VisitDenmark

By Caroline Sølver

The everyday wonders of

Copenhagen

An insider’s guide to the Danish capital’s best neighbourhoods – by a local with her finger on the pulse of the city’s diverse delights

With around 800,000 inhabitants, Copenhagen is a small capital, but there are plenty of eclectic neighbourhoods to explore. Here you can embrace a brand new district known for its modern architectural take on sustainable living or take in the classics in the capital’s central district – from its 400-year-old cobblestone streets to the royal palace of Amalienborg. Whether you’re looking for hidden gems, the best stores, nightlife, the top restaurants and bakeries or architectural delights, there’s a neighbourhood in Copenhagen with your name on it.

Nørrebro — the melting pot of the city

Vibrant and colourful Nørrebro in the north of the city is the most ethnically diverse neighbourhood in Copenhagen. This brings a strong sense of community to the area and turns it into a true melting pot, consisting of restaurants with cuisines from all over the world. Eating and drinking options abound with a rich diversity of restaurants and late-night bars. Take Topicàl restaurant for example. This year’s star newcomer, on Jægersborggade, conjures organic-vegetable-focused ‘casual gourmet’ dishes with Italian flair by chef Davide Laudato. There are endless shopping opportunities in Nørrebro, ranging from independent boutiques to high-end designer stores, as well as characterful vintage shops and markets.

At the end of the cemetery, Jægersborggade – dubbed the hippest street in Nørrebro – is the ultimate place for grub and retail therapy. Try the newly opened Psyche Café for fancy filter coffee and fluffy scrambled eggs. Enjoy Copenhagen’s best coffee at Coffee Collective, and visit little independent shops such as Honning, a store that sells everything related to honey. Elmegade is another street to visit in Nørrebro, which, similarly to Jægersborggade, offers great shopping and cute cafes.

Nordhavn — a playground for architecture lovers

In 2013, a new neighbourhood was conceived in Copenhagen. It got its own brand new zip code and comprised the largest construction job in Denmark. In the ensuing years, Nordhavn continues to develop, abuzz with new residents, shops and restaurants. Thanks to its location by the water, and great swimming options all year around, Nordhavn attracts visitors from all over the city, as well as city-dwellers from all over the world that come to see what a fully modern neighbourhood can, and perhaps should, look like. At Konditaget Lüders, the roof of a multi-storey car park on the harbourfront at Nordhavn provides an ‘alternative urban space’ for a gym and a playground. You can work out and play while admiring views of the city and the harbour from 24m up. Open daily from 7am to 10pm, the roof offers several types of training, including Crossfit, TRX training, box jumps, Panna football, a 60m sprint, trampolines, swings and a climbing spiral. Copenhagen’s status as Unesco World Capital of Architecture until 2026 is certainly, in part, thanks to the unique architecture and sustainable urban development on show in Nordhavn.

A highlight of the development is the rooftop of Lüders, where a public outdoor gym allows visitors to get their fit on while taking in the pristine views of Øresund ocean.

The Sandkaj Harbour Bath invites you to take a plunge in the ocean, something that Danes do all year around. On sunny days, you can see all the way to Sweden. And for architecture buffs The Portland Towers is a must-visit. Besides architecture, Nordhavn has several interesting restaurants and stores. Have dinner and drinks on the 17th floor of Silo. Enjoy coffee and Danish-style breakfast from Original Coffee. Go shopping (or spend the night) at the Audo.

Vesterbro — a former working-class neighbourhood, turned hip with a sprawling night life

Once a working class and gritty area, Vesterbro has been reinvented and is now one of Copenhagen’s most attractive, lively neighbourhoods, with a sprawling nightlife. Much of the nightlife is focused within the former meatpacking district (Kødbyen) with clubs Jolene and Baggen well worth a visit. Here, you will also find a multitude of fantastic restaurants, from sourdough pizza at Mother to American fare and beer at Warpigs and tacos at Hija de Sanchez. Next to Kødbyen are two main streets: Sønder Boulevard and Istedgade. The former is a wide boulevard with a stretch of green running along the street, and a popular hangout spot for locals. Here you will also find Absalon, Vesterbro’s shared social space inside a former church turned non-profit community space, café and restaurant. Next door is Kihoskh, a general store with a lovely selection of handpicked books, goods, coffee, bread and pastries. Parallel to Sønder Boulevard is Istedgade, which comes with authentic Vesterbro vibes, a red light district as well as one of Copenhagen’s trendiest streets, with stores such as Kyoto, Girlie Hurly and Rude. Close by, Coco Hotel is a great place for a long weekend in the Danish capital. If you are a literature lover and want to know more about Vesterbro’s past as a working class neighbourhood, it is described perfectly in Tove Ditlevsen’s 'Copenhagen Trilogy' about her upbringing here. Vesterbro is a heartening example of the equality present in Denmark, as space is made for people from all walks of life. In Kødbyen, the world’s largest Drug Consumption Room allows drug users to consume in a supervised safe space. Residents are happy with this solution, as the Room ultimately makes the streets safe, helps those in need and illustrates how Copenhagen takes care of issues that are prevalent in most capitals.

Fanciness, fashion and French feelings in Frederiksberg

Frederiksberg is Copenhagen’s version of London’s Kensington. With grand tree-lined boulevards inspired by Paris (Frederiksberg Allé) and spruced up with villas, some of which resemble mini versions of castles, this is the place to live with some of Copenhagen’s highest real estate prices. But, multi-millionaire or not, Frederiksberg has plenty to offer. Frederiksberg borders Vesterbro and where the two meet you’ll find some of the best shopping and restaurants in the city. Værnedamsvej, also known as ‘Mini Paris’ is a charming street with locals biking through all day, flower shops that colourfully spill out onto the pavement, an abundance of fashion and interior stores as well as cute cafes and restaurants. Make sure you visit Wood Wood and Shop Dora for decorative home knick-knacks. Visit Thiemers Magasin, a tiny book store and café for a great literature selection. Stop by Italo Caffé or Rist for coffee. And have lunch at Granola or Les Trois Cochons, two restaurants that could easily have been plucked straight from a Parisian street. Turn the corner and head to Gammel Kongevej, a larger street that serves that Danish fashion kick; Ganni, I Blame Lulu, Enamel, Pico, Nué, and the list goes on. The main attraction, arguably, is Frederiksberg Gardens, conceived by King Frederik VI. These pristine gardens are a joy to behold, whatever the season. On the hilltop, a yellow palace overlooks Copenhagen, and there are quaint paths to stroll and canals where visitors can row boats. The Chinese tea house and a rose garden are also worth exploring, and at the northernmost part of the garden, believe it or not, there are elephants… in a zoo rather than roaming around.

Hipster hangout at the former shipyard — Refshaleøen

Part of the central district of Copenhagen, Christianshavn is the Amsterdam of Copenhagen. The neighbourhood sits across several man-made islands connected by canals and bridges that were built by the influential Danish King Christian IV in the early 1600s. Christianshavn is known for its canals where colourful, fairytale-like houses sit side by side. Christianshavn is a good place to stay if you want to base yourself centrally while also feeling like you’re living among locals. NH Collection recently opened a gorgeous five star hotel with sustainable features, such as using sea water to cool the hotel. Another great stay is Kanalhuset, a boutique hotel with 12 rooms and 14 apartments, each decorated differently in a beautiful, distinct way.

Every evening, Kanalhuset hosts communal dining, connecting locals with tourists in a ‘hygge’ setting.

North of Christianshavn, this former shipyard is developing into a cultural haven and favourite hangout spot for young, creative Danes. More and more people are moving here to live in unique circumstances such as on the wonderful houseboats or in creative student housing in shipping containers built by Bjarke Ingels Group. It is generally more lively here in the summer, with the street food market, Reffen, which is worth a visit.

However, Danes and travellers visit year-round to hang out at La Banchina, where you can take a plunge in the ocean and then warm up in the sauna, go on to dine at Noma, Alchemist or Amass or have delicious baked goods and lunch at Lille Bakery.

Copenhagen’s newest old neighbourhood, Carlsberg Byen

Carlsberg Byen is probably the oldest new area in town. Between 1847 and 2008, this cobbled quarter between lively Vesterbro and suburban Valby was the home of the Carlsberg brand, and today, it’s been consciously redeveloped to include some of the city’s hippest shops and eateries. The area’s most famous landmark is the Elephant Tower, a quartet of carved granite elephants that carry a tower on their backs. When it was built in 1901, it marked the entrance to the site from the city, marking it out as a grand and important part of the city, on a par with the squares in Rome that inspired it. Other architectural treats to spot include the Chalk Tower, an ornate lighthouse-like structure that today houses the Von Bartha modern art gallery.

Amid the historical buildings, you’ll find new squares and some of the best shops and restaurants in the city, all hand-picked to create the right atmosphere. Discover a stylish dose of caffeine at Coffee Collective, world-class burgers at Gasoline Grill, hipster pastries from Københavns Bageri, a bakery that draws on the bakers from popular spots Benji and Alice, and the best of Copenhagen’s fashion scene via a dazzling Henrik Vibskov boutique.

Modern Nordic food comes from Beyla and Studio; world food is also on the menu with some of the city’s best sourdough pizzas at Surt and ramen noodles at Kona & Slurp. Minimalist-chic Hotel Otillia provides a sleek bed for the night, and has a stylish bar for late-night cocktails too. When you’re done with eating, there’s more to explore. Aire Ancient Baths blends history and modernity in its underground spa, lit by candles, in a building dating back to 1881. Just up the hill from Carlsberg Byen, another magical underground world awaits in the former water reservoirs beneath Søndermarken park. This is Cisternerne, the city’s experimental and experiential art gallery where artists including Kimsooja and Tomas Saraceno have created their own worlds in the echoing, stalactite-decorated spaces. This December, development in Carlsberg Byen comes full circle as the long-awaited Home of Carlsberg attraction opens. After five years of modernisation, it will be possible to visit the storied home of Copenhagen’s famous beer, with interactive exhibitions and tales about its past, present and future. Discover secrets in the old cellars in J.C. Jacobsen’s first brewery, on the hill where it all started in 1847.

History and sights in Christianshavn

Start planning your adventure exploring the eclectic neighbourhoods of the spectacular city of Copenhagen

Designer: Victoria Griffiths, Picture Editor: Cat Costelloe, Commissioning Editor: Rupert Murray, Sub Editor: Tim Cumming, Project Manager: Jason Desir, Web Editor: Caroline Stacey, Words: Caroline Sølver

Telegraph Media Group

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Designer: Victoria Griffiths Picture Editor: Cat Costelloe Commissioning Editor: Rupert Murray Sub Editor: Tim Cumming Project Manager: Jason Desir Web Editor: Caroline Stacey Words: Caroline Sølver

Picture Credits: CPH City & Port Development Kontraframe, Lasse Fløde, Marc Skafte-Vaabengaard, Visit Copenhagen, Visit Denmark

Hija de Sanchez Cantina serves some of the city’s best Mexican tacos. Two minutes’ walk from Sandkaj Harbour bath, it is perfect for an informal lunch on a cool summer’s day. Head chef Rosio Sanchez is ex-dessert chef of the much-garlanded Noma, so quality is assured. Nearby, Moo Moo sells plant-based ice creams, as well as gluten-free, sugar-free and keto-friendly ice cream. Whether you have certain allergies, or are on a diet, or just want to do your bit to help save the planet by eating low-emission ice cream, Moo Moo delivers.

Beneath two glass pyramids in Søndermarken park near Frederiksberg Castle in Frederiksberg, the Cisterns, or Cisternerne, are Copenhagen’s former water reservoirs. Now the city’s most vibrant contemporary art space, artists are invited to create site-specific exhibitions – recent installations have included boat trips illuminated by hanging lanterns.

Housed in a 300-year-old mill in Christianshavn, Lola takes New Nordic Cuisine’s clean and healthy agenda and introduces elements from around the world, and skillfully adapts them, led by chef Kamilla Siedler and her kitchen collaborators (there is no brigade, as such). It is like a culinary odyssey through classic ingredients added to local seasonal dishes.

There are several must-dos in Nørrebro. Cross Dronning Louises Bro to discover a bridge that is a beloved hangout spot for sun-loving locals. The bridge connects the district to the iconic Copenhagen lakes, where you can go boating in a rented swan pedalo. Keep walking down Nørrebrogade, the main street, where kebab shops and bakeries are lined up next to each other, and grab a delicious bite. Try pastries at Benji, and at Rondo, which specialises in organic sourdough, croissants, pies, quiches and foccacias, or at the Collective Bakery founded by Noma alumni. Then stroll through Assistens Kirkegård, a cemetery where Hans Christian Andersen, among others, is buried. Despite being a cemetery it is a favoured hangout spot for Copenhageners.

After a bracing winter morning’s dip, you should do as the locals do and warm up at Copenhagen’s pre-eminent bakery/cafe in Nørrebro district. Just follow the roasting-coffee aroma to Andersen & Maillard for pastry chef Milton Abel’s sublime croissants; in summer, they come served with home-made soft-ice. Andersen & Maillard also has an Artisan Bakery on Antwerpengade 10 in Nordhavn.

Sushi Anaba takes the sushi wave that hit Copenhagen 10 years ago to new levels of authenticity. Having learnt to cut Edo-style sushi (fish, rice, soy and wasabi) in Japan, head chef Mads Battefeld stands behind a counter in mid-room and dazzles a few lucky sushi-lovers with exquisite Edomae sushi. The restaurant seats just eight guests at a time, at two sittings each evening.

Surrounded by lawns, flower beds and ancestral trees in Frederiksberg Gardens, restaurant Fasangården is in Christian V’s former pheasant hatchery. The present building, a royal residence dating from 1828, has been fully restored to exude timeless elegance both inside and out. Chef Andreas Ring Kjeldsholm Hansen, previously of Vollmers in Malmö, experiments with seasonal ingredients to produce honest, down-to-earth food with a modern twist. This is the perfect place for excellent food in an idyllic indoor or outdoor setting. A delightful spot in Frederiksberg Gardens, its walls painted with bucolic scenes, Mielcke & Hurtigkarl fills a charming 1744 orangery with a fire-lit terrace for canapes and champagne. Exquisite and innovative dishes from around the world, especially Asia, are set off with herbs from the gardens. The wine pairings are superb, led by José Santos the brilliant sommelier. For nearly two decades, Formel B has stood as an impressive and immovable feature on the Danish dining scene. It has successfully ridden, or withstood, wave upon wave of gastronomic fashions. A contemporary restaurant, it offers a unique and diverse menu in a relaxed setting. Its close collaboration with its Danish suppliers ensure that food lives up to the highest standards in sustainability and quality. The cellar caters to all tastes and budgets, from avant-garde natural wines to timeless classics, especially Burgundy.

More than 100 years old, Café Intime in Frederiksberg is still going strong. The cosy, richly atmospheric setting is reminiscent of something out of Berlin in the 1930s. It offers open cabaret nights, a pianist every evening, and jazz on Sundays. A warm, friendly place for liberated spirits. Between Frederiksberg and Vesterbro throbs the revamped Carlsberg City District, an area of shops, parks, cycle paths, historic architecture and a vibrant cultural scene. For 160 years this industrial site reverberated to the thundering of dray horses and the clatter of beer barrels; now, the Carlsberg City District is a place where people live, work and play. It is like a city in microcosm: every amenity and facility are no more than a few minutes’ walk from one another.

What began as a pop-up burger restaurant-bar from the people behind Noma restaurant, POPL has now become a Christianshavn fixture. The menu is simple: burgers with seasonal side dishes washed down with wines, beers and cocktails. Organic beef comes from the west coast of Denmark; vegan and vegetarian options are made in the Noma fermentation laboratory.

There are several must-dos in Nørrebro. Cross Dronning Louises Bro to discover a bridge that is a beloved hangout spot for sun-loving locals. The bridge connects the district to the iconic Copenhagen lakes, where you can go boating in a rented swan pedalo. Keep walking down Nørrebrogade, the main street, where kebab shops and bakeries are lined up next to each other, and grab a delicious bite. Try pastries at Benji, and at Rondo, which specialises in organic sourdough, croissants, pies, quiches and foccacias, [Andersen & Maillard] or at the Collective Bakery founded by Noma alumni. Then stroll through Assistens Kirkegård, a cemetery where Hans Christian Andersen, among others, is buried. Despite being a cemetery it is a favoured hangout spot for Copenhageners.

Between Frederiksberg and Vesterbro throbs the revamped Carlsberg City District, an area of shops, parks, cycle paths, historic architecture and a vibrant cultural scene. For 160 years this industrial site reverberated to the thundering of dray horses and the clatter of beer barrels; now, the Carlsberg City District is a place where people live, work and play. It is like a city in microcosm: every amenity and facility are no more than a few minutes’ walk from one another.