RORY BEST
My favourite 18 golf holes on the island of Ireland
One of the most capped rugby players of all time, Rory Best played 124 times for Ireland and toured with the British and Irish Lions in 2013 and 2017. He hung up his boots in 2019 but keeps himself physically fit thanks to his passion for golf. Here, he takes us through his favourite 18 holes on the island of Ireland and offers up a few tips on what to do off the course too.
1
Ardglass, Co Down
1st, 355 yards, Par 4
Once you stand on the first tee at Ardglass, you quickly realise it's one of the most spectacular holes in Northern Ireland. With the old fort and clubhouse behind you, it's an unbelievable tee shot on a windy day, especially when you get tucked right back onto the back tees. If you decide to take the scenic drive through the Mourne Mountains after you’ve played Ardglass, I recommend heading to one of my favourite places for a steak: the Downshire Arms in Banbridge. It’s out of this world. And if you’re in Banbridge, then you are not too far from Titanic Belfast where you can learn about the incredible story of Titanic’s creation to its desperately sad end through amazing interactive exhibits.
Rory on the tee at Ardglass | Credit: Catherine Falls
(left to right) Aerial view of Ardglass; view of Strangford Lough from the course; the nearby Mourne Mountains | Credit: Tourism Northern Ireland
2
Royal County Down, Co Down
4th, 229 yards, Par 3
This hole is spectacular because you're overlooking the entire course. On a clear day, you can see Slieve Donard in the distance. You want to play short of the green on most holes at Royal County Down to avoid the deep bunkers, but you can’t here. There are bunkers nestled around the front that are impossible to get out of. If you miss the green slightly left, you're in a hollow; if you push it right and you’re lucky to miss a bunker, you’re down in another hollow. Push it even further right, and you’ll be up on the side of a steep hill. But if you get a good one away and make the green, there’s no greater satisfaction. Newcastle is also fantastic for food. There are so many great spots in town, but Brunel’s Restaurant on the Downs Road has to be right up there with the best in the country. It’s just the total culinary experience.
The glorious Royal County Down, Rory’s home course
(left to right) The nearby Slieve Donard hotel; enjoy some fine dining at Brunel’s on the Downs road | Credit: Marine & Laown
3
Royal County Down, Co Down
15th, 468 yards, Par 4
Apologies for there being two selections from Royal County Down but it’s my club and I love it! And the 15th is one of my favourites there because you have to be so tactical with it. Hitting driver is not always the best option depending on where the wind is coming from and what tee you are playing from. The fairway falls away into a dip, and you can’t make four from there. And if you’re too far right, you end up in a chasm of no return. Too far left and you’re in gorse or blocked out. Even finding the right half of the fairway leaves you a tricky 200 yards for your second shot. The hole asks so many questions. And if, after your round, you haven’t got time for a full-on feed, The Hatch on Main Street in Newcastle is just amazing for street food, burgers or fish and chips.
Royal County Down
Rory always feels at home when he is on the golf course | Credit: Catherine Falls
Striking a pose at Royal Portrush, home of the 2025 Open | Credit: Catherine Falls
4
Royal Portrush, Co Antrim
Inside the fantastic Harbour Bar at Portrush | Credit: Tourism Northern Ireland
It’s such a fantastic tee shot when you are on that elevated tee. It’s a longish carry over the mounds to the right of the white stone, and if you are like me, you will be trying to smash it a mile down there to leave a short second. It is absolutely stunning, and if you are lucky to play it on a sunny day, it’s one of the nicest holes in Northern Ireland. It’s also quite playable. Just make sure you don’t overshoot the green, and go out of bounds on White Rocks Beach. A visit to Royal Portrush is also a great chance to go and see the Giant’s Causeway, which is one of my favourite places to visit in Northern Ireland. A pint of Guinness in the Harbour Bar is a must. The Game of Thrones Studio Tour in Banbridge is about an hour’s drive from Portrush, where you can walk through the original sets and immerse yourself in the GOT world.
5th, 382 yards, Par 4
The spectacular Giant’s Causeway | Credit: Kyle Brickley
The Game of Thrones®, Studio Tour | Credit: Game of Thrones Studio Tour
5
Portstewart, Co Antrim
1st, 422 yards, Par 4
This must be up there as the best opening hole in Northern Ireland. Again, you play from a spectacular, elevated tee and the view is fantastic, with the whole links below you and Portstewart Strand down to your right. The sand dunes at Portstewart are so high, you can’t see many other holes. But from the first tee you have a fantastic panoramic view of one of the most rugged links in Ireland. It’s a tricky tee shot because you can catch a couple of bunkers if you go too far left. And if you get greedy and go too far right, you can’t make the carry over the corner. If you don't have a really early tee time, Awaken on Portstewart promenade is a great place to have breakfast and somewhere we love to go as a family. It's just a great place to take in the sights and relax. Just a short drive from Portstewart and Portrush is the iconic Bushmills Distillery, the world's oldest licensed whiskey producer. Here you can experience guided tours, learn about traditional distilling and enjoy premium whiskey tastings. It’s not to be missed.
Setting off for a round at Portstewart on what is arguably the finest opening hole in Ireland | Credit: Portstewart Golf Club Jody Crosbie
The stunning Portstewart setting
Taking on Devenish Drop at Lough Erne | Credit: Lough Erne Resort
6
Lough Erne, Co Fermanagh
A delightful dish at MacNeans | Credit: MacNean House & Restaurant
Activity on the water by Devenish Island | Credit: Chris Hill Tourism Ireland
The beautiful Lough Erne at dusk
This one is called Devenish Drop, and you will see why when you are there. It’s another elevated tee with views from Northern Ireland over Devenish Island and while it looks driveable from the back tee, that’s only for Rory McIlroy. If you go for a big drive off one of the forward tees, you are bringing the water into play. It’s just so enticing to stand up there and give the ball a lash. It's also a great excuse to go to MacNean House & Restaurant in Blacklion where Nevin Maguire has a restaurant. It’s just a lovely, wholesome setting and the food will blow you away.
7th, 389 yards, Par 4
7
County Sligo, Co Sligo
17th, 470 yards , Par 4
I love a tactical challenge and this is a hole where you have to use your head. If the wind is really blowing into your face, it can be almost impossible to make four because you are playing uphill to a plateau green set in a giant amphitheatre. You can’t just bang it up the middle and bang it up the green because you have to be in the right spot. Rosses Point is spectacularly beautiful and has many great food and drink options. The Driftwood in the village is fantastic for great seafood. But if you fancy a pint, Austies is an institution and excellent for chowder or fish and chips. For culture, there’s Lissadell House just down the road and Drumcliff Churchyard, where the great poet WB Yeats is buried.
A friendly two-ball at Co Sligo | Credit: Failte Ireland
You can also stay the night at The Driftwood
Visit the final resting place of W.B.Yeats | Credit: Lukasz Warzecha
Explore the house and gardens of Lissadell House | Credit: Peter McCabe
Nairn and Portnoo, one of the most scenic links locations in Donegal | Credit: Narin and Portnoo
8
Nairn and Portnoo, Co Donegal
Climbing the Slieve League cliffs | Credit: Tourism Ireland
Family fun at Glenveagh | Credit: Failte Ireland
An aerial view of the National Park | Credit: Gareth Wray Photography
Here you are in one of the most scenic links locations in Donegal, right at the back corner of the course. Once you play the hole, you will walk off that green and say, ‘What on earth have I just played?’ The tee box is set right back at the ocean, but it is almost driveable from one of the forward tees, because it plays downhill. It’s just stunning. I've been going to Narin and Portnoo since I was born, because my grandfather bought a house there when Donegal was less popular a destination than it is now. It’s a world-class course now, especially since Gil Hanse and Jim Wagner renovated it a few years ago, making it a remarkable course. The area is stunning and there’s loads to see and do. Head north for Glenveagh National Park or south to the Slieve League cliffs, which are just spectacular.
9th, 399 yards, Par 4
9
County Louth, Co Louth
14th, 332 yards, Par 4
I love Baltray. It’s one of those classic links courses between Dublin and where I live in Armagh and the 14th is one of the best holes you will find anywhere. It’s a risk-reward, short par-four where the tee shot is elevated and you can have a cut at the green if the wind is favourable. If you decide to lay up, you have a very tricky second to an upturned saucer green with lots of subtle humps and hollows and run-offs. It’s not a long hole, but you can still struggle to make a five. The food in the clubhouse is always great – steaks like manhole covers, Boyne salmon — but if you go into Drogheda, Scholars Townhouse Hotel has a fantastic gastrolounge. And you’re just up the road from the Neolithic passage tombs at Newgrange, which is one of the wonders of the world and even older than the pyramids.
The risk-reward 14th at Baltray | Credit: Airswing Media
The undulations of Co Louth from an aerial perspective | Credit: Airswing Media
Visit the Neolithic tombs at Newgrange | Credit: Failte Ireland
The signature 15th at Portmarnock | Credit: Adam Toth
10
Portmarnock, Co Dublin
The 15th at Portmarnock is the signature hole and one of the great par threes in golf. It’s around 200 yards from the back tee, and with the beach on the right, bunkers short, and the Valley of Sin to the left, it’s one of the most challenging. I’ve been left so many times and I’ve still to find a way to get it close from there. But it’s just such an attractive hole. One of the best in world golf. For a post-round bite, check out O’Dwyer’s Golf Links Inn in the village just before you turn off for the club.
15th, 204 yards, Par 3
Velvet Strand, Portmarnock | Credit: Fionn McCann
11
Druids Glen, Co Wicklow
4th, 442 yards, Par 4
There are more iconic holes in Druids Glen, but the new fourth is probably one of the best new features since this Pat Ruddy and Tom Craddock classic was revamped by Peter McEvoy a few years ago. You get your drive away and it’s just a wonderfully enticing second to a green protected all around the right and the back by a lake. The hole is intimidating and inspiring at the same time. Wicklow is a great place to visit and there’s so much to see and do apart from the golf. The ‘Beyond the Trees’ treetop walk at Avondale House and Forest Park is one of the great new attractions. It’s a 1.4km raised walkway that wends its way up and down through the trees, and it’s great for families with children’s play areas and the chance to learn about the trees, plants, birds, and animals you see along the way.
The brilliant new 4th hole at Druids Glen | Credit: Druids Glen
The Avondale Treetop Walk is a great family experience | Credit: Michelle Crowley; Coillte; Bryan Brophy
The short 8th at Rosapenna | Credit: Rosapenna Golf Resort
12
Rosapenna (St Patrick’s), Co Donegal
I played Rosapenna last summer with a group of ex-Irish rugby internationals and it was Andrew Trimble and me against Brian O'Driscoll and Rob Kearney. In our rugby lives, we were used to getting thumped by those Leinster men, but we beat them that day and I especially remember the 8th. It’s a short, risk-reward, left-to-right par four with great views of Tramore beach. You can go for the green, but there’s a hill just short you have to get over, so a lay-up is probably wise. If you go for it and lose it right you are in a world of trouble. Of course, Brian and Rob went right and were never seen again, which was good for Andrew and me. Make sure you’re putting well because the greens are fantastic but challenging. After the golf, there are a few great watering holes for a post-round pint. The Olde Glen Bar in Carrigart is one of the oldest in Donegal, and it has a great restaurant with fresh fish — Killybegs mackerel, roast Mulroy Bay scallops, Burtonport crab, and lots more. If you just fancy a drink and a natter, the Harbour Bar in Downings is great for Guinness.
8th, 339 yards, Par 4
Tramore Beach is just a stone’s throw from Rosapenna | Credit: Tourism Ireland Failte Ireland
There are some wonderful walks to be had near Rosapenna | Credit: Tourism Ireland Failte Ireland; Rosapenna Golf Resort
13
The K Club, Co Kildare
7th, 596 yards, Par 5
It’s the hole where Darren Clarke was hugged by Tiger Woods in that 2006 Ryder Cup match, but more recently, we all remember Rory McIlroy ripping a 273-yard three-wood over the River Liffey onto the green and going on to win the Irish Open in 2016. It is played as the 16th hole in those competitions but it is usually the 7th hole for visitors. If the tees are up, you can think about having a rip at the green yourself. It’s a hole that just brings home how good these guys are. It’s just a great hole and Kildare is a beautiful county to visit. The Irish National Stud and Gardens is a special place for families. There are guided tours that teach you all about the great Irish racehorses, and there are Japanese Gardens nearby. The Curragh Racecourse is another excellent day out.
The K Club has witnessed some wonderful golfing feats | Credit: Tourism Ireland
The Irish National Stud is well worth visiting if you are in the area | Credit: Darren Tindale The Image is Everything; Irish National Stud and Gardens
The 11th at Mount Juliet holds fond memories for Rory | Credit: Mike Hyde at Carefree Golf Photography
14
Mount Juliet, Co Kilkenny
This one has special memories for me. It’s a beautiful par-three over a valley, and it’s where I played the Irish Open Pro-Am with my son Ben, who was 12 then. My partners were Joe Canning and Andy Reid, who asked Ben to have a go. And he stood up in front of the big gallery, using my clubs, and hit an eight-iron into the middle of the green. It was a moment of fatherly pride, I have to admit. There’s lots to do nearby, including an immersive tour of Smithwick’s Experience on Kilkenny’s ‘medieval mile’ which celebrates Ireland’s oldest ale, brewed here since 1710. If you’re just looking for a bite to eat, Tim’s Bar And Kitchen in Thomastown is ideal.
11th, 169 yards, Par 3
Visit the Smithwick’s Experience at Kilkenny which celebrates Ireland’s oldest ale | Credit: Smithwick’s Experience; Diageo
15
Adare Manor, Co Limerick
9th, 568 yards, Par 5
It measures more than 600 yards from the very back, but when you stand on the tee box and look down that hole with the manor in the background, it’s immaculate. It’s long and straight but then it gets really interesting around the green. You must land it on a small tabletop to get it to stay on the putting surface. The setting is magnificent, with the manor and the walled garden, and it’s all perfectly manicured. The resort is fantastic for food and drink — it’s one of the best in the world — but Adare itself is one of the prettiest villages in Ireland, with its thatched houses and all the bars and restaurants. A visit to 1826 Adare is just an excellent way to treat yourself to a nice meal, and it’s award-winning for a reason. There are also many local attractions, such as King John’s Castle on King’s Island in the heart of Limerick, a 20-minute drive from Adare.
The glorious Adare Manor, home of the 2027 Ryder Cup | Credit: Tourism Ireland
The manicured lawns of Adare Manor | Credit: Tourism Ireland
Nearby King John Castle | Credit: Michelle Crowley
Restaurant 1826 | Credit: Failte Ireland
Hints of Augusta at the Carton House 15th | Credit: Carton House Golf
16
Carton House (O’Meara), Co Kildare
The stretch from the 14th to the 16th on the O’Meara Course at Carton House always reminds me of Augusta National’s Amen Corner and the 15th has happy memories for me. The Irish team was based at the resort during the 2011 World Cup, and we used to go out and play a few holes in the evening. I had only played a few great courses at that stage, and it always reminds me of Augusta National, which has water everywhere. This one is a par-five along Rye Water and if you avoid the bunkers and hit a big drive, you can have a go at the green on the far bank or lay up and then pitch across. It’s just a special part of the course and a beautiful par-five, and Maynooth is a vibrant university town so there are lots of places to eat and drink. If you’re staying at the resort, you can easily walk into town and Avenue Café and Restaurant was one of our favourite haunts when the rugby team was in camp there. We’d walk down the avenue from the resort and tuck into a steak or some fresh salmon. The ancient wonders of prehistoric Newgrange are a 50-minute drive away, and the Howth peninsula, with its pretty fishing village and medieval castle, is just a half-hour drive from Maynooth.
15th, 557 yards, Par 5
There are some wonderful dishes to be sampled at Avenue Cafe and Restaurant | Credit: Avenue Cafe and Restaurant
Newgrange is just a short drive away | Credit: Brenda Harris
The lawn at Howth Castle | Credit: Peter Evers
17
Lahinch, Co Clare
4th, 475 yards, Par 5
The Klondyke is part of the history of golf and I’ve picked it because it’s just so different. It’s a short par-five where you hit your tee shot, which is often downwind, through a narrow valley, and then you have to hit your second over a massive dune, just the way it was when the hole was designed by Old Tom Morris. There’s a man at the top of the hill with a red and a green flag telling you when the green is free, and when you play it for the first time, you’re trusting a caddy or the guy you’re playing with to hit over the right spot because it’s totally blind. Lahinch is also fantastic for places to eat and drink, of course, so The 19th is an institution and Kenny’s is also great. Further afield there's Joe McHugh’s in Liscannor with the Cliffs of Moher nearby.
The glorious Adare Manor, home of the 2027 Ryder Cup | Credit: Tourism Ireland
The cliffs of Moher | Credit: Clare County Council
Lahinch seafront | Credit: Stephen Duffy
Goats playing in Lahinch | Credit: Steve Carr
The extraordinary 12th at Old Head | Credit: Old Head Golf Links
18
Old Head of Kinsale, Co Cork
Playing Old Head is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The course is on a headland that extends a couple of miles in the Atlantic, but it’s not just the ocean you are thinking about at the 12th, but the 300-foot sheer drop off the cliffs that run down the left side from tee to green. That’s all you see up the left-hand side, and even if you get your drive away, the lay-up is no joke. The first time I played it, I had to phone the clubhouse for more balls after five or six holes. I really enjoyed it when we got to the back nine. But the 12th – what a hole! It has to be one of the most spectacular holes on the planet, never mind Ireland. Kinsale is a gourmet’s delight. You can take the Kinsale Food Tour and sample lots of local fare, or you can check out places like Bastion, which has a Michelin star; Man Friday, which is spectacular; or Fishy Fishy, which you've probably guessed specialises in fish, all of it locally sourced.
12th, 564 yards, Par 5
The incredible Man Friday and Fishy Fishy restaurants are well worth a visit for some wonderful dishes | Credit: Man Friday; Bastion
Ireland, the home of golfing greatness where there is always a warm welcome on and off the course
ireland.com/golf
Advertiser content for
Produced by Telegraph Media Group Rory Best was interviewed by Brian Keogh | Project manager: Tom Gadd | Commissioning editor: Jim Bruce-Ball | Sub-editor: Tim Cumming | Picture editor: Alex Kelly | Designer: Kate Degel | Web editor: Katherine Scott
14