Kirip Truman

Self-taught bartender Toru Kiriyama uses gas chromatography, an analytical chemistry technique, to find unexpected flavor matches in his array of original cocktails. Try the Strange Coco, with asparagus, sesame, jasmine and almond, all of which share a chemical compound, or his On Her Palm cocktail, built around gamma-decalactone, an aroma compound prevalent in peach and wagyu beef, which come together to great effect in the glass. Kiriyama is also Osaka’s foremost proponent of low- and no-alcohol drinks, using housemade capsaicin vinegar to trick taste receptors into perceiving the “burn” of booze where there is none. The cozy bar room, festooned with branches, offers a view of the Tosabori River.

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