Jeramiah Irwin, @jerairwin
The Jersey City–based designer attended Afropunk for the first time last year, and the festival’s accepting ethos made him come back again this year. “I love festivals in general, but this one to me is so different. Everyone is so friendly. There’s no judgment,” he says. “It’s really true what they say—the no sexism, no homophobia here.” And given the opportunity to fully express himself, Jeremiah chose a denim corset and ripped jeans that were inspired by the pop-country music he’s been listening to. Says Irwin, “I was going to wear a cowboy hat, but I’m saving that for later.”
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LILIA LITKOVSKA
Fashion Designer
Driven by her passion for creating garments that reflect both her Ukrainian roots and cosmopolitan ideals, Lilia was inspired to found LITKOVSKA. As a participating brand at Paris Fashion Week in 2017, the brand has since gained international recognition. Lilia views fashion as a powerful medium for conveying deeper meanings, and today, LITKOVSKA is celebrated for its commitment to cultural dialogue and its signature collections that tell stories beyond fashion.
Contributor: Adam Katz Sinding
Published December 2024
We see you now as a designer and founder of a fashion brand, but can you take us back to how you got your start in fashion?
My career started in Kyiv, where I established LITKOVSKA – but long before that, I've always been charmed by the world of tailoring and fashion. Four generations of my ancestors were related to this craft in one way or another, and I've always seen it as some form of magic. From the very beginning, I was committed to creating clothing that told a story – pieces that represented more than just trends, but personal and cultural narratives. It’s been a journey of constant learning and evolution.
I love that you mentioned constant learning—it's such an essential part of growth in this industry. I'm curious, what has your journey taught you about yourself?
My career has taught me resilience. Fashion is a demanding industry, but it has also shown me that creativity can thrive in the most difficult of times. I've learned that the power of community and staying true to one’s values are more important than any trend or external validation. It has also deepened my understanding of balance and how to harmonize between keeping up and staying myself.
Can you expand on that balance? How do you meet industry demand while also staying yourself and maintaining your brand authenticity? Do those two things overlap for you?
They do overlap. I believe authenticity is what creates demand. At LITKOVSKA, we’ve never been swayed by fleeting trends. Our designs come from a deeply personal place, and I think they resonate with people. The industry will always push for newness and speed, but we focus on slow fashion, timeless pieces, and meaningful designs. Authenticity is the core of our brand, and it’s what sets us apart. there.
Q&A
It’s clear that authenticity and timeless design are central to your approach. With consumers becoming more thoughtful about their purchases, what shifts do you anticipate in the industry in the next few years?
One major shift I see is the growing demand for sustainability. Consumers are becoming more conscious of what they buy and how it’s made. I’m also seeing a shift toward valuing craftsmanship and pieces with a story, as people move away from fast fashion. What surprised me recently was how quickly technology has integrated into the industry, from virtual showrooms to digital fashion. It’s exciting, but we need to ensure that it doesn’t overshadow the artisanal and human aspects of design.
That's an interesting point about technology and its impact on the human side of design. How do you see the intersection of technology and fashion evolving in a way that enhances rather than overshadows?
Technology has opened up new possibilities, especially in terms of showcasing collections globally and connecting with audiences in ways that were unimaginable before. Moving forward, I see technology enhancing creativity rather than replacing it—whether through innovative materials, sustainable production methods, or new ways of presenting fashion to the world.
If you could get one message out to the industry, what would it be?
Slow down and focus on your core values and identity. Fashion needs to rethink its pace and purpose. We need to shift away from fast cycles and mass production toward more thoughtful, sustainable practices that respect both the craft and the planet.
Q&A
Connect with LILIA on Instagram
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FW25/26 Textures & Colorways Guide
FAligned with the FW25/26 Men’s and Women’s trends sessions and buyer’s guides this guide offers a comprehensive look at the diverse ways this season's trends can be executed.
LOGO HERE
Having previously founded menswear brand L’HOMME ROUGE, John is a Woolmark Prize winner, and was named the future face of global menswear by Interview Magazine. After a health scare 10 years ago, he took up running to relieve anxiety and cope with stress. He has since founded the holistic running brand UNNA, which means "treat yourself" in Swedish. He now serves as the creative director.
Contributor: Adam Katz Sinding
Founder & Creative Director
JOHN-RUBEN HOLTBACK
What changes have you seen influencing fashion culture?
I used to discover brands and designers by going to stores, feeling the fabrics, and trying on products. Twenty years ago, buying denim meant going downtown and touching it, you know? We had to invest time to really experience it. Now, you can just go on social media, do a quick browse of a brand, and get an idea. However, this doesn't tell you much about the actual product, its quality, or the depth of detail.
We've shifted a lot from focusing on product quality, to product presentation and branding. I see an opportunity in finding new ways to showcase products and be an influential source. Today, brands are more defined by their vibe than by the people wearing them. Customers lean into that vibe, so try to own it.
Do you think brick-and-mortar can have a resurgence in this environment?
Yeah, I miss the personal relationships you could build with the well-respected and passionate sales staff; these people educated me. It's just so hard to get that online. I'm not the type to post questions on Reddit; I prefer face-to-face interactions. Therefore, I believe physical retail has a role to play in the future, focusing more on the local community and bringing like-minded people together.
Staple wardrobe item?
I've been wearing my silver necklace from my friend Jonatan's brand, Kultur 5, a lot. I love it, and soon I think I need to get the bracelet too.
Do you think accessories are important, or is it just that piece that you’re drawn to?
Nowadays, I’m quite inspired by styling in general. Since entering the sports space, I’ve enjoyed merging and contrasting sports and technical clothing with wider tailored silhouettes, wool knits, jewelry, and similar items. Running with a necklace that has zero function and might even slow you down is a playful nod to all the performance-focused people out there—I don’t care.
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Connect with JOHN-RUBEN on Instagram
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SPOTLIGHT: NICOLAS BAROSI
Multidisciplinary Creative Nicolas-Barosi explores his desire to grow his brand and the nuanced connection between sociology and fashion as he sits down with Adam Katz Sinding.
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Pursuing an editorial path in fashion must have been quite exciting. What sparked that journey for you?
Essentially, it started because I wanted a cashmere sweater, and my mom said, “I am happy to buy you a sweater, but it’s not going to be cashmere. If that’s what you want, I suggest you get a job and buy it yourself.” So, I went to the nicest clothing store in town, Joseph P. Roth and Sons, and asked them if they needed any help after school or on weekends, and they said, “YES.” I have been working ever since. I was 16 when I started working.
So, the question is…how many cashmere sweaters do you own now?
I recently counted 47…I feel like there could be more…somewhere.
Looking back at your 35 year career can you pinoint any individuals or experinces that you feel helped to shape your journey?
I honestly think that Peter Rizzo, who was my boss at Barneys New York (1987–89), taught me everything I know today. He taught me how to look at brands, the way a collection is designed, how to choose fabric, and how to refine my taste and point of view. He really was a master.
Were you a buyer at this time? How did you take his advice and make it your own?
Yes. I was first an assistant buyer, then got promoted to buyer. In stores, buyers are called merchants. I really believe it was the best training I could ever have. It’s analytical, it’s creative, and it’s how I developed taste and a point of view. I just listened and soaked up everything, or as much as I could. It’s as if I knew this would last only a couple of years, so I truly made the most of it.
FW25/26 Advanced Contemporary Women's Buyer's Guide
This product forward guide further illustrates the Design Aesthetics presented in the Women's Trends Digital Session and deeply delves into the key must-have items for the season - from apparel to footwear and accessories.
FW25/26 WOMEN'S TRENDS dIGITAL SESSION
An interactive live presentation of key seasonal products, color trends, patterns, and graphic shifts in apparel, footwear, and accessories across women's markets.
