As the season changes, the true spirit of Dubai springs to life
Look beyond the iconic skyscrapers of Dubai, and you will find a city full of arty neighbourhoods, delicious eateries, fascinating culture and of course the beach. This spring, Dubai ticks all your sun-seeking boxes says local expert and resident Sarah Hedley Hymers
Spring is my favourite of the seasons. It’s a time for rebirth, rejuvenation, reinvention… and, of course, travel.
As a travel writer, there is nowhere I would rather be in spring this year than in Dubai, particularly with Ramadan – a laid-back month of reflection – coinciding with the season.
Having lived here for more than a decade, I’ve had a front-row seat to the emirate’s dynamic transformation into one of the world’s leading tourist destinations, as voted for by the globetrotting public in multiple polls and evident in rising footfall at Dubai International.
DXB, as the airport is known, ranked among the aviation authority Skytrax’s top 10 airports of 2024, and two years before that it was the world’s busiest airport based on international passenger traffic.
Café society
Culinary diversity
Spring pursuits
Ramadan Reality versus misconception
Cafe society
Spring weekends start in colourful cafés, complemented by tree-lined terraces, devouring slabs of sourdough toast topped with ruby-hued figs, snow-white feta and toasted walnuts, doused in local honey – my must-order at vegetarian-friendly neighbourhood eatery Joga, of which there are six located across the city.
To mingle with the city’s artisans, head to East West Atelier at The Courtyard in Al Quoz, an industrial estate that’s become an edgy urban art hub. The quaint atrium café is a favourite of Emirati fashion designer Feryal Al Bastaki.
This hotspot is famed for its menu, which merges Eastern and Western flavours: the Turkish eggs with Aleppo pepper butter, whipped yogurt and organic toast is a reasonably priced delight, according to Al Bastaki, whose trained eye also admires the setting.
“The cosy and stylish interior is brightened by natural sunlight, which filters in beautifully through arched windows, and the abundance of greenery infuses a refreshing touch,” she says. “When I’m in Al Quoz, I also enjoy visiting the many galleries to immerse myself in Dubai’s vibrant art scene and discover new creative inspirations.”
The designer’s recent work includes a gift collection for the hotly anticipated Jumeirah Marsa Al Arab, which opens on 14 March. The Shaun Killa-designed hotel, with unobstructed views of sibling Jumeirah Burj Al Arab, includes 386 rooms and suites, 82 luxury residences, an 82-berth superyacht marina, five pools, 11 restaurants, nine bars and a 3,500-square-metre spa set over three floors.
With 200 nationalities happily co-habiting in Dubai, you can expect to find a diverse culinary landscape in the emirate. You can dive into a £5 plate of biriyani, with clouds of steam escaping from beneath spiced rice that tastes like it’s fresh from the leaf bowls of Bangalore, or you can indulge in the quintessentially French riches of the cream-and caviar-laden creations designed by Paris’ culinary hero Yannick Alléno. His portfolio of restaurants holds 16 Michelin stars, including two earned by Stay by Yannick Alléno at Dubai’s One&Only The Palm. Don’t leave Dubai without sampling a heavenly mouthful of his langoustine mousse tarte with ginger beurre blanc and Prunier caviar.
For special occasions, Shihab also recommends Thai-inspired restaurant Manão on Al Wasl Road in Jumeirah, created by acclaimed chefs Mohamad Orfali and Abhiraj Khatwani, where dishes include fermented rice custard with grilled lobster tail and coriander flowers.
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It’s hard to beat Atlantis, The Palm for sheer family-friendly variety. You’ll find all you need, from the vast Aquaventure Waterpark to the Atlantis Explorers Club, with the added bonus of golden beaches. The dining options range from the relaxed to starry celebrity chef spots.
I’m not the least bit surprised by Dubai’s rise in popularity. Like Michelangelo’s David, the emirate has been lovingly carved into a masterpiece that embodies values held dear by most travellers. Safety is a key factor, particularly for the luxury explorer, with Dubai ranking in this year’s top five safest cities in the world, according to Numbeo, the world’s largest cost-of-living database.
There are few places in the world where you’ll feel as comfortable: here, you can stroll around in limited edition designer high-tops with a pricey timepiece on your wrist without any cause for concern, and I leave my mobile phone and laptop on the table when I pop to the powder room of a Dubai eatery. No wonder café culture is blooming here.
Another spot that she approved of can be found just steps from the luxury hotel. Located on Marsa Al Arab Walk, Feels kiosk is where the designer goes for acai smoothies. “They’re so revitalising,” Al Bastaki says.
Another Dubai tastemaker, Omar Shihab – founder and chief sustainability officer of modern Spanish, Michelin-Green-Starred Boca, ranking at No 17 on the trusted Middle East and North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2024 – is also a fan of dining in arty Al Quoz.
He says: “The weekly farmer’s market in Dubai, now at Alserkal Avenue, has become a Saturday ritual for my family. We browse fresh produce and then enjoy a Mexican breakfast at Lila Molino. Their exceptional coffee and warm hospitality make it a standout breakfast spot.”
“When I think of breakfast, I also can’t help but think of Palestinian foul medammas at Mama’esh in The Meadows Village mall in Springs 1, or the komplet egg at 21grams Urban Balkan Bistro in Meyan Mall in Umm Suqeim 2,” muses Shihab.
The 21grams signature dish of komplet egg has earned legendary status among Dubai’s foodies. Comprising a sunny-side-up egg served with cheese, butter, sour cream and beef jus in the hollow of homemade bread, it inspires a chorus of appreciative groans during breakfast seatings.
Culinary diversity
“Trèsind Studio at St Regis Gardens on Palm Jumeirah offers an exceptional dining experience,” he adds. Run by chef Himanshu Saini, often considered Dubai’s greatest homegrown culinary talent, Trèsind Studio is one of only four restaurants in the city to achieve two Michelin stars, sharing the honour with Stay by Yannick Alléno, Jason Atherton’s Row on 45 at Dubai’s Marina’s Grosvenor House hotel and Il Ristorante-Niko Romito at Bulgari Dubai on Jumeira Bay Island.
Saini’s kebab scarpetta, succulent lamb in decadent gravy designed to be mopped up with sourdough toast, makes me want to lick my plate clean, even in his fancy tableclothed establishment. Thankfully, white-gloved restaurant manager Vipin Panwar – a legend in his own right – promises to look away in the event of any break with etiquette.
Shihab admits he’s also rather partial to the “outstanding Grecian food and hospitality” at Mythos Urban Greek Eatery in City Walk. As a regular at the Jumeirah Lake Towers branch, I can vouch for the grilled octopus served with fava beans, tomato paste and tangy caper chutney; though I’m equally partial to Boca’s crisped octopus with its adobo marinade and octopus crackling.
Ahead of thermostats rising, spring is one of Dubai’s most active seasons, with occupants passionately embracing the outdoors while they still can. I’m thrilled to report that a childhood passion of mine is seeing a marked revival, with people taking to Dubai’s lengthy boardwalks and promenades on roller skates, a movement in part spearheaded by Emirati-born roller-skating fanatic Alia Al Banna.
Mother of four and founder of roller-skating disco RollDXB in Port Rashid, Al Banna is adept at show jumping, fencing, shooting and motocross, but it’s on little wheels where she has the most fun.
“My childhood was spent roller skating around Dubai’s neighbourhoods,” she explains. “In 2021, I launched RollDxb with my sister Reem. It is the region’s first and only indoor roller-skating disco venue, which was an instant success.”
When she’s not skating, Al Banna allots spare time to enjoying another concept that’s currently booming in Dubai: the beach club. British sun worshippers craving sand between their toes might head to South-east Asia or the Caribbean during spring, but just seven hours from the UK, Dubai has all the beach facilities you could ever need.
Her preferred beach club is the brand-new Sirene by Gaia, part of a just-opened development called J1, comprising a whole row of beach clubs. With more than 10 to choose between on the strip, each club has to work hard to differentiate itself. Sirene is excelling with Aegean-inspired landscaping, a temperature-controlled pool, a private beach with rows of pretty tasselled parasols, luxury cabanas for hire, healthy Mediterranean cuisine and fashionable table attendants.
Sirene’s resident DJ turns up the volume on the stroke of 4pm; arrive early for quiet escapism and stay late to party – doors don’t close until around 1am. Basking in the glow of 30C heat by day, blissfully pleasant spring evenings settle at a balmy 20C, which also makes them ideal for rooftop bar-hopping.
Spring pursuits
There are some misconceptions around visiting Dubai during Ramadan, which is predicted to fall from 27 February to 29 March, coinciding with the start of spring. A month characterised by fasting, reflection and giving back to the community, holidaymakers may worry their pursuits will be curtailed – but this is not the case; bars and restaurants are open as usual. Furthermore, everyone is invited to Iftar, the meal that breaks the daily fast.
As you might imagine, breaking the fast at sunset is a joyous occasion. Loved ones gather to relieve their hunger, renew their gratitude for life’s rewards and rejoice together. While most hotels and restaurants host traditional Iftars, giving visitors a chance to explore slow-cooked lamb ouzi served on a bed of fragrant rice, and knafeh, a cheese-filled, syrup-soaked pastry, others offer contemporary adaptations, typically at more affordable rates than their usual menus.
For example, the upscale Beefbar, overlooking the Turtle Lagoon at Jumeirah Al Naseem hotel, offers a four-course Iftar menu between sunset and 8pm for just AED280 (£62) per person, featuring Kobe beef gyozas, Angus ravioli, steak frites, sea bass and robata chicken, and a range of desserts washed down with its Tamarindi mocktail, made with tamarind, apple, lemon, ginger and cardamom.
Ramadan is also the perfect time to explore Dubai’s heritage as the heavy wooden doors of cultural institutes are wide open to visitors keen to know more about Emirati customs.
Lose yourself in the winding sikka (alleys) of Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood and discover the history of Arabian coffee ceremonies at the adorably quaint Dubai Coffee Museum or meander into the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding, where Emiratis issue a warm welcome and invite questions about their history and customs. Pull up a cushion on the floor and settle in to learn the story of Dubai.
Beyond the misconceptions and often hidden between the superlatives boasting the biggest and best of so many things, Dubai is a destination built on cultural diversity, where record-breaking skyscrapers are not just monuments to ambition but also to possibility. What better time to embrace its spirit of transformation than in spring.
Ramadan
Reality versus misconception
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Produced by: Telegraph Media Group Project manager: Alex Rose | Writers: Sarah Hedley Hymers and Sarah Gordon | Commissioning editors: Jasmin Nahar and Georgina Hardy | Sub-editors: Tim Cumming and Neil Queen-Jones | Video and photography manager: Alex Kelly | Picture editor: Cat Costelloe | Designer: Sylvia Szekely | Web editor: James Nash | Images: Getty
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Sarah Hedley Hymers
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The sheer abundance of incredible hotels in Dubai means every kind of traveller will be spoilt for choice when choosing where to stay. Each area of the city offers something special, says Sarah Gordon, from the tranquil oasis of the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve to the high-end glamour of Palm Jumeirah.
Arrive in style by flying with Emirates
Award-winning Emirates has flights to Dubai from eight UK airports: Gatwick, Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham, Manchester, Newcastle, Edinburgh and Glasgow. With comfortable cabins and only a four-hour time difference between the UK and Dubai, you’ll arrive refreshed. Economy passengers can settle in to enjoy the acclaimed food and entertainment (there are 6,500 channels).
Premium Economy guests can recline further thanks to the extendable leg rests. And Business-Class passengers can snooze in lie-flat comfort and stretch their legs in the onboard lounge. All while Emirates’ cabin crew give you a taste of the warm hospitality you’ll experience in Dubai.
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