As in this Terroir Old Fashioned, Harrison Ginsberg’s use of high-concept, culinary techniques always has a true purpose; it is not merely a flex.
• If you ask nicely, one of the bartenders might make you a palo santo Paloma, a drink that began as an accident and is now an off-menu staff fave.
• The outdoor wraparound deck is open for seating (and those seats are heated) from late May through late September, but the door is always open for those who want to take in the view.
• Reservations are taken up to two weeks in advance, and while walk-ins are accepted (go right when they open), ressies are strongly recommended.
NICE TO KNOW
Within a 10-minute walk, you’ll find The Dead Rabbit, one of the city’s pioneering cocktail bars; Manhatta, a newer addition with a rival view; and New York’s oldest bar, Fraunces Tavern (established in 1762).
NOTABLE AND NEARBY
Perched atop the Art Deco 70 Pine, Overstory is a blush-colored ode to a bygone brand of New York glamour, right down to the bartenders’ custom suits. It’s the sort of bar that could easily support a very over-the-top cocktail program. But what’s to love about bar director Harrison Ginsberg’s style is his restraint. His drinks are elegant, and his use of high-concept, culinary techniques always has a true purpose; they are not merely a flex. So, yes, Overstory is a vibe (call it “gilded disco”); yes, the glassware is expensive (order the right drink and it may arrive in an El Mono Murano glass); and yes, the sultry rose gold glow of the room is designed to make everyone look hot. But this is not merely a showpiece. Take the trappings away, throw the Terroir Old Fashioned in a Libbey rocks glass and it’d still be on this list for the drinks and the hospitality alone. The trappings, however, do not hurt. Situated 64 floors above the street, Overstory’s wraparound terrace boasts some of the most breathtaking views in all of New York. As a full package, it sells a vision of the city one can’t help but want to buy (and sell).
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Around the corner on Grand Street, Fresh Kills (from Richie Boccato) has been quietly serving some of the best cocktails in Brooklyn for nearly a decade.
NOTABLE AND NEARBY
• When outdoor seating is available, the wisteria-draped garden (book ahead on Resy) might fool you into thinking you’re somewhere between Louisiana and Provence.
• While Maison excels at the A-list classics, look closely and you’ll find lovingly executed takes on B-side hits, like the Yellow Parrot and the Obituary, that make the case for revival.
NICE TO KNOW
The view from the wraparound deck at Overstory.
The palo santo Paloma is an off-menu favorite.
As in this Terroir Old Fashioned, Harrison Ginsberg’s use of high-concept, culinary techniques always has a true purpose; it is not merely a flex.
From left: The Manhattan Deluxe, served in an El Mono Murano glass; the Last Frontier, an Alaska variation; the palo santo Paloma.