The making of a beauty hero
Products like SkinCeuticals’ C E Ferulic are so remarkable they deserve a place in skincare history, says beauty expert Cassie Steer
‘SkinCeuticals antioxidant serums are not only grounded in science, they’re grounded in good science and that’s an important distinction to make’
– consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne
‘Everyone should be using an antioxidant serum – it’s never too early or too late to start’
– consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne
Antioxidants, such as vitamin C, are the free radical-fighting powerhouses of the beauty world
A cult serum is born
More than three decades of research makes a compelling case for raising SkinCeuticals vitamin C serums above the parapet.
“Formulation is everything when it comes to creating a product that is going to deliver efficacious results,” says Dr Craythorne. Formulas also happen to be SkinCeuticals' specialist subject, having paved the way by creating a modern blueprint for how a vitamin C serum should be formulated.
Protect the skin you’re in, one drop at a time
Environmental aggressors produce free radicals, which are unstable compounds that cause cellular damage by ‘stealing’ electrons from stable molecules, creating a destructive domino effect in the skin. Antioxidants such as vitamin C are the free radical-fighting powerhouses of the beauty world, saving our skin cells from environmental damage that can wreak havoc on our complexions.
Your 5-step routine
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“When it comes to incorporating an antioxidant serum into a daily skincare regime, my mantra tends to be ‘protect in the morning and treat at night’,” says Dr Craythorne. “While vitamin C can certainly be used as part of a bedtime routine, daytime is typically when we encounter the most environmental aggressors, so I advise saving photosensitive ingredients such as retinol or those used to target specific skin concerns like blemishes or pigmentation for the nighttime.”
If you have very sensitive skin, start by applying your vitamin C serum every other day and work up to daily use as it’s always advisable to start slowly when adding in a new skincare ingredient. And in terms of application, here Dr Craythorne shows us the best way to get the most out of this important skincare step.
“Protecting your skin from free radical damage is probably the single most important thing you can do for it,” notes Dr Craythorne. “Not only will it ensure a brighter, healthier [looking], more radiant complexion now, it will also help to future-proof your skin.”
“Early prevention is key,” adds board-certified dermatologist Dr Dianne Davis. “So the sooner you start using antioxidant serums, the better.” Luckily SkinCeuticals’ Silymarin CF has been formulated to tackle the appearance of breakouts, fine lines and wrinkles so is perfect for younger, blemish-prone skin.
SkinCeuticals’ founding scientist, Dr Sheldon Pinnell, established and patented the first vitamin C formulation parameters (known as the Duke Parameters) for ensuring effective absorption and efficacy within skin.
“There are many derivatives and variants of vitamin C, but Dr Pinnell’s ground-breaking research found that it’s the L-ascorbic acid form (otherwise known as pure vitamin C) at a pH of between 2 and 3.5 and at a concentration of 10 to 15 per cent that happens to be the optimal (and patented) combination,” says Dr Craythorne.
“This trilogy has specifically been found to provide meaningful levels of vitamin C in the skin in order to deliver effective results,” she continues. “While vitamin C has been shown to work at 20 and even 25 per cent, it also begins to get pretty irritating on the skin at these levels and the side effects start to outweigh any benefits, so the sweet spot to look out for is definitely the 10-15 per cent dosage.”
It’s this meticulous and pioneering research into vitamin C that has established SkinCeuticals antioxidants serums as the derm favourites they are today. “Everyone should be using an antioxidant serum – it’s never too early or too late to start,” says Dr Craythorne. “The key is finding the right one for your skin. Luckily, SkinCeuticals’ formulas, which cater for a variety of skin types, means that everyone can find their perfect match,” she adds.
Normal, dry or ageing skin? Opt for C E Ferulic. If discolouration is your beauty bug-bear Phloretin CF is the one for you. And for those with oily, blemish-prone skin, Silymarin CF is specially formulated to reduce excess sebum by up to 15 per cent.*
* 12 week clinical study, 60 women (Brazil 2020)
‘Protecting your skin from free radical damage is probably the single most important thing you can do for it’
– consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne
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Writer: Cassie Steer | Project manager: Alex Rose | Commissioning editor: Rebecca Denne | Sub-editor: Tim Cumming
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Picture credits: Getty, SkinCeuticals
So, what are the three main offenders we should be shielding our skin from?
Protect against pollution
Safeguard against sun damage
Erase the everyday
As our biggest organ and first defence against the environment, it’s no surprise that environmental stressors such as pollution, dust, chemicals and cigarette smoke might have a negative impact on our skin. Emerging research points to traffic pollution in particular as a potentially toxic substance for our skin and it is now clear that pollution is an important cause of skin ageing. Pollution has many elements, including small and large particles, which trigger reactions including the formation of free radicals as well as pigment spots and wrinkle formation, so adding in an antioxidant serum such as SkinCeuticals’
C E Ferulic to help off-set these processes is paramount.
The modern skincare arena is a crowded and confusing place. A seemingly continuous explosion of products launch themselves into the market amid much pomp and fanfare, only for many to fall by the wayside in a disappointing fizzle.
Then there are the products that transcend the noise of even the buzziest launches to emerge as true beauty game-changers; the skincare superstars whose research and results speak for themselves. One such product, beloved by beauty editors, skin experts and medical professionals alike, is the inimitable C E Ferulic.
“SkinCeuticals antioxidant serums are not only grounded in science, they’re grounded in good science and that’s an important distinction to make,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne, who has recommended the range to her clients for almost a decade. “SkinCeuticals’ patented formulas have been subject to rigorous clinical research both by the brand itself and independently, so we, as skin professionals, can clearly see how the serums work both in cells and on real people. As a result, I feel very confident that the product is going to do what it says it will do.”
Dr Emma Craythorne
Dr SHELDON PINNELL
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STEP
01
Cleanse your face thoroughly with your favourite cleanser and pat your skin dry.
Science-backed skincare
Science-backed skincare
SkinCeuticals’ range of powerful Vitamin C serums, sold by 10,000 clinics worldwide.
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1/3C E FERULICOur #1 patented Vitamin C Serum*. Targets 8 signs of ageing and is formulated for dry, mature skin types.*Based on sell out value and volume data, 2023.
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2/3PHLORETIN CFThis Vitamin C serum helps diminish uneven skin tone, improves texture and targets the appearance of discolouration.
3/3SILYMARIN CF
Reduce the appearance of blemishes and oiliness with this SkinCeuticals powerful antioxidant serum.
The three main types of rays that damage our skin are UVA, UVB, and infrared rays (IR), all of which have the ability to penetrate skin and cause damage to cells and DNA through oxidative stress. A broad-spectrum sunscreen is a good first port of call and should be incorporated into a daily regime. For broad-range protection against all sources of environmental skin assaults, it’s imperative to use a topical antioxidant such as SkinCeuticals’ Phloertin CF (which also works to diminish the look of hyperpigmentation) in conjunction with a daily sunscreen.
Even if we lived in a vacuum-sealed bubble where temperature, light and air quality were carefully controlled, we would still be subject to oxidative stress as just the simple act of breathing can generate free radicals. “Although we think about environmental factors such as sunlight, pollution and radiation as accelerating the process of fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation, the body’s own metabolic processes can also lead to free radical damage,” explains aesthetic physician Dr Taktouk, who runs his own Taktouk Clinic in Knightsbridge.
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Apply 3-4 drops of your favourite SkinCeuticals serum to your face, neck and décolleté, patting any excess product onto the backs of the hands. Take care not to miss areas such as the upper lip, which tends to be a place that people inadvertently skip.
Depending on your individual skin concerns, follow with a hydrating serum such as SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier, or one designed to target discolouration, such as SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum.
Apply your moisturiser. Skincare should typically be applied from thinnest to thickest in terms of consistency so this skincare staple should always come after your serum.
Finish with an even layer of broad-spectrum facial sunscreen in order to provide enhanced protection from environmental damage and UV radiation.
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Finish with an even layer of broad-spectrum facial sunscreen in order to provide enhanced protection from environmental damage and UV radiation.
Apply your moisturiser. Skincare should typically be applied from thinnest to thickest in terms of consistency so this skincare staple should always come after your serum.
Depending on your individual skin concerns, follow with a hydrating serum such as SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier, or one designed to target discolouration, such as SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum.
Apply 3-4 drops of your favourite SkinCeuticals serum to your face, neck and décolleté, patting any excess product onto the backs of the hands. Take care not to miss areas such as the upper lip, which tends to be a place that people inadvertently skip.
Cleanse your face thoroughly with your favourite cleanser and pat your skin dry.