Jeramiah Irwin, @jerairwin
The Jersey City–based designer attended Afropunk for the first time last year, and the festival’s accepting ethos made him come back again this year. “I love festivals in general, but this one to me is so different. Everyone is so friendly. There’s no judgment,” he says. “It’s really true what they say—the no sexism, no homophobia here.” And given the opportunity to fully express himself, Jeremiah chose a denim corset and ripped jeans that were inspired by the pop-country music he’s been listening to. Says Irwin, “I was going to wear a cowboy hat, but I’m saving that for later.”
related content
SS25 MEN'S TRENDS A 60 minute digital session presenting the key seasonal products, new color directions, patterns, and graphics shifts in apparel, footwear, and accessories across the men's market.
NICK WOOSTER
Menswear Consultant
Nick Wooster is a design and retail consultant with over 35 years of experience in the menswear industry. He began his career as a buyer, transitioned to design, and then returned to retail as a Men’s Fashion Director, collaborating with companies such as Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, and more. In 2015, he was included in Vanity Fair's International Best Dressed List.
He now serves as Style Editor at At Large Magazine. In addition to his editorial role, Nick continues to consult with brands around the world and is currently designing several capsule collections.
Contributor: Adam Katz Sinding
Published October 2024
What sparked your initial interest in fashion?
Essentially, it started because I wanted a cashmere sweater, and my mom said, “I am happy to buy you a sweater, but it’s not going to be cashmere. If that’s what you want, I suggest you get a job and buy it yourself.” So, I went to the nicest clothing store in town, Joseph P. Roth and Sons, and asked them if they needed any help after school or on weekends, and they said, “YES.” I have been working ever since. I was 16 when I started working.
So, the question is…how many cashmere sweaters do you own now?
I recently counted 47…I feel like there could be more…somewhere.
Looking back at your 35 year career can you pinoint any individuals or experinces that you feel helped to shape your journey?
I honestly think that Peter Rizzo, who was my boss at Barneys New York (1987–89), taught me everything I know today. He taught me how to look at brands, the way a collection is designed, how to choose fabric, and how to refine my taste and point of view. He really was a master.
Were you a buyer at this time? How did you take his advice and make it your own?
Yes. I was first an assistant buyer, then got promoted to buyer. In stores, buyers are called merchants. I really believe it was the best training I could ever have. It’s analytical, it’s creative, and it’s how I developed taste and a point of view. I just listened and soaked up everything, or as much as I could. It’s as if I knew this would last only a couple of years, so I truly made the most of it.
Q&A
What opportunities or challenges do you see in your work today, and how do they differ from when you first began in the industry?
Without sounding like I am complaining or on a soapbox, I would say that for creatives, there is an age limit. This thought never occurred to me until it was too late. I am not saying there are zero opportunities for someone my age, but the path is getting narrower every day.
How do you think global cultural contributions are influencing the wider industry?
There has been a constant and longstanding cultural conversation between the US, Europe, and Asia. For sure, the US has imposed so much on society: iPhones and all tech, financial engineering, and finance. Europe has imported taste and style in a way that we can never seem to get enough of. Asia is interesting because they seem to take both aspects of the US and EU and do it better.
Along that same thought what cultural influences do you think are most impactful in shaping fashion movements across these reigons?
I think the street, music, and sports have been the most important influences in menswear. Film used to be that influence, but that has definitely decreased as sports and music have taken over.
Q&A
Connect with NICK on Instagram
join the social community
What's Next in Streetwear, Sportswear & More Explore key onsite education session takeaways from the SS25 PROJECT Las Vegas show.
SPOLIGHT SERIES: ALEX BADIA Alex Badia sits with us to chat about his evolution in fashion, his current relationship with social media, and more.
LOGO HERE
Having previously founded menswear brand L’HOMME ROUGE, John is a Woolmark Prize winner, and was named the future face of global menswear by Interview Magazine. After a health scare 10 years ago, he took up running to relieve anxiety and cope with stress. He has since founded the holistic running brand UNNA, which means "treat yourself" in Swedish. He now serves as the creative director.
Contributor: Adam Katz Sinding
Founder & Creative Director
JOHN-RUBEN HOLTBACK
What sparked your initial interest in fashion?
I've always been very curious and observant. From a young age, I loved going into stores and admiring international designers' clothing. The world felt a bit more within reach, especially since I didn't come from a huge metropolitan city. I would dream about having my own store or label.
With a family background where education was highly valued (my relatives were doctors, engineers, and lawyers), I initially followed the expected path, despite being a bit of a slacker without much direction. However, in my first year at university, while studying economics, I started taking croquis classes on the side and launched my own brand, L’HOMME ROUGE, designing and selling knitted hats and other accessories to students and local stores. This ignited a spark, and three years later, we were creating fully-fledged fashion collections.
Was there a catalyst for starting your own brand? Was it a creative outlet, or to fill a void you saw in the market?
I was really craving that creative space I was missing in school and in my social circle at the time. Before we started the brand, I invited some people with creative ambitions to my place for a few brainstorming sessions. There wasn’t really an agenda; I just wanted to create things and meet more like-minded people. There were lots of ideas on the table, but in the end, we started working on an actual product to bring to market. Thinking back, perhaps it was a subconscious act inspired by my childhood dream.
What's next for UNNA?
Right now, I’m working on a new collaborative product range with one of the big sports and running brands, with the first drop scheduled for fall 2025. I’m incredibly excited about this project; it's amazing to work with another passionate team. This collaboration will open many new doors, bring global awareness to the brand, and help us on our mission to inspire more people to move and feel better about themselves.
As you develop new collections for your brand, what inspires your creativity?
I try to see things through my own eyes, not judging or thinking of trends but rather focusing on what I like without preconceived ideas. I typically draw inspiration from things I see in the streets, or things I thought I saw in passing. When people say they go to fashion week for inspiration, I don’t really get it. From an inspirational standpoint, I prefer original things, not those already interpreted by other designers. Ideas can come from anywhere at any time, and I write them all down. I’m always on, I guess. Last night, I loved the color and texture of a liquid night mask I tried on and wondered how I could translate this into a technical fabric.
What changes have you seen influencing fashion culture?
I used to discover brands and designers by going to stores, feeling the fabrics, and trying on products. Twenty years ago, buying denim meant going downtown and touching it, you know? We had to invest time to really experience it. Now, you can just go on social media, do a quick browse of a brand, and get an idea. However, this doesn't tell you much about the actual product, its quality, or the depth of detail.
We've shifted a lot from focusing on product quality, to product presentation and branding. I see an opportunity in finding new ways to showcase products and be an influential source. Today, brands are more defined by their vibe than by the people wearing them. Customers lean into that vibe, so try to own it.
Do you think brick-and-mortar can have a resurgence in this environment?
Yeah, I miss the personal relationships you could build with the well-respected and passionate sales staff; these people educated me. It's just so hard to get that online. I'm not the type to post questions on Reddit; I prefer face-to-face interactions. Therefore, I believe physical retail has a role to play in the future, focusing more on the local community and bringing like-minded people together.
Staple wardrobe item?
I've been wearing my silver necklace from my friend Jonatan's brand, Kultur 5, a lot. I love it, and soon I think I need to get the bracelet too.
Do you think accessories are important, or is it just that piece that you’re drawn to?
Nowadays, I’m quite inspired by styling in general. Since entering the sports space, I’ve enjoyed merging and contrasting sports and technical clothing with wider tailored silhouettes, wool knits, jewelry, and similar items. Running with a necklace that has zero function and might even slow you down is a playful nod to all the performance-focused people out there—I don’t care.
join the social community
Connect with JOHN-RUBEN on Instagram
related content
SPOTLIGHT: NICOLAS BAROSI
Multidisciplinary Creative Nicolas-Barosi explores his desire to grow his brand and the nuanced connection between sociology and fashion as he sits down with Adam Katz Sinding.
Read Now
