Shifting sands
On her first visit to Saudi Arabia Victoria Pendleton explores out-of-this-world AlUla, a gateway to Arabia where past and future meet
Many people have something to say about places we know little about. Saudi Arabia is not well known as a tourist destination, and can be met with some controversy, but that is why I was keen to experience it for myself by visiting AlUla, an ancient Arabic oasis in the northwest of the country.
First impressions
I was accompanied by an all-female contingent. The photo editor and photographer were both women, as were our guides who met us at the airport.
I’ve been fortunate to have travelled a fair amount throughout my life, and when you are a guest somewhere, being considerate of the culture is a high priority to me. I had very little previous experience of the Middle East and clothing is one of the most obvious and discussed differences.
With this in mind, I asked for no opinions before the trip. I wanted to travel to AlUla with no preconceived ideas or presumptions, and to have an unbiased view going into it, so that my experience was honest. I had never thought about visiting this region for a holiday, but felt privileged to be able to travel there in the role of a journalist getting to experience a rising tourist destination.
Victoria exploring AlUla’s historic Old Town
As a foreign woman I was probably conservative in my clothing choices; I usually dress practically as a preference (my mother is tired of seeing me dress in utility clothes) and in Saudi Arabia, as a minimum it is suggested that you cover your shoulders and knees, which is also the case when visiting many temples and sacred places in other parts of the world. It also makes sense given the desert climate, where long, loose layers are most practical.
Hegra’s Jabal AlBanat, or ‘Girl Mountain’ reveals clues about social structure with women’s names included in the tomb
Victoria taking a helicopter tour over the scenic canyon views of the Ashar Valley
On our first morning we visited the Unesco world heritage site of Hegra, the Nabataean empire's southern capital city. Standing so close to these enormous ancient tomb facades in the quiet expanse of the desert was truly magical. I was interested to discover that within this vast necropolis, Jabal AlBanat, one of the largest clusters of tombs in Hegra, was designated for high-ranking females. The research into the symbolism and scriptures on the ornate facades indicates that the wealth and status of women in Nabataean society was equivalent to their male counterparts – and that wealth would be passed down from women to daughters.
The opportunities in tourism
I met female rawis (Arabic storytellers) who act as guides at the key heritage sites of Hegra and Jabal Ikmah. Our conversations resonated very positively throughout my trip. Their authority and enthusiasm over their subject matter was undeniable and it was clear to see that opportunities for women were evolving.
Our rawi at Jabal Ikmah, Amal, was bright and enthusiastic. I felt completely at ease in her company and was fascinated by her knowledge and insight into this Lihyanite and Dadanite epigraphical noticeboard of ancient civilisation, also known as ‘the open library’.
Ancient rock inscriptions at Jabal Ikmah
I asked a lot of questions about her training and the opportunities for women in Saudi Arabia. She was keen to explain and described her time spent overseas preparing for this role. An equal number of young men and women are given the opportunity to train overseas to become guides in AlUla, getting experience and training at some of the world’s major tourist destinations.
AlUla is a region that is clearly investing in the future of its tourism industry – an industry that hasn’t historically existed in Saudi Arabia – and by ensuring its employees have the highest level of insight and training, there is a long-term plan to empower the next generation of Saudis on equal terms.
An agricultural haven
In addition to training young local students in history and tourism, agriculture and conservation are high on the agenda. The Oasis in AlUla is the life source of the region, fundamental to the wealth of history and the answer as to why so many civilisations were based here (it was a vital refuge for those on the incense trade route). It was, however, in vital need of preservation.
The lush Oasis of AlUla has provided life to residents, travellers, flora and fauna for thousands of years
Traditional farming in the Oasis had been in decline, fuelled by an increase in global opportunities for young people, and farming not being perceived as an appealing career. Global experts in sustainable agriculture studied the area to optimise the use of the land. They have been educating farmers about more diverse crop choices and tier systems and also implementing drip-feed irrigation to restore the productivity and vibrancy of this precious and historical oasis, which is also being managed in a traditional, authentic way.
Local, fresh produce abounds in the Oasis
A Tama restaurant feast including freshly baked breads, locally grown fruits and vegetables and homemade hummus
The oasis combines farmland with market stalls for the farmers, a designated walkway for people to escape the heat and a relaxation area for tea, with chairs and hammocks to recline in the delightful natural shade of date palms. Much of the produce grown here – fresh herbs, fruit and vegetables – now ends up in local restaurants like the Pink Camel. This is something that many travellers, myself included, now seek out when we see a restaurant menu, and it’s a real privilege to be able to enjoy locally-sourced produce that gives insight into the region.
Protecting wildlife
Climate change and centuries of nomadic grazing has had a detrimental impact on the native wildlife in the region, and many species are on the edge of extinction. But this is something that is also being addressed. The Sharaan Nature Reserve is working to re-establish native shrubland and, subsequently, the diversity of the ecosystem. The long-term goal is to encourage back the smaller mammals, such as gazelle, nubian ibex and hares, as well as birds, in the hope of being able to reintroduce the majestic Arabian leopard. Although the reserve is in the very early stages of establishment, the scale of the plans seem huge, and with funding, experts and education, the outlook for the future is positive.
A hub for learning
Madrasat Addeera was formerly a school that was converted to an art college in AlUla. I was shown around the various departments – jewellery, textiles, ceramics and weaving to name a few. I snuck into the back of a pigment workshop, where the young women were enthusiastically grinding semi-precious stone fragments into powders for ceramic glazes. There was a lot of elbow grease and a fair amount of giggling involved, and I was dying to take part.
Learning the traditional arts and crafts of AlUla at Madrasat Addeera workshops
Locally produced works can be purchased in Al Jadidah and the Old Town
Book your class for jewellery, textiles, ceramics, weaving and more by skilled local artisans
Despite the college being mixed, 80 per cent of the students are women. The ceramic workshop showcases their pieces to local buyers for resorts like the Banyan Tree, who commission the work to appear throughout the resort. The locally made arts and crafts are sold in the boutiques of Al Jadidah and the Old Town, an opportunity for tourists to help support the local economy, sustainably and directly.
Local pride
AlUla has a wealth of natural and historic resources that the local authorities seem to have recognised, creating big plans for the region and heavily investing in it for the future. Focusing on conservation and improvement, there is an awareness that this untapped richness will be a powerful draw for generations of cultural tourists and historians alike. Not only that, the region will be providing a source of career opportunities for the next generation.
I believe that there’s a lot of positivity in a country pushing to progress, identifying and attempting to rectify social discrepancies. Positivity in offering opportunities for local residents, in the conservation of ecosystems and in conserving heritage sites that entrance archaeological experts and tourists alike.
Looking back at the conversations I had in AlUla, I was very aware of a sense of pride from the locals. This unique and historic terminus has been welcoming travellers and visitors since the first millennia BCE, and today wants to re-establish and strengthen that tradition. I felt more welcome and comfortable there than in many other destinations I have visited across the world which was, I admit, a little unexpected.
Cycle the landscapes of AlUla on one of a number of available tours
Victoria says goodbye to Hegra’s ancient wonders
AlUla is full of unexplored places and sights; the untapped and the unknown, which makes it a unique and intriguing destination. It is unspoilt…something that’s increasingly rare these days.
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Each year more than 90,000 tonnes of dates are grown in the Oasis
Victoria samples local AlUla delights
One of Arabia’s oldest cities and home to the Nabataean city of Hegra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ancient region of AlUla is being rediscovered.
For more inspiration, visit experiencealula.com