An insider’s guide to Bahrain, the Gulf’s gem
With all-year sunshine, limitless activities and a rich cultural heritage, a resident explains why this hotspot is the ideal winter escape
by Claudia Hardt
When I first arrived in Bahrain 20 years ago for a holiday, I didn’t expect the island archipelago to capture my heart as quickly or as deeply as it did – and that I would be back and put down roots as soon as I could. Made up of more than 84 islands – both natural and artificial – this kingdom has an undeniable magic that’s not just about the beautiful desert landscapes and the turquoise waters of the Gulf. It’s found in the warmth of its people, who are so friendly that a request for directions can easily lead to an invitation to share a cup of sweet, spiced tea.
A small island with a big spirit
Bahrain is roughly the same land area as New York City – but it more than makes up for that with its enormous spirit. It’s a multicultural hub that embraces people from all walks of life and is celebrated for its welcoming, inclusive community. You’ll hear a mix of languages on every corner and see a variety of national dress, all seamlessly blended with Bahrain’s own traditions. Even the busiest places in Bahrain carry an easygoing calm that sets the island apart from the rush in other parts of the world.
Map of Bahrain
Pearling Path
3.5km cultural trail in Muharraq that connects restored traditional buildings, a fort, old merchants’ houses and museums to tell the story of the country’s pearling tradition.
Bab al Bahrain
The gateway to the Manama Souq, which offers a unique shopping experience as you explore spices, perfumes, handicrafts and textiles
Bahrain Bay
This waterfront development, home to the Bahrain Harbour Towers and the Four Seasons Hotel, offers stylish dining and shopping as well as leisure activities and parks
Bahrain Fort (Qal at al Bahrain)
Explore the ancient ruins at this Unesco World Heritage Site, which was once the capital of the ancient Dilmun civilisation
King Fahd Causeway
This iconic 15 mile bridge and causeway structure connects Bahrain to Saudi Arabia across the Gulf of Bahrain
Dilmun Burial Mounds
A prehistoric cemetery that is the resting place of people from the Dilmun civilisation, which flourished in the region from around 2300 BC
Royal Golf Club
Tee off on the 18-hole championship course designed by golfing legend Colin Montgomerie, or for families and beginners try the Wee Monty 9-hole, par 3 course
Bahrain International Circuit
This world-class motorsport venue is not to be missed plus get behind the wheel yourself with karting for children and adults
The Lost Paradise of Dilmun Water Park
Take your pick from 18 state-of-the art water slides. There are relaxing rides and adrenaline-fuelled descents too
Durrat Al Bahrain
This group of 15 artificial islands offers luxury villas with either sea or beach views, parks, sports facilities, mosques, shops, restaurants, 12 bridges and a marina
The weather plays its part too. With year-round sunshine and winter temperatures averaging 20-23C, you’re encouraged to be outside, exploring, wandering and soaking up the atmosphere on the beaches along the coast. While Europe cools down, Bahrain glows in warmth.
However, there is much more to this region than sunshine and beaches. It balances progress with heritage; modern Bahrain is cosmopolitan and forward-thinking, but it never forgets its roots. Ancient Dilmun burial mounds lie a short drive from glass towers and traditional fishermen cast their nets in the same waters where luxury yachts glide.
Map of Hawar Islands
Hawar Islands
Spot marine life such as the magical dugongs in shallow waters of this protected area of seagrass beds
One of my favourite ways to start the day is with a hearty breakfast at the legendary Haji’s Café, followed by a stroll through the winding alleys of Manama Souq (Bab Al Bahrain). This beloved dining spot, which opened in 1950, is a local institution and feels more like a neighbour’s kitchen than a restaurant, offering an authentic and inviting atmosphere in the heart of the souq.
Surprises around every souq corner
The charm of Haji’s lies in its simplicity: you perch on wooden benches gazing at walls adorned with nostalgic black-and-white photographs that capture glimpses of Bahrain’s past. The breakfast menu is a celebration of local flavours; the must-try dishes are balaleet (sweet saffron noodles topped with egg) or egg tomato (eggs baked in spicy tomato sauce), all served with freshly baked khubuz (Arabic bread). I always order a steaming cup of red tea or rose milk to make sure my day gets off to a perfect start.
From there, I love to wander into Manama Souq, one of Bahrain’s oldest markets. Beginning at Bab Al Bahrain, the ‘Gateway to Bahrain’, it winds through a maze of alleys filled with the scent of spices, the gleam of gold in jewellery shops, and the lively chatter of tiny cafés. It’s a full sensory journey into the heart of Bahraini culture, cuisine and craftsmanship. I’ve explored it many times, yet it never feels the same twice.
I often stop off at Aloo Basheer, an eatery tucked along Bab Al Bahrain Avenue, to grab one of their delicious spicy, potato-stuffed sambusas. And there are plenty of souvenirs to pick up too – I’ll often indulge myself by picking up flavourful saffron, dried black lemon and the famous Bahraini masala mix. Bargaining here is a playful art – it’s less about discounts than conversations with storekeepers whose families have traded for generations.
While I marvel at the souq’s timeless atmosphere, I also make time to enjoy its contemporary counterparts. Market Street, behind the British Club in Um Al Hassam, a villa-turned-boutique space, showcases local designers, crafters and artisans, offering a different shopping experience. I love supporting these creative entrepreneurs by picking up artisanal jewellery or hand-stitched textiles.
Cross the road from the souq, and you’ll find yourself in a different world. The sleek Bahrain Financial Harbour towers rise against the skyline, a striking contrast to the winding alleys of the Manama souq. I often come here not for business but for one of the free art exhibitions at Harbour Gate retail wing, which showcase both local and international artists.
Shopping, supper and skyscrapers
The dining choices are endless. The multi-award-winning Sushisamba, atop the Conrad, blends Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian influences into a feast, while Roka, perched on the rooftop of Pearl House, serves robatayaki with sweeping ocean views.
Next door, Bahrain Bay has become one of Manama’s architectural landmarks, home to luxury hotels, residential towers and a great family friendly shopping mall The Avenues Bahrain.
Shopping aside, you can stroll along its promenade, linger in a café or hop on a water taxi that cruises across the bay. There are single trips or round trips available, and in the evening, the journey becomes especially magical as the dazzling lights of the skyscrapers reflect off the water and illuminate the night sky.
You can reach the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay by boat and indulge in a meal at Cut by Wolfgang Puck, which offers a contemporary take on the classic American steakhouse. With premium cuts of meat, fresh seafood and a sleek, sophisticated setting overlooking the bay, it’s considered one of Bahrain’s top fine-dining spots and is one of my go-to haunts for a relaxed yet classy Friday brunch.
For something more bohemian, I head to Block 338 in Adliya. This walkable, vibrant neighbourhood is alive with murals and changing artwork, trendy restaurants, rooftop lounges like the stylish Iris, nightclubs and boutique cafés. On weekends, the energy is infectious – music flows into the streets as a cosmopolitan crowd gathers under the stars.
Bahrain caters to every mood. Seeking adventure? Head to Bahrain International Circuit (BIC) for a 4x4 driving experience. Prefer something slower? Take a guided tour through the historic Pearling Path showing the history of Bahrain before the oil era. Horseback riding, desert camping, or boat tours – the island is a playground waiting to be explored.
Activities for everyone
Bahrain’s beaches
Whether looking for luxury, leisure or laid-back fun, there's a beach for everyone. There’s Cipriani Beach Club for luxury, the fun atmosphere of Solymar Beach in Amwaj is home to the Solymar Hotel and its chic beach club vibe, and there’s the lively Marassi Beach at Marassi Al Bahrain. For a more relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere, visit Bilaj Al Jazayer.
But my favourite escape is Jarada, a scenic tidal sandbar about 40 minutes' by boat from Manama. It’s a natural wonder – an island that magically appears during low tide and disappears beneath the sea as the tide rises. With its pristine white sand, crystal-clear waters and stunning vistas, it’s the perfect location to chill, play and enjoy a piece of paradise. A perfect day for me is one spent swimming, snorkelling and grilling with friends as music drifts across the sea from the anchoring boats. We take a cool box stocked with pastries and gâteau slices from The Orangery – a must for anyone with a sweet tooth.
Boat operators at Water Garden City organise private or group trips to Jarada, offering extras like beach chairs, umbrellas, barbecue and snorkelling gear. Check the tide schedule and arrive before low tide to watch the island appear from the sea.
“A perfect day for me is one spent swimming, snorkelling and grilling with friends as music drifts across the sea from the anchoring boats”
For those who prefer hitting the fairways, Bahrain also has a proud golfing heritage. The Royal Golf Club in Riffa, designed by golf legend Colin Montgomerie, offers an excellent setting to test your swing on an 18-hole championship course. It's certainly not the only place to tee off. Awali Golf Club is home to the oldest golf course in the Gulf, officially established in January 1937, and has a unique 18-hole sand course with tight fairways and firm surfaces that presents a fun yet challenging game.
Despite its modern energy, Bahrain never forgets about its past. Nowhere is this more evident than at the Unesco-listed Bahrain Fort, also known as the Portuguese Fort. I often head there to watch the sun set – mango, pineapple and turmeric tropical smoothie in hand – from GB Fort Café’s sea-front terrace. Bahrain is a place that knows how to live in the moment. Whether you’re bargaining in the souq, dining on a rooftop in Adliya, kayaking along the bay or watching the sun set at Bahrain Fort, it’s a place where every day offers a new surprise, a new story, and a new way to fall in love with the island all over again.
Heritage and history
“I often head to GB Fort Café's seafront terrace to watch the sun set – mango, pineapple and turmeric tropical smoothie in hand”
Sightseeing stop-offs
Click on the map to explore the Island
Pearling Path
3.5km cultural trail in Muharraq that connects restored traditional buildings, a fort, old merchants’ houses and museums to tell the story of the country’s pearling tradition.
Bahrain International Circuit
Motorsport fans from around the world come to attend events such as the Bahrain Grand Prix and FIA World Endurance Championship.
Abu Thalma Reef
One of Bahrain’s marine diving and snorkelling sites, complete with underwater wrecks. Great for beginners and experienced divers alike.
Hawar Islands
An area of unique natural beauty where you can see migratory wading birds, coral reefs and herds of gentle dugongs as they swim through the seagrass beds. Stay at the Hawar Resort by Mantis and enjoy adventures such as paddle boarding and quad bike tours.
Sa’ada
A waterfront destination in Muharraq that combines leisure, dining and entertainment and where you can catch a water taxi along the coast.
Local resident Claudia Hardt answers the most frequently asked questions about visiting Bahrain...
Do I need to cover up?
The dress code is fairly relaxed and western-style clothing is fine, however it’s respectful to dress modestly in public places.
Tipping in Bahrain is appreciated but not compulsory. Tip porters 1-2 BHD (£2-4) and if a service charge isn’t included in your restaurant bill, add 10 to 15 per cent.
What is the tipping culture?
For private beaches and hotel pools, swimsuits, bikinis and trunks are fine. Swimwear is not recommended on public beaches so cover up out of the water.
Can I wear a swimming costume on the beach?
Air conditioning is standard in all hotels in Bahrain, and in bedrooms, restaurants, lobbies and gyms.
Is there air-con in all the hotels?
While drinking alcohol in public places is prohibited, it is readily available at licensed venues such as hotels, bars, restaurants and private clubs.
Can I drink in public?
Discover more about Bahrain — the limitless island holiday destination
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Writer: Claudia Hardt | Project manager: Alex Rose | Commissioning editor: Georgina Hardy | Sub-editors: Neil Queen-Jones and Tim Cumming | Picture editor: Katie Longley | Designer: Victoria Griffiths | Web editor: James Nash
An authentic breakfast awaits at the legendary Haji’s Café
An archipelago of desert beauty and turquoise seas, Bahrain quickly captures the heart
The Bab Al Bahrain – the ‘gateway to Bahrain’ – is the entrance to the Manama Souq
Wander the timeless alleys of the Manama Souq for a journey through Bahraini culture
Indulge in delicious potato-stuffed sambusas from Aloo Basheer
Hop on a water taxi for incredible views of Bahrain Bay
The Avenues Bahrain is the perfect spot for family friendly shopping
Enjoy a unique blend of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cuisine at Sushisamba
The Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay offers an excellent selection of dining experiences and can only be accessed by boat
Escape to Jarada, a stunning tidal sandbar that magically appears at low tide
Watching the sun set over the Unesco-listed Bahrain Fort is the best way to end your day
Modern Bahrain perfectly blends glass skyscrapers with traditional fishing boats