Jeramiah Irwin, @jerairwin
The Jersey City–based designer attended Afropunk for the first time last year, and the festival’s accepting ethos made him come back again this year. “I love festivals in general, but this one to me is so different. Everyone is so friendly. There’s no judgment,” he says. “It’s really true what they say—the no sexism, no homophobia here.” And given the opportunity to fully express himself, Jeremiah chose a denim corset and ripped jeans that were inspired by the pop-country music he’s been listening to. Says Irwin, “I was going to wear a cowboy hat, but I’m saving that for later.”
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SS25 COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK STREET STYLE From OpéraSPORT's sun-soaked garden show to Berner Kühl's intimate showcase, Copenhagen remains a rising star in the fashion scene.
CECILIE THORSMARK
CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week
Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week since 2018, has revolutionized the event into an industry leading platform by launching the "Reinventing Copenhagen Fashion Week" action plan in 2020, which requires minimum sustainability parameters for all brands on the official show schedule, making it the first fashion week globally to introduce such standards. Her efforts have garnered her inclusion in The BoF 500, honored by Fast Company, WWD, and Vogue Business. Her efforts have led to Copenhagen Fashion Week now being regarded as the “fifth fashion week” after New York, London, Paris and Milan, Thorsmark also serves as the Deputy Chair of the European Fashion Alliance.
Contributor: Adam Katz Sinding
Published October 2024
What was the catalyst that launched your fashion career?
I grew up in a family immersed in creativity from nearly every corner of the arts—furniture design, costume design, ballet, music, film, architecture, you name it! We were all very drawn to culture and aesthetics, which sparked my fascination with everything from design to beauty and, of course, fashion.
Adding to that, my dad was an environmentalist who dedicated his career to the Ministry of Environment, so I was always encouraged to think about the impact of our choices on the planet. I’m sure this blend of creativity and environmental consciousness has shaped my perspective and passion for fashion. Therefore, when I graduated from Business School in 2009 with a master’s degree in marketing communications management—which included a master's thesis on the topic of, well, actually, Copenhagen Fashion Week—I knew I would seek a career within the fashion industry, and that’s how I landed my first job at the Danish Fashion Institute.
That’s one of those very rare stories where a person is dealt the right cards in life and follows the path provided. I love that. Did you ever think about another trajectory in life?
It was never specifically Copenhagen Fashion Week for me, but I was very determined to work in the fashion industry. So, while there could have been different paths within the industry, fashion was always the direction.
Is there a particular city that you feel invigorates you?
As much as I love traveling and have a special affection for cities like New York, Paris, and Tokyo, I find that Copenhagen actually inspires me the most. The city’s dynamic creative scene and strong community resonate with my interests, my personality and my values. But it’s also the sense of home that really fuels my energy from living here. I think I’m the typical extroverted introvert who thrives on connecting with people and going out and about in the city, but also really values – and needs! - the time at home.
I can second that opinion! Waking up on a Sunday morning to quiet streets is not something most capital cities offer.
It’s funny you mention the quiet streets on a Sunday morning! That’s my favorite part too, and I was seconds from saying that before. Strolling down Værnedamsvej on a Sunday morning is so peaceful - even with three kids and a talkative husband as my entourage.
Q&A
Who or what has been a defining influence in shaping your career path?
Definitely Eva Kruse, the founder of the Danish Fashion Institute, Copenhagen Fashion Week, and Global Fashion Agenda. She was my former boss and mentor for many years, and today she’s a cherished friend. Eva’s visionary approach to the fashion industry, particularly her commitment to sustainability, has had a profound impact on my career, and she was really the one who taught me the importance of aligning passion with purpose. Her support and belief in my potential pushed me to step out of my former role at the Global Fashion Agenda and pursue the role of CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Today she continues to inspire me—and next week we’ll actually be sharing the stage at New York Climate Week in a conversation about sustainability in the fashion industry, moderated by Sophia Li.
What key opportunities or obstacles are presented in your current role?
One of the biggest opportunities I see is undoubtedly the growing emphasis on sustainability and ethical practices in fashion. At Copenhagen Fashion Week, we’ve taken a proactive approach by implementing Sustainability Requirements that all brands must comply with to be accepted on the show schedule. It’s very simple and straightforward to me: We all need to take responsibility and take action in pushing for more sustainability in our industry. We need to make bold decisions; otherwise, we are not getting anywhere. We’ve been talking A LOT about sustainability in our industry for the last couple of decades, but we’ve only seen the environmental impact of our industry rise to alarming levels. So, there’s no excuse.
You told me before about one of the brands that show at CPHFW taking initiative to exceed requirements. Have you ever had any situations where brands pushed back?
We actually haven’t encountered much pushback. Most brands have been receptive and eager to align with our commitment to sustainability, and many see it as an opportunity to get inspired, learn, and find motivation to accelerate their efforts.
If you had to choose a signature piece that defines your style right at the moment, what would it be?
A blazer, for sure. I think it’s the most versatile item in any wardrobe, allowing you to elevate your look while also adapting to different occasions. You can wear the same blazer and dress it down with jeans and flats for a casual everyday look, or you can pair it with a skirt and heels, for example, to create a more elegant or elevated look.
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Connect with CECILIE on Instagram
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SPOLIGHT SERIES: SIMON RASMUSSEN
Denmark born Creative Director, Simon Rasmussen sits down with Adam Katz Sinding.
LOGO HERE
Having previously founded menswear brand L’HOMME ROUGE, John is a Woolmark Prize winner, and was named the future face of global menswear by Interview Magazine. After a health scare 10 years ago, he took up running to relieve anxiety and cope with stress. He has since founded the holistic running brand UNNA, which means "treat yourself" in Swedish. He now serves as the creative director.
Contributor: Adam Katz Sinding
Founder & Creative Director
JOHN-RUBEN HOLTBACK
What changes have you seen influencing fashion culture?
I used to discover brands and designers by going to stores, feeling the fabrics, and trying on products. Twenty years ago, buying denim meant going downtown and touching it, you know? We had to invest time to really experience it. Now, you can just go on social media, do a quick browse of a brand, and get an idea. However, this doesn't tell you much about the actual product, its quality, or the depth of detail.
We've shifted a lot from focusing on product quality, to product presentation and branding. I see an opportunity in finding new ways to showcase products and be an influential source. Today, brands are more defined by their vibe than by the people wearing them. Customers lean into that vibe, so try to own it.
Do you think brick-and-mortar can have a resurgence in this environment?
Yeah, I miss the personal relationships you could build with the well-respected and passionate sales staff; these people educated me. It's just so hard to get that online. I'm not the type to post questions on Reddit; I prefer face-to-face interactions. Therefore, I believe physical retail has a role to play in the future, focusing more on the local community and bringing like-minded people together.
Staple wardrobe item?
I've been wearing my silver necklace from my friend Jonatan's brand, Kultur 5, a lot. I love it, and soon I think I need to get the bracelet too.
Do you think accessories are important, or is it just that piece that you’re drawn to?
Nowadays, I’m quite inspired by styling in general. Since entering the sports space, I’ve enjoyed merging and contrasting sports and technical clothing with wider tailored silhouettes, wool knits, jewelry, and similar items. Running with a necklace that has zero function and might even slow you down is a playful nod to all the performance-focused people out there—I don’t care.
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Connect with JOHN-RUBEN on Instagram
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SPOTLIGHT: NICOLAS BAROSI
Multidisciplinary Creative Nicolas-Barosi explores his desire to grow his brand and the nuanced connection between sociology and fashion as he sits down with Adam Katz Sinding.
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Pursuing an editorial path in fashion must have been quite exciting. What sparked that journey for you?
Essentially, it started because I wanted a cashmere sweater, and my mom said, “I am happy to buy you a sweater, but it’s not going to be cashmere. If that’s what you want, I suggest you get a job and buy it yourself.” So, I went to the nicest clothing store in town, Joseph P. Roth and Sons, and asked them if they needed any help after school or on weekends, and they said, “YES.” I have been working ever since. I was 16 when I started working.
So, the question is…how many cashmere sweaters do you own now?
I recently counted 47…I feel like there could be more…somewhere.
Looking back at your 35 year career can you pinoint any individuals or experinces that you feel helped to shape your journey?
I honestly think that Peter Rizzo, who was my boss at Barneys New York (1987–89), taught me everything I know today. He taught me how to look at brands, the way a collection is designed, how to choose fabric, and how to refine my taste and point of view. He really was a master.
Were you a buyer at this time? How did you take his advice and make it your own?
Yes. I was first an assistant buyer, then got promoted to buyer. In stores, buyers are called merchants. I really believe it was the best training I could ever have. It’s analytical, it’s creative, and it’s how I developed taste and a point of view. I just listened and soaked up everything, or as much as I could. It’s as if I knew this would last only a couple of years, so I truly made the most of it.
SUSTAINABILITY NOW GUIDE
An exploration of the top sustainability priorities to act on today and real world business applications.