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Where Eating is a guaranteed good time
Cord Jefferson goes gonzo in vegas
The 19 Most Over-the-Top Restaurants in America
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Confessions of a Tableside Flambéur
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This is muffin top dining
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Welcome to Bazland, Where More is More
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Eat Your Art Out
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The Cup Overfloweth
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Full House
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Fun By Design
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five experts on why more is fun
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Plus!
From seafood towers to gold-Leaf tomahawks, find maps to the most over-the-top eating across America
Not only are restaurants fun again, they’re, like, really fun — like over-the-top Decline and Fall of Roman Civilization maximalist fun. Why? Myriad the reasons, many the factors. Could it be because the world’s ending anyway? (Climate change! Economic inequality! Why not go out with cheese pulls and flaming bananas?) Or could it just be the same human hunger for pleasure that’s animated our kind since prelapsarian times, now just supercharged with capital and amphetamined by social media? Regardless, like a catnipped kitty chasing a laser pointer, we the people are both jazzed and curious. So Eater went maximalist to the hilt. We went on a gonzo psycho-gustatory pilgrimage to the Land Where More Began: Las Vegas. We paid a visit to Molly Baz, whose new cookbook, More Is More, is an ode to going big, for all the cae sals and gorgigi sandos you can imagine. We found the hands-down most Big-Time Fun restaurants in America. We ate all the ’roni cups and rib eyes. We got full. We got sick. We got happy. We had fun to the max. — Joshua David Stein
WELCOME TO
A
fter three years of darkness, preceded by a kinda bummer five of schmancy, frowny food — you know, blond wood, backless barstools, everything is foraged, and the chef glowers silently — restaurants are fun again. Move over, sea buckthorn (you tart berry).
Helllooooo, caviar bumps, cocaine of the sea! Everything is illuminated… with neon lights. Everyone is seated in giant hand-shaped chairs or squiggly legged ones. Glasses are bird-shaped and stippled and bright. Plates are your grandmother’s most florid. There’s enough gold leaf to make a forest. And the food, strangely still important, is a bass-amped banger of influence and excess. Anything that can be done tableside is. And with brio.
The 19 Most
Funnest, Most Wildest, Most Over-the-Top Restaurants in America
Restraint is so passé
Bazland
Bazland
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