When time is on your side, the magic of
the Rhine shines through
TV stars Stephen and Viv Redding find themselves in their element on a relaxing and immersive Great Rail Journeys' Rhine river cruise
By Rory Ross
Stephen and Viv Redding used to call themselves “well-holidayed, but not well-travelled”. That changed when they tuned in to the BBC’s Race Across the World from their home in Rutland, and saw a caption flash up on the screen: ‘Deadline for applications for next series closes in a week’.
“We sent over a one-minute video the next day,” says Viv. “Six weeks later we were in.”
That one-minute video extended to a star turn on Race Across the World, as they raced from Sapporo in Japan to Lombok in Indonesia, finishing fourth but winning the nation’s affections.
Seizing the moment and seeing the world became their modus operandi after they had both suffered ill health. When Stephen had a heart attack in 2006, the couple drew up a bucket list, and when Viv had a stroke in 2011, they made a new bucket list. “It was more urgent than the first one,” says Viv. “We’ll give anything a go.”
Stephen and Viv step aboard the Eurostar at London St Pancras, bound for MS Amadeus Imperial in Strasbourg to start their cruise to Amsterdam
It was a whirlwind decision that catapulted them to fame on Race Across the World and sparked a renewed love of travel. A river cruise is something Viv has always wanted to do – and as an enthusiastic sailor, Stephen loves being on the water, so when the opportunity arose to climb aboard Great Rail Journeys’ Majestic Rhine cruise from Strasbourg to Amsterdam, they went for it.
“We decided after appearing on TV that we’re up for most things – but with some basic rules,” says Stephen. “We want to enjoy ourselves and we want to be well looked after.” Great Rail Journeys’ escorted holidays would be the perfect fit…
After climbing aboard the Eurostar from London St Pancras – a first for the Reddings – they arrive in Strasbourg in the Upper Rhine Valley. Their home for the next week, MS Amadeus Imperial, is docked alongside a quay.
“Wow!” cries Stephen as he enters the naturally lit reception atrium with its marble and glass staircase. “Everything is so white, crisp and clean.”
Viv is equally impressed. “We’ve been on big cruise ships before, but Amadeus Imperial has an intimacy about it,” she says. “It’s a stunning space: sumptuous but cosy and relaxed too. I like the vibe. Our cabin is fantastic: we have a walk-in wardrobe, lovely shower room, even a Juliette balcony. I’m going to be very comfortable here.”
At the welcome cocktail evening, passengers meet the captain, Tom Buining, and the head chef Thomas Harder, who is in charge of keeping everyone well fed. “Butter, cream and bacon make any food taste better,” Harder tells the assembled guests with a grin. “I want everyone to put on two kilos!”
As an ex-school teacher, Stephen once taught German and delights in being in a German-speaking city. “With the castle and river views, Heidelberg has such a romantic feel,” he says. “And our guide was so knowledgeable about the history of this ancient university town – its university was founded in 1386.”
It’s not all romantic ruins along this working river, however: the ship passes industrial sites, including a vast plant at Ludwigshafen, which looks like a futuristic city, and hulking cargo ships. “Many passengers love the industrial bits,” says cruise manager Kate Leigh, while pointing out the sights to the Reddings. “Some even get excited about pre-stressed concrete bridges and lock mechanisms.”
A few kilometres later, the ship goes by Worms where, in 1521, Martin Luther set off a chain of events that split Christendom and transformed the religious, political and cultural life of Europe.
Chatting with interesting people was part of the appeal of joining a Great Rail Journeys’ escorted tour for the sociable Reddings. Among the passengers they meet are a potter, an RAF weapons expert, an arable farmer, a beef farmer, a retired pharmacist, a retired professor of child psychology, a retired police officer and many retired engineers. Twenty-eight passengers on the Majestic Rhine cruise are travelling solo.
“There is a lovely community spirit onboard,” says Viv. “This ship calls itself a ‘floating hotel’, but unlike in most hotels, you meet other guests at dinner and chat out on deck. We had great fun playing deck shuffleboard while we took in the views. Everyone seems to be really enjoying themselves.”
Waking up in Cologne for the final few days of their cruise, Stephen reminisces that he last visited the city as a teenager on a school trip. He’s looking forward to a more insightful experience this time, with Great Rail Journeys’ tour guide on hand and it’s Viv’s birthday so she’s looking forward to celebrating.
While the city was flattened during the Second World War, Cologne cathedral, built between the 13th and 19th centuries, survived as a navigation landmark for Allied bombers. Today the world’s tallest twin-spired church, at 157m, is Germany’s most-visited monument, another Unesco World Heritage Site. With its Gothic spikes, it resembles a giant porcupine.
Another important feature of Cologne is its beer. On their guided tour, Stephen and Viv drop in on one of the city’s 25 brewery houses. The first breweries opened their doors and chalked up a price list in 1412, while the oldest surviving brewery house in the city, Brauhaus Sion, dates back to 1511. “We have a saying,” one local tells them. “Everyone is equal in front of a beer.”
In the afternoon, as the ship sets sail for Amsterdam, Stephen and Viv book a massage with the ship’s resident masseuse Elena. “It was lovely,” says Stephen. “It really Zenned me out and it was extra-relaxing knowing I was cruising along a river.”
In the evening, after a cocktail party, the much anticipated Gala Dinner explodes with sparklers and sequins, headed by Kate Leigh. “If you think you are overdressed, try and beat me,” she says.
Viv wears a sparkly top and some of the men, including Stephen, dig out jackets and ties. Although anything goes, says Kate, with no pressure for anyone to dress up.
A Great Rail Journeys’ river cruise is a relaxing and effortless way to explore some of Europe’s prettiest landscapes and most historic places. Stephen and Viv went on Great Rail Journeys’ eight-day Majestic Rhine cruise from Strasbourg to Amsterdam, which costs from £2,499 per person and has departures in May, June and July in 2025. The eight-day Romantic Rhine is another popular option, starting in Amsterdam and taking in the Moselle River and the old town of Cochem before ending in Strasbourg. All of Great Rail Journeys' cruises include travel on the Eurostar and connections, with options to upgrade to First Class, all meals including a spectacular Gala Dinner and a drinks package with dinner every night. You can even sign up for its complimentary luggage service to have your suitcases taken from your home to the ship and back, leaving your hands free.
Make connections, forge lasting memories and discover new experiences around the world with Great Rail Journeys. To plan your next adventure, visit greatrail.com
Specially built for river cruising, Amadeus Imperial can adjust her height from 10m to 5.9m in order to clear low bridges. She can also navigate shallows by removing ballast. “She is built like a canoe,” says Captain Buining, proudly. “The bow and the stern are the same. That makes her very fast. She can go like a bullet.”
Create your own river cruise memories
Moments that last a lifetime
Day 7-8
Cologne and Amsterdam
Day 3-4
From Speyer and Heidelberg to Rüdesheim and the Rhine Gorge
The Reddings have visited Amsterdam on numerous occasions before and always enjoy taking relaxing strolls past the canals through cobbled streets
“They’ve really pushed the boat out tonight!” says Stephen. “It’s almost like they knew it was your birthday, Viv.” After a glorious dinner, Viv is presented with a cake, a rendition of Happy Birthday by passengers and crew, and more dancing. “The perfect evening,” she says.
Later, when the ship passes through the Prince Bernhard lock at Tiel, Stephen gets up with some of the other guests in the middle of the night to watch its passage. “Magic!” says Stephen.
The following morning is spent riding the Medemblik Steam Railway, a delightful historic train which skirts the Netherlands’ coastline, passing pretty Dutch windmills, and chugging through the flat expenses and big skies of the West Fresian countryside, with its forests, salt marshes, beaches and dunes. Later that day, the Reddings wander the pretty canals and cobbled streets of Amsterdam. “We have been here many times and absolutely love it,” says Stephen. “It’s lovely just to wander around, soaking up the atmosphere, without having to tick off all the sights. It’s a relaxed end to what has been a wonderfully organised and easy trip.”
However, while all good things must come to an end, there’s one more treat in store on the last evening before Stephen and Viv disembark and travel back to London on the Eurostar: a Dutch choir singing sea shanties during dinner.
Day six was spent in Cologne, enjoying a beer in a brewery house (top) and visiting the world's tallest twin-spired church, Cologne Cathedral (left) The couple took the Medemblik Steam Railway (right) on day seven to enjoy iconic views of Dutch windmills
Now that a river cruise has been ticked off Viv’s bucket list, did it live up to her expectations? “It was wonderful,” she exclaims. “It was so relaxing to watch the countryside, see pretty towns and take part in lots of activities. There was a good atmosphere among the passengers. For some, this was their first cruise; for others they were already hooked.”
Part of the appeal was the ease and sociability, but also the fact that they could spend time on their own and pick and choose which activities to take part in. Great Rail Journeys’ cruise manager Kate Leigh plays a big part in that flexibility. She makes it her mission to create a warm and welcoming atmosphere on board – but there is no pressure on guests to join in any activities or excursions.
“I get to know passengers and how to keep them happy and entertained,” she says. “I’m not here to sell, but to be part of the cruise. I often say to my guests: ‘Leave your brain at home. I’ll do the thinking’. If people don’t want to do an excursion, then I can arrange other things. In Strasbourg, for example, several passengers wanted to ride the trams, so I helped them to do that.”
Stephen agrees. “We had a fabulous week,” he says. “It has exceeded all our expectations. We’re already talking about when to book a cruise along the Danube,” he adds. And in light of the richness of the experiences, the destinations, the highlights and special moments they experienced together on their Great Rail Journeys’ cruise along the Rhine, they were secure in being able to depend on people like Captain Buining, chef Harder, and cruise manager Kate Leigh, so they didn’t have to worry about a thing. “I really liked the fact that there is no up-selling,” says Stephen. “Everything is included with Great Rail Journeys, which makes things so relaxing.”
'It was so relaxing to watch the countryside, see pretty towns and take part in lots of activities. There was a good atmosphere among the passengers'
Viv Redding
'History suddenly comes to life, seeing all these castles'
Stephen Redding
Onboard a Great Rail Journeys’ river cruise ship
Built in 2020, the ship belongs to the Austrian Lüftner family who pioneered river cruises in the 1970s. After the Covid pandemic confined her to port for 15 months, she is effectively only two years old. “This ship is fantastic,” says Captain Buining, who steers Great Rail Journeys’ Majestic Rhine Cruise. A veteran of 45 years in the wheelhouse, Amadeus Imperial is his 15th ship.
At the stern is the Amadeus Bar. There are rooms for fitness and massages here too. Her top deck is furnished with chairs, tables, deckchairs, potted plants and deck shuffleboard, which passengers can enjoy playing on sailing days.
At 135m long by 11.45m wide, she takes 168 passengers in 72 deluxe cabins and 12 Amadeus suites with walk-out balconies, served by 46 crew. All rooms have en suite bathrooms, and TV screens. Aptly described as a ‘floating five-star hotel’, she has a Panorama Bar and outdoor River Terrace on the upper deck and a fully serviced restaurant on the lower deck where seating is unallocated – take a seat where you fancy and meet your fellow passengers over a delicious dinner.
On the way down, Stephen and Viv stop off at Schloss Drachenburg, a late 19th-century castle built by Stephen von Sarter, a banker who intended to live there, but never did. One remarkable feature of the Schloss is its gallery of painted glass windows depicting historic personalities. The couple are mesmerised by them.
“I’m colour blind,’ admits Stephen. “But I’m impressed by the intricacy of them and the vivid hues that even I can see.”
Day 5-6
Königswinter and Cologne
After an overnight passage along the Rhine, the ship arrives at Speyer, a beautiful old town in Germany’s Rhineland-Palatinate region. The Reddings set off on an escorted tour of Heidelberg, hailed as one of Germany’s most beautiful cities, on the River Neckar.
The city’s main feature is its imposing castle which looms over its old town. A mish-mash of architectural styles, these evocative ruins have a fascinating history. It was originally the 13th-century home of the Counts Palatine of the Rhine. When in 1688 the Palatinate suffered a lapse in succession, Louis XIV of France invaded. After bombarding the castle for four years, he ordered his troops to burn down Heidelberg and to blow up the castle. It can still be seen today in its ruined state.
The trickiest stretch of the river is the narrow strait around the 132-metre Lorelei Rock. This famous maritime disaster site is aswirl with legends of evil dwarfs and myths of a beautiful siren, and immortalised in Wagner’s epic opera, The Ring Cycle. The Reddings are transfixed by the views, along with the rest of the passengers gathering on deck to gaze at the scenery.
At Koblenz, the Moselle meets the Rhine beneath an epic 37m equestrian statue of Wilhelm I, a monument to the German nation founded in 1871. Stephen and Viv take a cable car over the Rhine to the viewpoint at the 19th-century Ehrenbreitstein Fortress where they admire the full panorama of the confluence of these two mighty rivers.
“The views are spectacular" says Viv. Afterwards, they take a walk along the river bank. “We found the Rhine Cycle Route, which goes all the way from the source of the Rhine to the North Sea, about 850 miles,” says Stephen.
Captain Buining invites passengers on a behind-the-scenes tour of the ship: engine room, laundry room, mess room and the kitchen, lair of Thomas Harder and his brigade of 20.
“Thomas is fantastic,” says Buining. “We have a lot of fun together. Last week when Holland lost to Germany in the football, it cost me €20.”
A glimpse at what goes on behind the scenes is intriguing and whets the Reddings’ appetite for the evening meal ahead.
“The food on board is wholly spectacular,” says Stephen. “It feels like fine dining every evening. The service is superb, and everything is done properly. There is always a choice of dishes and regional delicacies such as the Bavarian buffet. But the stand-out dish for both of us has been the beef Wellington.”
Day three saw a trip to the romantic ruins of Heidelberg Castle, one of the grandest castles of the Renaissance (left) and on day four the couple took a winery tour of Rüdesheim Vineyard (right)
Stephen and Viv enjoyed taking in the romantic views of the Rhine Gorge whilst relaxing with a drink onboard the cruise ship
Other distinctive Great Rail Journeys touches on board that charm the Reddings include Yorkshire Tea bags – a nod to the York-based tour operator’s roots – and the quality of its buffet lunches.
Next, the ship arrives at the wine-making town of Rüdesheim in the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, a stunning Unesco World Heritage Site. This is the Rheingau, birthplace of riesling wine. Above the town, the Niederwald monument commemorates the 1871 Unification of Germany and the birth of the modern German state; a cable car takes you from the town over the vineyards and up to the monument.
“It’s a really pretty town centre with its little cobbled streets,” says Stephen, “but so easy to get around.” He and Viv join a winery tour, complete with tastings, and meet Adolf Störzel whose family has made wine in this part of the Rheingau since 1647. That’s quite a vintage. Today Störzel makes wines under his own label. “We tasted some of his delicious rosé and white wines. The experience was great and it was fantastic to try some German wines."
After Rüdesheim, the cruise enters its most romantic passage, the Rhine Gorge, 130km of terraced vineyards and castle-lined cliffs winding its way through the Rheinish Slate Mountains. Its steep vine- and forest-clad slopes are punctuated by fairy-tale castles perched on crags, each with their own romantic legends of robber barons, miracles, drownings, thwarted love and ‘happily ever afters’. Now a Unesco World Heritage Site, many of the castles were wrecked by the French invasion of 1688. Those that are restored resemble Disney-esque fantasies.
The highlight of the trip for the Reddings was Schloss Drachenburg castle and its strikingly painted glass windows
The ship murmurs downriver towards Königswinter at the foot of the Drachenfels (Dragon’s Rock) hill, crowned by a ruined 12-century castle. It’s one of the Siebengebirge (seven hills) that form the German Central Uplands. Rhinish romanticism goes into overdrive here: a cave on the side of Drachenfels once sheltered a dragon that Siegfried, hero of the epic Song of the Nibelungs, slayed.
Stephen and Viv board Germany’s oldest cog railway to the 289m summit. “This historic railway is not only fun but also essential if you really want to get the best views,” says Stephen. The majesty of the panorama of North Rhine-Westphalia spreading away from the summit inspired Lord Byron to compose his poem The Castled Crag of Drachenfels (1816)…’The river nobly foams and flows…’
'What an amazing place, This is the highlight'
Stephen Redding
Day 1-2
Strasbourg, Black Forest and embarkation
The district of Petite France in Strasbourg reminded Viv of Chester (top) as the couple explored the menagerie of shops and bakeries (left) and visited the grand High Gothic cathedral (right)
Returning to the ship, they compare their Great Rail Journeys experience to the rigours of Race Across the World. “Everything is done for you and there is no competition,” says Stephen. “We just need to sit back and relax and enjoy everything.”
Back in Strasbourg, Viv’s unerring sense of direction that made her a formidable competitor on Race Across the World, comes into its own as the Reddings stroll independently around the city that’s dominated by the beauty of its High Gothic cathedral. The tottering half-timbered labyrinth of Petite France, Strasbourg’s old tanning district, reminds Viv of the “Tudor-like bits of Chester”.
“Oh look,” she says, checking her phone. “I’ve done 16,500 steps so far today. That’s 7.5 miles.”
There are more steps to come. After dinner, Kate Leigh, Great Rail Journeys’ ebullient cruise manager, hosts a music quiz. Passengers win extra points if they get up and dance. Which inspires Stephen and Viv to hit the dance floor, hard. “Brilliant!’ says Viv, who is in her element. “Dancing always breaks the ice. At home, we dance four times a week. I like line dancing and ballroom.”
Overnight, the ship sets off into the heart of the German nation.
Day two of the Reddings' trip took them to the Black Forest region, for an escorted walk around the ruins nearby the Allerheiligen Waterfalls
The following morning, an atmospheric mist swathes the ship as the Reddings set off on the first of several escorted excursions – all of which are included on Great Rail Journeys’ river cruises. “It’s so lovely to switch off and let someone else do the thinking and planning,” says Viv, as they explore the Black Forest National Park in Baden-Württemberg. This region is famous for its cherries, an ingredient in Black Forest Gateau as well as Black Forest cherry schnapps. Both of which the Reddings and their fellow guests sample while on this excursion.
As well as verdant forest walks and what Stephen describes as “a delightful drive through picturesque villages that are perfectly Badisch”, one of the highlights for the Reddings is the stop at Mummelsee. A mountain lake at 1,036m, it is the largest of seven in the Black Forest. The group learn about the magical legends attached to it – the Mümmlein, beautiful maidens who are said to live in a magnificent, crystal castle in the lake’s unfathomable depths.
“Looking down into the valleys as we climb higher, the view is ethereal,” says Stephen. “We’re loving this area. It’s not a part of Germany we’d thought of visiting before. Now, it's firmly on our travel list.”
“There is a healthy feel, too,” says Viv, “with footpaths and cycle paths, and clean fresh air.”
The windows of Schloss Drachenburg depict famous historic figures (left) and religious imagery (right), with colours so vivid that the couple were mesmerised by their vibrancy
Back on board, Thomas Harder’s apple-strudel masterclass draws crowds. The Reddings gather to watch as the chef deftly rolls the pastry so it’s paper thin and rolls it with cinnamon-scented apple to create the famous German and Austrian dessert that is a firm favourite of guests on board Great Rail Journeys’ Rhine cruises. Appetites piqued, they head off for an aperitif in the Amadeus Bar before dinner.
The ship sails overnight towards Cologne.
Produced by
Telegraph Media Group
Project Manager: Abby Draycott | Commissioning Editor: Rachel Truman | Writer: Rory Ross| Photography: Andrew Urwin and additional photography: Getty, Stephen & Viv Redding | Design: Jonathan Clayton-Jones | Sub Editor: Tim Cummings, Neil Queen-Jones | Video and Photography Manager: Alex Kelly | Web Editor: Ross Thomas
Medemblik
Hoorn
Amsterdam
Cologne
Koblenz
Rüdesheim
Heidelberg
Speyer
Strasbourg
London
When time is on your side, the magic of
exploring the Rhine shines through
Day six was spent in Cologne, enjoying a beer in a brewery house (top) and visting the world's tallest twin-spired church, Cologne Cathedral (left) The couple took the Medemblik Steam Railway on day seven to enjoy iconic views of Dutch windmills (right)
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