Saudi_Food_Longform

INSIDE THE CULTURE CAPITAL

Focus on: fine dining

Not surprisingly for a culture which places extreme importance on food and eating out – recent research has shown that Saudi’s F&B industry is the biggest in the Middle East, valued at $45 billion – a taste for quality has always been in its DNA. As a result, it has attracted a veritable smorgasbord of high-end restaurateurs from around the world to set out their culinary stalls here. Take Brit Jason Atherton, whose pedigree includes working with Gordon Ramsay at the renowned Maze, and who has deservedly amassed a clutch of Michelin stars of his own (including those for his London eateries Pollen Street Social and Social Eating House). Now he’s opening Maraya Social, in the middle of AlUla, which mixes British and Mediterranean flavours – think Black Angus beef tenderloin, AlUla citrus-cured Norwegian salmon, and chocolate fondant. As Atherton explains, he won’t be trying to replicate the local cuisine, preferring to leave that to the experts: "You’re not coming here to get mezze with local bread or spiced rice; they’ve been cooking it for thousands of years here, I don’t think I’m going to improve on that." Then they don’t come bolder or brighter than businessman Flavio Briatore, who recently brought his Billionaire brand to Riyadh. Described as ‘luxury dining and nightlife’, it’s the place to come for chef-curated, Italian-Asian dishes, from slow-cooked ossobucco with risotto alla Milanese, to Korean-style baby chicken, while regular evening entertainment adds a touch of drama to the proceedings. Greek food more your style? Hellenika opened in Al Khobar earlier this year to great acclaim, from the founders of award-winning Japanese restaurant Nozomi. Serving food inspired by the Greek Islands, you’ll be transported to Mykonos or Santorini by dishes such as kleftiko, fresh spiny lobster, chicken souvla, and more. Also new to Al Khobar are Belgravian Brasserie, an homage to the traditional Art Deco brasseries of France, where you’ll find everything from French onion soup to moules frites and chocolate souffle on the menu; and Cafe Chic at the Sofitel Al Khobar the Corniche, which blends French gastronomy with Asian flavours.

Best of the fests

As a way of tasting a multitude of different flavours, and experiencing new things, a food festival is a great educator. Last December, the Culinary Arts Commission launched the inaugural Saudi Feast Food festival in Jeddah, which will run annually. Celebrating the nation’s culinary heritage, this features instructive shows, events combining music and food, discussions with culinary experts, a produce market, and restaurant and food stalls. Another addition to the foodie calendar was the 2019 launch of Riyadh's Taste of the World, a six-day gastronomic celebration which brings together the world’s top chefs and talents, Saudi’s own emerging and exciting culinary talent, and a host of delicious tastings, live demos, and private dining experiences. Previous guests have included French Michelin-starred chef Pascal Aussignac from London’s Club Gascon, Aussie talent Shane Osborn from Hong Kong’s Arcane, and UK icon Simon Rogan, of L’Enclume. Finally, celebrating something more traditional, is the Buraidah Date Festival, an annual event that runs each summer in Buraidah (known as the ‘City of dates’ Buraidah has recognition within UNESCO’s Network of Creative Cities, in the field of gastronomy, thanks to its high agricultural value). The month-long festival sees over 200,000 tons of dates harvested from more than eight million palm trees that grow in the region of Qassim.

PARTNER CONTENT

If you thought you knew Middle Eastern food, think again. Saudi’s incredible, and often-surprising, food scene spans everything from traditional markets and street stalls, to fine dining and festivals. Come to be inspired, come to enjoy, and, most of all, come hungry, because this is your next hot foodie destination....

For delicious Greek eats, head to Hellenika in Al Khobar

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At Billionaire in Riyadh you can enjoy chef-curated luxury dining and evening entertainment

French food fans should book a table at the Belgravian Brasserie

Taste of the World

RIYADH

JEDDAH

Saudi Feast Food festival

A Matter of Taste

Q&A with Amna Al-yamani of the all-female Amna Bakery, Jeddah

What, or who, got you interested in cooking and baking?

My grandfather; he was passionate about cooking and transferred that love to me at a young age. I started baking aged seven and chose it over cooking because my mother thought I was too young to use knives, pots, and pans at the time.

A teacher taught me that if we pursued a career in something we love, we’ll never feel like we’re working a day in our lives. From then I knew I wanted to open a bakery someday. I was fortunate to be able to focus my entire education and career on fulfilling that dream: I studied Hospitality Management at Glion in Switzerland, went to pastry school at Cordon Bleu in Paris, and graduated with a degree in business management (MBA) from IESE Business School in Barcelona. Career-wise, I interned at a couple of restaurants in Paris for a year to gain operational skills. My full-time experience spanned five years at ALBAIK in Saudi, one of the leading quick-service chains in the market – they taught me how to scale globally in the food space while maintaining consistency.

How did you come to set up your own bakery?

I actually founded it in Feb 2020 after completing my MBA, the month before Covid-19 hit. We started off as a cloud kitchen concept on a commission-based model, then opened our first store at the end of the year. The idea of my bakery being run by women came from my wanting to make a positive impact in the food industry in Saudi. By making it female-run, I’m developing a comfortable work environment where my team can learn at their own pace and grow with the business over time.

When did Amna Bakery come into being, and why the focus on an all-female team?

Being an entrepreneur is a challenge for anyone globally, regardless of gender. It requires tremendous mental strength, patience, clarity in vision, and emotional intelligence. If one has these skills, though, then starting up as a national (male or female) in Saudi couldn’t be easier; the setup is done on a government portal online and is literally complete within 3-5 minutes. In the past, one would typically have to go to multiple offices to register all requirements: commercial registration, tax certification, trademark registration, activity license etc.

How easy is it to become a female food entrepreneur in Saudi?

Amna Bakery, 6822 Hadiqat Rami, 3136, As Salamah District, Jeddah 23436, Saudi

Spotlight on: Local talent

More female foodies you need to know about

Helmy Alsagaff

Douha Abdullah Al Otaishan

Saudi’s first female chef to head a hotel restaurant – Al-Majiles, at the former Golden Tulip Andalusia Hotel in Riyadh – went on to cook for 500 delegates at the World Economic Forum in Davos, and took part in least year’s delayed World Expo 2020 in Dubai. She now hosts a popular cookery show, Matbakh Douha, and owns a restaurant in Riyadh.

Al-Maha Al-Dossery

Known as the Bedouin Vegan on social media, she combines veganism with her Saudi identity and has worked at the Ritz Carlton. After finishing her culinary training at Le Cordon Bleu in London, a chance conversation with her sister set her on the path to veganism. She turned to Snapchat and Twitter to generate interest, and gives her followers all the information they need to make their own choices.

Khulood Olaqui

Completely self-taught in the skills of filleting and deboning fish, and making maki rolls and sashimi, Olaqui brushed up her knowledge at the Tokyo Sushi Academy in Singapore before opening Riyadh’s first sushi restaurant, Oishii Sushi. Its success has grown and grown, thanks to the ambition and passion of Saudi’s first female sushi expert.

Basma El-Khereiji

Starting with her own catering company, El-Khereiji has gone on to found a restaurant, the Social Kitchen, in Jeddah, as well as an online lifestyle store and is now CEO of the Social Group, which develops different food and beverage concepts. She was also selected by the Saudi Ministry of Culture to head the Saudi Culinary Initiative, a programme which aims to introduce local Saudi cuisine to the world.

A plethora of female chefs are making waves on the Saudi food scene – click on the images below for four more to watch:

Across the six-day event you can enjoy a wealth of delicious tastings, live demos and private dining experiences

At the Buraidah Date Festival you can sample delicious date-based dishes from thousands of food stalls

Launched in 2019, Riyadh’s Taste of the World festival brings together top chefs and emerging culinary talent from Saudi and beyond

Previous guests have included French Michelin-starred chef Pascal Aussignac, Aussie talent Shane Osborn, and UK icon Simon Rogan

Over 200,000 tons of dates harvested from more than 8 million palm trees in Qassim are used during the month-long festival

In every healthy, evolving food scene, there will be people who are trying to do something different: disrupting the status quo. Saudi is no exception, so here we meet the innovators, tearing up the recipe rulebook and putting a fresh spin on everything foodie. For Mayada Badr, culinary expert and chief executive of the Saudi Culinary Arts Commission, that means a Saudi food scene brimming with pop-up restaurants and more adventurous chefs. Cordon Bleu-trained Badr now oversees the development of the country’s culinary sector and her role involves reviewing the laws and regulations governing it. Pop-ups were previously not allowed to open to the public, but Badr wants to simplify regulatory processes to encourage other entrepreneurs. ‘This is just one concept,’ she says. ‘I want 100 more.’

Meet the innovators

Fresh new food concepts are thriving across Saudi. Everyone loves their grandmother’s cooking, but Meshari Almogbel is serving up his own granny’s recipes with a twist, for a more modern take on Saudi cuisine. At his fast-food outlet, Grandma’s, in Riyadh, you’ll find the popular rice dish, kabsa, made with brisket instead of lamb, for example. Controversial? Maybe, but the proof of the pudding is in the eating. Vegan food is another growth area. Last year, Saudi’s Prince Khaled bin Alwaleed and American celebrity chef Matthew Kenney teamed up to launch Folia – multi-course, plant-based menus for Riyadh Season, the citywide celebrations held from October until March. Their joint passion for more sustainable eating, has led them to bring Folia to the Four Seasons in Doha, Qatar, in time for the forthcoming World Cup – think green papaya salad, and truffle pizza with kale. Prince Khaled is also CEO of KBW Ventures, a venture capital company that has invested in a range of vegan businesses, including US alt-meat brand Rebellyous Foods, the Furahaa Group (which aims to be the first plant-based fast food chain in France) and Singapore’s Turtle Tree Labs, which creates cell-based meat and dairy. Finally, the nature and structure of restaurants is changing. Sabine El Najjar is managing director of Kitopi (kitopi.com) in Saudi, the world’s leading managed cloud kitchen platform. A tech powered, multi-brand restaurant, Kitopi operates as an 'omnichannel' offering everything from dine-in restaurants, cloud kitchens and food halls. Since taking over in January 2021, El Najjar has been steadily driving growth and expansion, and is now leading the charge for the company to invest in bricks-and-mortar restaurants too. ‘The post-Covid future,’ she says, ‘is a hybrid of online, on-demand delivery and in-person dining.’

Culinary innovator Sabine El Najjar is the managing director of leading tech-powered, multi-brand restaurant, Kitopi in the Saudi market

Meshari Almogbel serves up his granny’s favourite dishes in his Riyadh restaurant, Grandma’s

The best street eats

Eating on the go is part of the pleasure of exploring somewhere new. There are times when you don’t want to stop and commit to a long lunch, or lengthy dinner, but pick up and refuel with something which the locals have enjoyed for decades, if not centuries. Start in a historic area, like Al Balad, in Jeddah, and keep an eye out for dishes like a classic shawarma, thinly sliced meat stuffed in khubz (Arabic bread) with pickles, fries and tahini sauce; tamiya, essentially falafel, a vegetarian fritter made with fava beans or chickpeas; baleela, boiled chickpeas mixed with garlic and spices; and luquaimat, doughnut-like deep-fried dumplings with a crunchy exterior and soft, fluffy middle. Browsing a buzzy, bustling food market is another source of pleasure; Jeddah’s Central Fish Market sells the freshest catches daily, reflecting the city’s status as the Middle East’s second largest trading seaport. Here you’ll find everything from red grouper to seabass, tuna and lobster. In Riyadh, the vast Al Aziziyah Fruit and Vegetable Market draws crowds for its quantities of everything from courgettes to pumpkins, tomatoes to aubergines, sold wholesale, and watching other people buy and sell is an experience in itself. Finally, a day out wouldn’t be complete without sampling Saudi’s immersive cafe culture; traditional coffee here is known as Qahwa, made with green coffee beans and, often, cardamom, cinnamon or cloves. To counteract the bitterness, it’s served with something sweet, such as dates.

Don’t forget to explore Saudi’s lively cafe culture; traditional coffee here is known as Qahwa, made with green coffee beans and spices

Immerse yourself in the bustling market atmosphere of Jeddah’s daily Central Fish Market where you’ll find the freshest catches

For delicious street eats, head to Jeddah’s Al Balad, in where you can tuck into luquaimat, doughnut-like deep-fried dumplings

While there, look out for dishes like a classic shawarma, thinly sliced meat stuffed in khubz (Arabic bread) with pickles, fries and tahini sauce

Al Aziziyah Fruit and Vegetable Market

Central Fish Market

Al Balad

RIYADH

JEDDAH

Grill fans should head to Al Jadidah’s SKLT for delicious dishes from jumbo prawns to Wagyu beef

Off the beaten track

If you step beyond the better known destinations in Saudi, such as Riyadh and Jeddah, you’ll come across exciting surprises. The growing development of the sprawling, nature-focused, heritage city of AlUla is resulting in a host of new high-end hotels, from Aman and Banyan Tree, to a resort carved out of rock by starchitect Jean Nouvel, called Sharaan. With them come new dining opportunities, such as SKLT, which specialises in grill-based cooking, from jumbo prawns to dry-aged Wagyu beef; Cannes-born Le Maschou, bringing French-influenced cuisine such as rock lobster Provencal or roasted baby chicken; and Japanese fine-dining restaurant, Myazu. Around the recently established KAEC (King Abdulla Economic City), eat by the water at Bhar, which specialises in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine, or at FireGrill, where you’ll find Mexican food from burritos to tacos. Alternatively, for a more high end experience, try the stylish restaurant at the Royal Green’s Golf and Country Club, which serves everything from burgers and beetroot ravioli, to grilled chermoula lamb rack.

For dining experiences with a difference try these remote retreats

For the ultimate in remote dining, head to Banyan Tree, a resort surrounded by the magical deserts of AlUla

In AlUla’s Old Town, Cannes-born eaterie Le Maschou, serves French cuisine amid dreamy interiors

Poolside at AlUla’s stunning, palm-strewn Shaden Resort, you can sample Japanese fine-dining at Myazu

Opening in 2023, the Sharaan resort – carved into a stone outcrop by architect Jean Nouvel – promises eateries with incredible views

Tradition with a twist

The best place to start your Saudi foodventure? With authentic, flavoursome, traditional cuisine. You can’t go wrong with Al Nakheel in Jeddah, a friendly restaurant which serves Hijazi – Western Saudi – and broader Middle Eastern dishes such as shish tawook (marinated chicken kebab), mantou (spiced meat dumplings) and mana’eesh (flatbread topped with herbs and spices). Najd Village in Riyadh boasts beautifully-crafted booths set up so you can eat sitting on the floor, with signature items including Saudi's national dish, al kabsa (rice, chicken and vegetables) matazeez (a stew of meat, dough dumplings and vegetables) and muqalqal (diced lamb cooked with tomato, onion and green pepper). While Al-Romansiah, in Dammam, is a perennially popular purveyor of Saudi food, serving madfoon (a charcoal-cooked meat and rice dish), and al maqloba, where lamb, vegetables, and rice are layered and cooked, then flipped over to reveal the colourful, flavour-packed eats.

At Najd Village must-eats include matazeez (a dumpling stew) and muqalqal (diced lamb with vegetables)

Najd Village & Lusin

Al-Romansiah

Al Nakheel

RIYADH

JEDDAH

Expect riotous, multi-sensory displays at this quirky exhibition in the Saudi capital - including a marshmallow-filled pool, giant pink teddy and a walk-in glitter confetti dome. You’re guaranteed to leave feeling uplifted with a phone full of Instagrammable snapshots.

Museum of Happiness, Riyadh

This contemporary construction boasts a groundbreaking research laboratory, a huge collection of Arabic art and literature, as well as a performing arts theatre, cinema and children’s museum.

King Abdulaziz Centre for World Culture (Ithra), Dhahran

David South / Alamy Stock Photo

Dive deep into Jeddah’s extraordinary past at this enormous private collection, housed inside a traditional Hijazi building. Learn about the 2,500 year-old history of the city as well as the origins of Islam.

Tayebat Museum, Jeddah

Fascinated by space? This world-class science museum has an enormous observatory, primed for stargazing in the clear Arabian skies, as well as interactive displays, detailing man’s exploration of the universe. Top it off with a screening of the latest space documentary on the 24m-high screen at the IMAX.

Scitech Technology Center, Khobar

Who said art needs to be created on canvas? Opening in 2022, Diriyah promises to be Saudi Arabia’s first digital arts centre and the first educational centre of its kind in the world. Join a workshop on creative computing, visit the state-of-the-art library or browse the kaleidoscopic art shop.

Diriyah Art Futures, Riyadh

Take a culture trip around Saudi

From the surreally bright lilac jacarandas of Abha to the snow-white mountains of Tabuk and the dappled sea green of Lake Kharrarah, Saudi's diverse terrain comes in many hues. Here are just some must-view sites – don't forget to pack your camera

ALAMY

FATAYER

A traditional pie, this is typically stuffed with meat, cheese, or spinach. A light dough is made first, rolled out, then filled and baked until golden. Another simple, popular street food which you’ll find throughout Saudi.

Alamy

Maamoul

Believed to have originated in ancient Egypt, these cookies are often eaten to celebrate the end of a fast at Ramadan or Lent. Primarily made with the finest Saudi dates, ground into a paste, often flavoured with cinnamon or cardamom, they are shaped before baking with a mould called a tabbeh.

Ful wa Tameez

A popular morning snack of mashed fava bean dip made with olive oil, lemon juice and coriander, the ful is eaten with thick bread (the tameez). Perfect for eating on the go, it's nicknamed (slightly meanly) ‘poor man’s breakfast’ as it’s so cheap – typically a couple of riyals – and can be picked up from street vendors or cafes.

6 traditional dishes you should try in Saudi

From moreish mains to sweet treats, these are the must-eat classic dishes

ALAMY

Kubbat HaiL

Better known in Europe as kibbeh, these are fried, round snacks (kubba means ‘ball’) made with ground meat, spices, and either rice or bulgar wheat. Tasty and comforting, you’ll find them everywhere you go.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Ruz Al Bukhari

This rice dish is typically cooked with spices such as cinnamon, cumin, cardamom, nutmeg and star anise. Served with chicken, lamb or mutton, it’s often topped with nuts, fried onion, or coriander leaves, as well as a green salad and salata hara – a spicy tomato sauce – on the side.

Muttabaq

A popular, everyday snack throughout Saudi, especially in the west, this consists of a thin layer of bread or pancake, stuffed with minced meat, eggs, chopped leeks and green onion, then fried or baked. It’s cut into smaller squares after cooking and served with lemon juice and green chilli.

Billionaire

Riyadh

ALULA

Maraya Social

Hellenika, Nozomi & Belgravian Brasserie

Al Khobar

Buraidah

Buraidah Date Festival

Dammam

SHUTTERSTOCK

ALAMY

PARTNER CONTENT

Span the centuries in Riyadh

Glittering skyscrapers sit alongside centuries-old palaces in Saudi’s capital, making it a great starting point for first-time visitors. Step back in time at the National Museum of Saudi Arabia. Behind the modernist limestone edifice, you’ll dive deep into the nation’s past (don’t miss the ancient rock carvings featuring a human handprint) as well as the origins of Islam. Afterwards, pop into the Al Murabba Palace next door, former home of King Abdul Aziz, founder of modern Saudi. Listen to recordings of the king’s speeches and look out for a Rolls Royce that was gifted by Winston Churchill in 1946. Just five minutes away by taxi, you’ll find the Al Masmak Fort, a classic example of traditional Najdi architecture in the old quarter. Made from clay and mud-bricks, this former prison offers a one-of-a-kind insight into the country’s storied past. Then, make your way to the commercial quarter to marvel at the mind-boggling architecture of the future, notably the 303m-high Kingdom Center. Inside, an elevator will whisk you to the top-floor Sky Bridge, which boasts a dazzling view over the city. Feeling flush? Book a suite at the Four Seasons Hotel just below and soak up the panorama from your own private suite. Top off your tour at the Al Faisaliah Tower, a 44-storey spire designed by Norman Foster’s architecture firm, Foster + Partners. For an unforgettable meal, dine at the Globe restaurant, housed inside the distinctive golden orb suspended near the pinnacle.

Helmy Alsagaff

At Najd Village must-eats include matazeez (a dumpling stew) and muqalqal (diced lamb with vegetables)

Culinary innovator Sabine el Najjar heads up leading tech-powered, multi-brand restaurant, Kitopi

Architecture and Design

Why the landscape of AlUl teaches humility to even the starriest architects and designers

The embrace of time

Artists, craftspeople and explorers of all kinds are again finding inspiration in AlUla – including a female astronaut from the 25th century

The voyagers

ARTS AND CREATIVE INDUSTRIES

The varied topography of Saudi is as surprising as it is spectacular. For those with an adventurous spirit, there is no more enticing destination

Extraordinary adventures in Saudi

The perfect destination for nature and wildlife lovers seeking unique experiences

Find an unexpected dreamland of scenic beauty in Saudi

Our guide on how to catch the best of Saudi’s artistic offerings on your next visit

Discover how Saudi became the cultural powerhouse of the Middle East

Click to explore