Arizona [Sensory Feast

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Arizona

Though it may be all the way across the pond, Arizona is closer than you think. With daily direct flight service between London and Phoenix, you can fly to this very drivable state in under 12 hours. And once you’re there, a sun-warmed sensory feast awaits — from sage-scented canyons to maize-sizzling comales. From mid-desert falls cascading into turquoise and emerald pools to the symphony of mourning doves, mariachis and margaritas clinking. For some of the best ways to savour all these and more, read on.

In 2015, UNESCO named Tucson, Arizona, the nation’s first City of Gastronomy — over some 20,000 other contenders. The deciding factors ranged from the local agricultural heritage (4,000 years’ worth of shocking abundance) to the globally renowned Mexican food scene. You could actually spend your entire trip eating Mexican food here and still barely scratch the surface, but a short list of must-tries includes: El Charro Café (consider the roof-dried carne seca or a bowl of caldo de queso); Seis Kitchen (don’t miss the horchata); El Güero Canelo (the James Beard Award-winning Sonoran hot dog is iconic); and any of the following taco purveyors: Tacos Apson, BOCA by Chef Maria Mazon, El Taco Rustico and La Indita (in this case, you specifically want the Indian Tacos: fry bread topped with beans, beef, and red chile, Tohono O’Odham style).

Not to be outdone, Phoenix is home to a renowned dining scene of its own — starting with what may be the best pizza in the U.S. (according to Bon Appétit, The New York Times and others): Pizzeria Bianco. Indeed, Greater Phoenix is home to a few of The New York Times’ 50 favorite restaurants of the moment: Bacanora (Sonoran Mexican specialties); Kabob Grill N’ Go (Armenian and Mediterranean) and Thaily’s (Cambodian-Arab). But as surprising as Arizona’s global fusion game may be to first-time visitors, there’s something even more improbable: a thriving farm-to-table scene, right here in the desert. Need an example? The Farm at South Mountain, where the rich soil of an ancient riverbed gives rise to some of the most beautiful local meals by way of the on-site Quiessence restaurant.

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Another officially recognized American Viticultural Area — and the state’s oldest wine region — is Sonoita-Elgin, home to about 20 wineries. To see why the wine media loves Callaghan Vineyards (whose creations have been served repeatedly at the White House), stop by for a tasting at the Elgin HQ. For something more unorthodox, visit Sonoita’s beloved AZ Hops & Vines, a winery owned by sisters who name their wines everything from Drag Queen to Sugar Daddy — and pair them with Cheetos. A third wine region to consider: Willcox, the American Viticultural Area where most of Arizona’s wine grapes are grown, and where you can pair amazing birdwatching with tastings at the likes of Bodego Pierce, Carlson Creek and Pillsbury. If you visit between November and February, the local farmlands are among the best places to check out the 20,000 or so sandhill cranes that winter here.

The sensory feast you need

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Then there are sky islands: isolated mountain ranges across the Southwestern U.S. and Northern Mexico, where steep grades have conspired with high altitudes over the millennia to produce a multitude of habitats from base to summit. Southern Arizona is home to a wealth of these sky islands, and exploring them is a singular experience that might take you, say, from the cactus-studded desert floor of Saguaro National Park to a stream-laced pine forest over the course of an hour’s drive (see: Tucson’s Mount Lemmon). Other sky islands worth exploring include the particularly bird-beloved Santa Rita, Chiricahua and Huachuca mountains, where you may spot warblers, trogons and as many as 15 species of hummingbird. While you’re in the area, don’t miss Chiricahua National Monument, where a 13-kilometre scenic drive and 27 kilometres of hiking trails wind through thousands of surreal, towering rhyolite hoodoos. Should you decide to spend the night there at the Bonita Canyon Campground, you're in for some serious bonus beauty: The national monument was recently designated the world's 104th International Dark Sky Park.

Another awe-inspiring experience that’s hard to secure — but worth the effort if you’re lucky — is a hike through Coyote Buttes and the Wave, all part of the 112,500-acre Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, with some of the most striking (and recognizable) sandstone formations on earth. The Wave itself is in Arizona, though you’ll be right on the border with Utah, where the trail is accessed. Permits are required and available only by lottery, but if you don’t manage to get one of the few slots available, consider a similar spot that doesn’t require extreme good fortune: Antelope Canyon, about two hours east of The Wave. Though you will need advance tickets to get into this ravishingly red and curvy slot canyon, there’s ample availability. You’ll also need to book a guided tour through this Navajo Nation land, but that only enhances the experience with an insider’s perspective on, knowledge of and appreciation for everything you’re seeing.

From there, you’ll find the 50,000-year-old Meteor Crater as you head toward Flagstaff. Once in town, explore a number of Route 66 spots, from the famed Flagstaff Visitor Center inside the historic Santa Fe passenger train depot to the Museum Club — an old roadhouse and taxidermy shop turned country line dancing hotspot. If you stay overnight in Flagstaff, consider the historic Weatherford Hotel, one block off the old Route 66, then take some time the next day to explore the Lava River Cave about 25 kilometres north of town.

But even without a Grand Canyon detour, this route packs lots of highlights. In order of appearance, from east to west, they include: the striated rock formations of Petrified Forest National Park; the 1930s-era Wigwam Motel in Holbrook; the 40s-era Jack Rabbit Trading Post (with its iconic “Here it is” sign) in Joseph City; and THE corner in Winslow, Arizona, where you’re almost contractually obligated to pose in front of the “standing on the corner” sign and sing the Eagles song that made this spot famous. Also in Winslow: the La Posada Hotel, an Old Hollywood haunt (think Betty Grable, John Wayne, Jane Russell, Jimmy Stewart, Lauren Hutton) and one of the best places to brush up on the history of the Harvey Girls — the single women of “good character” who signed on as restaurant workers for the railroad-adjacent hospitality magnate Fred Harvey in the 1880s. The Harvey Girls tour is well worth doing, but if you have time for nothing else here, at least grab a bite at the hotel’s famous Turquoise Room.

Another luxe local retreat to consider: L’Auberge de Sedona on the banks of Oak Creek, where the dreamiest quarters — the Creekside Premiere Cottages — are tucked away downstream and outfitted with fireplaces, private decks, four poster beds and outdoor cedar showers. Then there’s Ambiente Sedona, a pioneering new landscape hotel — a design approach that blends sustainability and low-impact architecture to let wilderness to be the star of the show.

Another historic Arizona retreat is the Arizona Biltmore, now a Waldorf Astoria Resort. The Phoenix stalwart is home to seven swimming pools, two golf courses and one award-winning spa, and is the very definition of urban retreat. Nearby Scottsdale is also awash in posh hospitality icons, from the Four Seasons Scottsdale at Troon North (which enjoys special privileges at the famed adjacent golf course); The Phoenician, a Luxury Collection Resort with a three-level pool complex, legendary spa and on-site 18-hole golf course; and Mountain Shadows Resort Scottsdale, a re-imagined midcentury gem where golf enthusiasts will want to investigate the fabled Hole 17.5, also known as the Forrest Wager.

Many wellness connoisseurs believe that the Arizona desert has healing energies. East Coast high society used to travel here for extended R&R getaways, thanks to the state's warm, dry air, which was seen as conducive to good health. Case in point: Castle Hot Springs, a palm-shrouded thermal oasis in the Bradshaw Mountains about an hour outside Phoenix, where the Vanderbilts, Rockefellers and Astors liked to take the waters. Today, the same mineral-rich natural pools that lured them — and, of course, indigenous communities well before them — remain at the heart of the beautifully refurbished and award-winning site. Even when you’re not soaking directly in the water, it plays into everything from your spa treatments to your meals: There’s an extensive on-site farm, and the connection between the water’s minerality and the flavour of the produce is amazing.

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Nearly a century old and one of the first national highways in the United States, this road achieved early fame in the likes of John Steinbeck’s Grapes of Wrath (the source of the “Mother Road” moniker) and Nat King Cole’s original recording of (Get Your Kicks on) Route 66. Though modern highways eventually eclipsed Route 66, it has only grown in the popular imagination — with nostalgia-chasers heading for the remaining original sections. But what would a journey along this historic route look like? Here's our suggestion. The longest section runs through Arizona for 400 kilometres, 257 of which constitute the longest uninterrupted original stretch. You can comfortably drive the whole thing in two days and fit in plenty of stops. Of course, if you decide to make the 80-kilometre side trip to the Grand Canyon, you’ll want to add an extra couple of days (at least) to allow some of the activities mentioned in the Outdoor Adventure section above.

Kai at Wild Horse Pass

The Farm at South Mountain

Meteor Crater

Lava River Cave

Williams

Terry Vesci of Pine Creek Lavender Farm (Pine, AZ) watch the full episode here

Iva Honyestewa of Iskasokpu Gallery (Second Mesa, AZ) watch the full episode here

Eric Watson of Watson's Hat Shop (Cave Creek, AZ) watch the full episode here

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Phoenix also serves up acclaimed takes on Native American food, from the award-winning Fry Bread House to the state's only AAA Five Diamond and Forbes 5-Star restaurant: the vista-blessed Kai at Wild Horse Pass. And for craft beer fans, the local indie brewery scene is hopping (if you'll pardon the pun). Standouts include Arizona Wilderness Brewing Co., who’ll use nearly anything that grows in the surrounding desert to make such brews as prickly pear-infused Cactus Juice and Sinagua malt-based Refuge IPA; the woman-owned Greenwood Brewing, who serve up the Herstory Pale Ale; and Wren House Brewing, whose multitude of award-winners include Spellbinder IPA and Valley Beer Lager.

Treasure hunters, take note: Arizona harbours a trove of locally produced goods that are — unlike your basic factory-made souvenir — imbued with a strong sense of place, and the spirit of the person who made them. Here are a few good starting points — one right along a route you'll likely be taking already, others a bit of a detour, and all extremely worthy.

Additional foodie pilgrimage sites in town include Barrio Breads, where owner Don Guerra has become a national celebrity; Monsoon Chocolates, where local sourcing leads to such delicacies as the Whiskey Del Bac Barrel Aged Dark Chocolate; and Mission Garden, where you can tour and taste your way through the crops that have made Tucson such an interesting place to eat for millennia. If you want to sample a variety of prepared foods instead, head to Mercado San Agustin, where — just for starters — you should visit Seis Kitchen for the regional Mexican specialties and exquisite, house-made horchata; Dolce Pastello for the artisanal coyota pastries; and La Estrella Bakery for the cochito cookies and conchas.

If wine is your drink of choice, check out the state’s best wine trails — another source of amazement for first-timers. One crowd-pleaser is the Verde Valley Wine Trail, a series of six towns and almost 30 wineries, vineyards and tasting rooms across some of the most gorgeous landscapes of Northern Arizona. Though the best-known stop on the trail is Sedona — beloved for its epic red rock formations — other unique spots include the historic mining town of Jerome, where the literal rock star Maynard James Keenan sells the fruits of his side hustle at Caduceus Cellars; and Camp Verde, where Alcantara Vineyards serves as both the start and end point for a Water-to-Wine adventure that pairs kayaking with a farmhouse wine tasting.

Another bucket list adventure awaits in one of the Grand Canyon’s side canyons: the milky turquoise pools and falls of Havasu Canyon. Home to a Havasupai Tribal community, the area was sealed off during the pandemic and only just re-opened in early 2023. The backlog of postponed reservations (which are required for entry) makes getting in extremely difficult these days. That said, trying your luck here could pay off in the form of a previously canceled lodge or campground reservation inside the canyon.

But getting back to Arizona’s inherent healing vibes — and more specifically, the vortices from which energy is said to swirl — you’ll want to consider staying in vortex central: Sedona. Even the biggest skeptics can’t help but feel something in this red rock enclave, whether the earth’s energy, the local spa therapists’ expertise, or some combination of the two. Among the best places to see for yourself is Mii Amo, a legendary destination spa that unveiled with new facilities after a recent two-year refresh. Committed to next-level wellness, the spa offers such services as Chakra Balancing, Intuitive Massage and Soul Consciousness sessions — as well as access to certain aspects of the venerable, adjacent Enchantment Resort (and vice versa).

Head west to vintage neon-happy Williams, considered the gateway to the Grand Canyon (and the point at which you would detour, if you’re going to). Otherwise, continue along the old Route 66 toward the ancient dwellings of Walnut Canyon National Monument, then Angel & Vilma’s Route 66 Gift Shop in Seligman—and Grand Canyon Caverns, of Cuban Missile Crisis fame. Last few stops? The power plant turned Route 66 Museum in Kingman, the 20s-era filling station at Cool Springs — and the surreal street burros of Oatman.

The Tucson area is home to several nature-immersive retreats — among them the Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain, where a day of hiking and indigo warm basalt stone massage might be followed by, say, a sommelier- and chef-guided wine and cheese tasting. Other good choices include Hacienda del Sol, a historic guest ranch resort with a celebrated new spa, and JW Marriott Starr Pass, where you’ll find 27 holes of golf, miles of adjacent hiking trails and one incredibly original sunset cocktail and storytelling ritual.

Mountain Shadows Resort Scottsdale

Hacidenda del Sol

Barrio Breads

Kai at Wild Horse Pass

Rune

Picture a chasm 446 kilometres long, 16 kilometres wide and 1600 metres deep, with some of the oldest exposed rock on earth and evidence of thousands of years of civilisation. The adventure possibilities here are as vast and varied as the canyon itself — rafting, trekking, railway, flyovers — but the classic bucket list adventure is a rim-to-rim hike. Over 39 kilometres, 1800 metres of elevation and at least two days, you’ll make your way down to — then up from — the Colorado River, where you’ll spend the night at either the Bright Angel Campground or the extra bucket-listy, century-old Phantom Ranch lodge. Just be sure to apply as early as possible for a backcountry permit.

food & wine | outdoor Adventures | route 66 | luxury stays | meet the makers