Jabal Ikmah
The rocks around this mountain are filled with ancient inscriptions in languages that predated and eventually influenced Arabic, so much so that the area has become known as the ‘open air library’
Sometimes the truth is staring right back at you, even if it takes a bit of time to figure it out.
Words of wit, woe and wisdom have been carved into eternity on the mountain walls of the Jabal Ikmah, five kilometres north of AlUla Old Town, giving remarkable insight into the lives of travellers and traders from the Paleolithic Era right through to the Islamic age. Considered to be the highest concentration of inscriptions in the region, this is also one of the most scenic and atmospheric archaeological sites.
After a short, guided walk, a narrow corridor in the rocks opens to reveal a wide window on human history, with hundreds of letters, symbols and depictions creating an open-air library of material from our ancestors to be read by multiple generations to come.
Dating as far back as 644BC, Aramaic, Dadanitic, Thamudic, Minaic and Nabataean scripts chart the different civilisations passing through AlUla, all attracted by the prospects of trade and an abundance of natural resources.
Translated by scholars, the messages are a mixture of commercial transactions, local laws, religious practices and even pledges of devotion to deities. Sketches of camels and muscular bulls sit alongside pictures of humans hunting or musical instruments such as harps.
Perch on a rock for a few moments and it’s easy to understand why this special place has historically drawn visitors. Caravans seeking rest and shelter would stop in the shady spot where a waterfall once flowed, taking an opportunity to refuel camels and prepare for long journeys across the desert. Jokingly described by rawi (guides) as an ancient form of Twitter, Jabal Ikmah was a place where conversations were started, thoughts were shared and ideas exchanged.
Today, the scene is similarly welcoming. During winter months, the area still fills with wildflowers and the zingy citrus scent of lemons. In summer, the smell of sweet mango carries through the air.
Simply following a path trodden by millions is a powerful experience, but the opportunity to delve deeper into thoughts and feelings breathes life into hollow canyons and illuminates the human history of empty trails. Although indecipherable to most of us, words and pictures clearly communicate the important role AlUla has played in shaping the modern Middle East.
The easiest way to fly is direct from London to Saudi Arabia with Saudia or British Airways, taking six and a half hours. Change planes in either capital Riyadh or Jeddah to take a short domestic flight of around 90 minutes to AlUla’s newly renovated international airport, a 35km or 30 minute drive from most accommodation.
Another option is to fly with Emirates Airlines to Dubai where flights connect with Emirates’ partner airline flydubai flying non-stop from Dubai into AlUla International Airport. Alternatively, you can fly with Qatar Airways or Royal Jordanian from the UK non-stop to Doha or Amman with flight connections directly into AlUla. Local Saudi airline flynas provides flights into AlUla from Dubai, Cairo, Riyadh, Jeddah and Dammam.
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Introduction
Hegra
Dadan
AlUla Old Town & AlJadidah
One of Arabia’s oldest cities and home to the Nabataean city of Hegra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ancient region of AlUla is being rediscovered.
For more inspiration, visit experiencealula.com