Jeramiah Irwin, @jerairwin
The Jersey City–based designer attended Afropunk for the first time last year, and the festival’s accepting ethos made him come back again this year. “I love festivals in general, but this one to me is so different. Everyone is so friendly. There’s no judgment,” he says. “It’s really true what they say—the no sexism, no homophobia here.” And given the opportunity to fully express himself, Jeremiah chose a denim corset and ripped jeans that were inspired by the pop-country music he’s been listening to. Says Irwin, “I was going to wear a cowboy hat, but I’m saving that for later.”
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JOHN-RUBEN HOLTBACK
Founder & Creative Director
Having previously founded menswear brand L’HOMME ROUGE, John is a Woolmark Prize winner, and was named the future face of global menswear by Interview Magazine. After a health scare 10 years ago, he took up running to relieve anxiety and cope with stress. He has since founded the holistic running brand UNNA, which means "treat yourself" in Swedish. He now serves as the creative director.
Contributor: Adam Katz Sinding
Published October 2024
What sparked your initial interest in fashion?
I've always been very curious and observant. From a young age, I loved going into stores and admiring international designers' clothing. The world felt a bit more within reach, especially since I didn't come from a huge metropolitan city. I would dream about having my own store or label.
With a family background where education was highly valued (my relatives were doctors, engineers, and lawyers), I initially followed the expected path, despite being a bit of a slacker without much direction. However, in my first year at university, while studying economics, I started taking croquis classes on the side and launched my own brand, L’HOMME ROUGE, designing and selling knitted hats and other accessories to students and local stores. This ignited a spark, and three years later, we were creating fully-fledged fashion collections.
Was there a catalyst for starting your own brand? Was it a creative outlet, or to fill a void you saw in the market?
I was really craving that creative space I was missing in school and in my social circle at the time. Before we started the brand, I invited some people with creative ambitions to my place for a few brainstorming sessions. There wasn’t really an agenda; I just wanted to create things and meet more like-minded people. There were lots of ideas on the table, but in the end, we started working on an actual product to bring to market. Thinking back, perhaps it was a subconscious act inspired by my childhood dream.
What's next for UNNA?
Right now, I’m working on a new collaborative product range with one of the big sports and running brands, with the first drop scheduled for fall 2025. I’m incredibly excited about this project; it's amazing to work with another passionate team. This collaboration will open many new doors, bring global awareness to the brand, and help us on our mission to inspire more people to move and feel better about themselves.
As you develop new collections for your brand, what inspires your creativity?
I try to see things through my own eyes, not judging or thinking of trends but rather focusing on what I like without preconceived ideas. I typically draw inspiration from things I see in the streets, or things I thought I saw in passing. When people say they go to fashion week for inspiration, I don’t really get it. From an inspirational standpoint, I prefer original things, not those already interpreted by other designers. Ideas can come from anywhere at any time, and I write them all down. I’m always on, I guess. Last night, I loved the color and texture of a liquid night mask I tried on and wondered how I could translate this into a technical fabric.
Q&A
What changes have you seen influencing fashion culture?
I used to discover brands and designers by going to stores, feeling the fabrics, and trying on products. Twenty years ago, buying denim meant going downtown and touching it, you know? We had to invest time to really experience it. Now, you can just go on social media, do a quick browse of a brand, and get an idea. However, this doesn't tell you much about the actual product, its quality, or the depth of detail.
We've shifted a lot from focusing on product quality, to product presentation and branding. I see an opportunity in finding new ways to showcase products and be an influential source. Today, brands are more defined by their vibe than by the people wearing them. Customers lean into that vibe, so try to own it.
Do you think brick-and-mortar can have a resurgence in this environment?
Yeah, I miss the personal relationships you could build with the well-respected and passionate sales staff; these people educated me. It's just so hard to get that online. I'm not the type to post questions on Reddit; I prefer face-to-face interactions. Therefore, I believe physical retail has a role to play in the future, focusing more on the local community and bringing like-minded people together.
Staple wardrobe item?
I've been wearing my silver necklace from my friend Jonatan's brand, Kultur 5, a lot. I love it, and soon I think I need to get the bracelet too.
Do you think accessories are important, or is it just that piece that you’re drawn to?
Nowadays, I’m quite inspired by styling in general. Since entering the sports space, I’ve enjoyed merging and contrasting sports and technical clothing with wider tailored silhouettes, wool knits, jewelry, and similar items. Running with a necklace that has zero function and might even slow you down is a playful nod to all the performance-focused people out there—I don’t care.
Q&A
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2024 US FASHION CONSUMER OUTLOOK REPORT
Decoding what, why and how mass-market, mid-market, luxury and secondhand shoppers will buy throughout the year.
SS25 MEN'S TRENDS A 60 minute digital session presenting the key seasonal products, new color directions, patterns, and graphics shifts in apparel, footwear, and accessories across the men's market.
LOGO HERE
What changes have you seen influencing fashion culture?
I used to discover brands and designers by going to stores, feeling the fabrics, and trying on products. Twenty years ago, buying denim meant going downtown and touching it, you know? We had to invest time to really experience it. Now, you can just go on social media, do a quick browse of a brand, and get an idea. However, this doesn't tell you much about the actual product, its quality, or the depth of detail.
We've shifted a lot from focusing on product quality, to product presentation and branding. I see an opportunity in finding new ways to showcase products and be an influential source. Today, brands are more defined by their vibe than by the people wearing them. Customers lean into that vibe, so try to own it.
Do you think brick-and-mortar can have a resurgence in this environment?
Yeah, I miss the personal relationships you could build with the well-respected and passionate sales staff; these people educated me. It's just so hard to get that online. I'm not the type to post questions on Reddit; I prefer face-to-face interactions. Therefore, I believe physical retail has a role to play in the future, focusing more on the local community and bringing like-minded people together.
Staple wardrobe item?
I've been wearing my silver necklace from my friend Jonatan's brand, Kultur 5, a lot. I love it, and soon I think I need to get the bracelet too.
Do you think accessories are important, or is it just that piece that you’re drawn to?
Nowadays, I’m quite inspired by styling in general. Since entering the sports space, I’ve enjoyed merging and contrasting sports and technical clothing with wider tailored silhouettes, wool knits, jewelry, and similar items. Running with a necklace that has zero function and might even slow you down is a playful nod to all the performance-focused people out there—I don’t care.
