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Welcome to Oz: the unmistakable sight of Sydney harbour, with its Opera House to the fore

In Australia, warm weather comes with a warm welcome. Though the natural attractions are jaw-dropping and the food and drink scene is world-leading, what makes a trip Down Under truly memorable is the Australian people. Sunrise surfers always armed with a “g’day”, enthusiastic winery staff pouring the latest vintage, and Aboriginal guides willing to share their 60,000-year-old culture – these are the people that will have you feeling right at home. Eight friendly, accessible gateway cities hum with energy, and open out to a world of wildlife-packed islands, riveting World Heritage sites and wine regions that invite your indulgence. Wherever you fly into, you’ll find adventure there for the taking.

Go urban Down Under to discover cultural, architectural and culinary treasures as diverse as the country’s wildlife. And you’re never far from that, either…

a beginner’s guide

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Australia’s great cities

The Adelaide Oval is one of the world’s great cricket grounds. Surrounded by parklands, it retains its characterful manual scoreboard and grassy bank. But the views are even better from the top, as you scale the curving, scalloped rooftop as part of the RoofClimb experience, which is not for the faint-hearted. Climbers journey along a purpose-built path and those who dare can try the “lean-out” to strike a pose 50m over the field of play, or simply sit in the world-first rooftop seats. An entirely fitting adventure for sports-mad Adelaide. The city loves its food and drink too. Adelaide Central Market heaves with vigorously specialist stalls and delis, while nearby Gouger Street dedicates itself to great Asian restaurants. Elsewhere, Norwood Parade has a strong European influence, Rundle Street does historic pubs and family-run cafés, while Peel Street is the spot for cocktails and craft beers. But it is wine that Adelaide is famous for, and justifiably so. Three of the world’s greatest wine regions – the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills – are within an hour’s drive of the city centre. And you don’t even have to go that far for a behind the scenes tour at the historic Penfolds Magill Estate, lying just a 15-minute drive from the centre of the city.

ADELAIDE

Flitting between the cellar doors and tasting the range of wines is a consistently enjoyable way to spend a day. The vibe is always friendly, with staff delighted to share their knowledge and steer you towards the perfect varietal for your tastes. There’s plenty of wildlife close by too, most famously on Kangaroo Island, but also on the outskirts of the city, where you can spot koalas and abundant birdlife while bushwalking in the Morialta Conservation Park. Or take the tram down to the city’s most popular beach in Glenelg to swim with the resident dolphin pod on a Temptation Sailing cruise. After saying goodbye to the dolphins, it’s time to combine Adelaide’s sporting and dining passions in a much simpler form – a game of beach cricket, then fresh fish and chips on the Glenelg sand. Sometimes in Australia, the simple pleasures can be just as memorable as the once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

Perfect pitch: the city's Oval cricket ground means sports fans will never be stumped for something to do

Early in the morning, from a hot air balloon in Canberra, kangaroos bound in the fields below, then the interlocking pattern of grand avenues and neatly spaced circles comes into view. The Australian capital is an entirely planned city, where everything has its place and purpose around the calm waters of Lake Burley Griffin. Within that grand design are several striking landmarks, all as fascinating on the inside as they are unusual on the outside. The public has remarkably open access to the grass-topped Parliament House, the interior of which is also, essentially, a giant art gallery of showstopper installations. The Museum of Australia, meanwhile, looks outwardly like a blizzard of architectural fever dreams mashed together. Inside it tells hundreds of Australian stories, from life in outback opal-mining towns to the growth of surfing. The Australian War Memorial, on the other hand, takes a profoundly moving look at Australia’s role in the two world wars and conflicts since. At the end of the day, people who have gathered here fall silent for the Last Post ceremony by the Pool of Reflection. It is a beautiful, haunting moment.

CANBERRA

Canberra is packed with high-quality cultural attractions but it is a living city too. Chat to locals at the microbreweries and markets, and they’ll happily point you towards their favourite coffee stop or comfort-food restaurant. But the bush surroundings in the foothills of the Australian Alps offer a real departure, with lakes, forests and valleys just a few minutes from the city centre. At Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, the walking trails vary from short, accessible strolls to big hikes into the hills. The common denominator, however, is wildlife. Most of Australia’s iconic species can be found here – emus, echidnas, kangaroos and wallabies are particularly plentiful. The capital’s blend of culture and country makes it special.

Local knowledge

‘At the cellar door, doing a Taste of Grange tour and tasting is what it’s all about. Trying the wines in the setting they were sourced makes you understand them that much more.’

Steph Dutton, senior red winemaker, Penfolds

Local knowledge

‘Parliament House is like a mini city. We’ve got incredible teams of caterers, carpenters and everything in between. Visitors are amazed by the scale of it.’

Catherine Roach, visitor services manager at Australian Parliament House

While snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef, you expect to see the colourful coral. What you’re not prepared for is the sheer number of bright, vivid fish darting around in front of your eyes. Cairns, in tropical northern Queensland, has long been the handiest gateway to the Great Barrier Reef. Dozens of reef trips depart from here, all tailored to different tastes. Some head out to resort islands, some cater primarily to divers and some are great all-rounders, offering underwater viewing decks, semi-submersible boat trips and helicopter flights over the coral banks and atolls. You can even do a Dreamtime tour, which explores the historic relationship between the local Aboriginal people and reef ecosystem. But Cairns’ secret is that the reef is just one of many great daytrip destinations. You can head north to the ancient Daintree Rainforest for Indigenous cultural tours at Mossman Gorge or nature-focused river cruises. You can take the scenic railway or a cable car up to the markets and wildlife parks of Kuranda. Or you can go for a glorious drive around the Atherton Tablelands’ coffee farms, wild waterfalls and platypus-inhabited creeks.

Cairns

Cairns is much more than just a base for day trips, though. The Botanic Gardens are both gorgeous and fascinating, with walking routes taking you through the evolution of plants or looking at traditional Aboriginal bush foods and medicines. Along the waterfront Esplanade there are open-air restaurants serving globe-spanning cuisines, while the gigantic Esplanade lagoon – one of the world’s great swimming pools – is free for all. This is a city that likes to let its hair down too. Come nightfall, the bars and clubs embrace the party spirit. Nowhere tries to be too cool for school – after a day spent in extraordinary environments, a night out in Cairns is about unabashed fun.

Dive deeper: Cairns is a gateway for scuba enthusiasts taking in the Great Barrier Reef and a host of other sites

Local knowledge

‘The reef’s lesson is that we don’t live in a vacuum – we are all components of a bigger picture. I love every day I spend on the reef – in 30 years I’ve never lost that sense of awe and connection. ‘Our Coral Nurturing project is one of the first times scientists and tour operators have worked side by side on Great Barrier Reef conservation. Participating helps our guests understand that – while the reef is fragile and needs our protection – it’s also a dynamic system that can heal itself, given the opportunity. Through participating in citizen science, guests personally contribute to making the world a better place.’

ALAN WALLISH, FOUNDER OF PASSIONS OF PARADISE, A TOUR OPERATOR FOCUSED ON SUSTAINABILITY, REEF EDUCATION AND RECOVERY INITIATIVEs

The shared moment when the sun goes down over Mindil Beach is special. The Mindil Beach Sunset Markets in Northern Territory capital Darwin are a fizzing mix of street entertainers, handmade crafts and pan-Asian food stalls. But when the sky turns orange, everyone steps onto the sand in hushed awe. Those not at Mindil Beach for sunset are probably out on Darwin Harbour, under sail and with tipple in hand on a sunset cruise. Darwin is an intoxicating mix of strong influences: Asian, outback, Aboriginal and bohemian culture all shine through. You can flit from jackfruit curry to dot painting gallery, classic Aussie pub to shops selling bright, floaty dresses. The visitor attractions are refreshingly unusual too. At Stokes Hill Wharf, VR headsets immerse you in a Second World War Japanese bombing raid and you can learn how outback medical service the Flying Doctors gets medical help to remote communities. Or, in the heart of the city at Crocosaurus Cove, the Cage of Death experience lets you swim in a transparent acrylic cage next to some of the biggest crocodiles on Earth.

DARWIN

But the tropical feel is best experienced wandering through the lush Botanic Gardens. Here, each summer storm seems to turn the plants and trees a more vivid shade of green. Many locals today divide the year into the hot, humid wet season, from November to April, and the warm, sunny dry season, from May to October. But the Aboriginal people, who have inhabited the Northern Territory for 60,000 years, have a system of six seasons. You can discover much more about that in Kakadu National Park, less than a two-hour drive from Darwin. Here culture and nature coexist: among the joys in the park’s 20,000 square kilometres are several ancient rock-art sites, wildlife cruises run by Indigenous-owned companies, top-drawer wetland birdwatching and giant waterfalls that thunder down sandstone escarpments. Also close by is Litchfield National Park, where strange, giant termite mounds dot the horizon and seductive swimming holes are peppered along rugged ridge lines. Darwin’s proximity to adventure and awe-inspiring landscapes is a major part of the city’s appeal. But it’s a defiantly distinctive destination in its own right too.

Local knowledge

‘We’ll still be doing this long after it’s time to retire. It’s not just a job; We teach visitors about bush foods, about the way we move across the land according to the seasons and the many ways we use the plants around us, from medicine to using the fibres to make baskets and mats.’

Lynette Kenyon, Pudakul Aboriginal Cultural Tours

Hobart could be forgiven for relying on its heritage. The colonial era buildings around Battery Point and Salamanca Place give Tasmania’s capital city a rich, historic feel and the Port Arthur World Heritage site is a short drive away. Then again, Hobart could also be forgiven for relying on its natural beauty. The gorgeous natural harbour is perfect for kayaking. Cruises down the River Derwent take in the cheery Iron Pot Lighthouse, craggy cliffs and islands teeming with seabirds. Wonderful harbour views are plentiful from majestic Kunanyi/Mount Wellington, which overlooks the city. Around Hobart there are several opportunities to see native wildlife, with wallabies, seals and penguins commonly sighted. The elusive Tasmanian devil takes a bit more effort to spot, but sightings are guaranteed at the Bonorong Sanctuary, which is part of a network of Tasmanian wildlife parks playing their part in protecting these endangered marsupials.

HOBART

Of course, Hobart is also known for its food-and-wine scene. The neighbouring Huon and Coal River Valleys have become gourmet hubs, producing pinot noirs and whiskies that rival the world’s best. You’ll also find magnificent cheeses and handmade chocolates on the way. The truth is that Hobart has so many strings to its bow that it doesn’t have to rely on any one of them. You can jump from buzzy waterside markets to eating fish and chips on a floating punt, then try fresh oysters on Bruny Island or learn to surf at Clifton Beach. It’s a capital that has gained a reputation for cool in recent years, with distinctive design hotels and perhaps the most delightfully outrageous art gallery in Australia. Mona – the Museum of Old and New Art – is built into the cliffs and run by iconoclastic millionaire David Walsh. Exhibits are frequently irreverent, shocking, saucy or a combination of the three. But Mona is not content to rest on its laurels, much like the petite but perky city it calls home.

Local knowledge

‘When he conceptualised Mona, David really wanted to reinvent the wheel. The presentation is not linear, like a normal museum. There’s no “correct” way to do it. It’s all about creating your own adventure.’

Led Emmett, guest attaché at Mona

The lofty views from Kings Park, looking over the big, blue bulges of the Swan River, make for a sensational introduction to Western Australia. In the river below, black swans glide, kangaroos hop around Heirisson Island and dolphins follow the ferry on its way to Fremantle, then Rottnest Island. Rottnest, with its dozens of white sand beaches, has several fabulous snorkelling spots close to shore. The island is also car-free and perfect for pootling around by bike. What’s more, it’s home to hundreds of quokkas, the outrageously cute marsupials that have become a social media hit thanks to their big smiles. There are plenty more photo opportunities in Perth’s mural-painted lanes. The city centre has undergone a massive renaissance in the past decade, with cool café bars tucked away in tiny alleys and entire walls decorated with striking murals. Big-money development projects, such as Elizabeth Quay, a waterfront collection of hotels, restaurants and sculptures, have helped too. A walking tour will help you get your bearings.

PERTH

The railway line that once separated the heart of the city from the cultural and nightlife hub in Northbridge has been buried, replaced by gardens, parks, restaurants and bars. Perth is also somewhere to dine differently, exploring a pantry that Indigenous Australians have used for millennia. Several restaurants – notably Wildflower – are showcasing native ingredients such as finger limes, Kakadu plums and lemon myrtle. Heritage of a different kind is on display in Fremantle. This port city, half an hour from central Perth, has a cluster of convict-era buildings. Of these, the looming Unesco-listed Fremantle Prison is the highlight. Tours tell tales of colonial life, daring escapes and life behind bars. There are more great tales at the WA Maritime Museum and the Shipwrecks Museum – the latter covers gripping stories of mutiny, bravery and disaster from the early European exploration of Australia. Fremantle is not all about the past, though. It heaves with cafés, craft breweries and bold, swaggering restaurants inside former warehouses. Along with the wineries of the Swan Valley and the string of Indian Ocean beaches, it is a place that highlights Perth’s gleeful commitment to the good life.

Local knowledge

‘Where should people start in Perth? If you are a first-time visitor, I highly recommend exploring the downtown area of the city as well as Northbridge. There are lots of places to hang out, shop or grab a bite to eat.’

Ryan Mossny, Two Feet & a Heartbeat walking tours

Few cities combine high energy and the great outdoors like Sydney. No matter how you tackle Sydney Harbour – on a sailing cruise, kayaking between dainty cove beaches, climbing the Harbour Bridge – it is an unquestioned stunner. Sydney also lets you drink in those views while eating world-class food. Harbourside neighbourhoods such as Barangaroo, the Rocks and Woolloomooloo offer showpiece steakhouses and marvellous modern Australian restaurants in prime locations. Big and bold rules by the harbour but elsewhere in the city, buzz and inventiveness are key. In Surry Hills and Darlinghurst, sharing plates, expertly sourced quality produce, locally roasted coffee and experimental cocktails are the driving forces. In the Inner West, fabulously affordable Asian restaurants mix with craft breweries and a thriving street art scene. And at the beaches, juice bars, gelaterias and mellow brunching cafés abound.

SYDNEY

Those beaches are part of what makes Sydney special. There are dozens of them, and each has its own vibe. Clovelly offers great snorkelling, Bronte is family-focused, Bondi brings the people-watchers and Manly is one of several spots where you can tame the waves with a beginner’s surfing lesson. These beaches are tied together by majestic walking trails. From Bondi to Coogee, you’ll find high cliffs, crashing waves, sculptures and quaint parks. From The Spit to Manly Walk, it’s forested gullies, cascading water and Aboriginal rock art, with the odd brush-tailed possum or bandicoot scuttling through the national parkland. There’s plenty more wildlife among the deep, eucalyptus-shrouded valleys of the Blue Mountains, a 90-minute drive to Sydney’s west. Here, kangaroos bound around campgrounds, birdsong accompanies bushwalks and waterfalls plunge down cliff faces. Sydney can be about the big moments – the New Year’s Eve fireworks, the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras, Ashes Test matches, the Vivid Sydney light festival or public concerts by the Opera House. But that morning swim in a harbourside pool or stroll beneath the blooming jacaranda trees can be just as memorable.

Local knowledge

‘When you’re standing on that stage and you look out into the audience and see 1,500 people on their feet cheering, it’s just such a joyful experience. It’s extraordinary.’

Lyndon Terracini, artistic director of Opera Australia

Discover more about Australia’s great cities

Grape expectations: touring the vineyards around Adelaide is a must for wine enthusiasts

Fresh look: head to Central Market to discover a wealth of local produce and specialist food stalls

Stepping out: the foothills of the Australian Alps, minutes from Canberra, are great for hikers of all abilities

Long view: a balloon flight over Canberra reveals distant horizons and the city in all its greenery

Big hand: drop in on Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve and show your appreciation to the echidnas

Branch line: the Kuranda Scenic Railway takes in engineering marvels and the spectacular Daintree rainforest

Curiosity is heartily rewarded in Melbourne, and you’ll usually be glad you explored what lies off the main streets. The city’s laneways heave with specialist coffee shops, quirky bars and impressive street art. The result is one of the most vibrant city centres on Earth, where you can eat Indigenous dishes at Esso in Federation Square one day, and Peruvian or Armenian food the next. Stumble upon one semi-hidden bar, and the locals will tell you where to find more. One might have a science lab theme, while the next could be inspired by Alice in Wonderland. But Melbourne’s energy isn’t confined to the city centre – the suburban neighbourhoods fizz too. Southbank offers flashy destination restaurants and flame towers by the Yarra River. Brunswick Street in Fitzroy is all about bohemian shopping, vegetarian dining and live music in pubs. Chapel Street does chic, and St Kilda does cake shops and beach lifestyle.

MELBOURNE

Melbourne is ridiculously easy to explore under your own steam, but a guided experience can reward with lashings of local insight. At the Melbourne Cricket Ground, a behind-the-scenes tour of the cathedral of cricket shows just how much goes into big match days. And in the Royal Botanic Gardens, the Aboriginal Heritage Walk gives an insight into how the Indigenous people of the local Kulin nation have used the plants as tools, food and medicine for thousands of years. Melbourne is a day tripper’s delight too. An hour or so from the city centre are a wealth of wine regions, national parks and indulgent experiences. You might plump for the natural spas of Daylesford, the prestige wineries of the Yarra Valley or the surf beaches at the start of the Great Ocean Road. The Mornington Peninsula, meanwhile, offers wineries galore, plus the chance to swim with sea lions and sea dragons (a relative of the sea horse). And perennial favourite Phillip Island is where you can take a coastal wildlife cruise before watching dozens of penguins waddle home to their nests every evening. Melbourne is not just a thrilling city to explore – it’s a gateway to much of what makes Australia such a rewarding holiday destination.

Town and country: you can sample Melbourne's urban edge, left, and nearby surf spots on the same day

Local knowledge

‘This stadium has seen a lot of history. Many visitors to Melbourne, even if they’re not sports fans, will come just to see the grandeur of the place.’

Paul Wilhelm, guide at Melbourne Cricket Ground

Fired up: develop a passion for natural knowledge on the Royal Botanic Gardens’ Aboriginal Heritage Walk

Sundowners: Mindil beach brings together visitors and locals alike for a spectacular, serene end to the day

By the pool: Litchfield National Park offers plenty of chances to get close to nature

Toothsome: in the heart of Darwin, Crocosaurus Cove allows visitors to get close to Australia’s saltwater crocodiles

Capital view: wrap up warm for a trek to Mount Wellington to enjoy incredible vistas overlooking Hobart

Ready for your close-up? Quokkas, the unfeasibly cute marsupials, are a big draw on Rottnest Island

From bush to table: restaurants in Perth are now using ingredients Indigenous Australians have used for millennia

First and foremost: the museum celebrates the cultural heritage of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples

Board meeting: join Bondi's surfers or just stroll the sand and people-watch

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Illustration: Elen Winata for Bridge Studio

Perth

DARWIN

ADELAIDE

CANBERRA

HOBART

SYDNEY

MELBOURNe

CAIRNS

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Where the art is: the WA Museum Boola Bardip features eight permanent galleries

Ancient gallery: Indigenous rock paintings at Injalak Hill, a few hours’ drive from Darwin

Simple pleasures: treat yourself to fresh fish and chips on Glenelg jetty

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Kangaroo central: Canberra is often referred to as ‘the bush capital’ as it has so many urban reserves

Ancient gallery: Indigenous rock paintings at Injalak Hill, a few hours’ drive from Darwin

Where the art is: the WA Museum Boola Bardip features eight permanent galleries

Out of the past: Hobart's Battery Point is home to dramatic colonial-era buildings

Capital view: wrap up warm for a trek to Mount Wellington to enjoy incredible vistas overlooking Hobart

Board meeting: left, join Bondi’s surfers; Bronte beach, with its laid-back vibe and easy swimming, is popular with families

Capital view: left, wrap up warm for a trek to Mount Wellington to enjoy vistas overlooking Hobart; local legend, the endangered Tasmanian devil

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