In his illustrious career, Dave Arnold has been likened to: a mad genius, John McEnroe (for “forever arguing the bad calls being made by others”) and the Mythbusters. Based on those characterizations, you might imagine that a bar opened by Arnold in 2024—an era in which the novel techniques he pioneered have become standard practice at bars around the world—would be flashy, holier-than-thou, or some nerdy altar to high-tech machinery. You’d be mistaken. At Bar Contra, located on New York’s Lower East Side, all of the technical mastery Arnold is known for (he wrote a seminal book that reshaped the cocktail world) is there, without any self-importance. Though refined, the food, from chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra of Wildair, is playful: The “chicken wing,” stuffed with Stilton and pork sausage, riffs on classic sports bar Buffalo wings, while a Cracker Jack ice cream bar evokes the nostalgic snack. And the cocktails belie extensive R&D. Consider, for example, the Sagittarius B2, which requires, among other elaborate tools, both a centrifuge and a five-ton hydraulic press to create. The menu, however, simply describes the sour-like drink as “the taste of the center of the galaxy.” In other words, Bar Contra lets each offering speak for itself, but for anyone curious to dive deeper, the friendly staff are more than willing to let you in on the secrets.
It’s hard to pass by Cobra in Columbus, Ohio’s Brewery District and not feel tempted to drop in. The illuminated pylon sign is an unmissable beacon inviting all to flock to the self-described “good night bar.” In the year that it’s been open, it’s quickly become a favorite among local bartenders. Inside, the former Panera Bread space—its drop ceiling now painted black, and its faux-wood floors replaced with polished concrete—falls firmly within the realm of today’s trending “halfway decent” bars, that is, those self-deprecating establishments that promise nothing more than a good time. At Cobra, under the direction of co-owners David Yee and Alex Chien (who run the drinks side of the business, and met while working at Watershed Kitchen + Bar) the studied nonchalance that defines the category is imbued with thoughtful, Asian-inspired twists that make familiar cocktail blueprints feel novel. Take, for instance, the Above Ground Pool, the bar’s consistent best-seller, which builds on the crushable Margarita mold with additions of both mango and serrano-cilantro cordials, plus a spicy Sichuan salt rim. In keeping with the pared-back interior, there is little fanfare attached to how the drinks are presented. Cobra does not care to win you over with superfluous style, trusting instead that with a Kopiko Espresso Martini in hand and a bowl of housemade dan dan noodles in front of you, it can live up to its slogan and turn any night into a good night.
Force carbonation is a particular passion for Arnold, and the menu’s section dedicated to the technique is an excellent place to start. The Passion Fruit Lowball, created by bar manager Theo Ouya (left), is a standout.
At Bar Contra, Dave Arnold continues his science- and tech-driven approach to making excellent cocktails.
R&D
This drink requires no special equipment to make; rather, it builds on a flavor pairing that Arnold feels is underrated: rye and damson.
The bar’s “chicken wing” (left) and the Sagittarius B2 (right).
Force carbonation is a particular passion for Arnold, and the menu’s section dedicated to the technique is an excellent place to start. The Passion Fruit Lowball, created by bar manager Theo Ouya, is a standout.
At Bar Contra, Dave Arnold showcases his science- and tech-driven approach to cocktails.
Kopiko
Espresso Martini
Inspired by the Indonesian coffee candy Kopiko, this spin on the Espresso Martini triples down on coffee flavor.
With its studied nonchalance and playful cocktails, Cobra promises a good night, every night.
A riff on a Margarita, the Above Ground Pool is kicked up with mango and serrano-cilantro cordials and a spicy Sichuan salt rim.
The most popular option
from the bar’s dedicated boilermakers menu is the Broth Back, consisting of a
shot of Scotch complemented
by housemade savory broth inspired by Maruchan Ramen packets.
From chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra, the “chicken wing” is a playful riff on classic sports bar Buffalo wings.
The most popular option from the bar’s dedicated boilermakers menu is the Broth Back, consisting of a shot of Scotch complemented by housemade savory broth inspired by Maruchan Ramen packets.
Kopiko
Espresso Martini
Inspired by the Indonesian coffee candy Kopiko, this spin on the Espresso Martini triples down on coffee flavor.
A riff on a Margarita, the Above Ground Pool is kicked up with mango and serrano-cilantro cordials and a spicy Sichuan salt rim.
With its studied nonchalance and playful cocktails, Cobra promises a good night, every night.