Day 3 - Day 4
Adelaide & Hills
Day 5 - Day 6
Fleurieu Peninsula
Day 1 - Day 2
Limestone Coast
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Despite our superbly satisfying breakfast, we were quite ready to tuck in to what might be the finest beef in Australia next. Nestled away on a quiet farm some 30 minutes away is Mayura Station, internationally renowned as one of the nation’s most awarded beef producers and restaurant. The secret to its top-quality full-blood Wagyu: finishing cattle nourished with a sweet treat added to their feed. According to Mayura Station’s sous chef and front of house supervisor Megan Medhurst, the finishing cattle eat up to 2kg of candy (or “lollies”, as Aussies call it) and chocolate mixed into their feed every day for about three months. This adds a distinct sweet and buttery flavour to the beef, and contributes to its unrivalled, melt-in-your-mouth texture. The farm overlooks paddocks of grazing cattle, as Mayura Station prides itself on adopting a paddock-to-plate approach by growing its own cattle feed to focus on quality and sustainability.
Millicent
To celebrate an amazing two days spent in the Limestone Coast, we decided to travel an hour out to the charming, historic fishing town of Robe to enjoy a cold one at Robe Town Brewery. The family-run microbrewery is the only wood-fired brewery in Australia — one of only a few left around the world, in fact. The original Robe Town Brewery was established in 1869 by prominent local citizen George Lord Senior. Fast forward over a century, husband-and-wife team Maris and Kristi Biezaitis took over the reins in 2013 and added an artistic spin to their one-of-a-kind handcrafted brews. The Biezaitises do everything meticulously by hand — from mashing malt in oak barrels and filtering through hay, to hand-bottling and designing their own bottle labels. We especially loved the refreshing and easy-to-drink Robe Town Pale Ale, as well as the seasonal release Magic Mulberry, a tangy fruit-based sparkling ale made from handpicked mulberries.
Robe
Day 1
Day 2
Just around the corner from Umpherston sinkhole is the famed Blue Lake, a spectacular crater lake set in one of many extinct volcanoes in the region. What’s most intriguing about it is this: Every November, the sombre, steel-grey waters of the lake turn a deep, luminous blue and stay that way until March of the following year. No one has been able to explain this phenomenon — though there have been theories floating about, such as the possibility of sunlight affecting the mineral deposits in the water. To date, it remains a marvellous mystery of nature. The Blue Lake is about 77 metres deep and has been supplying the town of Mount Gambier with drinking water since the 1880s. The original pumping station — now fully automated, in keeping with the times — still stands on the same spot.
We’re off on our great South Australian road trip, beginning on the southeastern stretch commonly referred to as the Limestone Coast. That’s because thousands of years ago, volcanic lava cooled to form limestone caves, which became the foundations of the region. A vast network of them still exists beneath Mount Gambier — our first stop — today. Dense, dry scrublands, characteristic of the region, soon became a blur, as we settled into a steady drive from the border of Victoria into South Australia. A short 25 minutes later, we were about to set eyes on one of the most breathtaking gardens we had ever seen. Descending into the depths of the Umpherston Sinkhole (also known as the Sunken Garden) in Mount Gambier is like being transported to a fairytale land. Originally a limestone cave, the sinkhole was formed when the cavern’s roof collapsed, leaving a gaping hole in the ground. In 1868, Mount Gambier local James Umpherston — from whom the sinkhole takes its name — bought the land and began transforming the sinkhole into a lush subterranean garden with trees, shrubbery, footpaths and terraces. Over time, the gardens and grounds fell into disrepair, but were later restored to its verdant glory, with the addition of native flora such as acacia, hydrangeas, banksia and acanthus. Gazing up from the bottom of the garden, we were rendered speechless by the otherworldly beauty of this tranquil sanctuary.
We’re up early to begin the day’s explorations, but first: Coffee and breakfast (yes, in that order). On a quick detour to the outskirts of Mount Gambier, we stopped in at Bay Blue Espresso Bar, where we paired an invigorating brew with the first of many scrumptious toasties we would savour on this trip. Back on the road again, we zipped past sheep-studded pastures, keeping our eyes peeled for curious wildlife by the roads. Half an hour later, the tree-lined Princes Highway peeked above the horizon, signalling our arrival at Tantanoola Caves Conservation Park, a hidden gem of the Limestone Coast. Set into a cliff face, the caves were formed from a mineralised limestone called dolomite, and accidentally discovered in 1930 by a 16-year-old boy who was out rabbit hunting with his ferret. Although one of the smallest caves in South Australia, Tantanoola more than makes up for it with its unspoilt beauty. Thousands of years in the making, the cave’s remarkable array of hanging formations called speleothems come in varying shades of peach, cream and brown. We were most impressed by the stunning “chocolate fountain”, a staggering column that reminded us of a Roman pillar.
Tantanoola
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Planning to sip our way to sunset, we drove on to Bellwether Wines, about 10 minutes away. Pulling into the driveway of the homely, rustic winery, we were first greeted by its resident donkey, then by its amiable director Sue Bell. The self-professed city girl-turned-winemaker bought the abandoned Glen Roy Shearing Shed in 2009. Since then, the sprawling property has morphed into a thriving boutique winery specialising in small-batch winemaking — and which, incidentally, is a campground offering guests a relaxing glamping retreat. After a long day’s drive, setting up camp in the warm, inviting Bell Tent with a glass of Bellwether red in hand was just what the doctor ordered.
After refuelling with food and caffeine, we’re ready to journey on — this time, past rows upon rows of scenic vineyards that heralded our imminent arrival at Limestone Coast’s main wine region Coonawarra, particularly known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, and for being the home of South Australia’s only Bubble Tent. As the name suggests, it is completely see-through (don’t worry, they come with privacy screens) and is luxuriously furnished with modern creature comforts such as a cushy king-sized bed, fridge, portable toilet and, of course, a bottle of Coonawarra Sauvignon. The best part: You get to fall asleep under a starry sky with a wondrous, unobstructed view to lull you to dreamland.
Coonawarra
Travel notes: If you’re visiting the sinkhole at dusk, you’ll be greeted by a friendly colony of brush-tail possums that love being fed fresh fruits — but no bread, cakes, biscuits or meat, please.
Umpherston Sinkhole Jubilee Highway East Mount Gambier SA 5290 Free entry; open daily from 6am to 1am
Travel notes: Make time (about 45 minutes, we reckon) for a leisurely stroll along the crater’s rim. The 3.6km trail is well-marked, with lookout points offering gorgeous, Insta-worthy vistas of the lake. It takes over an hour to drive from Mount Gambier to Coonawarra next, so we suggest having a bite before making your merry way. Word has it that Mount Gambier folks are huge fans of Nalou Kitchen, a popular local eatery, so of course we have it on our checklist, too. Our verdict: Their beautifully plated, hearty brunch meals taste as heavenly as they look.
Blue Lake John Watson Drive Mount Gambier SA 5290 Free entry; open daily.
Travel notes: Plan your stay at Coonawarra Bubble Tent during late spring or summer to avoid the winter chill. The bubble tent is not suitable for children below the age of 15, so parents travelling with young kids may have to skip this for now.
Coonawarra Bubble Tents 242 Comaum School Road, Coonawarra SA 5277 + 61 419 373 450
Travel notes: Bellwether Wines will be holding its signature Vintage Experience in March 2020. The one-week affair lets guests join in the wine-making process, such as picking and crushing grapes, fermenting and pressing, and cook for their fellow winemakers using fresh produce from Sue’s gardens. Not to be missed. Bell Tents are lovely for those who enjoy waking up to the rousing birdsongs of native galahs and cockatoos. But if you appreciate quiet mornings, opt for a stay at The Barn Accommodation, with its extremely spacious, stylish and comfortable suites. While you’re here, you absolutely have to dine at The Barn Steakhouse — famous for serving some of the region’s best local grain-fed beef since 1988 — located on the property.
Travel notes: Due to space constraints, Bay Blue Espresso Bar does not cater to big groups. They do, however, offer a text-and-collect service — 30 minutes’ notice required — for takeaway toasties, bircher bowls and coffee. The Tantanoola Caves remain a cool 17 degrees Celsius year-round, making it a perfect destination no matter when you’re travelling in South Australia. It is also the only wheelchair-accessible cave in the region.
Mayura Station 941 Canunda Frontage Road Millicent SA 5280 +61 8 8721 3000
Travel notes: We highly recommend the Chef’s Table experience. We sat around the grill enraptured, as chef Medhurst took us on a culinary learning journey about the various cuts of Wagyu and cooking styles, while working her magic before our eyes. The Chef’s Table experience only sits 10 pax, so bookings are essential; three- or four-course meal options are available.
Robe Town Brewery 10 White Street Robe SA 5276 +61 0415 993 693
Travel notes: For a scenic drive with a difference, try off-road beach driving on Long Beach at Robe. Cruising along the sweeping coastline with our windows down and watching the gentle waves of the blue-green waters roll by beside our vehicle was a most wonderful experience. Visit during the summer months when the sand is firmer, making it easier to drive on. Robe is also home to the Obelisk, an iconic landmark erected on Cape Dombey in 1852 to act as a warning beacon to passing ships. Sadly, the Obelisk has been steadily eroded by waves, so it is not safe to get close. However, we did find a nearby lookout point at Cape Dombey, where we drank in (literally, with pints in hand) a glorious sunset.
Bellwether Wines 14183 Riddoch Highway Coonawarra SA 5263 +61 0417 080 945
The Barn Accommodation 747 Glenelg River Road OB Flat (Mount Gambier) SA 5290 +61 08 8726 9999
Bay Blue Espresso Bar 45 Bay Road Mount Gambier SA 5290 +61 0436 365 737
Tantanoola Caves Conservation Park Princes Highway Tantanoola SA 5280 +61 08 8734 4153
Travel notes: Great for every budget, The Caledonian Inn also offers charming, cosy Cally Rooms for those travelling on a shoestring, as well as the mid-range Cottages by the Sea, a roomy, comfortable cottage that’s just right for families and smaller groups.
Feeling ravenous and ready for some seafood (we are, after all, in a coastal town), we made our way back to Robe’s town centre to hunt down Sails Restaurant, a local establishment helmed by chef Adam Brooks and his partner Anna Heffernan. Switching up its menu seasonally to the delight of local diners and tourists alike, Sails is particularly known for its Southern Rock Lobster, which boasts sweet and delicate, yet firm, flesh. The restaurant also makes it a point to include as much locally-sourced fresh produce as possible, and their variety of succulent, freshly-caught seafood is guaranteed to hit the spot. And, of course, we didn’t forget to round off our meal with some Coonawarra wine. Luckily for us, we found the perfect accommodation for the night just across the road, at The Caledonian Inn. Checking into the luxurious, private three-bedroom Splash House, we were wowed by the abundance of space, along with the beautiful view overlooking the bay that came with it. We’re officially ready to call it a night!
Sails Restaurant 2 Victoria Street, Robe SA 5276 +61 8 8768 1954
The Caledonian Inn 1 Victoria Street Robe SA 5276 +61 08 8768 2029
Mount Gambier
Umpherston Sinkhole
Nalou Kitchen 82 Commercial Street Mount Gambier SA 5290 +61 08 8725 2151
Tantanoola Caves Conservation Park
Mayura Station
Robe Town Brewery
Long Beach
The Obelisk
Coonawarra Bubble Tents
Bellwether Wines
Blue Lake
South Australian Tourism Commission
Entry fee for the cave tour applies; open daily from 10am to 3pm
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[Time spent here: Approx. 1 hour]
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[Time spent here: 30 mins]
Long Beach Esplanade Robe SA 5276
The Obelisk 5 Obelisk Road Robe SA 5276
The rumble of our bellies signaled that it was time for lunch, so we took the hint and stopped in at The Bistro at Stirling Hotel, which we later crowned our top coffee joint of the trip. But the food there is no slouch either — expect delicious classic brunch fare, with a crowd-pleasing selection of seasonal dishes featuring regional produce. Very much satisfied, we were eager to begin the journey to Cleland Wildlife Park, a short 10-minute drive from the bistro. One of the few places in Australia where you can actually hold a koala, Cleland is located in a natural bushland setting, where it is home to over 130 species of Australian wildlife. At Cleland, visitors can interact with and feed free-roaming kangaroos and emus in their natural habitat. It was a warm, sunny day when we visited so naturally, all the kangaroos were enjoying a siesta. But not to worry, we found some that were accommodating (and hungry), allowing us to feed them and get some great selfies. The emus took a while to warm up to us but were soon eating out of our hands, too.
Leaving the abundant greenery of Adelaide Hills behind as we travelled on, we spied buildings taking shape in the distance, a sure sign that we were nearing Adelaide. On the way, we stopped for a sunset stroll on the jetty of Glenelg, a beachside suburb where the first British settlers landed in 1836. A favourite among Adelaideans for its wide, white sand beach and for being only 20 minutes away from the city, Glenelg is a bustling community with many sidewalk cafes offering a stunning view of the sunset. With the last rays of the sun still visible in the distance, we sat down for an al fresco dinner at Sammy’s on the Marina. Specialising in sumptuous seafood platters, Sammy’s is a top-notch seafood restaurant that makes an effort to support local businesses by sourcing for its fresh supplies locally. Clinking glasses, we toasted to an amazing road trip experience thus far, and to even greater adventures over the next two days.
Adelaide
En route to our next destination, we stopped to stretch our legs at Coorong National Park, a scenic nature reserve and wetland ecosystem known for being a pelican observation point. The sanctuary also has a rich Aboriginal heritage, having been occupied by Ngarrindjeri Aboriginal people for thousands of generations. After the brief respite, we drove on steadily for the next hour until we arrived at Monarto Safari Park. Boasting the largest safari experience outside of Africa, Monarto is a huge open-range park spanning across 1,500 hectares of land. First established in 1983 as a breeding area for endangered animals, the park was officially opened to the public in 1993. One of the highlights of our visit was an especially close encounter with the king of beasts during the “Lions at Bedtime” feeding experience, where we were trusted to provide the lions their evening meal. Being within clawing distance of the majestic creatures — with only a metal screen separating us — and looking them in the eye as they gnaw away at their bedtime treat was such a surreal experience. Monarto is also particularly proud of housing the largest giraffe herd in Australia. At the Giraffe Viewing Platform, we had the pleasure of meeting Kinky — so named because of a distinct kink in her neck — and some of her friends in the herd.
Murray River, Lakes & Coorong
Kingston SE
For the next leg of our road trip, we’re rolling out of the Limestone Coast and moving towards Adelaide, the capital city of South Australia. Fun fact: Did you know that Adelaide locals are called Adelaideans? We didn’t either, and as we’ll soon discover, there’s plenty more to Adelaide than meets the eye. The first order of business, however, is breakfast. Checking out of our accommodation, we made a beeline for Drift Cafe, a hip, cosy establishment within walking distance from The Caledonian Inn. Sufficiently revived by the cafe’s aromatic coffee, we were ready to take on the day’s drive. Barely 30 minutes later, we spotted what looked like a tall, imposing… Lobster? We knew we had to get off the road to check it out. Turns out, Larry the Lobster is somewhat of an icon in his hometown of Kingston SE. The 40-year-old crustacean stands at an impressive 17m and is one of Australia’s famous “Big Things” — massive novelty structures or quirky attractions unique to small towns that make for great photo ops.
A mere 10 minutes down the road is Jurlique Farm, where Australia’s beloved nature-based organic skincare range originates. Jurlique started life in 1985, and until today, pledges a seed-to-skin philosophy, where it grows almost all the herbs and plants that go into its products, so that each ingredient can be traced back to the farm. The light, lingering floral scent of the farm made us feel like we were in an open spa. Taking us on a tour of the estate was farm production manager Cherie Hutchinson, who patiently explained the farm’s biodynamic processes, such as harvesting by hand to ensure that the herbs and plants picked are clean, and dirt- and bug-free. Jurlique grows over 30 different botanicals on the property such as lavender, yarrow, chamomile and pansies, as well as their signature roses — including the Jurlique rose, which Hutchinson says, is a hardier variety bred for Australian weather conditions.
Adelaide Hills
The next morning, we ventured two doors down to The Haus Hahndorf for breakfast, where we happily dug in to classic Aussie favourites, like thick-cut sourdough with Vegemite and Avocado Smash on toast. Because it’s strawberry season, our first stop of the day was Beerenberg Farm, located just outside Hahndorf. If you think the name Beerenberg sounds familiar, that’s probably because you have seen them everywhere (think: mini packages of strawberry jam served on planes and at hotel buffets). One of Australia’s oldest family-run farms, Beerenberg was originally founded in 1839 by German migrant Johann George Paech as a dairy farm. It was later renamed Beerenberg (meaning Berry on the Hill, in German). Today, the farm is run by the Paech family’s sixth generation. Out in the strawberry patches, there were plenty of huge, brightly-coloured strawberries for the picking. Their fresh, sweet scent wafted pleasingly across the fields and we spent an enjoyable hour picking — and sneaking nibbles — to our heart’s content.
After an action-packed day at the safari park, we were prepared to call it a day and start making our way towards our rest stop. Before long, bronze, burnished scrublands by the roads gave way to the lush, rolling green hills that give the Adelaide Hills region its name. In the heart of the hills lies the picturesque heritage town of Hahndorf, where South Australia’s early German community first settled in 1839. Driving down the tree-lined avenue of the main street, we quickly fell in love with the quaint streetscape populated with charming bakeries, cafes, galleries, traditional sweets shops and artisanal craft stores. Dinner, of course, had to be German cuisine. The Hahndorf Inn, owned and managed through the generations by the Holmes family, has been faithfully dishing up classic Bavarian bites and house brews for over a century, so we knew we wouldn’t go wrong there. Try the Deluxe platter if you fancy a bit of everything from schnitzel to bratwursts, or go all out with the Giant Hotdog — estimated to be about four hands’ length (yes, we measured) — if you’re up for the challenge. Boutique motel The Manna by Haus, located in the heart of Hahndorf, was our base for the night. With modern, comfortable Scandinavian-inspired furnishings, it felt like a home away from home.
Hahndorf
Travel notes: In preparation for a long drive, make a pitstop at Larry the Lobster and pick up a takeaway seafood platter, warm salad or sandwiches at Janet’s Takeaway to enjoy on the road.
Drift Cafe 3 Victoria Street Robe SA 5276 +61 08 8768 1934
Travel notes: Monarto is very strict about visitors’ attire for the “Lions at Bedtime” feeding experience, so make sure to wear close-toed, flat shoes, and avoid loose-fitting clothing for your safety. The safari park also offers many other animal experiences that let you get up close and personal with its furry residents, such as Tasmanian devils, cheetahs, giraffes and meerkats.
Monarto Safari Park Old Princes Highway Monarto Souths Murraylands SA 5254 +61 8 8534 4100
Travel notes: If you have time to spare, Hahndorf is worth staying for a little while to bask in its charm. Consider taking a guided walking tour offered by Hahndorf Walking tours (tel: +61 477 288 011) to hear first-hand the history behind this richly storied town.
The Manna by Haus 25 Mount Barker Road Hahndorf Adelaide Hills SA 5245 +61 8 8388 1000
Hahndorf Inn Restaurant 35 Main Road Hahndorf Adelaide Hills SA 5245 +61 8 8388 7063
Travel notes: Strawberry season starts from November to April each year. Check the website on the day you intend to visit to make sure that the patch is open. You will be charged a field entry rate, as well as a per kilo rate for the strawberries you pick. Do pay a visit to the Farm Shop before leaving. It offers a wide range of interesting jams, sauces and chutneys that would make great souvenirs.
Travel notes: As Jurlique Farm is a working farm, visitors will need to adhere to a strict dress code: Close-toed, flat shoes, sneakers or boots and full-length trousers or jeans. High heels, sandals and open-toed footwear are not advisable.
Stirling Hotel 52 Mount Barker Road Stirling Adelaide Hills SA 5251 +61 08 8339 2345
Travel notes: When the temperature hits 32 deg Celsius and up, the koalas need to take a break from their interactions with humans. Handling and photography sessions will be on hold until the temperature cools. But fret not — you can still get close enough to watch a snoozing koala in his tree and get a decent photo from afar.
Sammy’s on the Marina Restaurant 1-12 Holdfast Promenade Glenelg SA 5045 +61 8 8376 8211
Travel notes: From Sammy’s, transfer to Adelaide — about a 20-minute drive away — to find accommodation in the city. We recommend putting up at Adina Apartment Hotel Adelaide Treasury. The beautifully restored former treasury building takes pride of place in Adelaide’s vibrant Central Business District, and is a stone’s throw away from the popular Central Market, a bountiful haven for foodies.
The Haus Hahndorf 38A Main Street Hahndorf Adelaide Hills SA 5245 +61 08 8388 7555
Beerenberg Farm 2106 Mount Barker Road Hahndorf Adelaide Hills SA 5245 +61 8 8388 7272
Jurlique Farm 31 Liebelt Road Biggs Flat Adelaide Hills SA 5153 +61 08 8393 0518
Larry the Lobster 17 Princes Highway Kingston SE SA 5275
Cleland Wildlife Park 365 Mount Lofty Summit Road Crafers Adelaide Hills SA 5152 +61 8 8338 2444
Adina Apartment Hotel Adelaide Treasury 2 Flinders Street Adelaide SA 5000 +61 08 8112 0000
adelaide & hills
Larry the Lobster
Monarto Safari Park
[Time spent here: Approx. 4 hours]
Entry fees for the safari park and animal experiences apply. Open daily, but check the website for opening times, which differ depending on the season you’re visiting.
The Hahndorf Inn Restaurant
Beerenberg Farm
Jurlique Farm
Cleland Wildlife Park
[Time spent here: Approx. 2 hours]
Entry fee for the farm tour applies; tours start at 10am, Mon to Fri.
Glenelg
Sammy’s on the Marina
Entry fees for the wildlife park and animal experiences apply. Open daily, from 9.30am to 5pm (except on Christmas Day).
[Time spent here: Approx. 1.5 hours]
Murraylands
[Time spent here: Approx. 30 minutes]
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GO TO DAY 5 & 6
For our final dinner of the trip, we were raring for a quintessentially Aussie dining experience comprising 4S’: Sun(set), sand, sea and seafood. By the time we arrived at the coastal suburb of Henley Beach, we were just in time to catch the sun sinking beneath the horizon, casting a mellow, ochre glow across the skyline. Against this glorious backdrop, we reminisced about some of the golden moments of our incredible road trip, so full of unexpected adventures and remarkable sights. And when the last glimmer of sun had all but vanished, we made our way to SeaSalt, a cheery, retro-looking restaurant with yellow striped umbrellas and fairy lights that made us think of a beach shack. We ordered the Tasting Menu, featuring a selection of the restaurant’s house favourites, so that we could try the best of everything. Dishing up fresh, sustainable seafood with creative Asian twists, the menu’s highlights include scallops baked with nori butter, anchovy toast buttered with salted egg yolk, Southern Bluefin tuna sashimi with ponzu, and even Singapore-style chilli fish wings, which tasted like a delicious cross between rendang and sambal (local spice pastes). With slightly heavy hearts at the thought of leaving tomorrow, we lifted our wine glasses in a toast to the eye-opening diversity of sights, sounds and experiences that make up Australia’s best-kept secret. Here’s to you, South Australia, for giving us such a rewarding opportunity to see you from a whole new point of view!
With stomachs filled to the brim and contented smiles on our faces, we decided it was a good time to check out the city sights — by hitching a ride with the friendly folks of EcoCaddy. Offering a greener way to explore Adelaide, EcoCaddy takes visitors on city tours via pedicabs, with cheerful and knowledgeable locals serving as riders and hosts. Today, we opted for the street art experience. Weaving through traffic and zipping along narrow lanes and footpaths, we marvelled at the magnificent murals adorning Adelaide’s building walls and learnt about the fascinating history of its burgeoning street art scene. As early as six years ago, graffiti and street art were still frowned upon, and were often painted over by local authorities. But with the state’s recognition of its artistic and cultural significance, Adelaide’s streets have started coming to life over the years, with talented local and international artists leaving splashes of colour all over the city for visitors to admire.
With the exception of MasterChef Australia fans, who may recall that Season 10 (2018) showcased some of South Australia’s best produce and culinary delights, not many people know that the region is a foodie’s dream come true. So, where better to begin our day than at the city’s gourmet hub, Adelaide Central Market? What first began as a makeshift farmer’s market in 1869 soon became an institution — and a paradise — for those who love artisanal produce and relish sampling a mouthwatering array of everything from wine, cheese and freshly baked goods to seafood, meat and bush tucker (food that’s native to Australia). Home to over 70 stalls, the colourful, bustling market is where local food expert Mark Gleeson of Food Tours Australia took us on an interactive tour and showed us a breakfast with a difference. Kicking things off on an adventurous note, Gleeson had us try bush tucker like green ants (surprisingly citrusy and savoury) and karkalla (a type of native greens that taste like the ocean) from Something Wild, a stall which specialises in Australian native produce. We also got to savour locally made cheese from The Smelly Cheese Shop, as well as our personal favourite: spooning peanut butter straight from a peanut butter fountain (mmm… bliss!) at Field to Fork, a vegan and gluten-free cafe. As a grand finale, we slurped fresh oysters at Samtass Seafood and even kissed a fish for good measure, taking our interactive tour to new heights.
Wanting to make the most of our last day in South Australia, we ate a hurried breakfast of takeaways from the day before and bade goodbye to Port Noarlunga. Leaving behind hilly farm lands, we were treated to occasional peeks of ruggedly beautiful coastline on the 45-minute journey to Softfoot Alpacas, a private farm owned and run by the Retallick family. Softfoot was first established to provide a sanctuary for rescued and endangered native wildlife, but later gained a new purpose: to raise healthy pure-bred alpacas and contribute to the sustainability of the planet. With their soft feet (hence, the farm’s name), alpacas leave minimal impact on the environment — unlike other farm animals like cattle or sheep. The Retallick family also painstakingly planted hundreds of trees on their estate, and even developed wetlands where aquatic wildlife now flourish. Clancy Retallick, the farm’s second-generation owner, took us on a 4x4 excursion around the sprawling sanctuary. Our first stop was to deliver a long-awaited breakfast to a hungry orphaned joey. And we have to say: Getting to bottle-feed it was the most aww-inspiring moment of our trip. But getting nuzzled by the farm’s free-roaming, curious alpacas comes a close second, particularly after sharing a bonding moment with an especially affectionate alpaca named Maree.
Hindmarsh Valley
Continuing the day’s divine vino therapy, we journeyed on to Down The Rabbit Hole, which is arguably the most picture-perfect winery we’d ever visited. As we rounded a curve in the driveway, the first thing that caught our eye was a powder-blue vintage double-decker bus that’s the stuff of #vanlife Instagram posts. Adding to the enchanted wonderland feel of the place is a lush lawn with a fire pit for toasting marshmallows and a hanging wicker chair swinging lazily in the breeze. Just across the lawn is a cosy dining hut decked out in earthy tones that serves healthy, hearty food for the soul. But back to the dreamy #vanlife bus, christened Lennon — the lower deck has been transformed into a beautiful tasting room with comfy nooks, while the upper deck consists of a long table with benches to host larger groups. And if you visit during the summer months, it becomes an open rooftop bar. Here, we enjoyed a few of the winery’s top wines like its Chardonnay, Rosé and Tempranillo, and got to hear the stories that went into their making. Retiring into the hut, we happily tucked into the appetising Feed Me Happy grazing platter, full of wholesome goodness like organic cheese and homemade crackers, vegetable dips, Italian meatballs cooked in Nonna’s sauce and roasted organic vegetables. The meal was delightfully tasty — pairing well with the winery’s light, easy-to-drink wine — and ranks as one of our favourites on the trip.
Our EcoCaddy host might have done all the work, but we had somehow worked up an appetite nonetheless. So, next up: Lunch at C.R.E.A.M. cafe, a 20-minute drive away, in the coastal suburb of Brighton. A popular eatery among locals, C.R.E.A.M. oozes a laid-back vibe and is unabashed about its love of old-school hip-hop music (its owner, Josh, is a big Wu-Tang Clan fan and the cafe got its eponymous moniker from the band’s song). Fun fact aside, the cafe’s delectable and generously portioned food is really what gets our vote. From there, we embarked on the final leg of our road trip to the Fleurieu (pronounced “flew-ree-oh”) Peninsula, situated on the southern tip of South Australia. Undulating hills whipped by our car window and 40 minutes later, we came upon the rolling vineyards of the Fleurieu’s prime wine region McLaren Vale, where the weird and wonderful d’Arenberg Cube sits proudly. A futuristic structure reminiscent of a partially completed Rubik’s Cube, the d’Arenberg Cube is one of the most iconic landmarks in South Australia and a must-visit for any traveller. Dreamed up by visionary fourth-generation winemaker Chester Osborn (often referred to as the Willy Wonka of wine), the Cube is a museum, exhibition space, wine tasting room and restaurant rolled into one. From speaking to Osborn, it was clear that the Cube is an extraordinary labour of love, built to display all the things that are important to him: heritage (the d’Arenberg label was founded by his great-grandfather), art (many of the pieces have personal meaning for him), food (the restaurant is the first in Australia to explore 3D printed food) and, of course, wine. Well-known for its quirky names, the d’Arenberg label produces over 60 unique varieties of wine and is most famous for its flagship red, The Dead Arm Shiraz, first released in 1993.
McLaren Vale
Travel notes: From Adina Apartment Hotel Adelaide Treasury, it is a breezy 10-minute stroll to Adelaide Central Market. If you plan to be on the road early the next day, stock up on breakfast provisions here. We recommend Providore — which is, incidentally, owned by Gleeson — for its buttery croissants and sugar donuts.
Adelaide Central Market Gouger Street 44-60 Adelaide SA 5000
Travel notes: Tours generally start on time, so do try and arrive at the meeting point at least five minutes prior to departure. If you require a specific pick-up and drop-off point, EcoCaddy will be happy to make arrangements, but additional costs apply.
EcoCaddy 455 Pulteney Street Adelaide SA 5000 +61 08 7625 2888
Travel notes: Here’s where things get fun for wine lovers: A hands-on experience called The Blending Bench lets you play winemaker and create a personalised blend of wine. Guided by Osborn, we sampled different Shiraz blends, and mixed and matched until we found our favourite. After that, we got to bottle and label our own wine, and take it home as a special souvenir.
C.R.E.A.M. 4/49 Jetty Rd Brighton SA 5048 +61 8 8298 3149
d’Arenberg Cube 58 Osborn Road McLaren Vale Fleurieu Peninsula SA 5171 +61 08 8329 4888
Travel notes: When you’re ready to call it a night, make for Port Noarlunga, about a 15-minute drive from the winery, and check into the aptly named seaside motel Coast Motel & Apartments. With extremely roomy and comfortable suites, the motel is perched right on the beachfront and promises a first-rate view of the ocean from the moment you open the door.
Travel notes: Nat Geo Wild lesson time: Alpacas are gentle creatures, but they do spit when they’re frightened or distressed. However, they won’t bite and rarely spit at people, unless you spook them. One thing you can do to endear yourself to them is to avoid petting them (they don’t really like it) and, instead, give them a good scratch on the neck.
Oceanic Victor 1 Granite Island Victor Harbor Fleurieu Peninsula SA 5211 +61 08 8552 7137
Travel notes: The best time to swim with the tuna is during their regular feeding time between 11am to 3pm. That’s when they’re most active and will readily come up to take fish from your hands. Towards the later part of the day, they tend to grow lethargic and you may not see much action on their part. If you’re visiting in winter and don’t fancy getting into the water, there is also the option of feeding the tuna from a platform.
SeaSalt 269 Seaview Road Henley Beach SA 5022 +61 8 8465 5005
Travel notes: To make your airport transit easier, stay at Atura Adelaide Airport the night before your flight home. The hotel’s chic, industrial design belies cushy, welcoming rooms and, most importantly, it is located just beside the airport.
Down The Rabbit Hole 233 Binney Road McLaren Vale Fleurieu Peninsula SA 5171 +61 0477 299 662
Coast Motel & Apartments 153-157 Esplanade Port Noarlunga South SA 5167 +61 8 8386 3311
Softfoot Alpaca Farm 594 Sawpit Road Hindmarsh Valley SA 5211 +61 498 336 488
Food Tours Australia Adelaide Central Market 44 Grote Street Adelaide SA 5000 +61 402 165 800
The Island Cafe 1 Granite Way Victor Harbor Fleurieu Peninsula SA 5211 +61 448 885 450
Atura Adelaide Airport 1 Atura Circuit Adelaide Airport SA 5950 +61 08 7099 3300
FLEURIEU PENINSULA
Adelaide Central Market
d’Arenberg Cube
Down The Rabbit Hole
Softfoot Alpaca Farm
Henley Beach
[Time spent here: Approx. 3 hours]
Victor Harbor
EcoCaddy street art tour
[Time spent here: Approx. 2 to 3 hours]
Oceanic Victor
Our alpaca experience concluded, we moved on to another kind of close encounter — with marine life, this time — at Victor Harbor, a seaside town half an hour away. Upon arrival, we took a 15-minute walk across the causeway to The Island Cafe to rest and refuel before our underwater adventure. Post-lunch, we met up with marine biologist Chris Presser and his team, who were waiting to take us out to Victor Harbor for its signature Aquarium Swim experience. The in-sea aquarium houses a school of 40 Southern Bluefin Tuna, also known as “Ferraris of the Ocean” — which we’ll soon find out why. After suiting up in wetsuits with masks and gloves, we dived into the aquarium, not knowing what to expect. Above, Presser tossed pilchards (or sardines) into the aquarium. In a split second, HUGE tuna whizzed by us in a frenzy, zeroing in on their meal with uncanny accuracy and at an impossible speed. We later learnt that these agile predators can reach speeds of up to 70kmh when hunting. The sensation of having a tuna race towards you and leap into the air when homing in on its fish was such an exhilarating rush. Needing a breather from the excitement of swimming with tuna, we enjoyed a quiet moment cuddling friendly Port Jackson sharks in a second aquarium. Holding them under their bellies and stroking them gently, it’s easy to see why they’re called the Labradors of the sea.
BACK TO DAY 3 & 4
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South Australia Map Guide
COONAWARRA
TANTANOOLA
ROBE
KINGSTON S.E
MONARTO
ADELAIDE
HAHNDORF
MCLAREN VALE
100
0
km
VICTOR HARBOR
TANTANOOLA CAVES
MAYURA STATION
LONG BEACH
ROBE TOWN BREWERY
THE OBELISK
LARRY THE LOBSTER
MONARTO SAFARI PARK
HAHNDORF INN
BEERENBERG FARM
CLELAND WILDLIFE PARK
GLENELG BEACH
ADELAIDE CENTRAL MARKETS
ECO CADDY
D’ARENBERG CUBE
DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE WINES
OCEANIC VICTOR
HENLEY BEACH
Download Map to help you plan your visit ahead of time.
LIMESTONE COAST
ADELAIDE & HILLS
MENINGIE
BELLWETHER WINES
SOFTFOOT ALPACA FARM
millicent
MOUNT GAMBIER
BLUE LAKE
KANGAROO ISLAND
MELBOURNE
COONAWARRA BUBBLE TENTS
CRAFERS
BIGGS FLAT
HINDMARSH VALLEY
JURLIQUE FARM
About SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Beyond its world-class vineyards, stunning coastlines and wildlife encounters, South Australia is also a culinary haven and scenic wonder. Its state capital Adelaide boasts a dynamic street art culture, and other notable regions bursting with adventure such as Limestone Coast and Fleurieu Peninsula are just a road trip away. Here in South Australia, we want to show the world the best our State has to offer. Whether you are a repeat visitor who is just as enamoured by our slice of paradise, or a first-time visitor who has yet to discover Australia’s best-kept secret, we warmly welcome you and hope you will experience a trip of a lifetime. So what are you waiting for?
Plan your South Australian road trip now!
Flights
Experiences DiRect
Browse the experiences suggested for this road trip on SouthAustralia.com and follow the prompts to book your preferred experiences direct with operators.
Singapore Airlines flies daily to Adelaide. Fly in comfort and enjoy award-winning service as you embark on your journey to South Australia.
Need some help putting together your itinerary? Check out our preferred retail partner offers, chose from a ready-made packages or work with their friendly team to create a bespoke itinerary just for you.
HOLIDAY PACKAGES
Book self-drive holidays including flights, hotels, rental cars and customised tours with our key travel partners to enjoy the best deals.
Travel advisory
• SA Bushfire Travel Information
MorE Information
• How you can help with the bushires in SA
• Bushfire Travel FAQs
DRIVING
SPEED LIMITS
FREE WI-FI
SAFETY TIPS
BUSHFIRE SAFETY
BLOOD ALCOHOL LIMIT
Driving
• A current licence issued in another country that is written in English • A current licence with an English translation if necessary or an international driver’s licence International driver’s licence
Mandatory measures include these:
• Ensure you carry your licence documents at all times when driving, and produce these along with your passport to police on request. • You must not be disqualified from driving in any country. • If your overseas licence expires while you are in Australia, you must get an Australian licence or International Driving Permit (IDP). • Your IDP must be issued by the same country that issued your driver's licence. The permit verifies in several languages that you have a valid driver's licence.
If you are visiting from overseas, make sure you are driving legally and safely. In South Australia, you can drive the same type of vehicle as your current licence allows, but you must drive according to any conditions on your overseas licence. You will need either one of these:
• The legal blood alcohol concentration (BAC) limit in Australia for a fully-licenced driver is under 0.05. • South Australian Police operate mobile drug and breath testing units year-round. It is an offence to drive with a BAC over 0.05.
• Drive on the left in Australia. • A seat belt must be worn at all times by both the driver and passengers within any vehicle • You are not permitted to use a handheld mobile phone when driving. This includes making or receiving calls, texting, playing games or browsing the web. • There are many dirt, gravel and unsealed roads in the outback and other regions. Extra precaution should be taken when driving in these conditions and the appropriate insurance should be purchased. • Check with your car hire company to make sure you can take your hire car on dirt roads. • You should avoid driving between dusk and dawn, and in poor weather when outside city areas. Kangaroos, emus and koalas are known to wander into traffic unexpectedly, particularly in low light.
• 100 km/h is the maximum speed limit on roads outside a built-up area where no other speed limit is signposted. • 50 km/h is the maximum speed limit on roads within a built-up area unless a different speed limit is signposted.
In South Australia, there are two default speed limits:
These default speed limits are applied in South Australia and across Australia. Any road with a speed limit different to the default limit is signposted accordingly.
Australia can be subject to natural bushfires, especially within the summer months of December to February in regional areas. Please use the links provided on this webpage to answer any FAQs about bushfire safety when travelling in South Australia.
FREE WIFI
Connect to South Australia’s free Wi-Fi network and share your travels using #SeeSouthAustralia. There are a total of 60 Wi-Fi hotspots across South Australia from the Adelaide Hills to the Barossa and Kangaroo Island.
SATC’s COVID19 travel information
Coronavirus travel
#WelcomeBack. We've missed you! Thankfully we have successfully flattened the COVID-19 curve within South Australia. This means we can stop streaming and start star-gazing, we can swap couches for picnic rugs, surfing the internet for some epic breaks, and we'll be upgrading our online scrolling for outdoor strolling.
• https://southaustralia.com/alerts/covid-19/
CORONAVIRUS TRAVEL
Alpaca Pick-up Game
After months of staying in, it's time to heed the call of the open roads. Make your first big trip of 2020 one to remember with an epic road trip to South Australia — home of world-famous vineyards, scenic natural wonders and gourmet delights. Gear up for your road trip by testing your driving skills in the game Alpaca Pick-up and stand to win two complimentary economy class air-tickets to Adelaide on Singapore Airlines. You can play the game as many times as you like, but only one entry per person will be submitted for the contest. Contest will end at midnight Sunday 05 July 2020.
The Winner will be decided by random draw held between [09 July 2020 and 30 July 2020], with ONE (1) Prize winner in total drawn by South Australia Tourism Commission. The Winner will be contacted by South Australian Tourism Commission via email using the contact address(es) submitted on the Winner's entry form. Where the Winner cannot be contacted by email after three attempts South Australian Tourism Commission will select another winner. Terms and conditions apply.
Play Now!
Terms and conditions apply.
South Australia AlPaca Challenge
After months of staying in, it's time to heed the call of the open roads. Make your first big trip of 2020 one to remember with an epic road trip to South Australia — home of world-famous vineyards, scenic natural wonders and gourmet delights. Gear up for your road trip by testing your driving skills in the South Australia Alpaca Challenge game and stand to win two complimentary economy class air- tickets to Adelaide on Singapore Airlines. You can play as many times as you like. However, you can only click submit once to join the contest. Upon submission, enter your details in the form and tell us in no more than 100 words why you should win those air tickets.
South Australia ALPaca Challenge
Australia's borders have to remain closed for now, but we're counting down the days to welcome you again. And if you're just as excited to visit, start planning for your next holiday now! After months of staying in, it's time to heed the call of the open roads in South Australia — home of world-famous vineyards, scenic natural wonders and gourmet delights. Gear up for your road trip by testing your driving skills in the South Australia Alpaca Challenge game and stand to win two complimentary economy class air- tickets to Adelaide on Singapore Airlines. You can play as many times as you like. However, you can only click submit once to join the contest. Upon submission, enter your details in the form and tell us in no more than 100 words why you should win those air tickets. Contest will end on 16th July 2020. Winner will be announced on 14th Aug 2020. Sign up here for exclusive travel deals to South Australia and make that epic adventure happen!
Australia's borders have to remain closed for now, but we're counting down the days to welcome you again. And if you're just as excited to visit, start planning for your next holiday now! After months of staying in, it's time to heed the call of the open roads in South Australia — home of world-famous vineyards, scenic natural wonders and gourmet delights. Gear up for your road trip by testing your "driving skills" in the South Australia Alpaca Challenge game and stand to win two complimentary economy class air tickets to Adelaide on Singapore Airlines. You can play as many times as you like. However, you can only click submit once to join the contest. Upon submission, enter your details in the form and tell us in no more than 100 words why you should win those air tickets. Contest will end on July 16, 2020. Winner will be announced on August 14, 2020. Sign up here for exclusive travel deals to South Australia and make that epic adventure happen!
