Vietnam and Cambodia
The wonders of
For travellers in search of an authentic, memorable adventure, these countries deliver in every possible way, says Hannah Hopkins
Imagine a journey that takes you into the heart and soul of south-east Asia, to the colourful cities of Cambodia and Vietnam. You start by taking in the majestic and ancient temples of Siem Reap, before travelling onwards to characterful Hoi An, venturing south to the pristine beaches of coastal Quy Nhon, then finally the bright lights of Ho Chi Minh City. It sounds nothing short of epic. Thrillingly, my plan is to do all this and more over the course of a very special trip crafted by luxury travel experts, Audley.
There is so much history to discover in Siem Reap, which was once the seat of the Khmer kingdom from the ninth to the 15th centuries
Cambodia
I start in Cambodia. Brimming with natural and architectural wonders, this is a country I have always longed to explore – at every turn there’s something for history lovers and adventurous travellers to enjoy.
The city of Siem Reap greets me with a rush of colour; monks in tangerine-coloured robes, bright red tuk-tuks, lush greenery and a flamingo-pink sky. The rich scent of jasmine, grown in the backyards of many Cambodian homes, hangs in the air. Siem Reap was once the seat of the Khmer kingdom from the ninth to the 15th centuries; there is so much history to uncover here.
The city of Siem Reap is a great base from which to explore some of Cambodia’s most well-known temples, with streets filled with shops and local markets
My specialist Anna has recommended an excursion that takes me off the well-worn tourist track to see secret temples that only locals know about. Cycling along hidden jungle paths, my guide Sinath leads me to the Banteay Kdei temple gate, dating from 1181. Four sculpted faces represent Jayavarman VII, the last great king of Cambodia. “He is looking in all directions, but is serene and content, able to see all and look after the people”, explains Sinath. “He was considered one of the most altruistic leaders – the biggest builder of temples, but also someone who was a big proponent of building things that helped the people, especially healthcare centres. He also managed to peacefully combine the Buddhist and Hindu religions – it was a time when the religions worshipped together and got on well.”
Hannah exploring the atmospheric ruins of Buddhist temple Ta Prohm, near Siem Reap
Further along we climb up the hillside to see the north gate of Angkor Thom and then the Bayon temple, home to 216 gigantic smiling faces with long ears, which symbolise a long life.
At Ta Prohm temple, which housed ancient libraries and the ‘Hall of Dancers’, the jungle has run amok, with gigantic kapok trees standing well above its tallest towers and tentacle-like roots entangling the stone bricks. Clusters of beautiful yellow butterflies dance in the air. Surrounded by silence, save for a panoply of cicada hums, bird calls and gibbon squalls, it’s like being in a lost world, untouched by time.
Macaques roam around what was the ancient city of Angkor, home to the Ta Prohm temple, which houses ancient libraries with carvings depicting daily life, and where gigantic kapok trees have run amok. Guide Sinath leads the way to secret temples by bike.
The day ends at Sala Kdei restaurant, on the banks of Srah Srang, a reservoir within the Angkor complex. Immersed in nature, I’m indulged with a relaxing foot massage before an outdoor dining experience of fish amok. This wonderfully fragrant dish is a Cambodian take on a fish curry and has an almost mousse-like texture. Delicate basa fish is steamed to perfection in banana leaf, along with aromatic lemongrass, the subtle heat of chilli and creamy coconut. All combine into a tangy and delicious moreish dish. My trip couldn’t have gotten off to a better start.
The temples of Angkor
Day two begins in spectacular style at Angkor Wat. Built in the 12th century, this is one of the world’s largest religious monuments and a must-see in Cambodia, especially at sunrise. Sinath takes me to an iconic sunrise spot, but he knows a trick to get us there before anyone else. We arrive before other groups, and via a side entrance to the main temple complex, which provides plenty of crowd-free photo opportunities.
Angkor Wat, built in the 12th century, this is one of the world’s largest religious monuments and a must-see in Cambodia
He explains that there are several gates to the temple. Two of these are at ground level – this is where elephants enter during grand processions – while a central gate, which has many steps, is reserved for royalty. The five central towers of Angkor Wat symbolise the peaks of Mount Meru – according to Hindu mythology, the dwelling place of the gods. The temple moat represents the ocean.
As I watch the sun rise over the horizon, the deep-blue sky begins to lighten and the looming figure of Angkor Wat becomes clearer, its reflection appearing in the water. It’s a wonderful way to experience south-east Asia’s largest archaeological site.
Crossing the bridge to the main temple complex, I see the gate is pocked with bullet holes, and inside, the head of Tevoda, a heavenly maiden, has been blown away – all stark reminders of the Cambodian Civil war.
Beginning in the early years of the reign of King Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat took 30 years to be built and was not finished until after his death. Everything has been meticulously designed, from the temple structures to its perfectly shaped moats and intricate pillars, which are carved to create a silhouette of the entire temple. Strolling among these perfectly uniform spaces, you can imagine how the harmony of its design would have created a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere, one which still pervades throughout today.
Take in views from the top of Angkor Wat that show its scale and the vastness of the Khmer empire
Angkor Wat is one of the best preserved temples in what was the ancient city of Angkor. Elaborate, floor-to-ceiling friezes depict religious and mythical scenes, while its five remarkable towers that crown the central temple are carved with designs resembling lotus buds. Exploring it, even for only a few hours, is like heading into another realm, an enchanting and mysterious bygone world, a home worthy of the immortal gods.
I climb to the highest point of the temple (considered closest to heaven) and gaze over the vastness of this ancient Khmer empire. It's a temple unlike one I've ever seen, on a scale I couldn't have anticipated.
Cambodian culture
In Siem Reap I want to delve into the thriving art scene – there are a large number of galleries here with artworks celebrating Cambodia’s history and culture.
Theam’s Gallery is a wonderland of interlocking courtyards containing a studio, gallery and museum
As a lover of contemporary art, my guide recommended I hop on a tuk tuk to visit Theam’s Gallery, a wonderland of interlocking courtyards containing a studio, gallery and museum, which are home to the artist Lim Muy Theam and his 15 cats.
Since the pandemic, tourism has been slow to recover. Audley’s guides can be instrumental in helping communities flourish again, by taking travellers to non-profit ventures such as Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus or Apopo, which uses the smelling abilities of African pouched rats to find and clear unexploded land mines.
Eating and drinking
As the night draws in, my mind turns to dinner. When planning my trip with Audley, their specialists recommended a food tour as one of the best ways to learn about Cambodian cuisine, which is often likened to Thai food but has more subtle layering, with condiments used to enhance flavour.
Siem Reap is home to an array of restaurants, spanning everything from
traditional Cambodian to French cuisine
During my food tour of Siem Reap my tuk-tuk driver Piseth takes me to places the typical traveller is unaware of. One of the restaurants is a modern take on street food. Pou (meaning ‘uncle’ in Khmer), is run by local chef Mork Mengly. “I wanted people to see that even though we’re not in a fancy hotel, we could still produce interesting Cambodian food,” he says. I’m particularly taken with a dish of num banh chok, rice noodles doused in a crab curry and topped with fragrant herbs, and num kruk, a sweet-yet-savoury combination of rice and coconut dumpling with beetroot sauce that’s an elevated take on a Khmer dessert. With a fun twist on traditional dishes, chef Mengly is putting this as-yet underrated cuisine on the map.
On a food tour of Siem Reap dine on modern takes on street food and
vegetarian desserts
This triumphant food odyssey concludes my time in Cambodia. Tomorrow brings a new adventure – Vietnam.
Where to stay in Cambodia
Tan Sotho, the owner of this small boutique hotel in Siem Reap, invites you to think of her place as your home. The design of the hotel is a nod to the famous temple, Angkor Wat, with a bridge entrance into the hotel’s gardens that moves you from the outside world to heaven, hence the name Montra Nivesha, or ‘sacred retreat’.
The shady, timber-framed rooms have views over the garden or the courtyard and main pool, with freestanding tubs, silky bed linen and hand-picked treasures from the Mekong region. Resident chef Prom Bunthoeun takes great pride in the hotel’s Arun and Amok Khmer restaurants, where traditional dishes like banana blossom salad and Mekong lobster soup are served. As well as a boutique and spa, the hotel organises village walks and even monk blessings. This is a truly special stay, full of heart, that feels authentically Cambodian.
Montra Nivesha
Vietnam
My adventure continues in Vietnam: a thrillingly diverse country ready to awaken the senses, with natural beauty, dynamic cities, fascinating history, nuanced cuisine and warm, curious locals with a fierce national pride.
Exploring Hoi An
Cut through with canals from the Thu Bon River, Hoi An, famed for its colourful lanterns, is simply like nowhere else on earth.
Incredibly photogenic, Hoi An’s streets are festooned with colourful lanterns, and are home to communal houses, temples and assembly halls which date back to the 16th and 17th centuries
As I stroll its enchanting streets one-on-one with my guide, Van, it’s easy to imagine how the city might have looked when it was the busiest seaport of the Champa Kingdom. Van has worked for Audley for 20-plus years and knows Hoi An inside out, so I’m set to see her pick of the highlights – and places other visitors often miss.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, Japanese, Chinese, Dutch and Indian traders set up their emporiums or established their own quarters in the city, and this is reflected in the many World Heritage sites dotted throughout. We stroll over the early 17th-century Japanese Covered Bridge, before stopping at the Cam Pho Communal House, the Cantonese Assembly Hall and finally the Fujian Assembly Hall. The smell of incense fills the space, wafting from coiled incense rings that hold travellers’ wishes for good fortune.
Guide Van leads the way on a cycle tour of Hoi An, which takes you out to the countryside surrounding the city to meet locals. Van outside one of Hoi An’s ancient temples.
It’s nearing lunchtime and Van has promised to take me to what she considers to be the best bánh mì stall in Hoi An. At Bánh Mì Hà, an unassuming cart on the side of the road, I tuck into what can only be described as sandwich perfection – irresistibly savoury flavours of umami-packed pork, pâté, chilli sauce, crunchy vegetables and fragrant coriander in a light crispy baguette. The baguette was brought to Vietnam by the French during their colonial rule in the 1880s. The French’s influence can still be seen today, not only in terms of Vietnam’s cuisine but in its architecture, too, and this all adds to Hoi An’s cultural melting pot.
At the 150-year-old Quan Thang Ancient House, sculptures, engravings and precious antiques give insight into the prosperous life of its previous owners. With a cool fresh coconut to drink from, I watch members of the family who own it craft dainty hoa hong trang by hand. Also known as white roses, these delicate shrimp and pork dumplings, shaped to represent the flower, are a Hoi An speciality. Van suggests that if asked, they will stay open for dinner. Returning after dark to feast on the white roses, the head of the family greets us with a warm hug and a “Xin chao!” (welcome!). It’s a truly memorable experience and a story I’ll share with others for years to come.
Hoi An is full of foodie delights, including fragrant bánh mì and hand-crafted dumplings
Delicate shrimp and pork dumplings, called white roses, are a Hoi An specialty
Anna, my specialist, has also suggested exploring Hoi An on two wheels. Doing so with a private guide offers a more distinctive experience of the city, taking you into the countryside, past paddy fields and tiny villages where I meet local mat weavers, traditional boat builders and noodle makers – all incredibly friendly and with their own stories of the real Vietnam to tell.
The most beautiful train journey in the world?
One of the most opulent ways to travel through Central Vietnam is on the Vietage – a luxury train that revives the romance of rail travel, whisking travellers from Da Nang, close to historic Hoi An, to unspoilt Quy Nhon through a captivating rural landscape. Everything has a vintage feel, from the retro train tickets to luggage tags and handwritten welcome notes – passengers even receive a replica of the train crafted in chocolate.
One of the most opulent ways to travel through Central Vietnam is on the Vietage train, where delectable food and drink is served by smartly-dressed hosts, as you soak up views of the countryside
One of our hosts, Khoa, takes us to the train. He wears a uniform created by Vietnamese fashion designer Tom Trandt, with stitching that replicates the pattern of the railway tracks.
The Vietage carriage is exclusive to 12 passengers only, seated in six private booths. I’m whisked away for a 15-minute head-and-shoulder massage from therapist Binh and return for a three-course lunch of local specialities that represent the regions you journey through – Quy Nhon seafood salad, Hoi An chicken rice and Da Lat strawberries with coconut yoghurt, accompanied by free-flowing drinks. The Viet Mojito, made with Samphan rum and floral liquor, also includes butterfly pea tea, which turns the liquid to a brilliant blue.
Enjoy free flowing drinks throughout the train journey, including sparkling wine and an array of cocktails made at the black onyx marble bar
From the window, I see Vietnam's water buffalo (a traditional symbol of the country), flocks of crane and geese taking flight over ponds filled with lotus flowers and the beach at Quang Ngai, which served as a stronghold for the communists during the Vietnam War. As we get closer to our final destination, the 11th-century Banh It Towers come into view.
Finally, I head to the black onyx marble bar – the social hub of the carriage. I chat to a Singaporean businessman who has been on the Vietage no fewer than five times, and continues to be amazed.
Vietnam’s hidden beauty spot
Quy Nhon is a little-known area on the central coast.
Quy Nhon is a well-kept secret on the Vietnamese coast with a captivating rural landscape and pristine white sand beach
The pristine white sand beach and crystal clear waters offer a complete contrast to the bustle of Hoi An and, despite it being easily reachable from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh, it still lacks crowds.
It has temple ruins, seafront hamlets, and Ky Co, an idyllic island for snorkelling, known as the ‘Maldives of Vietnam’.
Ho Chi Minh City: a metropolis on the move
H0 Chí Minh City is a land of motorbikes, their rhythmic honking providing the soundtrack to the city. As my local guide explains, motorbikes are a way of life for residents of what is still commonly referred to as Saigon. Practically every person owns one, and they seem to transport their whole lives on them, from chickens to refrigerators.
The rooftops of Ho Chi Minh City, a place where old and new collide
Here, built around the Saigon River, the old and new coincide; temples and French colonial architecture jostle with modern skyscrapers and designer shops.
Stop off at the Saigon Central Post Office to send a letter or postcard – it’s a piece of living history
There are over seven million motorbikes in Ho Chi Minh, which provide the soundtrack to the city
Country specialist Anna recommends starting the day as many HoồChí Minh City locals do, with a great cup of coffee. I head out to a local cafés for a traditional egg coffee before wandering around the city’s French Quarter to the Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon and the Saigon Central Post Office (don’t forget to send a letter or postcard from here – it’s a piece of living history).
Come evening, my guide takes me to the vibrant Ben Thành district. At Vietnamese restaurant Bep Me In, we practise saying cheers in Vietnamese with our passion fruit beer – “Mot hai ba, dô!” meaning “One, two, three, cheers!” This must be said as loudly as possible to reflect one’s happiness and enthusiasm for life. It’s a sentiment I’m more than happy to take away with me.
Where to stay in Vietnam
This resort is just a 10-minute walk or short cycle ride to Hoi An’s old town (bikes are available for complementary hire), but quiet and peaceful. The main building has a wraparound veranda and elegant arches, with frangipani-filled gardens. I stayed in a Deluxe River View Suite, which has a bedroom on a mezzanine floor, with sunken bathtubs and outdoor terraces – one of the reasons why it was chosen for me, to sit back and watch boats trundle serenely up and down the river. As well as sunset cruises along the river, the hotel also offers a shuttle service to Cua Dai beach. There are two restaurants and Art Space, a streetside bar. When choosing properties, Anna recommended I try the Pho Cocktail, which mimics the flavour of the famous Vietnamese soup. I loved its refreshing notes of fresh ginger and lime, muddled with fragrant basil leaves a highly recommended and uniquely boozy take on a classic dish.
Anantara Hoi An
Another excellent resort in the area, offering pool villas with beachfront or ocean views, set in lush landscaping, with a spotless beach. Special experiences include a Vietnamese-style afternoon tea, martial arts classes, treatments at the cliffside spa and outdoor film screenings.
Anantara Quy Nhon Villas
This hotel in District 1 is within walking distance of Ben Thanh market, as well as museums and cultural sights. Boasting incredible vistas, its 100 guestrooms and suites are spread over several floors, overlooking Ho Chi Minh’s rooftops. Breakfast is served at the Cloud Nine restaurant on the 11th floor, while the rooftop pool and Twilight Sky Bar have 360-degree views of the city skyline.
La Siesta Premium Saigon
Audley’s expert knowledge is invaluable in helping you get the most out of your trip, with specialists who are dedicated to creating the very best holiday for you as an individual. As part of the trip-planning process, they give you the inside track on the best things to see and do, and the perfect places to stay, based on your unique tastes and preferences.
Whether you want to dig deep into the history and culture of a country or get to grips with the local cuisine, they’ll curate an itinerary packed with authentic experiences that give a true taste of each destination. Local guides are handpicked, hotels carefully selected and itineraries are tailored to you, guaranteeing precious memories long after you return.
Plan your Vietnam and Cambodia adventure at audleytravel.com
Map of Cambodia
Map of Vietnam
If it’s seclusion you’re after then this luxurious resort would suit you perfectly. At the tip of a peninsula, its 73 suites and villas melt seamlessly into the natural surroundings, hidden amid forest, coral reef and rice paddies. The style is reminiscent of local architecture, including thatched roofs, reclaimed timbers and bamboo floors.
There are three restaurants: Bà Hai offers dishes from grandmothers’ recipes, Nhà O has south-east Asian cuisine and Làng Chài offers grilled dishes set right on the beach. There are also two bars, an infinity pool, kids club and subterranean spa. Activities include snorkelling trips, cliff top walks and rice harvesting.
As a B-Corp status operator, Audley has a long-term commitment to supporting local communities and practising sustainability through the operators and hotels it works with. Bãi San Hô is a great example of this, using recycled building materials, 600 re-planted trees, no single-use plastics, and rice from their own paddies (with excess harvest being donated locally).
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Project manager: Emma Simpson, Writer: Hannah Hopkins, Photography: Benjamin McMahon, Sub editor: Tim Cumming, Video and Photography Manager: Alex Kelly, Designer: Matt Brant, Web editor: Natalie Wain