FREDERIC MALLE INTERVIEW

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Scents and sensitivity Perfume became part of Frédéric Malle’s life very early on

behind some of the world’s most recognisable and evocative scents. He is also lauded for revolutionising the industry by overtly crediting the great artists he invites to create his celebrated “éditions”. Here, the olfactory visionary shares his love of fragrance and reveals how it has shaped his life.

Essence of genius

Born into a family of distinguished perfumers, Frédéric Malle was surely destined to head up his own house of fragrance. Here, the world-renowned éditeur de parfums talks through his longstanding love affair with scent

t’s impossible to discuss classic fragrances without Portrait of a Lady coming up in conversation, and with good reason. It comes from Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle – and Malle is the man

I remember the scent I wore aged 15 – I felt so attractive!

I love amber, patchouli, rose, jasmine… classic ingredients. But I see ingredients as words – it really depends on what you want to say

The power of perfume Malle believes ‘the right scent is not only pleasurable but a type of armour’

What’s in a name? Creators, such as Maurice Roucel, get the credit they deserve with prominent billing on Éditions de Parfums labels

What does “signature scent” mean to you? I love the idea of someone always smelling the same; there’s something very beautiful in it. But it’s not mandatory. My grandfather [Serge Heftler-Louiche, founder of Parfums Christian Dior] gave Miss Dior to someone when she was 18. She’s now in her eighties and still wears it – it suits her. But I can also understand why you might wear one perfume in summer and another in winter; perfumes can dress you, like clothes. Some people use scent to express the diversity of their persona, to play up different facets of themselves. Which camp do you fall into? I wear a different scent every day because I work on different scents. I go from one character to another. But I wear two or three on a regular basis on weekends.

How would you describe your relationship with scent? It’s a big part of my life. I was made aware of scent at a very early age because my mother worked at a perfume brand. Then, I suppose, once your mind focuses on it, you understand how important scent is – and it becomes part of your life. Has that relationship changed over time? There were a few important periods. First, when I discovered girls and seduction and how important scent was to that. I remember the scent I wore aged 15 – I felt so attractive! Through working in this industry since I was 26, it’s become not only part of my professional life but my identity too. So I’ve thought a lot about the connection between people’s characters and what they want to project in the scent they wear. The more I know, the more exciting it gets.

What inspires you? Do you have a muse? I try things on my wife and family. But it’s more of a practical thing, to see what the perfume really smells of. As a perfume evolves, I picture it on a specific “character” and stay true to that till the end. It’s a way for me to stay on track: the perfumes we create tell a story, they’re not crowd-pleasers. Which ingredients do you find yourself returning to? I love amber, patchouli, rose, jasmine… very classic ingredients. But I see ingredients as words – it really depends on what you want to say. Ingredients are just instruments.

How do you want people to feel wearing one of your fragrances? Comfortable: it should fit like a glove. The right scent is not only pleasurable but a type of armour. People who wear Portrait of a Lady, for example, say they feel stronger when they wear it. I want people to feel strong, but themselves. Is there a scent you wish you could bottle but can’t? No, but there are moments. For instance, that scent when you walk on snow in the mountains on a winter’s night, when the air is crisp and you can smell chimneys far away. Many perfumers try to recreate that smoky type of fragrance, but it’s always disappointing because the excitement is in the contrast of the cold night and the warm scent – it becomes banal in the lab. It’s the environment and the memory. In a bottle, you lose the charm of the moment.

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To book a personalised fragrance consultation and discover your own signature scent, visit fredericmalle.co.uk