Arizona [CA - 2023]

high-end hospitality | elevated cuisine | local treasures | retail therapy

Arizona

In the imagination of those who’ve never been to Arizona, the state tends to look a lot like it did more than a century ago: naturally beautiful, of course, but still filled with the sorts of establishments that might have appealed to, say, Billy the Kid and Buffalo Bill. So here’s a little update: While you can still find plenty of remnants of rustic charm, Arizona is also a luxury holidaymaker’s paradise, filled with dazzling desert retreats, elevated global cuisine, unique local treasures—and serious retail therapy. Read on for just a taste of the bounty.

As befits a place known as the Valley of the Sun, the hospitality scene just keeps heating up in the Phoenix metro area. This November will bring one of the most anticipated openings: the Global Ambassador, the first Arizona property in the Preferred Hotels & Resorts’ Legend collection—no less than “the world’s most refined, sophisticated, and iconic independent hotels, resorts, and residences,” in the estimation of Preferred Hotels. Owned by the Tucson-raised restaurant magnate Sam Fox, who’s partnered on this project with local professional athletes and a musician, the Global Ambassador promises epic dining experiences (five signature restaurants, for starters), a sweeping yoga deck, among other wellness offerings, and meticulously appointed rooms and suites.

Meanwhile, existing favourites have been busy winning Travel + Leisure 2023 World’s Best Awards and upping their ante. The wonderfully remote, geothermal pool-centered Castle Hot Springs, for example, is adding a new series of three- and four-night wellness retreats. Continuing with the healing waters theme, the Sanctuary Camelback is expanding the already acclaimed onsite Watsu (that is, shiatsu massage performed in water) offerings. For its part, the beloved historic Hermosa Inn will be debuting a next-level garden upgrade this autumn. And the ode to midcentury glam that is Mountain Shadows will be debuting the Suburban Sunset photography exhibit at the onsite signature gallery.

Capital region

There’s something so innately rich about the famed red rocks of Northern Arizona, that even the poshest of local properties tend to take an understated approach, preferring to place the spotlight on the surroundings. That is, in fact, the guiding principle of the newest and most news-making resort in the area, Ambiente Sedona, a Landscape Hotel that aims to create the most scenic possible escape in a nature-focused, minimal-impact, innovatively-designed setting. Termed “atriums” rather than rooms, the guest lodgings are—as you might expect—largely made of glass, with floor-to-ceiling views of the surrounding red rocks and elegantly muted (but spare-no-amenity) interiors.

Northern Arizona

surprise and delight you

BACK TO THE TOP

As the first American UNESCO City of Gastronomy, Tucson continues to up the culinary ante. Since that initial recognition in 2015, the city has gone on to produce a steady stream of national award-winners and headline-makers, such as Barrio Bread, where Don Guerra uses local heritage grains to create some of the most memorable loaves in the US. You’ll want to stop by his shop in the morning, chat with locals in the queue (there will almost surely be a queue), then keep one of his masterpieces on hand for snacking as you make your way through the city’s neighbourhoods and desert trails.

Tucson

Another classic pairing of stunning views and cuisine? Christopher’s at Wrigley Mansion, whose eponymous chef has cooked for several US presidents, but—more impressively, some would say—Julia Child, who loved the Westholm Wagyu Filet. Regardless of what you order, however, you’ll also love the adjacent historic mansion, plus the desert-meets-cityscape out the windows. A third spot not to miss: Quiessence, set in a historic house at The Farm at South Mountain, where the lush agricultural scenery comes as a happy mid-desert surprise to the uninitiated (an ancient riverbed made for especially rich local soil here). Though the menus change as often as you’d expect at a seasonally-driven, sustainable restaurant, meals often begin with a chef’s spread of local cheese, cured meats, brick oven-baked artisan loaves, and seasonal jams.

Phoenix area

Though Arizona is justifiably known for exquisite street food—tacos, Indian fry breads, the shaved ice masterpieces known as raspados—the fine dining scene is no less notable, with particularly abundant options in the Phoenix area. For visitors looking to gorge on views as much as menu offerings, one of the best places to start is Kai at Wild Horse Pass, a celebration of indigenous heritage that sources locally but takes some inspiration globally as well. Set within the Gila River Indian Community against the Komatke Mountain Range, the state’s only Forbes Five Star and AAA Five Diamond restaurant pairs dramatic desert vistas with the likes of grilled tenderloin of bison with 60 day corn puree, oxtail and scarlet runner bean cassoulet, cholla bud, and saguaro blossom syrup.

With astro-treasures all its own, Tucson is home to the epic Mt. Lemmon SkyCenter, where the reservation-only, five-hour Sky Nights include an astronomy lecture, dinner and guided navigation of the sky. For stellar terrestrial pursuits, check out the city’s museums: Fresh off the acclaimed Linda McCartney Retrospective that focused in part on the photographer’s (and her husband Paul’s) nearly lifelong love affair with Tucson, the Center for Creative Photography is trading Beatlemania for a deep dive into the life of fabled photojournalist W. Eugene Smith, whose work and archival materials will be exhibited here until March 2, 2024.

Tucson

Just half a mile away sits the Phoenix Art Museum, where you should experience—at a minimum—You Who are Getting Obliterated in the Dancing Swarm of Fireflies. Known simply as Fireflies to fans, this Yayoi Kusama infinity mirror room is the museum’s “most beloved permanent installation,” and it just reopened after a months-long refresh. Another singular local treasure: the Musical Instrument Museum, home to everything from the world’s largest playable sax to all manner of live music (the Fall Concert Series takes place September 2-December 31, 2023). Meanwhile, no architecture fan should miss Scottsdale’s Taliesin West: Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter home and desert laboratory—now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and National Historic Landmark.

Phoenix

As one of the largest and fastest-growing metropolises in the US, Phoenix is home to a wealth of arts and culture icons. The Heard Museum, for starters, ranks among the finest and most extensive collections of Native American art, to say nothing of the iconic signature events. If you're looking at a winter trip, consider timing it to the World Championship Hoop Dance Contest (February 17-18, 2024) or Heard Museum Guild Indian Fair + Market (March 2-3, 2024). But whenever you visit, you’ll find stellar exhibits—in some cases, literally: The celebrated new permanent exhibit, Substance of Stars, includes Indigenous storytelling about the creation of constellations, for example, under a 360-degree Skydome.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.

Headline holder

The suggested Scottsdale Fashion Square would be included, as would other shopping centers and individual boutiques in the Greater PHX area as well as in Tucson. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.

Global Ambassador

Kai at Wild Horse Pass

High-end hospitality

Elevated cuisine

Local treasures

Retail therapy

Lorem ipsum

Plan your trip

Lorem ipsum

Ambiente Sedona, a Landscape Hotel

Christopher's at Wrigley Mansion | credit: Emily Balli

Bario Bread

Heard Museum

Photo credit: An Pham

Lorem ipsum

Reffen Street Food Market Photo credits: Lukas Bukoven (left); Reffen - Copenhagen Street Food (right)

The BLOX Building (left); The Black Diamond (right) Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen

Let the posh side of

In the southern part of the state, an icon has reopened after a multimillion-dollar transformation: the Omni Tucson National Resort, where the overhauled spaces include guest rooms, which—depending on what you book—come with fireplaces, soaking tubs, walk-in closets and patios or balconies with golf course views. And for golf fans, that’s no small thing: The two championship courses have hosted more than 30 PGA Tour events between them. The Tucson area is also home to its own T+ L 2023 World’s Best winner: the five-star Ritz-Carlton, Dove Mountain, which also gets accolades in the world of golf resorts, thanks to the Jack Nicklaus design. For those who prefer boutique hotels, Tucson is home to two new offerings: the Leo Kent, vintage-chic lodgings in a repurposed downtown tower integral to the city’s skyline; and the Eddy, a study in clean, modern, desert-inspired décor on the scenic Campbell Avenue.

Tucson

Omni Tucson National Resort

For those who want some serious spa-ing with their stay, the legendary Mii amo has now reopened at the Enchantment Resort after a two-year, multimillion-dollar renovation and expansion. Again, placing the focus on nature, the new wellness spaces aim to connect guests to the surrounding wilderness, from the Relaxation Lounge and Garden to the hammock grove. It's no wonder this is another Travel + Leisure 2023 World's Best winner, alongside the nearby L'Auberge de Sedona and—further north—Under Canvas Grand Canyon. You might not think that a campsite would make the list, but this beloved glamping resort at the doorstep of the most iconic national park comes with upscale onsite dining, morning yoga (among other included activities), a team of experience coordinators, and of course, nightly s’mores around the fire pit. If you can’t get here before the end of this season (October 23, 2023), the 2024 season starts April 18.

Leo Kent

Castle Hot Springs (left); Mountain Shadows (right)

Global Ambassador

Mii amo (left); Under Canvas Grand Canyon (right)

Sedona is also a gateway to the famed Verde Valley Wine Trail, where the riverside Alcantara Vineyards’ tastings are as much about the likes of the bald eagles overhead as the 17 varietals that the winery produces. Meanwhile, Flagstaff has been winning rave reviews with its own ascendant food scene—worthy of more than a quick bite enroute to the Grand Canyon. Among the restaurants not to miss is Atria, where the farm-sourced modern American fare tends to include various coal-roasted favourites, from squash to a whole fish.

Northern Arizona

Sedona also has a tendency to pair its most sought-after meals with stunning landscapes. Take the Southern European-inspired Cress on Oak Creek at L’Auberge de Sedona, a winner of Food & Wine Magazine’s 2023 Global Tastemakers Awards, which noted that the restaurant “has long been a favorite for its beautiful woodland setting on the banks of the creek and its refined cuisine.” The resident bar makes the same list for “classic and creative cocktails with elevated casual cuisine, like mussels meunière.” Another Sedona standout is Mariposa Latin-Inspired Grill, where the red rocks feel like theatre in the round and the menu feels like a multi-stop journey to the bottom of South America (with particular emphasis on Argentina and Uruguay in the carnes a la parilla section).

Cress on Oak Creek

Come dinnertime, consider Bata, cited by Travel + Leisure in the 2023 list of the best food cities in the U.S. (unsurprisingly, Tucson makes the top 10). This restaurant is known for live-fire cooking and a veg-forward menu, the vast majority of which is sourced close to home. Mountain vista- and vino-lovers should head to the Grill at Hacienda del Sol, where the wine list has kept this restaurant on Wine Spectator magazine’s Best of Award of Excellence since the 90s. As for the food: picture New American cuisine made with ingredients from the onsite organic gardens as well as other local growers and purveyors.

Grill at Hacienda del Sol

For a different take on the Northern Arizona skies, consider booking a sunrise flight with Red Rock Balloon Adventures over Sedona’s surreal, sculptural landscapes. And while nature is clearly the star of the local show, cinephiles may want to spend at least a bit of time indoors here during the 30th anniversary of the famed Sedona International Film Festival, February 24-March 3, 2024 (housed in a theatre that will also present the 2023-2024 season of the Met Live Opera: Live in HD series).

Red Rock Balloon Adventures | credit: Robert Shuman

Northern Arizona

Arizona being the Grand Canyon State — and the canyon itself being truly epic — you’ll want the most sweeping possible views. And the South Rim obliges with a number of flightseeing tours, both by helicopter and plane. (The South Rim also happens to be the one open year-round, with hiking, mule rides and other adventures on offer.) Depending on the tour you book, you might soar over the Colorado River to the North Rim, the Kaibab National Forest, and endless, astonishing rock formations. While you’re in the area, spend some time in Flagstaff, where anyone interested in Route 66 lore should start at the Flagstaff Visitors’ Center, housed in a restored train station along the Mother Road herself. Other stops along that historic trail range from Mother Road Brewing, a beloved craft beer maker headquartered on Route 66, to the Museum Club (now a live music venue that specializes in Country).

Helicopter tour of the Grand Canyon

For its part, the Tucson Museum of Art looks especially lively in November. The monthly First Thursday/Primer Jueves celebration will be Dia de los Meurtos-themed, with gorgeous altar displays, paper flower-making workshops and more. Then, from November 17-19, 2023, the museum will host the Fall Artisans Market. For a totally different kind of museum—which is actually more like a series of open-air habitats set within a gorgeous swath of wilderness—check out the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum, where you should look for javelinas under bridges, bighorn sheep on rockfaces and prairie dogs peeking out from dirt mounds.

Arizona Sonora Desert Museum

Phoenix

Northern Arizona

Tucson

A luxury shopping paradise, the capital region is home to Scottsdale Fashion Square (Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, Versace and more); Biltmore Fashion Park (Saks Fifth Avenue); and the pre-owned designer treasures at Old Town Scottsdale’s Vintage by Misty and Fashion by Robert Black (by appointment only). There’s also a lot of chic, arty shopping to be done at the boutiques and galleries of Roosevelt Row.

Self-care seekers won’t want to pass up a visit to the brick-and-mortar HQ of cult favorite clean beauty brand Peak Scents. The Organic Rose Phyto collection is particularly sublime, as are the scrubs and salves. Fans of silver and turquoise jewellry, meanwhile, should check out the vintage treasures at Winter Sun (also home to beautiful, vintage Hopi baskets and more). Sedona, for its part, is full of galleries where you can score ceramics, paintings, jewelry, woodwork, photography—and sometimes all of the above, as at the Goldenstein Gallery at L’Auberge de Sedona.

Every fall and winter, literal treasure hunters descend on Tucson by the thousands for the world’s largest gem, mineral and fossil show—with the winter showcase (January 27-February 11, 2024) being the more famous. So if you’re in the market for, say, a several-hundred-thousand-dollar crystal or something a bit more modest, Tucson turns into shopping heaven in late January. But whenever you visit, you’ll uncover plenty of high-end finds, whether the locally inspired and sourced truffles at Monsoon Chocolate, the expertly curated fashions and homewares at Bon or the jewelry and leather goods at Mercado San Agustin’s Mast.

Kai at Wild Horse Pass

Castle Hot Springs

The Farm at South Mountain

Atria (left); Alcantara Vineyards (right)

'Fireflies' at Phoenix Art Museum

Musical Instrument Museum

Taliesin West

The Churchill | credit: An Pham

Mast, Mercado San Agustin Public Market

in collaboration with:

Hot air balloon in Sedona

Mercado San Agustin Public Market | photo credit: An Pham

Peak Scents | credit: Shelly Strazis

high-end hospitality | elevated cuisine | local treasures | retail therapy

If it’s a destination spa stay you seek, Tucson is also home to two of the most iconic on earth: the original Canyon Ranch and Miraval properties. Over the coming months, in addition to its famously encyclopedic array of wellness offerings, Canyon Ranch will host a series of focused activity sessions, whether Mastering Sleep, an Immersion Retreat (November 5-10); Pick a Peak Hike Week (November 6-12; or Gotta Dance at the Ranch with various guest choreographers (December 10-15), to name a few. Meanwhile, at Miraval, you’ll find all manner of inventive new spa treatment, from the Energy of the Wolves — a ritual that combines drumming, song and energy work — to the Cara Dorada facial, a fusion of reiki and skin care that imparts serious glow. And there’s ever more variety among the longtime signature offerings at Miraval, whether the desert challenge courses or the equine experiences.

Of course, for a full-on equine experience, you’ll want to consider staying at a dude ranch, and none is more iconic — nor more comfortable— than Tucson’s Tanque Verde Guest Ranch, where even the simple act of getting yourself to breakfast may come with options such as a loping ride, a walking ride or a Legend & Lore walk to breakfast. (For good measure, you can also hike or mountain bike to breakfast.) Throughout the day, there are all kinds of equine excursions and classes, as well as workshops on, say, copper tooling or axe throwing. At the more pacifist end of the spectrum, there’s meditation and yoga — and of course, plenty of cookouts under the stars, complete with live music and cocktails.

Tanque Verde Guest Ranch

Canyon Ranch (left); Miraval (right)