HBX
Yohji Yamamoto
Masaaki Homma’s
mastermind JAPAN
2013
Launched mastermind A-GIRLS, mastermind HOMME and mastermind FEMME.
2016
2015
2014
2012
2011
2001 - 2010
"DUE TO A LOT OF REQUESTS FOR COLLABORATIONS, WE FELT THEY WERE UNAVOIDABLE."
"THE 20TH ANNIVERSARY FOR MASTERMIND JAPAN MEANS TURNING OVER A NEW LEAF, SO I DECIDED TO CREATE 'MASTERMIND WORLD.' THE FIRST COLLECTION WILL BE LAUNCHED AT THE END OF AUGUST ALL OVER THE WORLD, AND OF COURSE AT HBX."
"AT THAT TIME, MANY NEW BUYERS TOLD US THAT THEY WANTED TO CONTACT US AFTER SEEING OUR COLLECTION AT MAXFIELD."
"WE AIM TO MAKE CLOTHES THAT ARE SUPERIOR IN QUALITY, USING TOP GRADE FABRICS AND TECHNIQUES – ALL MADE IN JAPAN.
IN ORDER FOR BUYERS TO FULLY UNDERSTAND, THEY NEED TO TOUCH AND FEEL OUR GARMENTS TO EXPERIENCE THE QUALITY. THEREFORE, IT WAS NECESSARY TO SHOW COLLECTIONS DURING THE EUROPEAN SEASON SCHEDULE.”
2001
2000
1997
Pre 1997
Between 2002 and 2010, mastermind JAPAN would release celebrated collections and standout collaborations that would go on to become grailed items, resulting in the proliferation of the label's cult following. The label was met with success, but during its 10-year anniversary signs began to show that the momentum was slowing down.
In 2011, following much speculation regarding the brand’s future, Masaaki Homma announced plans to retire the label's main collection line. The change would take place alongside mastermind JAPAN’s 15th anniversary, aiming to avoid the brand's devaluation. During an interview at Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo interview, Homma stated that he had made the decision during mastermind’s 10th anniversary and that he decided to focus on spending the last five years of his collection line repaying the fans that supported the label. Additionally, with “mastermind JAPAN” containing 15 letters, Homma felt the 15th anniversary was the perfect time to end his label’s collection line. From this point on, new mastermind JAPAN would only take the form of collaborations.
In 2001, mastermind JAPAN began to move into foreign markets, with its first move being in Paris where the foreign trade shows were held at that time. Though the label was adored and Homma felt satisfaction in his home market, the international success he strived for was still missing.
The designer decided to take a risk and created a collection that approached streetwear with silk and cashmere textiles. During Homma’s interview with FASHION HEADLINE, the designer conveyed he saw this moment as his absolute last chance. The quality of his work was undeniable, drawing buyers to check off mastermind JAPAN's linesheet. Homma caught his break when a buyer for Maxfied LA placed Homma's first several million yen order. The collection quickly sold out at the LA-based store, and additional orders began pouring in, igniting the momentum necessary for Homma to succeed in the international market.
After multiple seasonal shows in Paris, Masaaki Homma began experimenting with skull motifs as he had an extreme desire to incorporate them into his designs. In Homma’s 2011 interview with Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo, the designer stated that from the beginning he knew he needed to create a skull design that would instantly be different from those that came before his. Homma notes that he drew about 1,000 skull motifs by hand as he did not own a computer at the time. By the fourth season, Homma established the skull and crossbones design that to this day defines mastermind JAPAN, serving as the brand's logo. During this time the casual designs of mastermind JAPAN had been gaining interest, only to be amplified with the addition of the skull and crossbones.
Looking to participate in the 1997 Tokyo Collection show, Homma hastily opened his first store and officially launched mastermind JAPAN, but was not met with success. Homma shifted his strategy to adopt the “open price” system, where wholesale prices were fixed, but retail prices were open. The aim of this system was to lower the risk for retailers such as Isetan, BEAMS, Hankyu and ZOZOTOWN that gave his label a chance early on.
The success of the “open price” system led Homma to second think the importance of a physical outlet, eventually leading him to close the shop altogether. Though at this point Homma's initial recklessness left the future of mastermind JAPAN in disarray.
Masaaki Homma’s history in the fashion industry began with six plus years working in retail for iconic avant-garde Japanese label Yohji Yamamoto. This early influence of Yamamoto’s iconic minimalist dark tones would later manifest in Homma’s own aesthetic. Following his time at Yohji Yamamoto, Homma then moved on to become the manager of a select shop, positioning him to understand the methodology behind the stocking of new designers and their labels. After becoming disappointed with the state of Japanese fashion, Homma decided to put his efforts into his own brand, pulling from the knowledge he gained from over nearly a decade in the industry.
In a 2013 interview with FASHION HEADLINE, Homma stated that he had always wanted his label to begin with the letter "m" like his name — choosing the word "mastermind." Additionally, Homma liked the word "mastermind" as it holds two meanings that have an inherent tension with one another. As "mastermind" could mean to plan or direct with intent or a person with an outstanding intellect. This duality sat well with Homma as he believed the concept was one that was prevalent in his life.
Since its inception, mastermind JAPAN has encapsulated an enigmatic air — sharing little about itself to the world. In keeping a tight wrap on the meaning and inspiration behind collections, founder Masaaki Homma, allows the design of garments to speak for themselves. This degree of mystery has been one of the key elements in building the cult following that elevates mastermind JAPAN.
Over the years, Homma's skull and crossbones motif has served as the signifier of mastermind JAPAN's alternative status, rejecting established norms to create its own unique design sensibility. The iconic motif plays into the brand’s minimal bold dark tones that characterize the signature aesthetic found in its garments.
While mastermind JAPAN once focused on seasonal ranges, today, the label is undeniably rooted in seasonless streetwear with high-profile collaborations. Meanwhile, a bevy of diffusion lines aim to spread the aesthetic to a wider audience. With 2017 marking the label's official 20th anniversary, we decided to take a closer look at the brand from conception to its present state as the height of streetwear.
A timeline of the brand with help from founder, Masaaki Homma.
By Nicolaus Li
Uncovering the Mystery of mastermind JAPAN
