2001 - 2010
To celebrate the new year and its 20th anniversary, mastermind JAPAN announced the launch of a global label titled “mastermind WORLD.” Marking a resurgence of the label, mastermind JAPAN and mastermind WORLD will function side by side, releasing collections tailored for separate markets.
2017
2016
Launched mastermind A-GIRLS, mastermind HOMME and mastermind FEMME.
2015
2014
2013
2012
In 2011, following much speculation regarding the brand’s future, Masaaki Homma announced plans to retire the label's main collection line. The change would take place alongside mastermind JAPAN’s 15th anniversary, aiming to avoid the brand's devaluation. During an interview at Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo interview, Homma stated that he had made the decision during mastermind’s 10th anniversary and that he decided to focus on spending the last five years of his collection line repaying the fans that supported the label. Additionally, with “mastermind JAPAN” containing 15 letters, Homma felt the 15th anniversary was the perfect time to end his label’s collection line. From this point on, new mastermind JAPAN would only take the form of collaborations.
2011
Between 2002 and 2010, mastermind JAPAN would release celebrated collections and standout collaborations that would go on to become grailed items, resulting in the proliferation of the label's cult following. The label was met with success, but during its 10-year anniversary signs began to show that the momentum was slowing down.
2001
In 2001, mastermind JAPAN began to move into foreign markets, with its first move being in Paris where the foreign trade shows were held at that time. Though the label was adored and Homma felt satisfaction in his home market, the international success he strived for was still missing.
The designer decided to take a risk and created a collection that approached streetwear with silk and cashmere textiles. During Homma’s interview with FASHION HEADLINE, the designer conveyed he saw this moment as his absolute last chance. The quality of his work was undeniable, drawing buyers to check off mastermind JAPAN's linesheet. Homma caught his break when a buyer for Maxfied LA placed Homma's first several million yen order. The collection quickly sold out at the LA-based store, and additional orders began pouring in, igniting the momentum necessary for Homma to succeed in the international market.
"DUE TO A LOT OF REQUESTS FOR COLLABORATIONS, WE FELT THEY WERE UNAVOIDABLE."
"THE 20TH ANNIVERSARY FOR MASTERMIND JAPAN MEANS TURNING OVER A NEW LEAF, SO I DECIDED TO CREATE 'MASTERMIND WORLD.' THE FIRST COLLECTION WILL BE LAUNCHED AT THE END OF AUGUST ALL OVER THE WORLD, AND OF COURSE AT HBX."
"AT THAT TIME, MANY NEW BUYERS TOLD US THAT THEY WANTED TO CONTACT US AFTER SEEING OUR COLLECTION AT MAXFIELD."
"WE AIM TO MAKE CLOTHES THAT ARE SUPERIOR IN QUALITY, USING TOP GRADE FABRICS AND TECHNIQUES – ALL MADE IN JAPAN.
IN ORDER FOR BUYERS TO FULLY UNDERSTAND, THEY NEED TO TOUCH AND FEEL OUR GARMENTS TO EXPERIENCE THE QUALITY. THEREFORE, IT WAS NECESSARY TO SHOW COLLECTIONS DURING THE EUROPEAN SEASON SCHEDULE.”
After multiple seasonal shows in Paris, Masaaki Homma began experimenting with skull motifs as he had an extreme desire to incorporate them into his designs. In Homma’s 2011 interview with Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo, the designer stated that from the beginning he knew he needed to create a skull design that would instantly be different from those that came before his. Homma notes that he drew about 1,000 skull motifs by hand as he did not own a computer at the time. By the fourth season, Homma established the skull and crossbones design that to this day defines mastermind JAPAN, serving as the brand's logo. During this time the casual designs of mastermind JAPAN had been gaining interest, only to be amplified with the addition of the skull and crossbones.
2000
Looking to participate in the 1997 Tokyo Collection show, Homma hastily opened his first store and officially launched mastermind JAPAN, but was not met with success. Homma shifted his strategy to adopt the “open price” system, where wholesale prices were fixed, but retail prices were open. The aim of this system was to lower the risk for retailers such as Isetan, BEAMS, Hankyu and ZOZOTOWN that gave his label a chance early on.
The success of the “open price” system led Homma to second think the importance of a physical outlet, eventually leading him to close the shop altogether. Though at this point Homma's initial recklessness left the future of mastermind JAPAN in disarray.
1997
Pre-1997
By Nicolaus Li
A timeline of the brand with help from founder, Masaaki Homma.
Uncovering the Mystery of mastermind JAPAN
