I’m not going to sit here and tell you that Sayulita—a surf town 45 minutes north of Puerto Vallarta on Mexico’s Pacific coast—is some kind of secret. Maybe 15 or 20 years ago, but in the last five years? Not so much. But I’m also not going to tell you it’s not paradise—and that’s not just because they shot a season of Bachelor in Paradise here.
Along with huge palm trees, vibrant flowers, and fresh fruit aplenty—all staples of any place one might label “heaven”—Sayulita has a laid-back energy that attracts travelers from around the world to linger by the beach for weeks on end. From November to June, this pueblo mágico fills up with tourists (Mexican and gringo alike!) and digital nomads with plans to camp out in Riviera Nayarit, as well as devoted and novice surfers who’ve long known this little surf haven to be one of the world’s best. The town’s expansive shoreline has a fun longboard break that’s perfect for learning how to ride the waves—though don’t expect to stand up on your board every time, either; navigating these waters takes some serious practice.
On top of all that, Sayulita’s got solid Wi-Fi, a feast of Mexican fare and healthy food options that go well beyond street tacos (though that’s always an option!), and a dutiful party scene that regularly rages all the way until 6 am. Come to find a temporary home; come to improve your surfing skills; whatever the reason, just come. Because the secret’s out about this surf town—and it’s only going to get busier.
Come for the surf, stay for the fish tacos.
By Joel Balsam
Photos and video by Stephanie Foden
This Mexican
Surf Town Is Heaven for
Beach Bums and Digital Nomads
Despite its growth over the years, the heart of Sayulita still belongs to surfing; you can’t go more than a few minutes without seeing someone walking around town barefoot with a board tucked under their chiseled shoulder. If you’re going to take this opportunity to learn how to surf, David at Surf’n Sayulita is a great teacher with nearly two decades of experience, while LunAzul’s surf school, which faces Sayulita’s iconic sandbar, is a slightly more convenient option. Both do day trips to beaches around the Punta de Mita peninsula, where the ocean is more relaxed, the water’s cleaner, and there are fewer people fighting for every wave.
Meanwhile, scuba divers can hop on a boat with Sayulita Entourage for plunges at Islas Marietas, a set of islands just to the south often known as Mexico’s very own Galápagos. Keep an eye out for the vibrant coral reefs, migrating humpback whales, and blue-footed boobies found all throughout.
Rather stick to lazy days on the shore? No problem. Stroll north along Sayulita Beach past some rocky shoreline and forested areas until you land at Playa Malpaso, a gorgeous stretch of sand you can often get all to yourself. You can also walk in the opposite direction and hit up either Playa de Los Muertos (named because of the cemetery close by) or Playa Carrititos, the spot for Sayulita sunsets.
Hang ten or hang out
The closest airport to Sayulita is Puerto Vallarta International (PVR). Skip taking a taxi into town; the ones at the airport are a total ripoff. Instead, exit to your left and cross a pedestrian bridge to take a bus to Sayulita for just $50 pesos ($2.30) or call an Uber, which should run you around $500 pesos ($23.50). If you do ultimately opt for a city taxi, a fair price to pay is about $600 pesos ($28.65).
Getting to Sayulita
Towering over Sayulita is Monkey Mountain which, at nearly 1,000 feet, is the tallest peak in the area and makes for a worthwhile (and relatively strenuous) climb. The hike takes between 2-4 hours round trip, depending on whether you start from the Higuera Blanca trailhead or take the longer, more complicated Sayulita route. Either way, your hard work will be rewarded with 360-degree views of the ocean, the surrounding jungle, and a league of dancing butterflies. Oh, and don’t bother looking for monkeys—the mountain apparently looks like a monkey when seen from Sayulita, but you won’t find any critters running around.
Other jungly things to do include going roaring through the thicket on an ATV or RZR buggy; ziplining between mountains on wires that stretch three-quarters of a mile through the canopy; or checking out shops that sell colorful beaded sculptures made by the indigenous Huichol people from the surrounding area. (Fun fact: The Huichol used to paint their designs with natural ingredients, but transitioned to Czech beads when the Spanish colonized present-day Mexico.) And if you’re too tuckered out to make your way back into Sayulita at the end of it all, make a home for yourself in the jungle at this Airbnb cottage tucked into the trees.
Swing through the jungle Tarzan-like
Do a food crawl down the shoreline
When in Sayulita, it’s advisable to pair cheap margaritas with some of the cheesiest nachos you’ll ever eat at Aaleyah’s if you want to get any night out started right. Next, head over to Cava to sip Oaxacan mezcal with chili salt and orange slices or to El Zouave, a hangout with a North African vibe that’s beloved by Sayulita’s longer-term expats. When you’re ready to turn things up, DJs at Yambak tend to draw crowds, and Don Pato, a multi-level club with views over the plaza, is where wild nights usually end up.
Staying in? Grab a bottle of Mexican wine or mezcal Salvaje from Sayulita Wine Shop, which also does wine flights and has live bossa nova shows on Wednesdays from 5-9 pm.
Sip mezcalitas and margaritas
If you’re looking to splurge, boutique hotel Siete Lunas is gorgeous, with seven cliffside villas tucked away from the blaring speakers that you might find in other spots on the shore. Selina, part of a chain of upscale hostels, is ideal if you’re a digital nomad looking to socialize with other transients and/or get work done; it’s got a pool and daily activities like salsa nights, capoeira classes, and daily yoga (one class is included with your stay), and there’s great Wi-Fi in the restaurant and coworking space.
Otherwise, Sayulita has plenty of desirable Airbnbs for short-term stays, including this private casita and this bright penthouse suite. Long-term rentals are becoming more and more scarce, so your best bet may be to hang around a while if you can and see what opens up; rentals trend around the $1,000 range, but there’s still the occasional deal to be found.
Joel Balsam is a Canadian freelance journalist and guidebook author who writes for Lonely Planet, National Geographic, TIME, BBC Travel, and more. His home base is Montreal, but he can often be found tasting his way through a packed market somewhere.
Want more Thrillist? Follow us on Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, YouTube, TikTok, and Snapchat.
Where to stay in Sayulita
Writer: Joel Balsam
Editors: Tony Merevick and Tiana Attride
Editor-in-Chief: Helen Hollyman
Editorial Director: Pete Dombrosky
Photos and video by: Stephanie Foden
Photography Director: Drew Swantak
Senior Designers: Maggie Rossetti
Creative Director: Audra V Pace
Credits
As you likely know, Mexico gets food, and Sayulita is no exception. Kick off your day at Anchor Cafe—which, for the nomadic bunch, graciously offers laptop-friendly seating if you need to get a little work done—with thick banana bread French toast and heavenly chia pudding topped with a fruit smoothie. On Friday mornings from November through May, plan to do a food crawl at the weekly Mercado del Pueblo, where you’ll find artisanal everything, from vegan cheese to tamales and kefir, as well as live music and a litany of local knickknacks.
On the beach, Frente al Punto has arguably the best setup in town, with comfy lounge chairs and tasty cocktails to sip, including the spicy mango margarita and their specialty, the jet-black Black Mamba, made with lemon, basil, agave syrup, and mezcal. The food here is equally great: get the shrimp-and-cheese el Gobernador tacos and the incredibly hearty bacon double cheeseburger.
While we’re on the subject of heartiness, go early to avoid the lineup at El Itacate, which is known for tacos piled high with different cuts of steak as well as for another, even more heartburn-inducing creation: a burrito where fried cheese replaces the tortilla.
The fried coconut shrimp with a pineapple sauce worth bathing in at El Jakal, an unpretentious seafood restaurant, is this writer’s personal favorite snack in town. And for a break from Mexican food and fish tacos (the best of which are at The Real Fish Taco, for the record), check out Achara. At this Thai spot helmed by Australian-born New Yorker Sam Frances, the food is spicy and the cocktails, fun; try the Pad Thai or duck leg curry with an electric-purple Gin n’ Juice.
RELATED: 5 Must-Visit Beach Towns on Mexico's Most Laid-Back Coast
RELATED: The Best Spots in Mexico for an Unforgettable Beach Vacation
RELATED: What to Do in Puerto Escondido, Mexico’s Chillest Surf Town
Photos and video by: Stephanie Foden
Photography Director: Drew Swantak
Senior Designer: Maggie Rossetti
Creative Director: Audra V Pace
