creek, which was designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., which spans a sweeping 6,968 yards. There’s an alpine links-style nine-hole course called White Clouds that offers 3,600 yards of play and 360-degree views of the Wood River Valley. Golfers can also play at a second Sun Valley-owned 18-hole course nearby called Elkhorn, which was the last collaboration between the famous design team of Robert Trent Jones, Sr. and Robert Trent Jones, Jr. (Robert Trent Jones, Sr. designed the front nine while his son designed the back nine). The Sun Valley golf program is further supported by a 25-acre practice facility, an 18-hole putting course and a virtual golf simulator inside the Sun Valley Club House where up to four golfers at a time can choose from a number of world class courses to sharpen their short game, long game or putting.
A REAL COMMUNITY
But what sets Sun Valley apart from many other ski destinations is that it offers a real community. “We have a lot of heritage which makes us unique in the fact that we are not a cookie cutter resort,” says Kelli Lusk, Public Relations and Communications Manager at Sun Valley Resort. “We are still independently owned and have not been purchased by a big conglomerate. We have really maintained our character both as a community and also as a resort.” Considering Sun Valley has a year-round population of only 1,000 (there are 2,500 in Ketchum and a total population of 25,000 in the county), there’s an abundance of culture here, too, such as a summer symphony concert series that’s free of charge and summer ballet performances. The resort’s Opera House, which seats over 300 people, features state-of-the-art projection technology and frequently has first-run movies playing when live performances aren’t being offered.
America's First Destination Ski Resort
Sun Valley is “America’s First Destination Ski Resort.” Its history dates back to 1935 when W. Averell Harriman, president of Union Pacific Railroad, hired Austrian Count Felix Schaffgotsch to scour the United States in search of the ideal location where a ski resort along the likes of those located in Austria and the French and Swiss Alps could be developed. Harriman was keenly aware of an increasing interest in skiing among Americans and a need for a world-class ski destination on U.S. soil and if he developed a ski destination accessible by railroad, it would drive passenger traffic and, in turn, increase revenues, for Union Pacific. After a lengthy search, Schaffgotsch suggested Harriman consider an old mining town named Ketchum. Harriman purchased a nearby 4,300-acre spread known as Brass Ranch and in 1936, he broke ground to build the Sun Valley Lodge. Sun Valley was the first ski resort to build a chairlift, which was adapted from a system used to haul bananas onto ships in Panama.
Sun Valley's glamorous history
Since its beginning, Sun Valley’s history has been intertwined with old Hollywood glamour. Harriman’s original intention was to attract Hollywood players to the resort in an effort to raise its visibility. The plan worked. Such Hollywood legends as Gregory Peck, Esther Williams, Judy Garland, Marilyn Monroe, Gary Cooper, Louis Armstrong, Bing Crosby and Clark Gable spent time at Sun Valley. Ernest Hemmingway stayed in the lodge when he visited the area during the 1930’s as a guest of Harriman. Hemmingway liked the area so much that he returned to the Ketchum/Sun Valley area during the late 1950s, bought a home and spent his final years living there. Since 1977, the resort has been owned by the R. Earl Holding family of Salt Lake City, Utah, who made their fortune from Sinclair Oil. Sun Valley is the crown jewel in the Holding family-owned Grand America Hotels & Resorts portfolio of properties, which includes Snowbasin Ski Resort, a ski destination in Huntsville, Utah, Grand America and Little America hotel in Salt Lake City and hotels in San Diego, Ca. and Flagstaff, Arizona and two hotels in Wyoming.
SUN VALLEY's RENOVATION
In June 2015, the Sun Valley Lodge reopened after a complete renovation. The renovation included a new 20,000 square foot spa, refurbished guest rooms, an updated lobby area, renovated restaurants, a new golf clubhouse, and other guest amenities. The resort even took the unusual step of reducing the number of its guest rooms in order to offer a more luxurious guest experience, as some of the smallest rooms were combined to create suites with fireplaces while bathrooms were expanded to include larger showers, soaking tubs and marbled vanity areas. Many of the suites feature terraces with views of the mountains. The resort offers other accommodations, including the more moderately priced Sun Valley Inn, which is also in the process of being renovated (many of its guest rooms have already been remodeled).
Ketchum, which is only a couple of miles down the road, offers plenty of entertainment options, as well, including the Sun Valley Film Festival, which is a well-regarded annual destination film festival that brings together filmmakers, industry insiders, actors and special guests from around the world. A brand new $14 million 25,000 square foot performing arts center featuring two theaters is scheduled to open in Ketchum in October 2018 and will feature a wide variety of programs from theater, comedy and dance to speakers, films and educational workshops.
Guests at both properties, which are in close proximity to each other, share facilities, such as two outdoor year-round swimming pools, two fitness centers, and a six-lane bowling alley. In addition to its guest rooms and suites at the Lodge and the Inn, the resort rents stand-alone guest cottages. Today, the Sun Valley offers just about everything a visitor would want without having to leave the property, from its array of outdoor and indoor activities to spa treatments, dining and shopping. Conveniently, nearly every purchase can be charged back to your room, so it is not even necessary to carry a wallet. A small village located between the Inn and the Lodge offers a bank and post office, in addition to a number of boutiques that offer clothing, gifts, and jewelry, as well as ski, golf and bicycle equipment. There’s even a coffeehouse called Konditorei that features Austrian-style pastries, breakfast, lunch, and Sunday brunch.
And nearby Ketchum, is not to be missed, as the cute town (which only has three traffic lights) offers an impressive array of locally-owned boutiques, pubs, restaurants and a lively nightlife. A favorite is the locally-owned Warfield Distillery & Brewery which makes its own beer, has a distillery (producing gin, vodka, apple brandy and whiskey) and features a bar/restaurant that is one of the top destinations in town. Perhaps the coolest Starbucks in the country---and the only chain operation in town--is also located in Ketchum in a building (with an interior that resembles a treehouse) that is shared with the Visitor's Center for Visit Sun Valley.
SUN VALLEY's DINING OPTIONS
The dining options at Sun Valley Resort are numerous and impressive, as well, both on and off the mountain. On Bald mountain, the historic Roundhouse at the top of the near the Roundhouse Express gondola, is not to be missed. The mid-mountain restaurant greets guests with a blazing stone fireplace and offers such dishes as cheese fondue, salads, hearty soups, and sandwiches. The resort’s original restaurant, The Ram, which dates back to 1937, is the oldest, continuously operated restaurant in the area. It was recently renovated and features live music on many evenings as well as historic dishes including pork tenderloin schnitzel and Hungarian goulash.
One of the most exceptional Sun Valley dining experiences is at Trail Creek Cabin, which is located in a rustic, early-Western cabin built by Harriman to serve as his private hunting lodge. Originally built in 1937, this mountain-style log cabin-turned-restaurant is located next to the rushing waters of Trail Creek, with a jaw-dropping view of Bald Mountain in the distance. Accessible by sleigh or car, Trail Creek Cabin offers a seasonal menu which includes Hagerman Valley Idaho Ruby Trout, sea scallops, Buffalo Tenderloin and Trail Creek New York Strip. Trail Creek Cabin was a favorite haunting ground of regular Ernest Hemingway. The Sun Valley Club is open daily and offers soups, sandwiches, salads, pot pies and paninis in a large dining room with a wraparound terrace that offers stunning views of Bald Mountain, Dollar Mountain and the 18-hole Sawtooth Putting Course. Open year-round, the club serves as a luxurious Nordic and snowshoe center in the winter as well as the golf clubhouse.
Sun Valley continues to attracts Hollywood stars, titans of industry, skiers and outdoor enthusiasts for the same reasons now as it has since its earliest days. Besides the breathtaking scenery and the plethora of outdoor pursuits, however, perhaps what they are most attracted to is the warm, welcoming community of the Sun Valley area at large, not to mention the friendly employees who work at the resort, many of whom have worked there for 40 or more years. Indeed, the resort feels like a small family-owned operation and not at all like it is part of a larger conglomerate. “What you get here is really a one-of-a-kind experience,” says Sun Valley’s Lusk. “Once people get here, they see everything that it has to offer and they understand that it is a special community.” Of course, Sun Valley’s beautiful landscape is also remarkable. “I look around and think to myself ‘wow---another Instagram moment’,” marvels Lusk. “But it is just our backyard.” Sun Valley is served by Hailey's Friedman Memorial Airport (SUN), which is located 14 miles from the resort and is easily accessed from such airports as San Francisco, Seattle, Portland, Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, Chicago, and Denver. Sun Valley Resort guests receive complimentary roundtrip airport transportation.
